HOW-TO: Reload 2014V1 (New and Improved) like a Pro

[Dr_Pain]

I've read soooooo many threads on the 2014 V1 "New and Improved" Reload that my head is spinning. A lot of anecdotal and sometimes silly replies, and some legitimate complaints. It does seem as though that I was a lot more forgiving of the hiccup Reload sustained in its development. Obviously I would have more realistic expectations having tried so many "New and Improved" products over the years, and realizing the goals CarPro had for the product. It is a lot more concentrated and does have impressive qualities (and longevity), but I will agree that it did depart from the ease of application that Reload 2013 was known for. I did an extensive review of the product, trying to consolidate the information that was out there, but we still have confusions and application questions that remain. Here is my previous thread on the subject:

If you want to start all the way at the beginning, I will direct you to the wash/prep process, which I did as a "How-To" as well [URL="http://carproforum.com/showthread.php?1107-HOW-TO-Wash-you-car-like-a-PRO-(using-CarPro-Reset)"]HOW-TO: Wash you car like a PRO (using CarPro Reset) but if you just want to concentrate on the Reload portion, just read on! Please note that prep is the key for Reload's longevity!!

The subject vehicle is a 2013 Tuxedo Black Ford Raptor (my daily driver). If you've read the other "How-To", then you know I set out to be "unconventional" with this series of How-To's, and true to form, this How-To will also be unconventional. So what makes it unconventional??

1. The truck is black and will be Reloaded FULL STRENGTH!
2. Reload will be applied in FULL SUN!
3. Applied Reload THICK!

After a thorough cleaning with CarPro Reset (LINK HERE!), the truck was dried and allowed to sit in the sun as I was preparing myself to apply it. I know, a BLACK truck baking in the sun!!!

PRODUCTS USED

1. Reload 2014V1
2. CarPro Boa MF towel
3. Microfiber Madness Summit 800
4. Skyline Waffle Weave Drying Towel

One of the biggest complaints about the product was that it would leave some oily holograms. This is not to be confused with people leaving high spots. High spots are due to operator error whereas the oily holograms are due to left over carriers which were hard to completely remove from the paintwork. One of the remedy was to dilute the product, which from what I understand would decrease the "qualities" of the product, so I fundamentally REFUSED to do that (even though it is recommended on dark vehicles). So how does a Pro do it? I can tell you that this Pro got it done through experimentation. I ended up trying 4 different brands of microfiber towels and 3 different naps. I've experimented on all the proposed method and finally found one that was the absolute "end all" (at least for me). Here is, in a picture form, how it worked for me (remember this is FULL strength and in FULL sun!!)

Reload was applied THICK!, as you can see below. It was spread evently with the CarPro Boa and leveled properly to prevent any high spots (which are seen as darkened areas)

What do those "hologram" look like?? It was easy to see them but hard to capture on camera, except if I made the camera out of focus. These are examples of those oily residue

I did try several different MF (wet and dry), and different techniques to remove the oily residue, before settling on the easiest (for me, in FULL sun). I found that using a moderately damp high quality waffle weave using a slow light touch would remove the residue and followed with the Summit 800 to buff. Did it work?

​

I also found that using a high intensity light would also show those darn oily streaks, so here is a before and after!

So what kind of "glamor shots" can I share to convince you to use the product??

I know some of you questioned me using it on my matte black vinyl but....

Need more convincing?? How about some bead shots??

Now that is one happy truck!!

Thanks for reading. As usual, I welcome comment, questions and suggestions!

 

[Moldavite]

Fantastic & detail review!!!
Thanks for sharing

 

[VP Mark]

You worked in the sun? How was your truck not consumed in an a huge fireball and destroyed forever? Nice writeup. Maybe it will quell some of the direct sun fears out there.

 

[Angus]

Thanks for taking the time to experiment and write up your results! However I can't see any of the photos? Anyone else having that issue?

 

[EvolutionDetail]

I have a question, I believe i was probably the first person to bring up regards to the oily hologram with the 2014 Formula.

However last week was my 2nd car wash since i originally applied, and i still see some oil holo smearing on my paint. EVEN FRESH AFTER I JUST WASH MY VEHICLE.....?

Now i know that a damp towel would remove that oily holo, i just dont understand how after washing my car, they still exist?!?!?

PS: No pics here either, same goes for the CPF Link

 

[Chase.Detailing]

Angus - same problem!

 

[Dr_Pain]

DARN!!! I wonder if AG has a filter because I first posted the How-to (and hosted) the picture on the CPF. I did eliminate all the link to the CarPro Store.....hmmmm!

@ Evolution, 2 possible explainations:

#1 the MF absorption properties. I did try MULTIPLE MF and found that not all of them worked the same. MFM was a CLEAR winner. I was very dissapointed in Cobra (all variations of plush), and even tried Costco and Rag Company and both were YUK! (normally use that level quality on "beaters", fenders/suspensions, or engine bay)

#2 is the soap does not have enough surfactant power to break down the carrier "oils". Have you tried using Reset? In the video showing the prowess of Reload 2014, you can see they they use everything and anything, including APC and the product still works like a charm. This would come from the "solids" (since it is a nano-tech sealant) but I would doubt that a stout pH or surfactant bath would leave the carriers untouched (since in my case a wet MF towel resolved the issue).

I will say one more thing though, I did experiment a little beyond this How-to, and used a very diluted Reset solution to wet my waffle weave, and found that it worked even better. This was unfortunately done on the shaded side of the truck so did not want to report without further testing. But in all maybe having a surfactant in the water would help the breakdown/removal?!?

I will see about bringing the pictures to AG, give me a minute or two!

 

[Dr_Pain]

I am working on reconstructing the thread OP, hang on! I will repost the full writeup with the pictures as intended.

 

[MarkD51]

Odd, I see all the pics you originally posted.

 

[Dr_Pain]

I've read soooooo many threads on the 2014 V1 "New and Improved" Reload that my head is spinning. A lot of anecdotal and sometimes silly replies and some legitimate complaints. It does seem as though that I was a lot more forgiving of the hiccup Reload sustained in its development. Obviously I would have more realistic expectations having tried so many "New and Improved" products over the years, and realizing the goals CarPro had for the product. It is a lot more concentrated and does have impressive qualities (and longevity), but I will agree that it did depart from the ease of application that Reload 2013 was known for. I did an extensive review of the product, trying to consolidate the information that was out there, but we still have confusions and application questions that remain. Here is my previous thread on the subject: HOW-TO: Wash you car like a PRO (using CarPro Reset) but if you just want to concentrate on the Reload portion, just read on! Please note that prep is the key for Reload's longevity!!

The subject vehicle is a 2013 Tuxedo Black Ford Raptor (my daily driver). If you've read the other "How-To", then you know I set out to be "unconventional" with this series of How-To's, and true to form, this How-To will also be unconventional. So what makes it unconventional??

1. The truck is black and will be Reloaded FULL STRENGTH!
2. Reload will be applied in FULL SUN!
3. Applied Reload THICK!

After a thorough cleaning with CarPro Reset, the truck was dried and allowed to sit in the sun as I was preparing myself to apply it. I know, a BLACK truck baking in the sun!!!

PRODUCTS USED

1. Reload 2014V1
2. CarPro Boa MF towel
3. Microfiber Madness Summit 800
4. Skyline Waffle Weave Drying Towel

One of the biggest complaints about the product was that it would leave some oily holograms. This is not to be confused with people leaving high spots. High spots are due to operator error whereas the oily holograms are due to left over carriers which were hard to completely remove from the paintwork. One of the remedy was to dilute the product, which from what I understand would decrease the "qualities" of the product, so I fundamentally REFUSED to do that (even though it is recommended on dark vehicles). So how does a Pro do it? I can tell you that this Pro got it done through experimentation. I ended up trying 4 different brands of microfiber towels and 3 different naps. I've experimented on all the proposed method and finally found one that was the absolute "end all" (at least for me). Here is, in a picture form, how it worked for me (remember this is FULL strength and in FULL sun!!)

Reload was applied THICK!, as you can see below. It was spread evently with the CarPro Boa and leveled properly to prevent any high spots (which are seen as darkened areas)

What do those "hologram" look like?? It was easy to see them but hard to capture on camera, except if I made the camera out of focus. These are examples of those oily residue

I did try several different MF (wet and dry), and different techniques to remove the oily residue, before settling on the easiest (for me, in FULL sun). I found that using a moderatly damp high quality waffle weave using a slow light touch would remove the residue and followed with the Summit 800 to buff. Did it work?

​

I also found that using a high intensity light would also show those darn oily streaks, so here is a before and after!

So what kind of "glamor shots" can I share to convince you to use the product??

I know some of you questioned me using it on my matte black vinyl but....

Need more convincing?? How about some bead shots??

Now that is one happy truck!!

Thanks for reading. As usual, I welcome comment, questions and suggestions!

 

[Dr_Pain]

Odd, I see all the pics you originally posted.

You think that has to do with the fact that we are members of the CarPro Forums, Mark? Regardless, I uploaded the pics to my FB and reconstructed the original post for all to see.

I feel that it is important to make a distinction between the oily smear and the high spot, and I think this does help shed some light.

 

[Dr_Pain]

You worked in the sun? How was your truck not consumed in an a huge fireball and destroyed forever? Nice writeup. Maybe it will quell some of the direct sun fears out there.

Hey Mark, some of the "technical" explanations to debunk that myth were included in my other "How-To" in which I showed that it is possible to wash a black metallic flake truck in full mid day sun (at ~75 degrees) with no shade or cloud cover...... but I am not posting the "How-To" on AG because I seriously can't reconstruct the whole picture library :nomore:icture:. I guess they will have to go see it on the CarPro Forum LOL!

 

[Angus]

Oh yeah! Now those pictures look GREAT! :dblthumb2:

 

[EvolutionDetail]

Well, I am a carpro fan boy. The towels that touches my personal car is strictly MFM or the BOA....


The 1st wash i performed after applying reload, i used Carpro reset along with Adams Detail spray with the MFM Drying towels. ADS is usually my drying aid, however i noticed that ANY QD i used will not get rid of the oily holo. But the damp towel certainly took care of it.

Anyways last week i did my 2nd wash, foam cannoned with Adams soap and Reset in my 2 bucket wash. This time i used the OLD FORMULA Reload, to ensure i wont be getting the oily holo. However i still caught some on my paint, not as severe as my 1st wash, but it is there.

 

[runrun411]

Claude, great write up as always.

Often times I see on post how people use a product like reset or some sort of QD or spray wax to maintain a sealant. But it seems to me that the real way to know if it lasts or not is to use a RW that doesn't have any protective polymers or such.

 

[Audios S6]

Approximately how much reload did you use in this heavy application?

 

[Dr_Pain]

Well, I am a carpro fan boy. The towels that touches my personal car is strictly MFM or the BOA....


The 1st wash i performed after applying reload, i used Carpro reset along with Adams Detail spray with the MFM Drying towels. ADS is usually my drying aid, however i noticed that ANY QD i used will not get rid of the oily holo. But the damp towel certainly took care of it.

Anyways last week i did my 2nd wash, foam cannoned with Adams soap and Reset in my 2 bucket wash. This time i used the OLD FORMULA Reload, to ensure i wont be getting the oily holo. However i still caught some on my paint, not as severe as my 1st wash, but it is there.

I've tried to pull up some MSDS information on the Adam's Detail Spray you spoke of and can't seem to find one, so I can't see if they have some sort of gloss enhancer or other forms of additives that may not be playing well with the Reload.

I guess the same "additive" argument could play out with the soap combo you used!?!! I know (and use) Reset, and that soap is fantastic. I do have prior knowledge of certain CG foam soap that tend to leave "something" behind (just from my experience)

In any case, keep us updated on your experimentation!!

 

[Dr_Pain]

Claude, great write up as always.

Often times I see on post how people use a product like reset or some sort of QD or spray wax to maintain a sealant. But it seems to me that the real way to know if it lasts or not is to use a RW that doesn't have any protective polymers or such.

You took the words out of my mouth there brother!! (and you posted before I had a chance to finish typing that point)

Approximately how much reload did you use in this heavy application?

I knew that question was going to come up. I laid this baby thick (as you can see from the picture of the hood) and in all I would say that I had used a good 3-3.5oz.

 

[EvolutionDetail]

So u suggesting i should try use RESET as my soap entirely just to test it out.

I will this coming weekend, as i accidentally put some scratches on my CQUK.... so i have to polish it and re coat it.

 

[runrun411]

I guess the same "additive" argument could play out with the soap combo you used!?!! I know (and use) Reset, and that soap is fantastic. I do have prior knowledge of certain CG foam soap that tend to leave "something" behind (just from my experience)

​

I don't think there's any soaps that simply do "nothing" but clean. Either they strip LSP's or enhance LSP's. You have to use a RW for that nothing maintaining.