How to Clean Pads After Using Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
- Thread starter Tico
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Bruno Soares
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- Mar 30, 2017
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Impossible. I just don’t try anymore and I put the pad in a zip lock bag and use it again next time. I once spent more than an hour trying and only thing I got was a kitchen sink that was beading water like crazy.
AIO's are similar. Dawn actually does a decent job of getting out the bulk of the sealant. The last time I tried Citri-solv (similar to Citrol). That worked real well. I don't know if it was just good on this product (I think it was the new Black fire AIO). I'll have to try it a few more times to get a better idea. I also know I've read about guys using mineral spirits with good cleaning results.
My take on the whole pad cleaner argument is you could use the above-mentioned methods (or others) and just do a final rinse out with pad cleaner and be ok. No basis for this other than it makes sense to me.
My take on the whole pad cleaner argument is you could use the above-mentioned methods (or others) and just do a final rinse out with pad cleaner and be ok. No basis for this other than it makes sense to me.
PaulMys
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- Jan 14, 2014
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Never used WGDGPS (Yet, I have a bottle I ordered from AG), but I have noticed AIO's are more difficult to clean from pads.
mwoywod
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- Apr 3, 2016
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OPC undiluted can break down WGDGPS some BUT the majority of the sealant will be removed if you wrap a towel around the pad and squeeze the pad as hard as you can. Flip to a clean spot on the towel and continue doing this until the majority of WGDGPS is removed.
This method of transferring the sealant from the pad onto a towel will remove up to 90% of the sealant.
Put it on the rack to dry and either throw away the towel or wash it.
If you don't believe it's as easy as this, next time you apply a sealant just try wrapping a white paper towel around the pad and squeeze. You'll see just how much of the sealant transfers onto the paper towel.
This method of transferring the sealant from the pad onto a towel will remove up to 90% of the sealant.
Put it on the rack to dry and either throw away the towel or wash it.
If you don't believe it's as easy as this, next time you apply a sealant just try wrapping a white paper towel around the pad and squeeze. You'll see just how much of the sealant transfers onto the paper towel.
Another good idea by mwoywod.
Notice the pattern here. A two step process where you concentrate on getting most of the product out in the first step and then your knockout cleaner in step two. That's what I've found to work best.
If you buy into the pad cleaner claims, make that a quick third step.
It sounds like a lot. But when you get it down, it's not that bad. It sure beats trying to clean with only one of the various pad cleaners.
Oh, when I mentioned the Citra-Solv above, I used that as a second step after Dawn.
Notice the pattern here. A two step process where you concentrate on getting most of the product out in the first step and then your knockout cleaner in step two. That's what I've found to work best.
If you buy into the pad cleaner claims, make that a quick third step.
It sounds like a lot. But when you get it down, it's not that bad. It sure beats trying to clean with only one of the various pad cleaners.
Oh, when I mentioned the Citra-Solv above, I used that as a second step after Dawn.
wing commander
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- Feb 11, 2015
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Well I will share that I have a black 4" buff and shine flat pad that just goes back in the bag each time. If I use the sealant correctly the pad hardly has any on it when I finish.
I use the polishing pal Pinnacle Polishin? Pal for the accuracy around edges and areas the pad on the machine can't reach. It also goes back in the bag when done.
Instead of wringing out the sealant I push the pads against the paint and do not add more towards the end of the application. A 16oz bottle has done more than 12 jobs and still has about 2oz left.
I use the polishing pal Pinnacle Polishin? Pal for the accuracy around edges and areas the pad on the machine can't reach. It also goes back in the bag when done.
Instead of wringing out the sealant I push the pads against the paint and do not add more towards the end of the application. A 16oz bottle has done more than 12 jobs and still has about 2oz left.
UncleDavy
Active member
- Aug 22, 2017
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I have used the Wolfgang DGPS and I love the product. It does stay in the pad after many hot water rinses but I have had success with McKee's 37 polishing pad cleaner. It is a great solvent that removes the product and leaves a clean pad. Make sure that you wear a mask when you use it. The spray can be pretty strong.
Is it true that something like 3D towel kleen or the mckees pad cleaner I use that is quite strong can not break down wgdgps? I thought these products were supposed to do that?
Bruno Soares
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- Mar 30, 2017
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Just a few minutes ago I tried that McKee’s polishing pad cleaner and I agree. It’s not a bad smell, just very strong. It removed Menzerna 3-in-1 from an orange pad very easily. Maybe I’ll try that product next time with WDGPS.
I have a couple pads I just put in a plastic bag and only use with whatever wax. I don't even clean them I just put them in an air tight bag. Theoretically you should be able to take it out months later and just start using it. It should be the same as the wax in the bottle.
I say theoretically because although I do have the saturated pads in a bag I've yet to go back and actually use them a second time. I'm hoping they will work though.
mwoywod
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- Apr 3, 2016
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No, these products CAN break down a sealant to some extent. But because sealants aren't water soluble so the sealant can't be effectively rinsed out of pads. During the rinsing process some of the sealant WILL be removed with the pad cleaner BUT it would take numerous applications to remove even close to as much of the sealant as the towel method.
ski2
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- Dec 2, 2011
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Smells just like LA Awesome from the $ store.
Same goes for Towel Kleen. When used as a detergent in the washing machine, it's fine and you can't smell or feel anything.
But once you dilute it, and start spraying it from a bottle, it becomes atomized in the air around you and is quite harsh. If you're using Towel Kleen this way, make sure it's in a well-ventilated area ie. not your small laundry room with the door closed. Ask me how I know...
jankerson
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- Oct 13, 2013
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What I do is use pad cleaner and soak it down really good.
Or in a bucket with pad cleaner and let it soak awhile.
Then either wring it out in the bucket with the pad cleaner a lot pushing out the product, get most of it.
Then take it and put it in the sink and use DAWN and warm water and repeat.
Then I take off like 3 paper towels, leave them connected and roll the pad up into them with the foam side down. rolling it very tight and then ring it out really well while rolled up in the towels.
Then I just let it dry.
My process gets out like 90% of it so it's all good.
Or in a bucket with pad cleaner and let it soak awhile.
Then either wring it out in the bucket with the pad cleaner a lot pushing out the product, get most of it.
Then take it and put it in the sink and use DAWN and warm water and repeat.
Then I take off like 3 paper towels, leave them connected and roll the pad up into them with the foam side down. rolling it very tight and then ring it out really well while rolled up in the towels.
Then I just let it dry.
My process gets out like 90% of it so it's all good.
mc2hill
Member
- Feb 19, 2009
- 559
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Since someone else revived this thread I will share my process for cleaning sealant out of pads.
I put the pad in a small container (I have some round plastic food containers that are a perfect fit for 5.5" pads) and soak them in Tide Free & Gentle laundry detergent. I squish the pad to get it to absorb the detergent, refill to the top of the pad, and leave it for a day or so. Then I just rinse the pad and the sealant is gone. I have tried using the left over liquid for a 2nd pad, but it has lost its 'juice' after the first one.
I got this method from a client who uses the Tide Free product to degrease parts for his brass cars. He had a few different size aluminum tubs built, and uses them to soak parts for a week or more. The parts come out looking perfect, with the grease removed from every nook and cranny. The best part is there is no sign of the grease in the leftover liquid.
It works great as a hand cleaner too!
I put the pad in a small container (I have some round plastic food containers that are a perfect fit for 5.5" pads) and soak them in Tide Free & Gentle laundry detergent. I squish the pad to get it to absorb the detergent, refill to the top of the pad, and leave it for a day or so. Then I just rinse the pad and the sealant is gone. I have tried using the left over liquid for a 2nd pad, but it has lost its 'juice' after the first one.
I got this method from a client who uses the Tide Free product to degrease parts for his brass cars. He had a few different size aluminum tubs built, and uses them to soak parts for a week or more. The parts come out looking perfect, with the grease removed from every nook and cranny. The best part is there is no sign of the grease in the leftover liquid.
It works great as a hand cleaner too!