How to remove orange peel by wet sanding - Advanced Detailing Class

Mike,
What backing pads are you using on the Rotary machines? The white multi-sized ones?

HUMP
 
dralan said:
Hi mike, for PC DA, what is your speed setting?
Click to expand...


Around the 5.0 speed setting.

Here's the deal... you need the sanding disc rotating otherwise it's just vibrating against the surface and while this can remove "some" paint you're goal is to get in and get the job done.

This type of work already takes a lot of time.

So you need to mark your backing plate like I show in this article,

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


Then monitor the line on the backing plate to make sure the sanding disc is rotating. If not, turn the speed up a little more.

What you don't want to do is be on the 6.0 setting as this starts to come close to grinding.


If you know 100% you have a TON of paint on the car and this means a custom paint job, then you run the Porter Cable 7424XP at the 6.0 setting using expert technique so you don't make a mistake. Other wise try to be around the 5.0 setting and take your time.

I edge everything with the 3" discs first and then knock out the major portion of a panel as this is a LOT safer.


Also for anyone reading this into the future, if you're using anything but the Porter Cable, so Griot's or Meguiar's then you need to do some testing and dial in a speed setting that maintains pad rotation but is not rotating the pad so fast that you're grinding the paint off.

Be careful my frined... words cannot describe the heart sinking feeling when you sand or buff through the clear and expose the basecoat.


Hope the above info helps....


:)
 
HUMP DIESEL said:
Mike,
What backing pads are you using on the Rotary machines? The white multi-sized ones?

HUMP
Click to expand...


If you're talking about the backing plates we used for my class that did the wetsand, cut and buff on the 1963 Impala SS, these ones....


Wetsanding_Orange_Peel_Class_026.jpg




Then "yes" these are the white flexible backing plates and my first pick when doing rotary work as they offer a lot of flex.

Here's my article on this topic with pictures and links to get them for your rotary buffer. I wrote this in 2011 and cited it as a trend... seems to be accurate...

Trends: Flexible Backing Plates


Here's another article on the same topic this shows the white flexible backing plates plus the Meguiar's flexible backing plates.... lots of pictures.

Trend: Flexible Backing Plates for Rotary Buffers


:xyxthumbs:
 
Mike, do I have to use a rotary buffer if I have gone over the car with 4000 paper? I sanded with 2000 and then went over the it again with 4000. Will the DA Buffer cut the 4000?
 
smudvapor said:
Mike, do I have to use a rotary buffer if I have gone over the car with 4000 paper?

I sanded with 2000 and then went over the it again with 4000.

Will the DA Buffer cut the 4000?
Click to expand...


The answer to your question is "yes kind of".

First: You don't know what you can do until you try. If the paint is really hard it will be more difficult to remove sanding marks than if the paint is in the medium to soft range.


Second: It's easy to remove high grit level sanding marks out of large flat section of paint but it becomes a lot more difficult and time-consuming to remove sanding marks on thin panels, in tight areas or next to raised body lines, edges and corners when using a free spinning dual action polishers.


Have you read my article,

The Rule of Thumb

RuleOfThumb.jpg





Third: My normal answer to this question goes like this,

It already takes a long time to sand down an entire car and then remove 100% of all the sanding marks using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a fast cutting compound. It will take even longer with any less powerful tool.



So the answer to your question is "yes - kind of". It depends on your willingness to spend time on the project.


Years ago when I worked for Meguiar's and ran the MeguiarsOnline.com detailing discussion forum I walked a guy through the process and helped him to wetsand a 1965 Mustang and then remove the sanding marks using only a Porter Cable dual action polishers. He painted the car himself as a gift to his son serving in the Army at the time of the Iraq war and he was retired so time was on his side.


If it was me.... I'd cut the paint using a wool pad on a FLEX PE14 and a high quality compound and then take over with a dual action polisher for the polishing steps.


I'm typing out a course description for just this thing in July.


:D
 
I didn't notice anything about wet sanding the taped areas. Do you do that by hand? I noticed in one of your posts you mentioned using a 3" for edging first. Do you do this for the body lines too?
 
I have tested numerous times and now have damp sanding kits available in 3 , 5, 6 inch discs for da sanding on my website djpavlica.com in stock and ready to ship. An entire 3M system. No rookie here.
 
AuroraDetailing said:
I didn't notice anything about wet sanding the taped areas. Do you do that by hand?
Click to expand...


Great question...

First I have an article on this topic here,

Perfectionist Detailing #2 - Sanding right up to an edge


I DO have a technique for this - after all the sanding is done, I remove the tape and then whatever my last sanding product is - I use the Scuff & Buff Technique and go over these areas. It works really well and it's very safe.

How-to Wetsand using the Scuff and Buff Technique - 1937 Ford Woody


AuroraDetailing said:
I noticed in one of your posts you mentioned using a 3" for edging first.

Do you do this for the body lines too?
Click to expand...

No. See what I wrote above.


:cheers:
 
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