How to make your stanless steel door sills look brand new

OAN: the Tripoli from your site is ~ 100 grit lower than the Tripoli that I use. I have one bar from Menzerna and wanted to try out the entire line up. But I'm pretty adept at what I use, and the Menzerna line is 3X (each bar) the cost of what I use.
 
Yes Sir. No lingering doubts. I kinda figured you were going for gloss after the GG episode. Not at all surprised that you went for the brushed on the latter.
As you described your "pass", one direction is cutting, and the opposite is polishing. So you would not get full correction using this method, or limited number of passes. If you would have chosen the emory instead of the tripoli, then went with the stainless bar instead of the white, then you would have made more progress. Also, I think you stated using the tall cylindrical buff. If you would have went with the hard sewn, you also would have attained better results.

The bottom line is that the bling you achieved is undeniable. I think that you picked a trifecta.


I'll have to try and post pics of the buffs I used. The cylindrical one had a smaller radius, was the heaviest and most dense. I tried the firmer of the two sewn wheels with Tripoli also, and although it has a bigger radius and therefore higher contact speed, it did not cut as well as the cylinder. It also did not allow me to apply as much pressure as it deformed too easily. You're right that a hard sewn wheel would have been quicker. I'll definitely be ordering one for future use.

Also the Tripoli was the coarsest rouge that came with the kit, so unfortunately I didn't have much choice there.

Been an interesting learning experience, so thanks for the inputs. Sounds like you know your way around a polishing wheel :)
 
For clarification, these are the buffs that were used in steps 3 and 4 in the initial post.
I couldn't find links to the individual parts on the website so I will just post snapshots from the package pic:

This is the buff used in step 3 with Brown/Tripoli compound:
It is dense and allows for a good amount of pressure to be applied.



This is the buff used in step 4 with white compound:
Lower density but good for getting a higher level of gloss.

 
I hope that others respond to this, but the former is used mostly for buffing, while the later is for heavy cutting. They can be used for either, but since the piece is SS I would revisit the spiral sewn for cutting. There's a method to the madness.

I understand your method of pressure and how you used these together, but your biggest drawback in getting 100% correction is lack of SFPM that the 2500rmp drill is limited to...and the fact that you lose rpm's as more presure is applied. You need about 7000 SFPM's to get correction needed for mirror finish.

Personally, I don't understand how you were able to achieve the end product, therefore my mention of coated/anodized...which I don't know to be accurate or not Different strokes for different folks I guess :props:

For me to get mirror finish, I would not drop so low in sanding grit initially. I would have had several sanding stages, and at least 3, possibly 4, compounding steps.

Anyhoo, as long as YOU are satisfied with your method and end product, that's all that really matters. Post is getting long and I have things to do right now. Will pm you links to two supply sites and their polishing guides.
 
Video from Eastwood

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SidCppOfJY]How-to & Buffing Basics Demonstration Live with Eastwood - YouTube[/video]
 
Anyone have experience with the green stainless steel compound?
 
They discuss Green Compound and all the other colors in the video
 
They discuss Green Compound and all the other colors in the video
I watched the video but didn't know what others had to say. He doesn't say much or demonstrate it.

I use it mainly as a "cheater" step blinging out aluminum.
Could it remove brush marks in SS? I'm trying to remove them from my exhaust tips but didn't know if a corded drill could produce enough speed to remove the marks.
 
Could it remove brush marks in SS? I'm trying to remove them from my exhaust tips but didn't know if a corded drill could produce enough speed to remove the marks.
With enough time and the right buff/bob.
However, sometimes it will require a stronger grit depending on marks.
Can you get a good photo?
 
This is the best I have right now. I know it doesn't show much. I will try to get another good one tomorrow.
a7y2y6y6.jpg
 
Good pic. Easily achieved flawless finish.
I'm a big believer is sanding first even though most advanced polishers go right to compound. The reason that I work backwards on these small projects is because I know what grit each bar is capable of handling. SS is not my passion.
 
I was only going to wetsand if I really needed it. I didn't know if tripoli was strong enough to remove those marks.
It looks a little worse closer up. They are very dulled from the brush marks, I want to get them to a mirror shine like the rest of the tips. It seems like the only part that is all brushed up is the small lip on the inside of the tip, the ~1/2 inch part you can see that is dulled in the picture.
 
Well, try your spot on the 12 o'clock position if using a bob. If it doesn't work, then no loss and out of sight. :cool:
Just be aware that it may take quite some time. Also that you may have to polish with the green, then white. Just depends.

Polishing stainless is a lot like polishing glass.
Small steps. Notice 57BORNTORUN's post.
 
I was only going to wetsand if I really needed it. I didn't know if tripoli was strong enough to remove those marks.

Forgot to mention. If you can catch your fingernail on it...you know the rest.


Paint work is no real challenge anymore. Anybody is capable of getting professional results.

Bright work is very rewarding. Aluminum is like the arm candy girlfriend of years gone by. Beautiful, sexy, and up for anything. You can ride her hard, and put her out to pasture wet. She can become ragged around the edges, her gloss can fall off. Short cuts and quickies will at times bring out her best. She relishes your skillful tactics and rewards you with unparalleled gratification.

Stainless steel on the other hand, is the rock solid prima donna that impresses all with her beauty. Functional. Durable. She does not respond well to short cuts, and her blemishes, though minor and undetected by many, are a source of contention. Unlike her counterpart, she requires an intensive day spa treatment as opposed to a body massage to keep her looking best. Higher speeds/SFPM's, a careful eye, and gradual increments are REQUIRED to get her to satisfaction, and to bring us to jubilation.

[COLOR=#0e]Referencing[/COLOR] 57BORNTORUN
...Sometimes the more you sand the more the defects show.
Sometimes I go to 1500 grit before my stand polisher and rouges.

...I always go with the least sanding grit possible first but it then may require going to a lower grit and start over again. Stainless can be very deceptive through the polishing process depending on your requirements of the end results. Just my experiences as an anal stainless polisher.

We tend to use this derogatory term as a badge of honor. I prefer to view myself as dedicated to the pursuit of perfection when attacking these situations. Nothing less will be accepted. There's a preconceived gameplan that's to be followed, but her grains may pull us in another direction if she is to be brought back to her full glory.
There are those that post muti-hour paint correction, fastidiously nuancing every drop of gloss that they can. But report of using #0000 ss wool/metal polish on the exhaust tips...We CRINGE at reading this.

Anyhoo, Unlike paint correction, metal finishers go about their work seldomly strategizing alike, but ending up with the same fulfillment.
Enough from me for now.
Will see you around the forums :props:
 
Haha very informative post and good analogies! Thanks for the tips Vegas, I will be sure to post befores and afters in a new thread once completed. Cheers
 
I make and have made my comments not as a Pro. stainless polisher but as a hobbyist.It just bothers me when I see nice restorations with no attention to detail to stainless trim which is more prevalent on pre-60`s cars.I could not image doing it for a living day in and day out.(But then again people questioned how I could have worked my vegetable and cattle farm 24-7 for close to 20 years).To each their own it`s just sometimes(most) you dont see instant gratification polishing stainless like you may when polishing paint.
 
I make and have made my comments not as a Pro. stainless polisher but as a hobbyist.

...To each their own it`s just sometimes(most) you dont see instant gratification polishing stainless like you may when polishing paint.


+1. People want correction, but not willing to pay the price.

And...

SS can get you into hot water fast. Nothing like working backwards on a seemingly simple project.

I don't blame the OP for his attempt. Those parts range from $100 for cheap Chinese knockoffs to $800 for the set. JEESH!!!
 
+1. People want correction, but not willing to pay the price.

And...

SS can get you into hot water fast. Nothing like working backwards on a seemingly simple project.

I don't blame the OP for his attempt. Those parts range from $100 for cheap Chinese knockoffs to $800 for the set. JEESH!!!

VT, educate me on why 0000 steel wool and metal polish is not good on stainless steel? I was actually planning to tackle some stainless with that combo today, but on a dental tool, not car related if that matters.
 
I was actually planning to tackle some stainless with that combo today, but on a dental tool, not car related if that matters.
Hi Roshan...

I'm hoping all's well at Dental College...
But are they making you use ol' beaten/scratched-up...crusty/rusty dental tools!! :eek:...{LOL}
VT, educate me on why 0000 steel wool and metal polish is not good on stainless steel?

Even though I'm not VT, I still share his sentiments regarding steel-wool...
and have expressed so many times.

In your honest opinion, my Friend:
Could these 12 and 7 years old exhausts still have looked this decent using whatever-ought-steel-wool...and some metal polish?





Anyways...
Good Luck with your ongoing studies.

:)

Bob
 
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