how to prevent battery drainage during long details?...

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So this has happened to me twice, the second time today. I am very meticulous about keeping the car running at least some of the time while I am cleaning the doors/jambs etc. Now normally, a car's batt. shouldn't really die when the doors are open for awhile, but both cars I that have died on me had OLD batteries. (the 04 volvo I did was starting very weakly in the first place....) Luckily, both cars that have died were owned by friends, so it was all good, but I do NOT want this happenning in the future. The first time, a few months ago, the customer called the next day after driving fine to work but not being able to start his 91 caddy afterwards. this time, the customer drove it back home fine, but it wouldnt start ~ an hour later. lucily both customers were local friends, so I was able to give them jumps, & they werent all that upset. I was thinking about making a waiver or something so that the customers know that detailing implies keeping doors open, & that a dead batt. is not my fault. I would like them to come in knowing that, and also come in w/ at least 1/4 tank of gas so I can keep the car running in order to keep the battery charged. what do you guys think? how would you deal with this or how do you deal with this kind of thing?
 
Sounds like both these cars batteries were on their last leg. You should be able to run the doom lights for 24hrs or more and it should still start

I keep a battery charger and booster cables for times like this

You could disconnect the negative cable, but then you will need to reset everything. Also, check to see if you can turn the doom light off
 
Flash just beat me to it!

Are you working mobile or fixed location? A cheap trickle charger would be a good investment. Keep the battery charging while you detail. Not sure how that work if you are mobile unless you have a generator to plug the charger into.
 
Flash just beat me to it!

Are you working mobile or fixed location? A cheap trickle charger would be a good investment. Keep the battery charging while you detail. Not sure how that work if you are mobile unless you have a generator to plug the charger into.

lol I just laughed when you said "flash beat me to it"

for some reason I thought of the speedy super hero. Sorry for the randomness reply
 
If you disconnect a battery on some older cars and most new ones you can either cause the radio to go into lockout mode or have problems with the computer and you'll need to reprogram some things like the heater doors and windows. The radio is the big thing. Newer cars use CAN. in lay mans terms its newer obd2. Its a pain and you need a scanner/tech tool to reprogram. The radios that get locked out you need to have the code to unlock or its a trip to the dealer, which costs money. Just thought I would share.
 
A way to apis this is by using a keep alive memorytool. It plugs into your cigarette lighter and uses a 9 volt battery. While not always proven to work all the time, I would recommend using them. They have different styles. Just make sure the 9 volt batteryis fairly new. Another option is a trickle charger or solar charger. Haven't used solar so I can't vouch for it but seems like it would work for detailing mobile since it doesn't require power.
 
Most probably it is not the dome lights remaining on for long periods of time that is the problem but moving power seats back and forth, up and down while cleaning carpets/mats that real culprit. If dome lights prove to be the real issue, on most cars they are easy to turn off via overhead switches.
 
I keep a jumper pack on the van. If a battery dies, I can still hook it up to the battery so that way I have enough juice to move seats around (particularly Volvos).
 
You might want to keep two 2 gallon gas cans handy. One with 87 and the other with 93. Just in case someone comes in low.
 
A way to apis this is by using a keep alive memorytool. It plugs into your cigarette lighter and uses a 9 volt battery. While not always proven to work all the time, I would recommend using them. They have different styles. Just make sure the 9 volt batteryis fairly new. Another option is a trickle charger or solar charger. Haven't used solar so I can't vouch for it but seems like it would work for detailing mobile since it doesn't require power.


evrything on a car runs on 12 volts. the 9 volt is just to keep the memory on everything alive. if you open the door or trunk the 9 volt will die within 5 seconds. i would go the charger route.
 
Flash just beat me to it!

Are you working mobile or fixed location? A cheap trickle charger would be a good investment. Keep the battery charging while you detail. Not sure how that work if you are mobile unless you have a generator to plug the charger into.

I love it when that happens :)

lol I just laughed when you said "flash beat me to it"

for some reason I thought of the speedy super hero. Sorry for the randomness reply

If only I could learn how to spell :(

You might want to keep two 2 gallon gas cans handy. One with 87 and the other with 93. Just in case someone comes in low.

If someone doesn't leave me enough gas to move the car the lenght of my driveway (30') their getting lawnmower gas ;)
 
Are you working mobile or fixed location? A cheap trickle charger would be a good investment. Keep the battery charging while you detail. Not sure how that work if you are mobile unless you have a generator to plug the charger into.[/QUOTE]

I'm working in a fixed location. I do have a 400 watt portable generator so if I needed to do a car at someone else's house upon special request.

If you disconnect a battery on some older cars and most new ones you can either cause the radio to go into lockout mode or have problems with the computer and you'll need to reprogram some things like the heater doors and windows. The radio is the big thing. Newer cars use CAN. in lay mans terms its newer obd2. Its a pain and you need a scanner/tech tool to reprogram. The radios that get locked out you need to have the code to unlock or its a trip to the dealer, which costs money. Just thought I would share.

so you would NOT recommend disconnecting the battery then....just get a trickle charger maybe? how about this one:
Battery Tender 5-Watt Solar Charger, solar battery charger, 12 volt charger

Most probably it is not the dome lights remaining on for long periods of time that is the problem but moving power seats back and forth, up and down while cleaning carpets/mats that real culprit. If dome lights prove to be the real issue, on most cars they are easy to turn off via overhead switches.

ahhhh darned power seats!! I actually hate them! it takes forever for them to move 2 inches when I can move myself a foot in the same time w/ a manual seat + now they're causing detailing problems :P

You might want to keep two 2 gallon gas cans handy. One with 87 and the other with 93. Just in case someone comes in low.
smart idea getting both octanes...
 
If you disconnect a battery on some older cars and most new ones you can either cause the radio to go into lockout mode or have problems with the computer and you'll need to reprogram some things like the heater doors and windows. The radio is the big thing. Newer cars use CAN. in lay mans terms its newer obd2. Its a pain and you need a scanner/tech tool to reprogram. The radios that get locked out you need to have the code to unlock or its a trip to the dealer, which costs money. Just thought I would share.

So true! And if you ever have the power on a Land Rover Range Rover drop out you will either need a $10k computer for them or know the "tricks" to reprogram everything (I mean everything: Sunroof, Windows, HVAC, seats, radio code required (and if you don't have this you have to have the client go to the dealer and get it with proof of ownership and pay about $150.00), keyless entry, etc) Some of the MBZ and BMW's are like this also...

Most probably it is not the dome lights remaining on for long periods of time that is the problem but moving power seats back and forth, up and down while cleaning carpets/mats that real culprit. If dome lights prove to be the real issue, on most cars they are easy to turn off via overhead switches.

I tend to see it more often in the Vans and SUV's with power sliding doors and lift gates... 2 opens/closes on each with a few seat movements will kill the battery quick... I generally run the vehicle for about 5 min between each interior section I do (driver side, passenger side, and rear)

Domes can kill them but not often or likely... The other thing that comes to mind is the auto headlights that have no switch to turn on or off (new Audis and Volvos tend to be these)...

I have a jump box here at the shop and a trickle charger also...
 
looks like they need bat more then a detail. just get a charger . I get this on lots of boats coming out of storage for details and I charge them 10.00 to charge there bats back up. They love it that they are good to go when I am done with there boat
 
Sounds like both these cars batteries were on their last leg. You should be able to run the doom lights for 24hrs or more and it should still start

I keep a battery charger and booster cables for times like this

You could disconnect the negative cable, but then you will need to reset everything. Also, check to see if you can turn the doom light off


Agree 110%....No good battery should drain out after 30-45 mins interior work...How long did it take you to do the interior???
 
Just a quick question...Do all you guys connect a trickle charge when you detail...I've not come across that problem yet...Just curious...
 
Just a quick question...Do all you guys connect a trickle charge when you detail...I've not come across that problem yet...Just curious...

The only time I do is either a FULL interior only (seat removal etc) or Range Rovers or those vehicles with all power opening crap...
 
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