How to ceramic coat Matte Flat Graphics with PBL Ceramic Matte Coating

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

How to ceramic coat Matte Flat Graphics with PBL Ceramic Matte Coating



Pinnacle Black Label Ceramic Matte Coating

Are you a tick scared to work on matte graphics?

You're not alone.


Anyone that knows anything about matte surfaces, be they vinyl graphics, paint or plastic, knows that you normally don't get a second chance if something goes wrong. So it's only normal to be a tick hesitant to do anything. Instead, most people play it safe and do nothing, hoping the matte surfaces on their car will simply look good a long time and last a long time. Reality is - it doesn't work that way, at least not if the car in question is a daily driver. Left unprotected matte surfaces will go bad.


Here's the good news!

As long as you're careful, use clean microfiber tools like applicators, wash mitts and towels, plus be pro-active in maintaining a protective coating on the matte surfaces, it's completely safe to work on matte graphics, matte paint and matte plastic components.


Here's an example. While this is a Garage Queen, never really driven in inclement weather, the matte graphics and matte paint on the rear deck spoiler were not aging well and looking neglected. After washing the car when I was cleaning and protecting the vinyl top,

Afterwards I addressed the matte surfaces using products from Pinnacle Black Label.


Process

Step 1: After washing and drying the car, I gently wiped all the matte surfaces using the Pinnacle Black Label Surface Prep Spray. The PBL Surface Prep Spray gently removes any unwanted contaminants to leave a clean surface behind perfectly preparing the surface for the next step, applying the ceramic coating.


Step 2: Using a blue microfiber coating applicator I applied the PBL Matte Ceramic Coating using the normal overlapping crosshatch pattern.


Step 3: Within minutes of application I used a flat weave, edgeless microfiber towel to level the coating and remove any excess coating.


WORK CLEAN

The key thing about working on any matte surfaces is to ensure everything that TOUCHES the matte surfaces are clean, soft and uncontaminated. If you haven't seen my video or read my article on this topic, click this link.



Here's some pictures showing how easy and safe it was to install the PBL Matte Ceramic Coating and I did this in about 20 minutes or less.


I started with the vinyl graphics at the front of the car. This is the most looked at area of the entire car, the front of the hood. It's important to be careful so you don't LIFT the TIPS of the lettering.

When wiping, be sure to fold your microfiber towel 4-ways and keep the towel flat to the surface and use a gentle touch.

Go slow when wiping the lettering...

Next is the louvers for the hood scoop fresh air intake...

In order to do the entire area at one time, which means working on both sides of the car, I worked fast but was also very careful.

After application, I gently wipe using a clean, inspected microfiber towel to both level the coating and remove the excess for a UNIFORM appearance.

That looks right...

Next I move to the back of the car to work on the read-deck spoiler...

The application step will make the matte finish look splotchy with patterns from where you wiped. Have no fear...

Softly wiping the spoiler levels the coating and creates a beautiful uniform matte finish that is now protected.

It's so much better to do something versus do nothing. The key is using quality products specifically formulated for matte surfaces and just as important, make sure all your microfiber tools are clean, soft and un-contaminated.

On Autogeek.com


Pinnacle Black Label Ceramic Matte Coating - $100.00

Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Prep Spray 8 oz. - $20.00

Blue Microfiber Coating Applicator - $3.00

Cobra Storm Gray Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloth - 12 Pack - $20.00

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's a short video that shows the process....

 

[opie2]

Awesome right up mike! I may have a new challenger on to coat in the future and honestly never thought about the matte surfaces on the car. So this right up immediately sparked my interest.

Never knew they made coatings for matte surfaces. Is it honestly needed?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Prange]

Thanks, Mike. Outstanding review,(as always).

I’ll probably get some for my matte wheels.

The Mopar guys with the black hoods and roofs, will be VERY happy.

 

[Prange]

opie,

From what I’ve seen first hand, the matte - finish hoods on Mopars are easily damaged with conventional waxes. Once you get a shine on them, there’s no going back to matte. I’ve seen more than a few blotchy ones.

 

[opie2]

opie,

From what I’ve seen first hand, the matte - finish hoods on Mopars are easily damaged with conventional waxes. Once you get a shine on them, there’s no going back to matte. I’ve seen more than a few blotchy ones.

Really:wowwow: they should have a warning sticker somewhere for that :laughing:. Thanks for the tip!

 

[The Guz]

Nice write up Mike. Looks like a nice product for matte finishes. Does this coating harden up on the applicator or does it stay flexible?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Never knew they made coatings for matte surfaces. Is it honestly needed?

Generally speaking, nothing gets better with time except fine wine, quality spirits. So yeah, doing something is better than doing nothing.

In the first paragraph in the first post of this article I wrote this - note the portions I've turned the text RED. I don't know about other people but when I write, I choose EACH and EVERY word SPECIFICALLY and with PURPOSE. I have never written anything willy-nilly. I honed my writing skills during the NXT vs Zaino Wax Wars, of which I am a veteran.


Begin copy and paste
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Anyone that knows anything about matte surfaces, be they vinyl graphics, paint or plastic, knows that you normally don't get a second chance if something goes wrong. So it's only normal to be a tick hesitant to do anything.

Instead, most people play it safe and do nothing, hoping the matte surfaces on their car will simply look good a long time and last a long time. Reality is - it doesn't work that way, at least not if the car in question is a daily driver.

Left unprotected matte surfaces will go bad.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
End copy and paste


See what I wrote and how I phrased it? I stated that if the car is a DAILY DRIVER - left unprotected or UN-anything - it will go bad.

Then in you notice, the word bad is a >clickable< blue hyperlink. And it goes to a recent how-to article where I show pictures of a car that is a DAILY DRIVER and because the owner did nothing - the matte surfaces went bad. REAL BAD. Click the link and take a look for yourself.

So yeah, if the car you're talking about is a daily driver and exposed to the polluted world we live in, then doing something will be better than doing nothing - just be sure to use quality products formulated for the task at hand.

If the car is a Garage Queen, then you can get by with doing nothing or at least a lot less. For example, wipe the car down once in a while with a quality spray detailer. In a garage, there's no exposure to the SUN or WATER.

Thanks, Mike. Outstanding review,(as always).

Thank you. I actually did this the time I did these articles,

Review Wolfgang Convertible Top Cleaner and Vinyl Convertible Top Protectant

Hand Scrubbing versus Machine Scrubbing Tires - 1971 Charger R/T 440 Magnum

Speed Master Work Inspection Light




So including this article on ceramic matte coatings I was able to get 5 articles out of ONE car. Not bad. I've done better and I've done less.

I’ll probably get some for my matte wheels.

The Mopar guys with the black hoods and roofs, will be VERY happy.

Being a Chevy guy, (that's ordered a new Ford Bronco :wowwow: ), I know MOPAR guys need all the help they can get.

opie,

From what I’ve seen first hand, the matte - finish hoods on Mopars are easily damaged with conventional waxes.

Seen it first hand. A car girl in Orlando applied a cleaner/wax to the matte finished hood on her 1970 AAR Cuda and stained the HELL out of it. I offered to help her undo the damage and she snubbed me. I was working at a car show event at the time and had the products and tools I needed to fix it and she let me know there was nothing wrong with it.

Once you get a shine on them, there’s no going back to matte.

That's my experience too. This is why you don't rub or buff on matte surfaces UNLESS you understand and accept that you're going to alter the look. This is what I did here WITH the owner's BLESSING.

I shared this on a Charger forum and a handful of guys disapproved of the results and dissed me for it. I guess they only looked at the pictures and can't read. They missed the part about the owner preferring shiny matte versus SPENDING MONEY to replace crappy looking matte. Plus moving forward he knows how to machine buff his car and the matte surfaces to MAINTAIN the results I created. Pretty good trade-off if you don't want to pay for new graphics and then either remove and install the old graphics or PAY AGAIN to have someone else remove the old graphics and install the new graphics.

So many experts on the Internet. :dunno: I notice most of them can't read, they can only look at pictures. :laughing:

Nice write up Mike. Looks like a nice product for matte finishes.

Thank you sir. :xyxthumbs:

Does this coating harden up on the applicator or does it stay flexible?

Normally I pay attention to these types of details but at this time I do not remember how the foam applicator block felt the next day.


Just for you, and for my own knowledge, I have recreated using this product and should have the answer tomorrow.

I poured some product onto a micro-suede cloth this morning, just like most of us would do when installing any coating. Now it's drying. Here's pictures.


Here I've removed the lid to inspect for crystallization around the cap and threads.

Yup. There appears to be product crystallization or some form of solids residue.

Here I'm applying some to the micro-suede cloth

Sold amount - enough to know what's what by tomorrow morning.

The most important feature besides protection would be for the product to REMAIN TRANSPARENT initially and over time.

I'm not sure of the value if the product hardens or remains pliable. Instead I would trust the chemist to know how to do their job just like my boss trusts that I know how to do my job.

 

[The Guz]

Thanks Mike. The reason I asked is Gtechniq and CarPro have offerings for matte specific coatings and they promote that they be more flexible rather than hardening. The two coatings I speak of were originally intended for matte vinyl and PPF and then they were stated to be used on matte painted surfaces.

You are right in the end it does not matter. Just curious more than anything.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks Mike. The reason I asked is Gtechniq and CarPro have offerings for matte specific coatings and they promote that they be more flexible rather than hardening.

Makes sense. Both PPF and Vinyl graphics are flexible, stretchable, malleable, etc. Paint on the other hand after it dries is more brittle than flexible. Dried paint will offer some level of flexibility however in that it will expand and contract with the panels as it expands and contracts to heat and cold. Meaning anything applied to it must also be somewhat flexible.

You are right in the end it does not matter. Just curious more than anything.

It's good to be curious.


:cheers:

 

[opie2]

I don't know about other people but when I write, I choose EACH and EVERY word SPECIFICALLY and with PURPOSE. I have never written anything willy-nilly.

Thanks mike. I should have phrased my question better.when i asked if it is honestly needed.... I should have asked would a regular ceramic coating, (meaning for painted surfaces) would be appropriate for use on matte surfaces? Without needing to buy this product when i would only need it for a rear spoiler.

I understand that for every situation there is always going to be a better or more suitable product for that specific situation.

Thanks for the write up and response. Ive now recieved my typing lessons for the day




Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks mike. I should have phrased my question better. when i asked if it is honestly needed.... I should have asked would a regular ceramic coating, (meaning for painted surfaces) would be appropriate for use on matte surfaces?

Without needing to buy this product when i would only need it for a rear spoiler.

The answer is "probably not".

From my own experience using a LOT of different coating products since the first time I used a coating in 2011 - I would say "no" or "probably not".

The issue is, will the coating alter the matte appearance?

I would say 99.9% of the coatings probably won't in and of themselves make matte look clear and glossy - like polished car paint. BUT - the only way to find out is to test.

Gloss and clarity come from the properties of the material being worked on itself and of course abrading this surface to be clear and glossy. Your LSP of choice can accentuate the finish but not alter it dramatically as in turn flat matte into clear and glossy.

I'm not comfortable to say an adamant "no" but a very adamant probably not. How's that?

I understand that for every situation there is always going to be a better or more suitable product for that specific situation.

Yup - generally speaking.

Thanks for the write up and response. Ive now received my typing lessons for the day

Life experiences have taught me to type carefully.


:cheers:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Does this coating harden up on the applicator or does it stay flexible?

Just to follow-up, it's been 24 hours since I applied the PBL Ceramic Matte Coating to the microsuede cloth and it remained soft and pliable.

There's a sleight but noticeable change in the cloth...

But it's nothing like how a "paint" ceramic coating leaves these same types of microsuede patches of cloth stiff and feeling like cardboard.

 

[The Guz]

Thanks for the follow up Mike.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for the follow up Mike.

No problemo - I was curious too...


:cheers:

 

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

Hey Mike, I'm curious to see how you handled the painted areas between the graphics?

Also I was wondering how you would handle ceramic coating these areas?

Could you carefully apply a ceramic coating with some type of foam tipped applicator?

Would you lay some tape down over the graphics to protect them during the coating process?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hey Mike, I'm curious to see how you handled the painted areas between the graphics?

Applied right over paint - wiped everything off at same time.

Also I was wondering how you would handle ceramic coating these areas?

Would apply as normal and wipe off entire area.

Could you carefully apply a ceramic coating with some type of foam tipped applicator?

No. Don't over-complicate something that is very easy. Apply product to area to be treated - don't worry about getting either or the 2 different types of coating on one or the other materials, (paint/vinyl), follow instructions for removal and GENTLY wipe area.

Would you lay some tape down over the graphics to protect them during the coating process?

No. See answer above.


Great questions. Good to see you thinking through how to tackle this type of work. But don't overthink it. Don't turn something very simple into rocket science.


Moving forward, if anyone ever asks you for advice about putting graphics ON paint - recommend against it. Makes detailing these types of areas more difficult.


If anyone ever asks you for your suggestions or recommendations when getting a CUSTOM paint job. If they want graphics - tell them to spend the extra money and have the graphics PAINTED ON under the clear. Sames time and trouble. Worth it.

Yes - I have an article on this topic. Dates back to 2013


Have graphics painted under the clearcoat - The best of all worlds