How to remove 2000 grit sanding marks completely?

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zckid

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Hello everyone!

I've read a few threads on wetsanding. Got some tips from it.

As the title says, How would you completely remove 2000 grit marks if this were the finest grit you had?

I'm using the rotary and LC CCS orange pad with Menz PG (the old one).

I must say that I'm having a hard time knocking the 2000 sanding marks with the orange pad. (maximum speed 3) btw, the 4' inch pad seems to do a better job than the 6.5 pad correcting scratch and sanding marks even if it doesn't completely remove them.

The finest grit here I can get is 2500 (mirka). it'll be in a few days though.

Feed back please

Do I need to increase the speed?

would the LC wool polishing pad be a better option at getting rid of the sanding marks?

Also, how long can you use a sanding paper?


looking forward to hear from you.

Many thanks.
:xyxthumbs:
Zaid
 
Last edited:
I've been successful using 3m rubbing compound with a rotary and a wool pad followed by 3m machine polish and a Meguiars yellow foam pad....
 
glen e said:
Wool....the only word you need
Click to expand...

Agree.

As for the sandpaper, you use it till it doesn't sand as well. You can tell when you grab a new piece and it "grips" a lot better then the old one. Basically you will feel the old piece not scratching and just sliding along the service.
 
Thanks for your sharing frined. Much appreciated:dblthumb2:
 
I've been using Fixer alot recently and knocked out 1500 grit scratches with it no problem.
 
I never had any problem using DA+orange pads+M105 to remove 2000 sanding marks, as long as using light and even pressure when sanding.

On soft one-step or CC, I can even remove 2000 with hand applicator and M105

Just my 0.02
 
Wool pad on a rotary buffer and a good compound.

What I always say and type goes like this,

Sanding is the easy part, that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting them out...


If it's a re-paint and the paint has dried and hardened then getting them out is the tricky part.

If it's factory paint then getting the sanding marks out will also be tricky as you don't have a lot of film build to work with and you don't want to get a panel to hot as you're buffing.

Read these articles from my article list if you haven't already...

Wet-sanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint


Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature


How long will a half sheet of wet/dry sandpaper last before it stops cutting and you need to replace it?


There's a slight difference between everyone's criteria for a good job.


My goal is always 100% removal of all sanding marks, whether they be tracers or pigtails. Most wetsand jobs I've inspected have sanding marks left behind, that is the sanding marks were not 100% removed.

Removing 100% can be difficult, it helps to have plenty of paint on the car to start with. Lighter colors can make it more difficult to see if you did in fact remove all the sanding marks, so look at the paint at an angle and/or in different light settings.

:)
 
CEE DOG said:
I've been using Fixer alot recently and knocked out 1500 grit scratches with it no problem.
Click to expand...

zckid said:
thanks for your reply Corey but what is Fixer?
Click to expand...

Fixer is CarPro's pad dependent polish. If you use a heavy cutting pad with it, it will cut heavy. If you use a lighter polishing pad with it, it will lightly polish :props:
 
shoeless89 said:
Fixer is CarPro's pad dependent polish. If you use a heavy cutting pad with it, it will cut heavy. If you use a lighter polishing pad with it, it will lightly polish :props:
Click to expand...
I got a ton of marring with Fixer. I'm sure I need to adjust my technique, though.
 
While reading this article
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...wet-sanding-fresh-paint-vs-factory-paint.html
I found a link to this video
How to Wash Your Car (ShowCar style!)
and this article
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/20007-new-detailing.html
which happens to be one of the neatest personal stories I've ever read.

Thanks for sharing Mike.
I don't recall reading those before, but I sure enjoyed them. While going to college, and yearning to learn all I can about creating a show car finish, I've learned a real lesson from a newbies perspective from that article...

...It's a long way to the top if you wanna Rock-N-Roll.
 
shoeless89 said:
Fixer is CarPro's pad dependent polish. If you use a heavy cutting pad with it, it will cut heavy. If you use a lighter polishing pad with it, it will lightly polish :props:
Click to expand...

thanks Shawn. much appreciated :dblthumb2:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Rotary and a wool pad.
Click to expand...

szjalo said:
I never had any problem using DA+orange pads+M105 to remove 2000 sanding marks, as long as using light and even pressure when sanding.

On soft one-step or CC, I can even remove 2000 with hand applicator and M105

Just my 0.02
Click to expand...

richy said:
Bingo. Use M105 and it will be done in seconds. Perfectly.
Click to expand...

Porsche Pilot said:
That seriously needs to be on a tshirt.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing friends. :thankyousign:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Wool pad on a rotary buffer and a good compound.

What I always say and type goes like this,

Sanding is the easy part, that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting them out...


If it's a re-paint and the paint has dried and hardened then getting them out is the tricky part.

If it's factory paint then getting the sanding marks out will also be tricky as you don't have a lot of film build to work with and you don't want to get a panel to hot as you're buffing.

Read these articles from my article list if you haven't already...

Wet-sanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint


Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature


How long will a half sheet of wet/dry sandpaper last before it stops cutting and you need to replace it?


There's a slight difference between everyone's criteria for a good job.


My goal is always 100% removal of all sanding marks, whether they be tracers or pigtails. Most wetsand jobs I've inspected have sanding marks left behind, that is the sanding marks were not 100% removed.

Removing 100% can be difficult, it helps to have plenty of paint on the car to start with. Lighter colors can make it more difficult to see if you did in fact remove all the sanding marks, so look at the paint at an angle and/or in different light settings.

:)
Click to expand...

thanks for sharing and helping Mike. U r a helping genius:iagree:

Actually I 1st wetsanded on a scrap hood after reading one of your posts. will go thru these threads too.


thanks so much :props:
 
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