How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips

While reading the IRON X instructions, it says DO NOT USE ON SMART repairs. What is a SMART repair? Is this paintless dent repair? if so then 2 out of 3 of my cars are out of it! LOLOL

Can anyone shed a little light?
 
KenVette57 said:
What is Iron X ? I've never heard of it...
Click to expand...

And that's the power of a discussion forum. You hang out here and read and you learn about products you've never heard about before...

Get all the info here,

Iron X Iron Remover

The nutshell story is it's a chemical that will dissolve iron particles so you can rinse them off a surface instead of using some type of mechanical means to remove them.

Check out this video here,


Iron X Bleeding Effect While Cleaning Brake Dust Off Wheel



Dave parks his truck outside 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and he's not really into the appearance" aspect of car maintenance. He's a heck of a great welder just not much of a detailer...



Iron X Bleeding Effect While Cleaning Brake Dust Off Wheel​




To me this is one of the most important procedures you can do to anything painted as it dissolves the iron particles out of the paint which prevents them from causing the paint to deteriorate.

As it relates to painted body panels on a car...
I've seen first hand the scratching inflicted into car paint when iron particles were in fact removed by claying. The clay removed the iron particles but because you're rubbing the clay over the paint during the process you can't help but to rub the iron particles over the paint and this is where the scratching comes from.

Then of course you have to machine compound the paint to remove the scratches. This removes paint and paint is already thin to start with. So it makes sense to dissolve the iron particles FIRST and then clay the paint.

Iron X isn't a replacement for tools like clay or the Speed Prep Towel for removing above surface bonded contaminants but instead is the a step you want to perform before claying.


Car Insurance
This is key, IronX is like Car Insurance. Car Insurance is a necessary evil. It's something you want to have but you never want to use it.

IronX products are the same way, you don't want to have iron contamination on your wheels or your painted body panels, but if you do have this type of contamination you want to remove it.

So if you spray IronX onto your wheels or body panels and don't see the bleeding-effect, don't feel let down, that's actually a good sign.

The IronX bleeding effect is like water beading,

It looks cool...


And it's intriguing to watch. But if you think about the ramifications of what seeing the bleeding effect means, it's not a good thing and thus you really don't want to see it.


Make sense?



:)
 
beamerstrumpet said:
While reading the IRON X instructions, it says DO NOT USE ON SMART repairs. What is a SMART repair? Is this paintless dent repair? if so then 2 out of 3 of my cars are out of it! LOLOL

Can anyone shed a little light?
Click to expand...


I have no idea. I did a Google search and found nothing that seemed to be related?

Could be a European term for some type of body shop repair or home repair of a body panel?

:dunno:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips


Below is the order of steps to do to your brand new car, truck or sports utility vehicle. Note that even a brand new car may need some of the below procedures because car paint becomes contaminated while it's being shipped and while it's being stored.

Also, dealerships are notorious for putting their new cars through their own detail shop to get them ready to sell only to have their in-house detailers instill swirls and scratches at the same time they're supposed to be making the car look beautiful.

It's sad to say, but that's how the new and used car dealerships here in the United States work.

So after getting your brand new car, or your new-to-you used car home, here's what you do.

  1. Wash and dry.
  2. Inspect the paint with your sense of touch and visually in bright, overhead sunlight.
  3. Iron X paint and wheels - Then re-wash to remove the Iron X residues off the paint and wheels.
  4. Clay - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
  5. Polish - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
  6. Apply either a Car Wax or a Paint Sealant
Note: You really only need to use one type of protection product. Some people use two types but you don't have to. Instead you could apply two coats of the same product. Protection products include,




  • Car Waxes
  • Synthetic Paint Sealants
  • Paint Coatings



How to inspect your car's paint after you have washed and dried it.
Watch the below short videos. In them, I show you how to inspect your car's paint. It is by inspecting your car's paint that you determine what needs to be done.


This is one of my better write-ups with over 100 high resolution pictures showing before, process and after shots. Here's the link to the entire thread.

1954 Ford F-100 - Extreme Makeover - Process and products used



Here's what you want to do to any car that you're going to detail
First, wash and dry the car so you remove any loose dirt. This keeps you from rubbing the dirt into the paint when you feel it with your hand or a baggie for above surface bonded contaminants.

It also removes the dirt to get it out of the way so your eyes can SEE if there are any swirls in the paint.

So wash and dry first, then inspect with your sense of touch and visually with your eyes.



How to feel the paint with your hand to check and see if you need to clay the paint
1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Detailing Clay - YouTube​



How to inspect the paint using the sun to check for swirls, holograms and scratches
1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Remove Holograms Swirls...​



Your results and what to do?


Paints is in good shape
If the paint feels smooth as glass and if you don't see any swirls or scratches, or if swirls and scratches don't bother you then you can keep it simple and,
A: Apply a wax or paint sealant - Skip all other steps after washing and drying and inspecting.

B: Use a pre-wax cleaner and then apply a wax or paint sealant. A pre-wax cleaner, also called a paint cleaner simply ensures the paint surface is squeaky clean and clear and perfectly prepared to accept a wax or paint sealant. If you opt to use a paint coating you'll want to follow the manufactures directions for prepping the paint before applying the coating as directions vary.
​

Paints is in bad shape
If you discover the paint has above surface bonded contaminants then you need to clay the paint. You have two options,

Option 1: Wash and dry the car and then clay paint.
This is the normal way most people started their detailing project till products like Iron-X were introduced. That is after washing, drying and inspecting, if they felt contaminants on the paint they would move onto the claying step.


Option 2: Wash and dry the car and then use Iron-X to remove any iron particles and then re-wash the car to remove the Iron X residue and dissolved iron particles. Dry the car and then clay the paint.


The benefit this approach offers is,

IF there are any iron particles in your car's paint you will dissolve and remove them chemically with the Iron-X instead of abrading and pulling them out with clay and then potentially instilling swirls and scratches into the paint because now you have iron particles embedded into the clay that you're rubbing all over the paint.


Iron X = Insurance Policy
In my opinion, doing an Iron-X treatment to paint that you've never worked on before is a good idea, it's like an insurance policy. You buy insurance to protect ourself but you hope you never need it.

You use Iron-X JUST IN CASE there's any iron particles in the paint but you actually hope that there's not.

It's better to use Iron-X and NOT see the spray turn red than it is to see the spray turn read. Think about it, if it turns red that means there was iron particles in the paint, that's a bad thing. If it doesn't, it's whew... I got lucky.

Then after choosing and following the steps in one of the above options you move on to the next step, which is usually doing some type of correction work to the paint using a combination of compounds and polishes, or keep it simple and use what are called pre-wax cleaners or paint cleaners.

Both of these steps,

Correcting with compounds and/or polishes

OR (You don't do both, pick one or the other)

Using a Pre-Wax cleaner
​
Are done after the washing, claying steps and before the sealing step where you will apply your choice of a,



  • Car Wax
  • Synthetic Paint Sealant
  • Paint Coating

Each of the three categories above are different types of products that do the same general thing and that is leave a layer of protection on the paint to protect it and make the paint look good.

You only need to use one product from one of the three categories. You don't have to use products from more than one category although a lot of "Serious Car Enthusiasts" will as an option apply a synthetic paint sealant first for long lasting, durable protection and top this sealant with a coat of wax for aesthetics reasons, that is to make the paint look beautiful.

See this article,
Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping



Maintaining your car
After all of the above is done, you can then maintain your car's finish using a combination of spray detailers and spray waxes or spray sealants.

A spray detailer is for removing,

  • Light dust
  • Fingerprints
  • Smudges
  • Clay Lube (when claying)
A spray wax or a spray sealant is typically a faster, shortcut way of restoring that just waxed look without having to actually get out a traditional liquid or paste type product. Instead you mist on the spray wax or spray sealant, spread it around and wipe it off in the same way you would use a spray detailers.

People get confused as to what the difference is between a spray detailer and a spray wax so here's the difference,

A spray detailer is for cleaning your car, getting dust of it without scratching the paint. A spray on wax or spray-on sealant is for adding more protection to paint that is ALREADY CLEAN, for example after you wash the car or AFTER YOU USE A SPRAY DETAILER.

Simple really, but for some reason a lot of people get confused over spray detailers and spray waxes.


I certainly don't want to scare anyone or make washing and waxing your car any more complicated than it has to be, I'm just trying to lay out ALL the various factors to consider if the car in question is important to you as well as your time and money/investment.

Here's how the 1954 Ford came out after doing all the necessary steps and then applying a coating of Pinnacle Signature Series II



54Ford58.jpg

54Ford50.jpg



:)
Click to expand...
Great article.Isn't there a difference between a new car,which by the time you get it, it probably has been months since it's been painted and a freshly painted car straight from the paint booth????Are you saying that's it's OK to seal fresh paint as on the yellow truck(if that IS fresh paint)
 
bugsy said:
Great article.Isn't there a difference between a new car,which by the time you get it, it probably has been months since it's been painted and a freshly painted car straight from the paint booth????Are you saying that's it's OK to seal fresh paint as on the yellow truck(if that IS fresh paint)
Click to expand...


Yes there's a difference. The paint on the yellow truck was almost a year old when we buffed and sealed it.

The questions you tagged onto this thread about working on your freshly painted El Camino is here,


How soon to seal freshly painted El Camino





:)
 
Only thing missing is claying, polishing if needed and coating the glass.
 
AeroCleanse said:
Only thing missing is claying, polishing if needed and coating the glass.
Click to expand...


:dunno: I guess I'm not sure the context of your above statement.

In the FIRST post of my article I wrote this...



So after getting your brand new car, or your new-to-you used car home, here's what you do.

  1. Wash and dry.
  2. Inspect the paint with your sense of touch and visually in bright, overhead sunlight.
  3. Iron X paint and wheels - Then re-wash to remove the Iron X residues off the paint and wheels.
  4. Clay - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
  5. Polish - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
  6. Apply either a Car Wax or a Paint Sealant


:xyxthumbs:
 
Hey mike,
I just got my new car getting delivered sometime this month. Do you suggest if everything is well with the paint to just go with the Detailer’s Paint, Wheel & Glass Coating Complete Kit if everything looks good? or should I do the original steps and go with the kit after a wax or sealant?
 
Sorry I just now found this post....


Cman8 said:
Hey mike,
I just got my new car getting delivered sometime this month.

Do you suggest if everything is well with the paint to just go with the Detailer’s Paint, Wheel & Glass Coating Complete Kit if everything looks good?
Click to expand...


Yes.

If it passes the baggie test and you don't see any swirls keep it simple and use the kit.

Here's at least two cars that I did not clay or polish but went right to the cleansing polish before coating them. (after wiping them clean of course).



Cleaned & Coated in 3 Hours - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Jeep_Grand_Cherokee_023.jpg



How to detail a 2014 Corvette Stingray

2014_Stingray_019.jpg




Cman8 said:
or should I do the original steps and go with the kit after a wax or sealant?
Click to expand...


If you don't need to mechanically decontaminate then don't. If there are no visible swirls you don't have to but my experience is a fine cut polish applied by machine to even a new finish will 100% for sure maximize gloss and clarity.

The chemically strip and coat.

The wax and sealants would only be applied after the coating, not before.


:)
 
For everyone reading this, even if you have a brand new car it could still have iron contaminants....

The only way to know is by using an iron remover. Keep in mind that ideally you want to use an iron remover BUT you don't actually want to discover iron particles.

It's kind of like car insurance. You want to have it but you never want to use it.


Tip for Iron X users - Rinse well to avoid molding drip

Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_04c.jpg



Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_07.jpg


Dripping_IronX_on_Lotus_08.jpg
 
Mike, when you say maybe use a fine cut polish. What would be some examples of that? Wolfgang finishing glaze? what else? Black label cleansing polish? I have a new white 2014 Fiat 500L.


Thanks,
Larry
 
Larry S said:
Mike, when you say maybe use a fine cut polish. What would be some examples of that?

Wolfgang finishing glaze? what else?
Click to expand...

Here's a few fine cut polishes off the top of my head...


Menzerna 3000, 4000

Meguiar's M205

Optimum Finish

Sonax Nano Polish

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish

Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish

Mother's Finishing Polish

Rupes Keramik Fine Cut Polish (I like how they put the cut level right on the front label, it's as though they read my how-to book when they labeled their products)



Larry S said:
Black label cleansing polish?
Click to expand...

That product has the word "polish" in the name but it's non-abrasive. It's purpose is to remove the polishing oils off the paint from products like listed above as well as other things.


Larry S said:
I have a new white 2014 Fiat 500L.
Click to expand...


Cool. We'll throw it in the back of my truck and call it a spare...


Just kidding.... cool car. We buffed a white Fiat 500 out down here last summer.


Video and Pictures: 2012 Fiat 500 - Chemical Guys Show Car Makeover

500FiatWhite055.jpg


:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks for the response Mike. I have the new 4 Door model, not so small as the 500.
Larry
 
I have question on the Iron-X, is it safe to let run over the badges and fender flares etc? I have read you are not supposed to let it dry, and to rinse all the trim well to avoid residual streaking. Just wondering if it is necessary to mask off the trim somehow? Thoughts?
 
Also, another question. What is the proper method to detail the brand new engine? I've looked at the how to threads on detailing engines, and they are really great! However what is a good plan of attack (and what to use) for the brand new engine?
 
RAMRebel said:
I have question on the Iron-X, is it safe to let run over the badges and fender flares etc? I have read you are not supposed to let it dry, and to rinse all the trim well to avoid residual streaking. Just wondering if it is necessary to mask off the trim somehow? Thoughts?
Click to expand...


I have pretty much sprayed Iron X on just about everything and then before it can dry I've either agitated or rinsed and so far no problems.


:)
 
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