How to choose my first DA buffer

danh52

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I have only used a rotary buffer is the past. I learned back in the day when it was the only choice. I am not a pro detailer but have to detail my 33' RV, moderate oxidation, and am thinking it might be time to try one of the "new fangle" DA buffers. Which would be the best machine to move to from a rotary buffer? I would also use this machine on my corvette, MINI Cooper and pickup so a wide range of vehicle sizes. I'd also like to keep the cost down but I'm ok with investing in a quality tool. If I get a new DA machine should I sell my Makita rotary or keep it and why?

Thanks
 
Griots 6" Random Orbital...known affectionately as the GG6. Plenty of power, good price point, lifetime warranty. Keep your rotary, you never know when you will need it
 
Since this is our first post to our forum...

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


I have only used a rotary buffer is the past. I learned back in the day when it was the only choice.
Me too. Still have my original Makita sitting on the shelf here in my office with my antique wax collection.


I am not a pro detailer but have to detail my 33' RV, moderate oxidation

BOOM! --> right there --> 33' RV with moderate oxidation.

You definitely want a dual action polisher so you don't leave holograms in the finish of your RV.


and am thinking it might be time to try one of the "new fangle" DA buffers.

Which would be the best machine to move to from a rotary buffer? I would also use this machine on my corvette, MINI Cooper and pickup so a wide range of vehicle sizes.

I'd also like to keep the cost down but I'm ok with investing in a quality tool.

The FLEX 3401 is the most powerful orbital polisher on the market since it's gear-driven but because it's gear-driven it also requires more muscle to control and use as compared to a free spinning orbital polisher. Just want to point that out.

If you're not in a hurry the a Griot's Garage 6" dual action polisher could and would tackle all of your projects. If you're in a hurry to get the RV buffed out then the FLEX 3401 would be my choice along with a foam polishing pad and a quality one-step cleaner/wax.


If I get a new DA machine should I sell my Makita rotary or keep it and why?

Thanks

If you don't ever plan on doing any major correction work then you could sell it because a quality dual action polisher can tackle everything you listed without the risk of holograms or burning through the paint.


:)
 
That big a piece to polish, with oxidation, Flex 3401.

That's one of the places where that machine excelled for me - oxidation.
 
Fast response time! Thanks to everyone.

So it looks like the Flex and Griots G21 are the 2 main ones. Correct me if I'm wrong but they are both fixed DA types? Can either be considered a "one machine does it all" choice for me? Does the G21 require me to only use Griots pads with it?

The lower section of the RV which includes the doors for the storage compartments is made of injection molded components with the color though the thickness of the material. No worry of buffing through the color there. The main areas of the coach are standard white fiberglass composite panels. The heavy oxidation is in the lower panels as the material it was molded with has always oxidized easily, the white fiberglass is only light oxidation and hazing. What pad and material would work with the lower areas? Or would I be better off using the rotary there and the DA for the other areas? I only want to buy one machine if possible. Can the flex and G21 also be used for waxing?
 
So, I see the Rupes LHR21 is on a great sale at $320. Based on that, is this one the best choice? Is the longer throw (21mm) ever a problem compared to the flex at 8mm?
 
I would keep the makita,you will never know when you are gonna need it.as far as a da 3401 will probably suit you best plenty of power and deosnt stall at all.
 
So, I see the Rupes LHR21 is on a great sale at $320. Based on that, is this one the best choice? Is the longer throw (21mm) ever a problem compared to the flex at 8mm?

That's a whole other can of worms.

I personally prefer the random orbital machines (Porter Cable, and Rupes at that). The Flex 3401 is a true dual action in that it's a gear driven machine. If you're used to a rotary, the free spindle random orbitals might not give you the "muscle" that you're used to with the rotary. It will not stall on curves and contours, it will not stall under pressure. I hear that the correction ability of the 21 is on part with that of the 3401, but I've never used a 21. I feel I get the results I like in good time with the random orbital tools I have (7424xp/Duetto).
 
Fast response time! Thanks to everyone.

So it looks like the Flex and Griots G21 are the 2 main ones. Correct me if I'm wrong but they are both fixed DA types? Can either be considered a "one machine does it all" choice for me? Does the G21 require me to only use Griots pads with it?

The lower section of the RV which includes the doors for the storage compartments is made of injection molded components with the color though the thickness of the material. No worry of buffing through the color there. The main areas of the coach are standard white fiberglass composite panels. The heavy oxidation is in the lower panels as the material it was molded with has always oxidized easily, the white fiberglass is only light oxidation and hazing. What pad and material would work with the lower areas? Or would I be better off using the rotary there and the DA for the other areas? I only want to buy one machine if possible. Can the flex and G21 also be used for waxing?
You can always mix up your process,rotary first on certain parts then 3401 after to remove halograms left by the makita.with the 3401 mckees fast compound with the right cutting pad can make panels very nice.mckees has a full line of rv products.
 
Keep in mind there is no stalling with the 3401 as compared with other brands out there.
 
So, I see the Rupes LHR21 is on a great sale at $320. Based on that, is this one the best choice? Is the longer throw (21mm) ever a problem compared to the flex at 8mm?

The LHR21 is a great machine. In fact it the the main tool I use to polish. The only disadvantage of this machine is that the longer throw of 21 mm (compared to 8mm for standard DA and 15 mm for mid-size throw DA) make It difficult to use on panels that are not flat. So for your RV, that should not be a problem. On other vehicles, if they have concave panels, this machine's rotation can stall. So it takes practice to polish those panels if you don't want to switch to a different polisher for them. Other than that, the machine runs very smoothly putting out almost no vibration. This means much less fatigue using it. Also the long throw makes the work much quicker than a shorter throw DA. It won't correct as fast as a Rotary or a Forced Rotation machine like the FLEX 3401VR, but it's still much faster at correcting than an 8mm or 15mm DA.

In terms of Pads, you have to use compatible pads. Lake Country has some and Rupes as well. I am not sure for other brands, you would have to check.

I would keep the rotary, you never know when you might need to do some heavy work. Rotaries are better at doing compounds. If you want to be safer, you could switch from wool pads to foam pads.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. I ended up ordering a Flex 3401, looking forward to getting it and trying it out.

In the mean time, I used the rotary to compound the lower section. Here's a picture of the before and after showing the level of oxidation I'm dealing with.

View attachment 50340
 
Here's the large size picture

50340d1468435194-how-choose-my-first-da-buffer-img_1194.jpg



Did you get a copy of my book with it?



:)
 
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