How to price for Opti-Coat service

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Hey whats up all,

ive got a bid coming up on a freshly painted Camaro. The owner wants it opti-coated after the paint cure time passes but i wanted a little hlep with the bid.

I figure more than likely this thing will probably require a polishing pass like 205 after being washed (dont think clay will be needed) and then cleaned with IPA and then coated.

I know OC is about $60...and i already figured to charge him whatever product i have to buy but not sure about how much to charge for application. Also any advice on prep and application would be appreciated.

Ive done a good amount of reading on it but still want some input from those who have used it, especially now that its been out for a while. I know it goes on paint, trim, rims...ive heard some say yes and some say no to applying to windows/windshield.

I figured id do all the paint first, work top to bottom as usual. Figured I'd do rims last since they are the lowest to the ground...but any input would be appreciated on pricing and application.

thanks

 

[CEE DOG]

As far as pricing goes it doesn't take much more time to apply than a wax or sealant takes to apply and remove. So assuming you already have a car in for a correction package the time isn't a big factor in my book. The risk and stress is the biggest factor. Also important is the "value added" aspect. What is the service worth to your market?

The stakes are higher than a sealant or wax to get it right so take your time, focus and be sure to make it flash in a timely (consistent) manner. The risk is that lighting or some other situation might go wonky that day so add a bit in for that. Lighting is key. Bright white daylight but not direct sun is great. LEDs are helpful as well.

The first time I used OC I applied it similar to how the AG description directs and how many people talked about when it first came out but I learned from Chris that you could apply it similar to a wowa sealant. It's not at all the same because the stakes are higher and you need to make sure it flashes. It's more important that you pay close attention when applying OC. What I mean by wowa is you buff it in, not just wipe it on in straight lines like some people talk about. However it differs from a wowa after that. You want even coverage which if applied in straight lines (even if you don't see any high spots) I believe there will be invisible ridges on some level. If you were to park outside at night and get condensation then you would be able to see if you had these invisible ridges... Not that they matter if they are invisible I guess. Lol

Really some people seem to have great success with the straight line technique so do a test panel on your car to see what works for you and then proceed.

Here's a video from this thread that shows how I started applying it after reading Chris's updated method.

Note the speed at which the product flashes is dependant on the temperature and humidity in my experience. The application to the taillight took place on a separate occasion but was spliced together in this video.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...extreme-testing-opti-coat-2-0-cquartz-12.html

 

[TLMitchell]

ive got a bid coming up on a freshly painted Camaro. The owner wants it opti-coated after the paint cure time passes but i wanted a little hlep with the bid.

As far as pricing goes it doesn't take much more time to apply than a wax or sealant takes to apply and remove. So assuming you already have a car in for a correction package the time isn't a big factor in my book. The risk and stress is the biggest factor. Also important is the "value added" aspect. What is the service worth to your market?

I'm seeing numerous folks on other Forums adding a flat $200 to whatever they charge for their normal detail with wax/sealant. In addition to added product cost they're figuring the added value and the additional attention to application detail with that figure. Depending on how many vehicles you get out of a tube once you become confident and proficient and your speed picks up there's a pretty good additional profit margin there methinks! :xyxthumbs: Of course, if you're dealing with regular customers you'll be losing the repeat business other than light spruceups. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other...

Here's a video from this thread that shows how I started applying it after reading Chris's updated method.

Nice vid! rops: I'm working it in the same way and using the reverse side of the pad to smooth it out also. The first part of the application goes on a bit heavy so I'm repeatedly returning to that spot to smooth it out and impart more product to the pad before adding any additional drops.

There's a few things that take some preplanning vs a traditional wax or sealant. I'll be doing my full size extended cab Silverado when I get the time for the perfecto polishing job. As you might guess, the hood is large and it's a chore just reaching the middle. The middle of the panel is sunken with two higher sections on each side with well defined valleys transitioning to the sunken center. I expect I'll be starting in the middle and coating one side of the sunken section then running over to the other side to repeat, then inspecting and smoothing any high spots. Then the same on each individual higher side of the hood panel. Any overlap should take place in the middle of the hood and the valley transitions. Probably the same routine on the roof. It'll be interesting to see how much of the tube I'll use on a large barge like that.

The other interesting part of this job is the truck is white. Experimenting with the underside of the painted wheel wells it appears a Brinkmann in one hand and the pad in the other is the only way you can see it going on white.

TL

 

[Flash Gordon]

Nice review Corey. I was wondering about this stuff as well

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

As far as pricing goes it doesn't take much more time to apply than a wax or sealant takes to apply and remove. So assuming you already have a car in for a correction package the time isn't a big factor in my book. The risk and stress is the biggest factor. Also important is the "value added" aspect. What is the service worth to your market?

The stakes are higher than a sealant or wax to get it right so take your time, focus and be sure to make it flash in a timely (consistent) manner. The risk is that lighting or some other situation might go wonky that day so add a bit in for that. Lighting is key. Bright white daylight but not direct sun is great. LEDs are helpful as well.

The first time I used OC I applied it similar to how the AG description directs and how many people talked about when it first came out but I learned from Chris that you could apply it similar to a wowa sealant. It's not at all the same because the stakes are higher and you need to make sure it flashes. It's more important that you pay close attention when applying OC. What I mean by wowa is you buff it in, not just wipe it on in straight lines like some people talk about. However it differs from a wowa after that. You want even coverage which if applied in straight lines (even if you don't see any high spots) I believe there will be invisible ridges on some level. If you were to park outside at night and get condensation then you would be able to see if you had these invisible ridges... Not that they matter if they are invisible I guess. Lol

Really some people seem to have great success with the straight line technique so do a test panel on your car to see what works for you and then proceed.

Here's a video from this thread that shows how I started applying it after reading Chris's updated method.

Note the speed at which the product flashes is dependant on the temperature and humidity in my experience. The application to the taillight took place on a separate occasion but was spliced together in this video.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a4637xYAag

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...extreme-testing-opti-coat-2-0-cquartz-12.html

Corey just a couple other questions.

First, would you think a single pass polish would be needed on fresh paint over the WHOLE car or should i just spot out the bad areas? Second, what product do you use to remove old residue/wax etc ...and how do you test to make SURE the residue/wax is stripped?

Lastly, i noticed you don't use a MF towel to level out the high spots...you just sort of go over it with the foam pad...is that pretty much how you always do it...and do you have an order of what parts of the car you first apply it to?

I'm seeing numerous folks on other Forums adding a flat $200 to whatever they charge for their normal detail with wax/sealant. In addition to added product cost they're figuring the added value and the additional attention to application detail with that figure. Depending on how many vehicles you get out of a tube once you become confident and proficient and your speed picks up there's a pretty good additional profit margin there methinks! :xyxthumbs: Of course, if you're dealing with regular customers you'll be losing the repeat business other than light spruceups. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other...



Nice vid! rops: I'm working it in the same way and using the reverse side of the pad to smooth it out also. The first part of the application goes on a bit heavy so I'm repeatedly returning to that spot to smooth it out and impart more product to the pad before adding any additional drops.

There's a few things that take some preplanning vs a traditional wax or sealant. I'll be doing my full size extended cab Silverado when I get the time for the perfecto polishing job. As you might guess, the hood is large and it's a chore just reaching the middle. The middle of the panel is sunken with two higher sections on each side with well defined valleys transitioning to the sunken center. I expect I'll be starting in the middle and coating one side of the sunken section then running over to the other side to repeat, then inspecting and smoothing any high spots. Then the same on each individual higher side of the hood panel. Any overlap should take place in the middle of the hood and the valley transitions. Probably the same routine on the roof. It'll be interesting to see how much of the tube I'll use on a large barge like that.

The other interesting part of this job is the truck is white. Experimenting with the underside of the painted wheel wells it appears a Brinkmann in one hand and the pad in the other is the only way you can see it going on white.

TL

Well this guy just dropped almost 8k on a paint job...i think somewhere in the ballpark of $250-300 is surely within reason for him lol. I dont want to over charge, but on the other hand i dont want to slit my own throat either. For a wash/clay/wax on a car im usually around $70...so add $200 and im within that range. Figure $60 of it is going out the door for product. I'm just trying to figure is what to charge if i have to do a single pass polish (probably 205)..or IF it even needs it (ill know tomorrow when i see it). If i do have to do a polish on it...should i just spot polish the areas that need it or do the WHOLE car? hmmm

 

[Slate G8 GT]

I just put OC on my sisters tahoe a couple of weeks ago, it needed correction though so I used OPT compound on it. The good thing about this is if you use OPT polishes an IPA wipe down is not required, just wipe it with a damp MF towel and you're ready to apply OC.rops:

I would at least do a light polish on anything I was applying OC to to make sure the paint was free of any contaminants like water spots, old waxes, etc.

Don't be too nervous over the application, I had never applied any kind of WOWA before and I had the hang of it after about 2 sections.

I've got a couple of people interested in me applying it to their cars and I told them $100 more over a sealant. But I just do this on the side to try and pay for my supplies, so I can see $150 or $200.Basically it boils down to how much they're willing to pay for it.

 

[Flash Gordon]

I've got a couple of people interested in me applying it to their cars and I told them $100 more over a sealant. But I just do this on the side to try and pay for my supplies, so I can see $150 or $200.Basically it boils down to how much they're willing to pay for it.

Still cheaper then that $800 dealer crap. I see a great market for this

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Still cheaper then that $800 dealer crap. I see a great market for this

Amen to that...just had lady hire us for a maint. wash monthly...but her BMW doesn't need wax for FOUR YEARS because "The dealership put something on it"...she showed the paperwork....its just an acrylic sealant...4 years...wow...wonder what that cost.