How to remove tiny pinhole pits in glass windows using a rotary buffer

My windshield is in desperate need. Since this project is very product dependent... do we have any word on when said products will be back in stock, or 2. if there are any suitable substitutes to do the job??
 
great thread

I ordered the DP high performance glass restorer just the other day. Could this be used in place of the diamondite products to remove the pitting? or is the DP glass restorer only chemical cleaners designed to remove the water stains? (the water stains were really the reason for purchase)

Any pad recommendation for the DP glass restorer?

edit: just noticed this was in the diamondite forum. sorry. just trying to compare another glass polishing product that AG carries
 
Gurge said:
great thread

I ordered the DP high performance glass restorer just the other day. Could this be used in place of the diamondite products to remove the pitting? or is the DP glass restorer only chemical cleaners designed to remove the water stains? (the water stains were really the reason for purchase)

Any pad recommendation for the DP glass restorer?

edit: just noticed this was in the diamondite forum. sorry. just trying to compare another glass polishing product that AG carries
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Bump for feedback on this one. I have everything except for a compound product. Since the Resurfacing Creme restock continues to be a mystery, it's either going to be Diamonfast cerium oxide, or the above mentioned DP is it can be used.

Edit: Appears that the DP can be substituted for the Diamondite polish only, it doesn't abrade.
 
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Timely post...

I checked with Jason today to see if he's found anymore bottles of our resurfacing creme and he handed me two bottles, neither quite full. So I'm going to send you one of the bottles and Luke aka 83hurstguy the other bottle.

Besides that the other option is to locate bulk Cerium Oxide on the Internet and order some and then make your own slurry using basically just some water.

Remember my cautions in the beginning of this thread about how messing buffing with cerium oxide glass polishes can be and take the necessary precautions.

As for me... I COVER EVERYTHING UP!

LOL :laughing: as it's kind of messy...

Here you can see the two bottles Jason gave me in front of my monitor as I typed this reply...

Please e-mail me your shipping address and I'll get your package processed today.

twobottlesofgp.jpg



:)
 
Mike, have you ever used Rhodite? I noticed it's not in the store, so I wasn't sure if it's been tried or not. I've never personally used it but saw it on one of those weekend car shows.
 
JBL said:
Mike, have you ever used Rhodite? I noticed it's not in the store, so I wasn't sure if it's been tried or not. I've never personally used it but saw it on one of those weekend car shows.
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Not that I know of...

I've tested unmarked glass polishes for evaluation and benchmarking against known products, but I don't always know what the product is or it's origins.



:)
 
Mike

I have the glass polishing pads and the Diamondite Restorer, what speed setting should I use? Wish I could find some of the Resurfacing Creme!
 
Mike is it possible to use any of this stuff with a PC DA polisher? (non XP) or a cordless drill that can be plugged in? I was going to buy a kit for drill use but a lot of them say to set to 1800 RPM for instance like you used on the rotary, but my drill just has a trigger and clutch resistance settings. I did recently inherit an old fully electric drill but I suspect it does not have speed settings either.
 
flyinion said:
Mike is it possible to use any of this stuff with a PC DA polisher? (non XP) or a cordless drill that can be plugged in? I was going to buy a kit for drill use but a lot of them say to set to 1800 RPM for instance like you used on the rotary, but my drill just has a trigger and clutch resistance settings. I did recently inherit an old fully electric drill but I suspect it does not have speed settings either.
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Sure!

If all you're wanting to do is to remove things like the road film, water spots and other gunk that builds up on the glass over time a PC or a drill will work.

For actually abrading glass in a way to remove things like scuffs and shallow scratches, you really need the power of a drill. I think I covered this in my first post of this thread.

Here's a feature I shot with Bryan Fuller on using a PC to machine polish glass using this kit. You can't see what we could see or feel in the studio but this truck has been parked outside since it was purchased new and before we could use it for the glass polishing feature I had to clean up the hood so it looked good on TV

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjJSSqORjKA&hd=1]How to clean and polish glass with Diamondite by machine - YouTube[/video]


The kit we used is not for removing scratches though... at this time we are out of stock of the Glass Resurfacing Creme. I sent out my only two bottles to the other two guys also posting to this thread with glass issues.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Sure!

If all you're wanting to do is to remove things like the road film, water spots and other gunk that builds up on the glass over time a PC or a drill will work.

For actually abrading glass in a way to remove things like scuffs and shallow scratches, you really need the power of a drill. I think I covered this in my first post of this thread.

Here's a feature I shot with Bryan Fuller on using a PC to machine polish glass using this kit. You can't see what we could see or feel in the studio but this truck has been parked outside since it was purchased new and before we could use it for the glass polishing feature I had to clean up the hood so it looked good on TV

How to clean and polish glass with Diamondite by machine - YouTube


The kit we used is not for removing scratches though... at this time we are out of stock of the Glass Resurfacing Creme. I sent out my only two bottles to the other two guys also posting to this thread with glass issues.


:)
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Yeah I'm not in a rush, but I think I'd need the stuff you used in this project because what I'm interested in fixing is the same kind of pinhole pits that build up over the years. I don't have any scratches, and since I clayed the windows last spring I have minimal water spots. It's just full of the pits. Would that creme work with a drill or DA once it's back in stock?

I do have a "future brother-in-law" who recently bought a rotary for polishing his canoe so I could probably borrow that. It's some company I'd never heard of (and can't remember now), nothing that's sold around here as a detailing device. I want to say it was "something" Drill Company or something like that.
 
OK, dove in this afternoon. Focusing on a test area, have hit it twice and am not making much progress. Mike, how much time did you spend on each section? My first pass I was obviously too delicate as I wanted to be sure I wasn't going to do more harm than good.

2nd run though, I spent a good 3-4 minutes on the same section with enough pressure that my arm was giving out (1500 rpm on the Makita). Results - still many pits, actually can't even tell if I put a dent in any of them. Do I just need to keep at it??
 
courtdale said:
OK, dove in this afternoon. Focusing on a test area, have hit it twice and am not making much progress. Mike, how much time did you spend on each section? My first pass I was obviously too delicate as I wanted to be sure I wasn't going to do more harm than good.

2nd run though, I spent a good 3-4 minutes on the same section with enough pressure that my arm was giving out (1500 rpm on the Makita). Results - still many pits, actually can't even tell if I put a dent in any of them. Do I just need to keep at it??
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You need to get heat in there to work for you, without overheating it to the point of creating distortion or ruining your glass (any experts feel free to correct me if wrong). It's high speed and pressure, and it does tear your arms up pretty good if you have an office job (like me, haha). I have 3-4 passes on my windshield to remove the hazing, the glass was definitely warm, and I went through a lot of water and polish. If the pits are deep, you are going to have a hard time removing them.

I posted an update in my other thread a bit ago: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/diamondite/38072-swirls-glass-2.html#post565130
 
83hurstguy said:
You need to get heat in there to work for you, without overheating it to the point of creating distortion or ruining your glass (any experts feel free to correct me if wrong). It's high speed and pressure, and it does tear your arms up pretty good if you have an office job (like me, haha). I have 3-4 passes on my windshield to remove the hazing, the glass was definitely warm, and I went through a lot of water and polish. If the pits are deep, you are going to have a hard time removing them.

I posted an update in my other thread a bit ago: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/diamondite/38072-swirls-glass-2.html#post565130
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Hmm, they're deep, looks like I'll have to take of the skirt and get in there again next weekend.
 
Hey Mike,
I have a bottle of diamondite glass restorer, can this be used with the glass cutting pads to cut and polish the windshield? Do you have a recommendation for something to seal afterwards?
 
No pictures of the glass from the inside? My van, mustang and grand marquise all have pitting and it drives me nuts!
 
Looks like mega-labor. I am VERY impressed. Just last week I had a new window put in one of my cars. GREAT WORK!
 
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