I recently used Meguiars Ultimate compound to remove some scuff marks on the surface of the paint on my 2011 Hyundai Sonata. I followed the instructions exactly as stated on the bottle, and even watched the instructional YouTube video, but there is still a noticeable haze when looking at the areas under direct light. I did not see any mention of using additional materials following the use of the Ultimate Compound so am looking for recommendations of what to use to remove the hazy spots? I am somewhat new to the detailing world so I am not completely familiar with all of the products and their best uses. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
How to clean up haze left by Meguiars Ultimate Compound
- Thread starter jlabs12
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Wheelzntoys
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- Dec 18, 2011
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It's partner....Ultimate Polish or Meg's 205.
Mike@DedicatedPerfection
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- Feb 26, 2011
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What pad line are you using?
DaveT435
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- Jun 23, 2012
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Hand or machine application??
Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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I'm going to guess this member was working by hand.
jlabs12, did you wash the car thoroughly before the polishing? What did you use to apply and remove the Ultimate Compound? What color is the car?
If we can rule out that the "hazing" was not caused by polishing a dirty surface, or by the applicator or removal toweling, we can then move on to the conclusion that you need to followup with Ultimate Polish to refine these areas so they don't stand out from the rest of the car.
- Thread starter
- #6
The car was washed a few days before the compound was applied (by hand with a terry cloth as recommended on the bottle), but I did spot wash the two areas immediately prior to applying the compound. The car itself is a dark blue color. Sounds like this one is user error based on the previous questions...
Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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Not at all--but proper applicators and removal towels are important on dark colors. Followup with the Ultimate Polish if you think the hazing wasn't a result of surface dirt or your applicator/towel.
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- #8
Just for curiosity sake, what would you recommend if the hazing was due to surface dirt? Also, what type of applicator/removal towels would you recommend for such a dark blue? Like I mentioned before, I am a little new to all of the products and processes when it comes to DIY detailing, so I am soaking up all the info that I can.
umi000
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- Jan 14, 2011
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If it was due to surface dirt causing more damage, you could do another application of UC, but make sure that the surface is clean, dirt- and dust- free. I'd also use a foam applicator instead of a terry cloth, as it will be less aggressive.
It might also be possible that a lighter application of UC with a foam applicator will work to remove the haze - the cutting action of the compound varies on how much pressure and how long you work it.
Having said all that, it is possible, as Setec mentioned, that the product really does leave a haze on your paint - I have the same issue with UC on my soft Toyota paint. In that case, I followed it up with Swirl-X (I'd have used Ultimate Polish if it was already in the market at that time).
Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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Umi hit some of this already, but if you have hazing/marring on the paint, it can come from a number of sources (presuming that the surface was cleaned first):
1. Bonded contaminants on the paint surface which were broken loose by polishing and ground into the paint--these would normally be removed by a decon product like Iron-X or by clay or clay substitute.
2. The abrasives in the compound
3. The applicator used being dirty or being an abrasive material
4. The removal towel being dirty or being an abrasive material
Some toweling material used for removal may have components which can cause marring on soft paint.
I had the same problem you had. I used Mequirars compound, and got a haze, didn't rub out with next stage polish, or with more compound. I used a porter cable DA polisher speed six. I have heard a haze can form if you don't work compound from a pasty beginning stage till it starts to turn clear-ish. I knew that going in but it didn't turn clear it dried very quickly.
So I tired a different product I used chemical guys polishes(They are on the net). Tried to remove the haze got some not all out. But this stuff does turn clear, and I got no haze from using it. Luckily I only did one panel with the Mequirars. The rest of the car turned out great. So beginners like myself I would be weary of the Mequiars, but on a positive note there is stuff out there like chemical guys polish that a beginner has a chance with. They also have great videos on you tube on how to polish your car.
So I tired a different product I used chemical guys polishes(They are on the net). Tried to remove the haze got some not all out. But this stuff does turn clear, and I got no haze from using it. Luckily I only did one panel with the Mequirars. The rest of the car turned out great. So beginners like myself I would be weary of the Mequiars, but on a positive note there is stuff out there like chemical guys polish that a beginner has a chance with. They also have great videos on you tube on how to polish your car.
Desertnate
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- Aug 5, 2013
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I don't know how soft Hyundai paint is, but I'd think in most cases, when using a compound you'll need to follow up with a polish to remove the haze created by the compound.
I used the UC/UP team the first time I used a DA on a car. The Subaru I was correcting had really soft blue pearl paint. After hitting the entire car with UC on a light cutting pad, I was pretty happy. Since I had time, I then hit the car with UP on a polishing pad. Even in my poorly lit garage, the difference was noticable in both feel and appearance. I now realize it was the haze I was knocking out with the polish. The final results were stunning.
Something else to consider is often you can do all the correcting you need without dropping to a compound. UP does amazing things for me on a polishing pad when dealing with Toyota paint.
I used the UC/UP team the first time I used a DA on a car. The Subaru I was correcting had really soft blue pearl paint. After hitting the entire car with UC on a light cutting pad, I was pretty happy. Since I had time, I then hit the car with UP on a polishing pad. Even in my poorly lit garage, the difference was noticable in both feel and appearance. I now realize it was the haze I was knocking out with the polish. The final results were stunning.
Something else to consider is often you can do all the correcting you need without dropping to a compound. UP does amazing things for me on a polishing pad when dealing with Toyota paint.
cleanmycorolla
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OP did you clay before attemtping polishing?
lawrenceSA
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I am in the process of detailing a new Kia Rio. Being the first time I worked one, my test spot was of course SF4000 on a black pad.... this really tidied the paint up a lot, and I therefore new it was on the soft side.
I eventually landed up settling on Ultimate Polish (was looking for a SMAT alternative to my usual DAT Menz stuff to speed things up a little as I am knocking this one out during the evenings after work) on a LC tangerine pad.....and so far, it is looking really good.
Always remember, least aggressive first.... :dblthumb2:
- Thread starter
- #15
Unfortunately I did not, but thanks to the family of AG'ers I know better now. At the time of the original post, I had not found AG yet so my ignorance to proper process, plus my desire to immediately remove the scuff marks, resulted in a less than optimal outcome (the scuffs/paint transfer did come off, but left behind the haze as mentioned in the title). I know now that working clean is the key (i.e. wash, clay, decon), and using something like Meg's UP instead of UC most likely would have provided better results.
I have learned a lot thus far from the AG community and hope to continue learning as I get more into detailing. Seeing as I got a GG DA for Christmas, I am sure I will have plenty of questions in the near future :buffing:\
Thanks to all for the informative and helpful responses!