Time saving tips (that apply to your detail process)
1. Wash the entire car, then clay. Switching back and forth between wash media and clay seems like it would be significantly slower.
2. Use a rinseless wash instead of normal car wash soap.
2.1 (almost forgot...) wheel acid. Get some, learn its dangers and safety precautions. Use it religiously.
3. Use a Nanoskin clay pad on a DA polisher (while the car is still wet). You can do the while car in less than 10 mins.
4. On the interior blow everything forward. You might not even need to vacuum the rear seating area if the carpets are already clean.
5. Tornador.
6. Steamer.
7. DA carpet brush.
8. Nathan Flannel upholstery cleaning method. (Google it)
9. Clean each area of the interior completely before moving to the next. Less movement around the car = time saved.
10. On the exterior you might not need to do a traditional "cut and buff" to get each vehicle to showroom standards. Consider these possibilities:
10.1 1-step polishing using a medium cutting diminishing polish such as OPT Hyper Polish.
10.2 compound then finish with an AIO type product such as Meguiar's D151.
10.3 MF cutting and finishing pads are your friend. The Meg's DA system is perfect for production environments when you are actually still aiming for high quality results.
11. Get a Rupes 21. Install the washer mod.
I'm sure others can chime in with more tips as well. Best of luck!
Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
/thread
Lol.
But seriously, all of this. I don't do as much polishing, as most clients don't really want it. When I do, it's an AIO like D151. When it comes to more proper correction, I like M100 on microfiber cutting pads, followed by M205. The microfiber pads are the best, a huge time saver, and I only wish I bought more of them right off the bat instead of the CCS pads I got.
I initially planned on doing most cars with the "autogeek style" foam gun followed by two bucket method, but rarely do we have the time to do this. No rinse wash is I'd say about 65-75% of our washing.
I had a Tornador for a while but hadn't used it until recently when I got a suitable compressor for our van. The Tornador is a lifesaver when it comes to fleet vehicles or dusty trucks, and stuff like engine bays or tight spots. Compressed air in general is tool #1 for detailing interiors and engine bays, IMO. Cuts time down significantly.
I have a steamer and a Mytee HP60. I find myself rarely using the HP60, thought it's good to know it's there when I need it. Steam is tool #2 for interior detailing, and is essential. If I didn't have my steamer, I'd be toast.
The DA brushes (drillbrush has ones that I like the best) save tons of time, but be careful on what you use them on, you can tear stuff up so go lightly and choose a bristle that isn't too stiff for the material your're cleaning.
The number one problem we faced at first was organization and having a good system for storing and putting away stuff when it was time to pack up. That may sound like a no brainer, but just because something is organized doesn't mean it is saving you time. I found that having things set up in "kits" helps. I use rubbermaid totes and have my interior brushes and tools along with interior cleaners in one "kit". When I'm done using it, it goes back in the tote, and then I move on to the exterior or whatever is next and pull out the appropriate "kit". This saves TONS of time, and makes cleaning up way less of a chore, and keeps stuff from going up missing.
I think it was Jason Rose who was on Larry Kosilla's podcast one time who said that every detailer should have a good "three tool" system. I initially chose to use a 7424xp for interior brushes, applying wax, and smaller jobs, the Rupes 21 for most paint correction jobs, and a Dewalt Rotary for headlights and "dealership style production" jobs where it's going to get an AIO and get kicked out the door. This has worked great so far for me.