How to remove Orange peel problem

R

Rifay

New member
Joined
Apr 16, 2016
Messages
75
Reaction score
0
Hlo sir ,


I have a orange peel in my Honda car. I don't know how to remove orange peel.


Can I prefer carpro orange peel valvet pad or 2500(or)3000grit wet sanding method ??? Which is one is good . If above correction is bad please tell me your grateful suggestion to me..


Paint is factory pint.


I am having GRIOT GARAGE 6" ROP & CARPRO FIXER and ESSENCE with megs MF CUTTING & FINISHING PAD..


Please help me
 
Rifay said:
Hlo sir ,


I have a orange peel in my Honda car. I don't know how to remove orange peel.


Can I prefer carpro orange peel valvet pad or 2500(or)3000grit wet sanding method ??? Which is one is good . If above correction is bad please tell me your grateful suggestion to me..


Paint is factory pint.


I am having GRIOT GARAGE 6" ROP & CARPRO FIXER and ESSENCE with megs MF CUTTING & FINISHING PAD..


Please help me
Click to expand...

First, we would need to know if it is factory (oem) paint or a respray. 2nd, I suggest getting a paint reading on the thickness to see how much paint you're dealing with and/or able to remove. 3rd, if you are suggesting "you don't know how to remove orange peel", unfortunately I will suggest you leave it to a professional.
 
Let me give you some good advice and leave it alone. Of all the OEM paints, Honda's paint is not only soft, but one of the thinnest. Unless this is going to be a show car, I would live with the OP.
 
Rsurfer said:
Let me give you some good advice and leave it alone. Of all the OEM paints, Honda's paint is not only soft, but one of the thinnest. Unless this is going to be a show car, I would live with the OP.
Click to expand...

agreed, and as much as i like honda (always been a fan of the vics) the paint jobs on them suck. definitely taking this in consideration when i buy a new car which most likely will not be a honda...
 
Rsurfer said:
Let me give you some good advice and leave it alone. Of all the OEM paints, Honda's paint is not only soft, but one of the thinnest. Unless this is going to be a show car, I would live with the OP.
Click to expand...

Best advice you'll get.

Live with it or trade it for a car brand that actually sprays some paint on their vehicles. Down here in Florida the two car manufacturers we see with the quickest paint failure are Honda/Acura and Toyota. Civics, Accords, RLX's and Camry's and Corolla's big time. Hood, trunk and rear part of the roof. My buddy had an Civic SI and within 18 months the paint was compromised. He just bought his son a Focus and his gf bought her son a new black Civic and he detailed both of them and he said the Honda paint was junk. I had a 2003 Xterra non garage kept for 12 years, zero paint failure. I used a sealant on it every 8-10 months or so, nothing special and the paint was rock solid when I traded it in.
 
I will voice another vote for leaving the orange peal as-is. I don't mean to point fingers and pick on them, but Honda's choice and application of paintwork is not up to snuff and seems to be more likely to suffer issues sooner than other manufactures' offerings. No paint job is "prefect," but I'll take a Dodge any day of the week partly because their paintwork is proven to me to be consistent and predictable. This is just my opinion, and others will likely have their own opinion, so don't interpret this as gospel.
 
I agree with all the above.But carpro denim pads work pretty good if you ever catch yourself in a similar scenario.
 
GSKR said:
I agree with all the above.But carpro denim pads work pretty good if you ever catch yourself in a similar scenario.
Click to expand...

Carpro denim pad is good to remove the Orange Peel in OEM paint ???
 
Rifay said:
Carpro denim pad is good to remove the Orange Peel in OEM paint ???
Click to expand...

You seem to be missing the point...
You do not have enough clearcoat from factory to safel reduce the orange peel appearnace AND STILL LEAVE ENOUGH BEHIND TO RETAIN THE INTEGRITY OF THE PAINT SYSTEM.

Secondly think for a second what you are doing, you would be shaving the tops of each crest of clear coat until its height matches the lvel of the lows... how you get there is only important during the removal process (in terms of ease and accurate material removal control)..
But the method is irrelevent in terms of the end results function as a durable paint system....

IF you choose to ignore this advice provided so far, then acknowledge your risk and then IF you elect to proceed then i would suggest wet sanding with 2k and 3k on a firm foam block simply because the hand removal allows a more accurate fel for material removal and thre fore less likely to strike through relative to a damp sand with DA or Denim pad on a rotary....
Also it takes a lot tof work to subsequently recover the 3-4k sanding back to full gloss...

Your call...
 
@Rifay. Please come back and give us an update on your short term visual results if you decide to go ahead and remove the orange peel on your car.
 
shadwell said:
You seem to be missing the point...
You do not have enough clearcoat from factory to safel reduce the orange peel appearnace AND STILL LEAVE ENOUGH BEHIND TO RETAIN THE INTEGRITY OF THE PAINT SYSTEM.

Secondly think for a second what you are doing, you would be shaving the tops of each crest of clear coat until its height matches the lvel of the lows... how you get there is only important during the removal process (in terms of ease and accurate material removal control)..
But the method is irrelevent in terms of the end results function as a durable paint system....

IF you choose to ignore this advice provided so far, then acknowledge your risk and then IF you elect to proceed then i would suggest wet sanding with 2k and 3k on a firm foam block simply because the hand removal allows a more accurate fel for material removal and thre fore less likely to strike through relative to a damp sand with DA or Denim pad on a rotary....
Also it takes a lot tof work to subsequently recover the 3-4k sanding back to full gloss...

Your call...
Click to expand...

:iagree:


Rifay, do you have a Paint thickness gauge to determine how thin your paint really is?
 
First thing I would do is get an estimate from a body shop on how much it will cost to fix the damage.

Now you know what the high risk is.

If it is a small panel you can respray with rattle can then go ahead and learn.

Cost is can of colur and can of clear + time.

Wet sanding is tough on factory paint, without burning through.

2000 or 3000 grit Trizact pads by hand would be the starting point.

The clear is only approx. 1/3 of the total thickness.

I tried on small panels first and had little success.

You can try compounding to remove but I have not had much luck with it and it takes a lot of patience.

My advice leave it or learn for cost of body shop fix.7
 
Crispy said:
First thing I would do is get an estimate from a body shop on how much it will cost to fix the damage.

Now you know what the high risk is.

If it is a small panel you can respray with rattle can then go ahead and learn.

Cost is can of colur and can of clear + time.

Wet sanding is tough on factory paint, without burning through.

2000 or 3000 grit Trizact pads by hand would be the starting point.

The clear is only approx. 1/3 of the total thickness.

I tried on small panels first and had little success.

You can try compounding to remove but I have not had much luck with it and it takes a lot of patience.

My advice leave it or learn for cost of body shop fix.7
Click to expand...

Thanks .

Shall I try extra layering of clear coat above factory paint clear coat???

Can I do this one ???
 
Rifay said:
Only clear is enough or base coat is needed??
Click to expand...

Are you thinking about adding clear so you can safely wet sand? If so it won't work, as you need to get to the damage area thus removing the clear you just put on. You are back to square one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top