How to determine the "least aggressive method?"

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McCoy

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Im reading/researching this site to improve my skills in this hobby. I dont have a real good grasp on the "least aggressive method."

Specifically, say I have a car with swirls. Do I use a tough compound and soft pad, or a high cut pad and moderate compound?

What is more aggressive, the pad or the compound?

How do I determine exactly which combination to use?

I have attempted paint correction on 1 car. A silver Scion. I used Megs ultimate compound with the PC7424, and DA CCS yellow pad. I didnt get all the swirls out, but I was rushing. I assume I went to fast. I can fix that on my next attempt.

How do I look at a car and say, oh yeah that will take x product with x pad? Is this simply and experience/feel thing? Or is there a more scientific way to go about it? I need a starting point.

Thanks :props:
 
You use the least aggressive method to get the results you're looking for. For example you would start with a light polish with a light polishing pad. Then check your results to see if you achieved what you wanted.

Always do a test spot
 
It is a little confusing on how to step up on aggressiveness.

I started with Ultimate Polish and a LC flat white pad.

I'm not sure what is more aggressive for the next step up. Would it be Ultimate Compound with a white pad or Ultimate Polish with an orange pad. It seems there's some overlap there.

Then more aggressive than that would be Ultimate Compound with an orange pad. I haven't gone more aggressive than that.

Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.
 
I like the Menzerna chart, this really helps steer you in the right direction.

Me personally, I always step up the pad before stepping up the polish or compound.
 
custmsprty said:
I like the Menzerna chart, this really helps steer you in the right direction.

Me personally, I always step up the pad before stepping up the polish or compound.
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👍🏽👍🏽

That helps.
 
I too step up pad first then product...dunno why but felt that was the right way.

I also apply this method when it comes to cleaning things IE: Door Jambs, Interior panels. Why use a 4:1 APC when Just a damp MF towel or ONR or Meguiars QID will work. You can apply the "least aggressive method" to every aspect of detailing.
 
dcjredline said:
I too step up pad first then product...dunno why but felt that was the right way.

I also apply this method when it comes to cleaning things IE: Door Jambs, Interior panels. Why use a 4:1 APC when Just a damp MF towel or ONR or Meguiars QID will work. You can apply the "least aggressive method" to every aspect of detailing.
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Great tips in this thread all around!
 
Great point, Don. I use the same approach i.e. using just and only whats needed on all aspects of detailing.

I also use similar approaches to cutting paint in that i will step up the pad first before using a more aggressive product. To me it just feels like a natural and more controllable progression to add a little more pad bite to that compound or cutting polish. That's not to say i don't switch to a more aggressive product at times but probably 70 percent of the time i grab a coarser pad first and see what that does.

I also may nuance some cut out of a second go with the same pad and product. I cut with a rotary and pressure variances and speed can maybe get that next 20 percent of leveling leaving only a milder polish and pad to clean it up. Let's say i'm getting about 50-60 percent correction with the first test spot. I might get 70-80 percent with a little more muscle and leaving the remaining 25-15 percent for a lighter approach. I will honestly say that 100 percent correction for me remains somewhat elusive.

Basically i go with a coarser pad to add some bite before i change product but it depends on the paint i'm working with.
 
Yes, great tips in here.

Follow-up question: For those of you who do this for a living, do you see this "step up" approach as a time waster? If you sell a job that is supposed to take 2 hours and you spend 30-40 minutes swapping out pads and whatnot, you are losing money.

In this case would you just throw sandpaper at it (metaphorically speaking) from the start, or do you charge straight T & M?

I was looking a local detailer's price sheet and on the ala carte menu was "buffing.....$45/hr"
 
It may take me 10-15 mins to do 2-4 test areas. That 10-15 mins is before maybe anywhere from 4-8 hours of cutting and polishing and all of which was time within my quoted price. My quoted price is determined by my estimate of hours at an hourly rate...from start to finish. It includes the time it takes me to dial in my cut and buff efforts. And even that is after maybe a 1.5 hour wash, decon and dry.

I am not at a level that i could complete a 2 stage correction and LSP in 2-4 hours. Heck, i couldn't do a 1 step in that time considering my wash and decon is about 1-1.5 hours.

Basically, for me anyway, dialing in the best and least aggressive approach to use for that client based on what they wanted is a very small amount of time within a larger time frame. I quote on TOTAL time to finish everything requested. If it takes say a half hour to 45 mins to do some test areas that's fine. Then give them a price for 2 hours and 45 mins.

I'll tell ya what was a bothersome time waster for me when i first started out...using anywhere from 2-6 pads on test areas that i would maybe have to clean out cus i didn't have enough pads way back then. I have plenty now and having heard many times "you can never have too many pads or MF's" found that statement very TRUE!
 
Puckman said:
It may take me 10-15 mins to do 2-4 test areas. That 10-15 mins is before maybe anywhere from 4-8 hours of cutting and polishing and all of which was time within my quoted price. My quoted price is determined by my estimate of hours at an hourly rate...from start to finish. It includes the time it takes me to dial in my cut and buff efforts. And even that is after maybe a 1.5 hour wash, decon and dry.

I am not at a level that i could complete a 2 stage correction and LSP in 2-4 hours. Heck, i couldn't do a 1 step in that time considering my wash and decon is about 1-1.5 hours.

Basically, for me anyway, dialing in the best and least aggressive approach to use for that client based on what they wanted is a very small amount of time within a larger time frame. I quote on TOTAL time to finish everything requested. If it takes say a half hour to 45 mins to do some test areas that's fine. Then give them a price for 2 hours and 45 mins.

I'll tell ya what was a bothersome time waster for me when i first started out...using anywhere from 2-6 pads on test areas that i would maybe have to clean out cus i didn't have enough pads way back then. I have plenty now and having heard many times "you can never have too many pads or MF's" found that statement very TRUE!
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Great Answer!

Thanks for taking the time Puckman.
 
You're more than welcome but always remember you get someone's opinion and personal experience based answer here. While it's nice to hear others who may agree with you, it's even better, to me, to hear how other's do it differently. Feeds an open mind.
 
I'll add this if it wasn't said. When checking your work and assessing the test spot, do not go more aggressive in the same spot. The reason is that you've already corrected there and the result will be skewed. Move to a new spot for each test.

Try four test spots: UP on white and orange, UC on white and orange. Go with the one that corrected the best, check in the sun. If big swirls are gone, but tiny 2 or 3mm swirls and haze are present, that's micro marring, and a polish step will be necessary.
 
Yes, another excellent point! That's kind of one of those "assumed" things everyone knows but worth mentioning to insure you get the best info from your test spot(s). You certainly want to correct what is your baseline condition around the vehicle. The only time i will hit that same area again in a test is to see which finishing polish i might want to use if a 2 stepper.
 
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