How to revive water beading of Opti-Coat?

Since it's been 6+ months (including not being washed the entire Winter) the Coating is in need of a good cleaning---claying and a mild polish should do the trick.

I disagree with this. If it was coated with a nano-ceramic, clay and polish should be un-necessary.
 
I disagree with this.

If it was coated with a nano-ceramic,
clay and polish should be un-necessary.
Disagree all you want.

Also: Guess what?
Optimum's Coatings are not nano-ceramic. :)

Bob
 
Disagree all you want.

Also: Guess what?
Optimum's Coatings are not nano-ceramic. :)

Bob

Just curious why you think IronX and Reset wouldn't do the trick? If it doesn't what about trying Optimum Poli-Seal?
 
Some car soaps contain "spot free rinse" type additives that can temporarily suppress water beading right after a wash.

Quoting my own post, pathetic, but are you sure you are not beading water? With some soaps, your car will not bead water right after washing. The next day, it beads water again.
 
Just curious why you think IronX and Reset wouldn't do the trick?
Excuse me...:)
Where did I state that I thought IronX and Reset
wouldn't do the trick?

If it doesn't what about trying Optimum Poli-Seal?
I don't see why this AIO would not work to clean-up
Opti-Coatings.

However:
The OP requested suggestions for non-abrasive products.
That's why I suggested the below products of OPT Inc.
For the record:
______________________________________________

IMHO:
If dissatisfied with the lack of beading; but wanting it to "re-appear"; yet not wanting to utilize any of my previous "cures"; then (and against my better judgement) use one of these methods:

•Optimum's
-Opti-Seal
-Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer
-Spray Wax


•Contact OPT (Dr. G)

Bob
 
Quoting my own post, pathetic, but are you sure you are not beading water? With some soaps, your car will not bead water right after washing. The next day, it beads water again.

I'm pretty sure it's not beading at all, not just after the wash. But thanks for the tip.
 
Excuse me...:)
Where did I state that I thought IronX and Reset
wouldn't do the trick?

Bob

You are right you didn't say it, but I assumed it since you suggested claying and polishing.

Actually what I am leaning towards now is trying TRIX instead of Iron X to cover all my bases in terms of decon. Plan as of now:

Carpro reset wash.
Trix
Another carpro reset wash.
Possibly clay
(recommendations on a good mild clay?)
 
There was a thread very similar to this one about 6-8 months ago. Car hadn't been washed etc etc. it ended up taking clay to get down to Opti-coat. I would definitely try non abrasive fist, but keep in mind you might end up having to use clay...
 
There was a thread very similar to this one about 6-8 months ago. Car hadn't been washed etc etc. it ended up taking clay to get down to Opti-coat. I would definitely try non abrasive fist, but keep in mind you might end up having to use clay...
Yeah it's no biggie if I have to clay I was just would prefer not to, because it's one less step and also no chance of marring etc.
 
So your recommendations for Clay is basically every bar that AG sells, but a preference toward the Meguiars kit??
I like that Meguiar's clay kit (it's got the good ol' QD).

I figured if this particular suggestion of mine
didn't appeal to you:
I provided a quick-clay-link...So picking another one of your liking, from the AGO store's myriad clay selection, would be facilitated.

Bob
 
I'm not exactly sure if this will help, but I put cquartz uk on my truck and for some strange reason the beading and sheeting dies out every week on the sides of my cowl hood every week or so. Nothing I wash with revives it once it stops, but after a wash, while it is still wet, I do two sprays of eraser on each side, and then dry the hood and it beads like crazy again.
 
I'm not exactly sure if this will help, but I put cquartz uk on my truck and for some strange reason the beading and sheeting dies out every week on the sides of my cowl hood every week or so. Nothing I wash with revives it once it stops, but after a wash, while it is still wet, I do two sprays of eraser on each side, and then dry the hood and it beads like crazy again.

That leads me to believe something in your shampoo is remaining on the surface and eraser is removing it... what shampoo are you using?
 
I'm not exactly sure if this will help, but I put cquartz uk on my truck and for some strange reason the beading and sheeting dies out every week on the sides of my cowl hood every week or so. Nothing I wash with revives it once it stops, but after a wash, while it is still wet, I do two sprays of eraser on each side, and then dry the hood and it beads like crazy again.

Is the cowl painted or a different material? If the latter, is there a product being applied to the cowl that may be migrating to the paint and causing the issue?
 
@Zmcgovern45 I have used reset, hyperwash, Adams, and dp extreme foam, and I've had the same results with all of them. @ Dan K it's a one piece steel hood and it was painted at the same time as the rest of the truck with the same paint and everything. The cowl portion in the center beads perfectly, but the flat part of the hood on either side loses it. It still feels slick but water just sticks to it.
 
I'm not exactly sure if this will help, but I put cquartz uk on my truck and for some strange reason the beading and sheeting dies out every week on the sides of my cowl hood every week or so. Nothing I wash with revives it once it stops, but after a wash, while it is still wet, I do two sprays of eraser on each side, and then dry the hood and it beads like crazy again.
@Zmcgovern45 I have used reset, hyperwash, Adams, and dp extreme foam, and I've had the same results with all of them. @ Dan K it's a one piece steel hood and it was painted at the same time as the rest of the truck with the same paint and everything. The cowl portion in the center beads perfectly, but the flat part of the hood on either side loses it. It still feels slick but water just sticks to it.
You probably should have went with
one of Optimum's Coatings. :D


Bob
 
I am going to try opticoat on the polished aluminum on my new trailer, but I must say, I don't regret the cquartz at all. I can't compare it to opticoat yet, but I must say it is the slickest thing I've ever felt on paint and the three cars I put it on literally rinse clean. It was well worth it in my opinion.
 
I had my car professionaly Opti-coated a tad over a year ago. Car is outside 24/7, was not washed all winter and it's not beading at all now after doing a standard hand wash using Mothers California Gold car wash. Car must have a film on it that this wash isn't taking off. Suggestions?

I would agree with what Zach has already recommended. A good wash followed by IronX and TarX/Tarminator and then another quick wash. Usually that is enough to bring things back to life. I wouldn't clay until after a chemical decon has been done first. If after the chemical decon things still aren't beading then you may want to consider claying and using an AIO "lightly", like Poli-Seal.

Coatings still require regular washing. Do this and they will bead for years, neglect it and in just a few months beading can start to fail. OCP just passed the 2 year mark on my current car and it's still going strong, even with some neglect last winter.


Rasky
 
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