How to properly prep paint before polish?

Vancity808

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Hey guys new member here looking buy my own tools and learn some polishing, i've already figured out the pad/compound/da polishers that i want. One thing is, how do i properly "prep" my paint and what are the steps i need to take to make sure the car is ready to have swirls removed etc. What products do i need, what do i need to do. Would a simple wash dry and claybar "prep" the car for a paint correction, or are further steps needed to be taken to make sure all previous wax/sealants have been stripped off? Any help would be greatly appreciated guys :confused:
 
Yes good wash I like ironx then clay dont forget to tape. What products are using to compound and what pads?
 
Would a simple wash(add a few ounces of APC) dry and claybar "prep" the car for a paint correction
That's all you should need to do. :dblthumb2:

IronX is always good to do to remove the iron deposits, but it's not mandatory.
 
I'm looking to purchase the Griots RO polisher, with the CCS orange white and blue pad, along with the wolfgang TSR and the wolfgang FG, its all a kit another member suggested as a good starter. What should i be taping off, i dont need to use a special wash to strip previous wax / sealant? Suggestions on any specific brand of APC?
 
I'm looking to purchase the Griots RO polisher, with the CCS orange white and blue pad, along with the wolfgang TSR and the wolfgang FG, its all a kit another member suggested as a good starter. What should i be taping off, i dont need to use a special wash to strip previous wax / sealant?
Go with 5.5" LC flat pads and a 5" backing plate. An orange pad isn't the most aggressive pad and TSR is not the most aggressive polish. Depending on the hardness of your clearcoat, you may not remove all the defects wit this combo. You should tape off plastic trim to avoid staining it with polish. No special wash needed. Add a few ounces of APC to your wash and it'll strip what's needed. Blackfire APC is an excellent APC! So is Optimum Power Clean. What kind of car and color?
 
Heres a link to the reason why I'm looking into purchasing these products. My car is a 2014 Infiniti Q50S
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-forums/73511-orbital-buffer-swirls-help.html
However i've always wanted to get into detailing and learn how to polish so i guess its a good place to start.
The kit itself comes with a backing plate and all the pads that i listed. Several forum members told me i could get away with polishing out those buffer trails with the white pad / FG combo. However i wont only be doing this car, i've got a 2011 QX56 in need of a paint correction around the whole car.
 
Heres a link to the reason why I'm looking into purchasing these products. My car is a 2014 Infiniti Q50S
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-forums/73511-orbital-buffer-swirls-help.html
However i've always wanted to get into detailing and learn how to polish so i guess its a good place to start.
The kit itself comes with a backing plate and all the pads that i listed. Several forum members told me i could get away with polishing out those buffer trails with the white pad / FG combo. However i wont only be doing this car, i've got a 2011 QX56 in need of a paint correction around the whole car.
Do you know if your Infiniti's have "self healing" paint? That paint is a PITA to polish.
 
I'm looking to purchase the Griots RO polisher, with the CCS orange white and blue pad, along with the wolfgang TSR and the wolfgang FG, its all a kit another member suggested as a good starter. What should i be taping off, i dont need to use a special wash to strip previous wax / sealant? Suggestions on any specific brand of APC?


The griots is a great da I went with the pc but wish have gotten the griots. I seem to like the mirco firber cutting pads seems better to me. I did have the hex logic pads at 1st they worked great too. I used m105 and m205 combo for my 1st time and had great results.For soap I like ironx soap foam to take any wax off I'm sure you could use dawn I don't..Also don't forget to clay it. When tapping I'm talking about when you have to use any compound that makes dust just tape any rubber you have..
 
My car doesnt have the self healing paint, it doesnt work anyways.

Robbiek yeah i was considering the meguiars m105/205 combo but someone recommended that the wolfgang combo was a little more user friendly as the 105 was harder to work with.
+ anyone have a link to the ironx cleaner? cant seem to find anything but huge sizes in the shop, one of these snow soap perhaps ? CarPro Iron X Snow Soap, paint decontamination soap
 
My car doesnt have the self healing paint, it doesnt work anyways.

Robbiek yeah i was considering the meguiars m105/205 combo but someone recommended that the wolfgang combo was a little more user friendly as the 105 was harder to work with.

+ anyone have a link to the ironx cleaner? cant seem to find anything but huge sizes in the shop
This is better than IronX....

Auto Finesse Iron Out Iron Remover

WG combo is more user friendly.
 
The auto finesse iron out seem like a pretty good choice ! thanks !
 
Several known members have given you some solid advice. For now, skip the Iron-x. Maybe do something like AMMO Plum for your wheels though. Best Iron deposit remover for wheels yet.

Clay the vehicles then do your work. Pending the aggressiveness of your swirls or if you have a dark vehicle the compounding stage or leveling stage is the biggest worry you have. That pad and product choice will make or break you. Meg's 105 is a solid choice and the Wolfgang twins are too. How about Meg's D300 which is intended for use with their microfiber pads. It has very little if any dusting and is easy to apply with long working times and easy to remove. Also will not stain trim. I have yet to have a vehicle that won't respond to this compound. Highly suggest this product.

Polish----- Menzerna SF4500 is the choice to go to. The D300 will finish excellent and the Mens will top it off with an easy to work and easy to remove polish. It is a Jewelable (made that up) product also. You would be pleased with this.

Pads----- LC Hydro Tech pads. Get several Cyan cutting pads and then several Tangerine pads. These help prevent soak of product into the pad. The CCS pads soak a lot of product it seems to me. I also have learned that changing pads out after a few panels works with better results, better product application, and saves time. You only need ONE Finishing pad for your sealant.

These are only my suggestions, as I said in the beginning, several members have given you great advice also.

Hint---- The GG DA is a great buffer along with the PC. If you plan to really get into doing this with your cars, you might think about bumping up to a more powerful DA to start. I know many of us who after the first purchase turned the original into a 3", and got the more powerful one. The learning curve will be the same, just will make it a lot easier when you are doing vertical panel and curved panels. Flex, or the Rupes 15 are not cheap, but will work wonders for you if it is in your budget. If not you have made some good choices to start.
 
I've went ahead and made the purchase on the GG polisher with the wolfgang twins combo, which also comes with the orange white and blue pad & 2 microfibers. Also purchased a swirlfinder and auto finesse iron out.

As suggested I i plan to use the FG with the white pad as most likely that will do the job. If not moving onto the TSR with the white pad then finishing off with the FG, and followed by the blue pad and a coat of wax. Now the kit comes with only one of each pad, do i need to wash the pads between compounds, or will the cleaner brush do the job? Any suggestions on the order pad combo or techniques i should be aware of?

And the paint on my car is black absolutely flawless, if you follow my link you'll see my story of a door ding and a hackjob detailer leading to one door having buffer trails on my brand new 2014 Infiniti Q50S, which kind of gave me an excuse to spend the money and learn something I've always wanted to. With this kit hopefully I'll be able to do my other cars as well which have swirls marks. Eventually building and buying more product and increasing my variety, hopefully increasing my knowledge with help from the forum and experience, i've always admired a beautiful car, and the paint correction threads done by some of the guys on the forum, have unbelievable results that i'd love to one day be able to achieve.

I plan to pick up a junkyard hood off of whatever black car i can find toss it in the truck, take it home, and practice a bit on that before moving onto one of my actual cars.
 
FivePoint.0: You mentioned adding APC to the wash solution at the start. Is that to strip away the pervious wax/sealant? How much do you add to a bucket?
 
FivePoint.0: You mentioned adding APC to the wash solution at the start. Is that to strip away the pervious wax/sealant? How much do you add to a bucket?
Yes. I add 2 ounces per 4 gallons of water. :dblthumb2:
 
Yes. I add 2 ounces per 4 gallons of water. :dblthumb2:

What happens if you don't strip prior to compounding or polishing?
Wouldn't the compound/polish quickly remove any LSP?
Or does the old sealant/wax hinder the polishing process?
 
Read through this...

How to wash your car KISS style!



And this...


2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Show Car Makeover Pictures


and if you really want to get the paint as flat and smooth as possible when removing above surface bonded contaminants... do this....


Removing Overspray Paint using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads

1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_019.jpg




I know I show a lot of hot rods and muscle cars in a lot of my write-ups but you don't have to own cars like these to do the same things and thus get the same results...

To some degree... paint is paint...


Here's the results from the above...


1963 Plymouth Fury Drag Race Car - Pictures & Video


1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_012.jpg



1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_009.jpg




:)
 
I plan to pick up a junkyard hood off of whatever black car i can find toss it in the truck, take it home, and practice a bit on that before moving onto one of my actual cars.

Look for trunk lids too... a lot of cars in the wrecking yard have been hit in either the front or the back leaving only one end with a straight panel.


Take enough sockets and wrenches to work on both Standard and Metric bolts and it also helps to have a buddy help hold the panel while you unbolt it.

Been there and done that a lot in my life for some reason...


:)
 
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