How to get a DA close to molding edges?

NickNickNick

NickNickNick

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What is the best way to get a DA with a foam pad close to raised moldings without making a mess?
I tried to put product on the edge of the pad as an experiment and get in real tight to the molding but that just caused polish to get thrown all over the place.

Any advice?

Thanks!
Nick
 
Change the DA tool's action to just rotation, not oscillation. :laughing:

In all seriousness, spend extra time taping the molding very precisely. It is always difficult to get good correction with a DA in those tight corners and at edges, and it can be very dangerous to do it with a rotary.
 
Ok so i get the tape part.
On the pad side, should I apply more product to the edges instead of the 4-5 dots on the face? Or are you saying to just run the machine over the molding like a flat panel?

Thanks for the help.
Nick
 
Impossible with a Rupes 21

8mm throw DA allows you to get much closer
 
Tape it off and get very close with out touching, the tape is there in case you do. I have found that when bufing itoff,it takes care of tht thin linebetween buffer pass and blulding. If yu want you can alwaays tape off and do a 1 inch area around it by hand and then your covered when you have your machine. just overlap the 1 in buffer (as in a safe margin of space) zone you did by hand.
 
Also keep in mind that the eye is naturally drawn to the center of a panel rather than to a general edge or one near a moulding. It is still important to ensure the clarity of the paint in these areas, but removing every scratch and swirl may not be worth your time or a customers money depending on the nature of the vehicle.
 
A good AIO on a wolfgang polishing finger pocket works great for precise paint cleaning.
 
Hi, when doing edges by hand, should I use the same compound and polish products and similar hand pad material or there's a different setup to suggest?
 
NickNickNick said:
Ok so i get the tape part.
On the pad side, should I apply more product to the edges instead of the 4-5 dots on the face? Or are you saying to just run the machine over the molding like a flat panel?

Thanks for the help.
Nick
Click to expand...

The only time I've wanted to prime the edges is when your doing a concave surface. Sling is kinda of contained, but only priming as a precaution.
 
RMCY said:
Hi, when doing edges by hand, should I use the same compound and polish products and similar hand pad material or there's a different setup to suggest?
Click to expand...

I would recommend using Klasse AIO near plastic trim, especially if it's non-painted trim because Klasse AIO is typically less staining than traditional polishes. Secondly, the cleaning action is taken care of by chemicals rather than abrasives, which will require less effort on your part, i.e. less scrubbing/polishing. I forgot to mention Blackfire Total Polish & Seal. It's darker in color, so staining won't stick out as much.
Optimum offers a glaze/polish/sealant in one product. You could consider this too because it has both cleaning and filling capabilities.
 
Now I just use my pneumatic mini-DA from HF. If that's not an option for you then get some 3inch pads for your DA. When working on areas like stated, then making sure the product is worked into the pad before turning on the machine will mitigate any sling. Remember you don't need very much product to create a working film of polish.
 
Pictures of what you are trying to polish please

Close-UPS that accurately show the defects you are trying to correct

No thumbnails please
 
Apologies for not posting pictures earlier. I will do so ASAP, once the snow stops falling :xyxthumbs:

In the meantime, the molding in question is the body color side molding seen in this pic, which I did not get close enough to polish, leaving swirl remnants around the edges. I'll try to get close ups of the defect shortly.

watermark.php


watermark.php
 
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