How to seal a brand new car?

[VISITOR]

there's no sense in doing a 100% (or close to it) paint correction with winter coming upon us as the car will be exposed to rain, mud, sand, etc,. i would clean up the paint and focus on the protection aspect for now...

 

[ski2]

DG 105 is cleaner/polish, not really a sealant. According to this product link on autogeek (Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) # 105) it provides tough coating.
It doesn't even use word "sealant". So, if I was to pick on words then DG 105 is not even a sealant to begin with.

And the link I posted about Teflon , it's about Teflon Coating.

But all the semantics aside I am pretty sure my point was clear: what polish/sealant/coating (whatever it might be called or is) lasts 10 years, or even 5 years? Notice that I don't say "nothing will last 10 years as protectant on a clear coat" , but I am just a bit skeptical and curious at the same time and ask what is it out there that has such durability? Some of the stuff I heard about (including what is talked about in Teflon Coating thread) comes with "x years of warranty", but that doesn't mean it really lasts that long. What they really sell is x number of years of free wash and sealing/waxing/coating. So, you drive 6-8 months, the product wears off, you go to claim your warranty and they just reapply product for you and give it back to you "treated".


Now, I am not an expert in polishing, waxing and coating (If I were why would I ask for advise here), but somehow I am extremely skeptical of any claim about a protective coat that can last 10 years.

Finally, with DG stating that their own water stain removers won't remove DG 105, which claim should I give more weight to? Yours (that it takes seconds to remove with the polish and DA) or their own?
I understand they (or their distributors) may have a motive to overinflate the durability and strength of their polish/sealant, but almost any sealant has prime purpose of "sealing" what is underneath. Why would anyone want to "seal" imperfection, even if for 6 or less months?

My information is accurate and informative. DG 105 is a sealant with cleaners in it. OptiCoat 2.0 will last multiple years. These are accepted and demonstrated facts in the detailing community. I've given you a link to articles that will help you understand. Yet it appears you refuse to do some additional reading and continue to question the information and advice given. So, good luck!!

 

[carenthusiast]

Yes:
You've piqued my interest by first saying: "black clearcoat";
and next: that you could hire a Professional Detailer to correct your vehicle's paint, and then apply a film layer of a protection product, such as Opti-coat...
for the same cost as if you were to buy a HF DA, some pads and product...and do it yourself.

Yes:
I've hand polished vehicles with some modicum of success before, i.e.: I was satisfied.
Were there any remaining paint "blemishes"? Possibly.
But I commenced to apply either a wax/sealant (to act as the sacrificial barrier for the just polished clear coat paint) anyway!

Yes:
I'd enjoy sharing the products/"tools" I used in the above example.
But to avoid any redundancies (and, possibly, be 'shot down' as others have been)
I'd first enjoy hearing what products/"tools" you have on hand.
Thanks.



Bob

Bob , there isn't such a thing as , literally, black clear coat. But there is black paint with the clear coat over it. I made sure to mention that the paint has clear coat (though anyone would assume the same, since all new cars come with the clear coat). And I emphasized that it is (referring to paint, obviously) is black. I think it was important to mention it. Manufacturers put clear coat on all paint colors, but it is the dark (and especially the black) painted cars that show the swirl marks and fine scratches the most. I was certain that anyone reading what I wrote would understand the intent and meaning, but I may have erred about it, so this is the clarification.


If I was to hire professional detailer and pay $300-$500 I would have them do everything, not just 'paint correction' , with me doing the sealing.

Again, I am not sure whether you have read my earlier posts or may be you did but something wasn't stated clearly enough, but my thought process is straightforward enough:

I want to spend as little as practically feasible. I have my bare hands, orbital buffer and rotary buffer (latter probably of no use since mine is a new car). I wanted advise from experienced car detailers: what products to buy to get paint corrected and sealed? What methods of application (provided I have what I have) work the best?

I am not going to go "cheapest" route and try to save $20 bucks on a product then do $10K damage on my paint, so I don't want to buy mediocre products just because they are cheap.

That being said I don't want to spend too much on a sealant or wax or polish or buy another $300 equipment. The reason is: once I hit that mark then it becomes more practical to hire a detailer than do it on my own.

I have explained it all on my previous posts, I am surprised that you missed it but in any event I tried to clarify it so that there would be no confusion or misunderstanding from now on.


Best regards,

Carenthusiast

 

[carenthusiast]

My information is accurate and informative. DG 105 is a sealant with cleaners in it. OptiCoat 2.0 will last multiple years. These are accepted and demonstrated facts in the detailing community. I've given you a link to articles that will help you understand. Yet it appears you refuse to do some additional reading and continue to question the information and advice given. So, good luck!!

ski, while I thank you for participating in this discussion, I must once again remind you that I did not ask for links to entire collection of all the articles the OP (in the post you linked) ever wrote. He even explained there that his main purpose was to link ALL of the articles he ever wrote and assemble them all in one page.

Now, if I needed instructions to use specific functions within Microsoft Word document for typing a letter why would I want to go over entire 2000 pages long Microsoft Windows 7 book to find what I need?

Most importantly, I have done my share of reading in past and found out the hard way that unless you want to go to college , taking that "let me go and read material about it" route is not always the most practical one, and for two main reasons:

1. If you have a custom project at hand you will have very specific goals and resources at hand which the writer of article can't possibly be aware of. How would article writer know that I have rotary buffer and orbital but don't want to buy DA or spend over $200 on products? How would he know that my rationale is "if I must spend more then I will hire professional detailer'? How would writer of the article know that I am not looking to buy cheap products either? How would he know that my car is brand new and has only fine scratches and swirl marks, but no holograms or any deep scratches that your fingernail can get caught in and that it passes "sandwich bag" test with flying colors?
Chances are the articles posted are great but not custom fit my my individual purposes.

2. Another problem with online articles in general ( I discovered this when I was learning the basics of search engine optimization ) is that they are written with two fold goal: one , and the obvious, of course is to address the issue of the title in the article. But another is to write something that will be properly indexed by Google algorithms and give the site high ranking in searches. Sometimes 500 words will be expanded to make article look solid and recognized by Google, while the truly informative part could be summarized in just 100 words and so on. It is too much of information to explain (and I have only elementary levels of knowledge of SEO) in a single post, besides it's irrelevant to this thread, but there is a reason why I ask question of experts rather than read all that has ever been written and posted on net.
(It seems that I have to explain every single thing to justify the reason why I posted my questions on this thread and why I still hope to hear straightforward answers to questions asked.)

If you don't want to , don't know or can't answer the questions asked then that's fine, I am not forcing anyone to take part and give me answers. You can simply ignore this thread.
But there is no need to inject "I gave you what you need" but "you refuse to...." etc etc etc.
really , no need for that.
We are adults, let's use some common sense and treat each other with respect and dignity.

I wish you have a great Sunday and all the best in coming Holidays.

Regards,

Carenthusiast

 

[jankerson]

The biggest problem with owning a black car is that for the most part it's a full time job if it's not garage kept and or it's a daily driver.

That's if one wants to keep it looking good..

 

[cleanmycorolla]

Read More

Write Less

:iagree:

 

[carenthusiast]

there's no sense in doing a 100% (or close to it) paint correction with winter coming upon us as the car will be exposed to rain, mud, sand, etc,. i would clean up the paint and focus on the protection aspect for now...

VISITOR,

I think DG105 is what I will use for sealing, sounds good to me. And if the HF DA is good enough for the task, I may give it a shot at $60. And Megs M205 , to correct the paint of course.

Unless I get some better suggestions I am likely to follow these steps (bucket wash with dish detergent, apply M205 with DA and follow with the coat of DG105).

The reason I want to do a decent correction before sealing is that sealant (by definition) protects with durability what is underneath it. To seal imperfection , while protecting the paint from further damage, would be somewhat counterproductive because it would also seal the imperfect looks (even if for just a few months, until next polish or mud/snow/salt etc.).

I have a pretty good chance of doing a good paint correction, with right products and some clear instructions on methods that I could use.


Thank you,

Carenthusiast

 

[jankerson]

VISITOR,

I think DG105 is what I will use for sealing, sounds good to me. And if the HF DA is good enough for the task, I may give it a shot at $60. And Megs M205 , to correct the paint of course.

Unless I get some better suggestions I am likely to follow these steps (bucket wash with dish detergent, apply M205 with DA and follow with the coat of DG105).

The reason I want to do a decent correction before sealing is that sealant (by definition) protects with durability what is underneath it. To seal imperfection , while protecting the paint from further damage, would be somewhat counterproductive because it would also seal the imperfect looks (even if for just a few months, until next polish or mud/snow/salt etc.).

I have a pretty good chance of doing a good paint correction, with right products and some clear instructions on methods that I could use.


Thank you,

Carenthusiast

Sounds like you might be confused on what a sealant is....

All a sealant is really is synthetic wax because they can't call it a wax.....

That is however different than a coating...

 

[carenthusiast]

The biggest problem with owning a black car is that for the most part it's a full time job if it's not garage kept and or it's a daily driver.

That's if one wants to keep it looking good..

Fortunately, my car is garage kept ( I have a parking garage which protects from rain, snow and other hazards under the sun).

I really want to reduce that "full time" responsibility, that's one of the reasons I want to polish and seal it now, so I can get a little rest.

Even a regular bucket wash with over the counter carnauba wax can make a big difference in maintaining the appearance, but polsih and seal (done right) should yield even better results.


Thank you,

Carenthusiast

 

[carenthusiast]

Sounds like you might be confused on what a sealant is....

All a sealant is really is synthetic wax because they can't call it a wax.....

That is however different than a coating...

No, I am not confused about it. Confusion is partially generated by use of words (including by manufacturers of products). If you read description of DG 105 there is hardly a word about it being a sealant , it's called everything BUT a sealant ( a polish, a polymer wax, cleaner, a product providing a tough, synthetic coat etc).
With product description itself not being precise in use of proper word to describe what product is, it is destined to generate even more confusion when someone refers to it.
It could be called a "sealant" for all practical purposes , but you can also say it is a cleaner, a polish, a polymer wax (all in one) and that it will give a tough coat to your clear coat. And either way you will be correct.

But, the way I process information, the semantics are irrelevant to me. I have clear goal and some understanding of what the product is going to do (based on what I have read about it, including in this forum) and that's all that matters to me.
Now that I know what I will use as a final product, I have no need to learn how Longman or Duragloss define one or another word used.



Thank you,

Carenthusiast

 

[FUNX650]

Usually I'll quote someone to ensure there's no misunderstanding.
Should have continued that tradition when originally replying to your thread.
That won't happen again.

TO WIT:

Bob , there isn't such a thing as , literally, black clear coat. But there is black paint with the clear coat over it. I made sure to mention that the paint has clear coat

The below is from your OP (#1):

Now, let me summarize what I have and what I need.

1. I have a new car with black clear coat (has fine scratches and swirls, but no holograms or some obvious to untrained eye defects).

Carenthusiast

(though anyone would assume the same, since all new cars come with the clear coat)<<<Wrong.

^^^No...Not all vehicles come from the OEM's sprayed with a BC/CC paint system!!^^^

And I emphasized that it is (referring to paint, obviously) is black. I think it was important to mention it.

I was certain that anyone reading what I wrote would understand the intent and meaning, but I may have erred about it, so this is the clarification.

^^^Thanks for this particular clarification!^^^

Manufacturers put clear coat on all paint colors,<<<Sorry...Partially wrong!

^^^All paint colors do not have clearcoat paint as part of their paint systems.^^^

but it is the dark (and especially the black) painted cars that show the swirl marks and fine scratches the most.

^^^Something :iagree: with.^^^

If I was to hire professional detailer and pay $300-$500 I would have them do everything, not just 'paint correction' , with me doing the sealing.

I want to spend as little as practically feasible. I have my bare hands, orbital buffer and rotary buffer (latter probably of no use since mine is a new car). I wanted advise from experienced car detailers: what products to buy to get paint corrected and sealed? What methods of application (provided I have what I have) work the best?

I am not going to go "cheapest" route and try to save $20 bucks on a product then do $10K damage on my paint, so I don't want to buy mediocre products just because they are cheap.

That being said I don't want to spend too much on a sealant or wax or polish or buy another $300 equipment. The reason is: once I hit that mark then it becomes more practical to hire a detailer than do it on my own.

And from some of your previous posts:

if I have to spent $100-$200 on each product and two days to do the job I may as well find a $400-$500 local elite-car detailer and have someone else do the job.
Carenthusiast

I would rather retain professional detailer: it would cost me less (in time, effort , money) to pay $300-$500 to someone else than do it on my own.

^^^That's what I was including when I was alluding to the fact that finding an "elite detailer/professional detailer"^^^
to detail your vehicle in that kind of price-range may not come to fruition. I know I wouldn't!!

You are completely right about years of my detailing experience. In fact, I posted at various times that I have two decades of experience detailing my cars

This being said, myself detailing my cars for 20 years does not make an expert of me who knows how to handle a brand new clear coat that needs very minor but important correction before applying a seal.

Again, I am not sure whether you have read my earlier posts or may be you did but something wasn't stated clearly enough, but my thought process is straightforward enough

I have explained it all on my previous posts, I am surprised that you missed it but in any event I tried to clarify it so that there would be no confusion or misunderstanding from now on.

You still have not supplied a list of your products/pads/etc. that you have on hand.
And with the number of years you've been detailing:
It's confusing, to me, to the reason(s) why should not be able to supply this information.
Surely you must have some of these supplies readily available, and at your disposal.


Best regards,

Bob

 

[carenthusiast]

Usually I'll quote someone to ensure there's no misunderstanding.
Should have continued that tradition when originally replying to your thread.
That won't happen again.

TO WIT:

The below is from your OP (#1):




^^^No...Not all vehicles come from the OEM's sprayed with a BC/CC paint system!!^^^


^^^Thanks for this particular clarification!^^^



^^^All paint colors do not have clearcoat paint as part of their paint systems.^^^


^^^Something :iagree: with.^^^


^^^That's what I was including when I was alluding to the fact that finding an "elite detailer/professional detailer"^^^
to detail your vehicle in that kind of price-range may not come to fruition. I know I wouldn't!!



You still have not supplied a list of your products/pads/etc. that you have on hand.
And with the number of years you've been detailing:
It's confusing, to me, to the reason(s) why should not be able to supply this information.
Surely you must have some of these supplies readily available, and at your disposal.


Best regards,

Bob

And your point (or question) is?

P.S. Below is my OP, without words and phrases taken out of context.

I have a black car and noticed a lot of fine scratches and swirl marks which , I assume, were left during the delivery process when car was washed and wiped in dealer's shop.

This thread is not "dealer bashing" thread, rather I want to ask experts what is the best way to remove fine scratches and give the longest protection to a car I can.

I will be doing all work by myself. I am not a pro, but I did decent work in past (without inflicting damage) to an exterior of my cars.

After reading this forum I found out how little I knew and decided to ask real experts how to go about the project.

In past I would get a good bucket wash (I would use dish-washer detergent in order to remove all protecting coating/waxes from the clear coat, with soft, clean washing pad). I would then wash off the soap with the unpressurized stream of water and get to dry it with the microfiber detailing towels.

Next , I would either just apply the wax (if paint condition was good enough), or start with the least aggressive product (polish with polishing buffer, using my Makita rotary).

In some case I had to use swirl remover or fine scratch remover, and then follow with polish and wax.

I did use rubbing compound (with wool pad and Makita buffer) on someone else car and results usually stunned those who saw the transformation of dull, oxidized paint (not talking about clear coat here) to a brand new shine and smooth feel of a fine silk.

But, reading this forum, I came to conclusion that:

A. My methods were way amateurish and even crude.

B. There are better products to achieve great results than what I was using before.


Now, let me summarize what I have and what I need.

1. I have a new car with black clear coat (has fine scratches and swirls, but no holograms or some obvious to untrained eye defects).

2. I have a Makita rotary buffer and ordinary orbital one (if need be I can use either).

3. I don't want to spend a fortune on products, but I am not going to go cheap if that means less protection and poor quality. If spending $25 on a wax, polish or sealant will save me $10K in preserving a car value I would think it stupid to not do so.
On the other hand, if I have to spent $100-$200 on each product and two days to do the job I may as well find a $400-$500 local elite-car detailer and have someone else do the job.
But I want to work on my own and looking for the most optimal solutions and products to use.

I would prefer durable and good quality Sealant and need your advise WHAT should I do before sealing my paint? Will I have to polish or would I need to remove swirls with dedicated swirls remover first?

What pads and technique would you recommend? I have green pad for Makita and cotton for my orbital. Do I even have to use mechanic method of removing fine scratches and swirls marks?

And what are the best, optimal products to use (based on what is described above) and which you would recommend your good friends to use?


Any advise and suggestion would be HIGHLY APPRECIATED



Thank you,

Carenthusiast

 

[FUNX650]

P.S. Below is my OP, without words and phrases taken out of context.

I was correct!! It does contain your stating:

1. "I have a new car with black clear coat (has fine scratches and swirls, but no holograms or some obvious to untrained eye defects)".

I have a black car and noticed a lot of fine scratches and swirl marks which , I assume, were left during the delivery process when car was washed and wiped in dealer's shop.

This thread is not "dealer bashing" thread, rather I want to ask experts what is the best way to remove fine scratches and give the longest protection to a car I can.

I will be doing all work by myself. I am not a pro, but I did decent work in past (without inflicting damage) to an exterior of my cars.

After reading this forum I found out how little I knew and decided to ask real experts how to go about the project.

In past I would get a good bucket wash (I would use dish-washer detergent in order to remove all protecting coating/waxes from the clear coat, with soft, clean washing pad). I would then wash off the soap with the unpressurized stream of water and get to dry it with the microfiber detailing towels.

Next , I would either just apply the wax (if paint condition was good enough), or start with the least aggressive product (polish with polishing buffer, using my Makita rotary).

In some case I had to use swirl remover or fine scratch remover, and then follow with polish and wax.

I did use rubbing compound (with wool pad and Makita buffer) on someone else car and results usually stunned those who saw the transformation of dull, oxidized paint (not talking about clear coat here) to a brand new shine and smooth feel of a fine silk.

But, reading this forum, I came to conclusion that:

A. My methods were way amateurish and even crude.

B. There are better products to achieve great results than what I was using before.


Now, let me summarize what I have and what I need.

1. I have a new car with black clear coat (has fine scratches and swirls, but no holograms or some obvious to untrained eye defects).

2. I have a Makita rotary buffer and ordinary orbital one (if need be I can use either).

3. I don't want to spend a fortune on products, but I am not going to go cheap if that means less protection and poor quality. If spending $25 on a wax, polish or sealant will save me $10K in preserving a car value I would think it stupid to not do so.
On the other hand, if I have to spent $100-$200 on each product and two days to do the job I may as well find a $400-$500 local elite-car detailer and have someone else do the job.
But I want to work on my own and looking for the most optimal solutions and products to use.

I would prefer durable and good quality Sealant and need your advise WHAT should I do before sealing my paint? Will I have to polish or would I need to remove swirls with dedicated swirls remover first?

What pads and technique would you recommend? I have green pad for Makita and cotton for my orbital. Do I even have to use mechanic method of removing fine scratches and swirls marks?

And what are the best, optimal products to use (based on what is described above) and which you would recommend your good friends to use?


Any advise and suggestion would be HIGHLY APPRECIATED Feed back please



Thank you,

Carenthusiast

That is one of my points.
There are the others that you haven't mentioned yet.

Bob

 

[allenk4]

Carenthusiast

You do not have enough knowledge on the subject to speak to the people on this forum in the condescending manner that you have chosen.

We all understand what you are saying, though it requires sorting through contradictions, spelling, syntax and grammatical errors. You are mentally cutting and pasting random bits of information you have gathered from professionals and spitting them on your keyboard, without understanding them beyond a very basic level. Unfortunately, much like a Student who plagiarizes his term paper, you don't seem to understand that the process of doing the work to acquire the base of knowledge to write the paper on your own is what will serve you best moving forward. On this Forum, our Members are all striving to learn and improve their craft.

Without building a strong foundation of basic knowledge, you will not succeed.

At this point, I would suggest that you save up and hire a professional to polish & coat your car. You should also invest in a maintenance package from that same detailer to ensure that the vehicle is maintained to your high standards.

Good Luck,


Kyle Allen
Austin, Texas

 

[carenthusiast]

I was correct!! It does contain your stating:

1. "I have a new car with black clear coat (has fine scratches and swirls, but no holograms or some obvious to untrained eye defects)".


This is one of my points.
There are the others that you haven't mentioned yet.

Bob

That's not a point. That is a reference to a sentence with an error in order of the words.

It is written thus: "I have a new car with black clear coa"

What is means is: "I have a new black car with clear coat"

It could be written even more precisely: "I have a new car which is painted in black with clear coat applied over it".

It seems you have found an error related to grammar and the order in which words were lined to write a sentence. It is obvious that I didn't mean that I have a clear coat that is black (it is an impossibility and oxymoron, if taken literally, since clear means not colored and if the final/top coat was black then there would be no clear coat to speak of. Besides, all modern cars (all that I know of) come with clear coat, so that's another hint that my car, not being exception to general manufacturing standards, came with clear coat on top of black paint. I thought it would be obvious what the intent and meaning of the sentence I wrote was (albeit I admit to have written it with an error).

Now that we have cleared that part out, what your point or question is as related to the OP? Are there other grammatical issues that prevent you from meaningful participation in the discussion?

English not being my mother language (it's actually the fourth I have learned so far and one in which I could not put few words together before the age of 20), I may not express my thoughts as clearly as would be expected from a Native speaker. But usually I am pretty good at getting my thoughts and ideas across, at the level that anyone with modest comprehension of English understands what I truly mean.
If you are an exception to that general rule let me know what else isn't clear and I will do some additional explanation for you.


Best regards,

Carenthusiast

 

[carenthusiast]

Carenthusiast

You do not have enough knowledge on the subject to speak to the people on this forum in the condescending manner that you have chosen.

We all understand what you are saying, though it requires sorting through contradictions, spelling, syntax and grammatical errors. You are mentally cutting and pasting random bits of information you have gathered from professionals and spitting them on your keyboard, without understanding them beyond a very basic level. Unfortunately, much like a Student who plagiarizes his term paper, you don't seem to understand that the process of doing the work to acquire the base of knowledge to write the paper on your own is what will serve you best moving forward. On this Forum, our Members are all striving to learn and improve their craft.

Without building a strong foundation of basic knowledge, you will not succeed.

At this point, I would suggest that you save up and hire a professional to polish & coat your car. You should also invest in a maintenance package from that same detailer to ensure that the vehicle is maintained to your high standards.

Good Luck,


Kyle Allen
Austin, Texas

Dear Kelly Allen,

With all due respect ,Sir , but you sitting in Austin, Texas will not decide what I ,being here on East Coast, will do with my car or how will I approach this project.
This is not a House or Representatives and Tea Party members don't override my personal decisions how to care for my own car (I hope you have a good sense of humor and don't overreact to the line about Tea Party And, who knows, you could be living in Texas and not be a Tea Party member. Austin has reputation of being a Liberal city after all
Just keep in mind that either way I am the one who owns the car and who has ultimate authority in deciding a course of action, as far as my car care needs are concerned.

As to knowledge, I never claimed to be expert in car detailing. I repeated, over and over again, that I find myself to be amateurish and possessing of very limited knowledge when it comes to complex intricacies of paint correction. At no point did I overestimate my detailing skills (if I was so confident of my expert skills why would I bother to ask others how to go about it?). On top of it I welcomed constructive criticism and told my critics to feel free to even call me a noob in detailing: it does not offend me at all, as long as it is related to the discussion theme.

But at no point did I imply that it is ok to pick on my character as a separate point of discussion. To the contrary, I try to consistently remind that I do not create threads with the purpose of disputing my personal characteristics or make a good sport of bashing me on personal level unrelated to the questions or content of my posts and the thread.
Nor do you have any control over how will I proceed with my projects: it is entirely up to me to hire a professional or do it on my own.
All you can do is share your expertise (if you have any) and let me know what products and methods would work the best, given the tools and resources I have.

Best regards,

Carenthusiast

 

[Scott@IncrediblyDetailed]

Dear Kelly Allen,

With all due respect ,Sir , but you sitting in Austin, Texas will not decide what I ,being here on East Coast, will do with my car or how will I approach this project.
This is not a House or Representatives and Tea Party members don't override my personal decisions how to care for my own car (I hope you have a good sense of humor and don't overreact to the line about Tea Party And, who knows, you could be living in Texas and not be a Tea Party member. Austin has reputation of being a Liberal city after all
Just keep in mind that either way I am the one who owns the car and who has ultimate authority in deciding a course of action, as far as my car care needs are concerned.

As to knowledge, I never claimed to be expert in car detailing. I repeated, over and over again, that I find myself to be amateurish and possessing of very limited knowledge when it comes to complex intricacies of paint correction. At no point did I overestimate my detailing skills (if I was so confident of my expert skills why would I bother to ask others how to go about it?). On top of it I welcomed constructive criticism and told my critics to feel free to even call me a noob in detailing: it does not offend me at all, as long as it is related to the discussion theme.

But at no point did I imply that it is ok to pick on my character as a separate point of discussion. To the contrary, I try to consistently remind that I do not create threads with the purpose of disputing my personal characteristics or make a good sport of bashing me on personal level unrelated to the questions or content of my posts and the thread.
Nor do you have any control over how will I proceed with my projects: it is entirely up to me to hire a professional or do it on my own.
All you can do is share your expertise (if you have any) and let me know what products and methods would work the best, given the tools and resources I have.

Best regards,

Carenthusiast

Simply put, he gave you the best advice. People have given you suggestions and their advice...take it and do some research, come back with a product list (so you know the actually costs) and let us help you from there if you choose to do it yourself. There are so many variables with paint correction that you need to proper tools, products and knowledge to succeed, it's not going to be a cheap fix. The investment in tools and products to properly correct your paint is going to cost around the same as a professional to do it once.

Be nice to people who are helping you out. Your attitude is coming off as ungrateful and condescending. :xyxthumbs:

 

[RMM]

HF power tools typically don't have a good reputation and most of the negative comments in the thread you mention are from those who have not tried the HF DA but have predetermined opinions. The DA has poven to be different (except the backing plate is crap) There is a thread on another detailing forum where quite a few pro detailers are using it with great success. Like I said it's not top of the line, but will get the job done and can always be used for smaller pads later on if you want to get something else, but you may find it is enough for doing your own cars.

Regarding DG 105 all I can say is that if you seal your car now and in 2 or 3 months polish it with a DA and the proper pad and product the 105 will be removed in the first few seconds of polishing. This is not my opinion--it's fact--I've been using DG105 for over five years.

DG105 is a sealant. The other alternative I mentioned are "COATINGS"
Coatings--as I said you need to do some reading. Optimum Opticoat was the first of the coatings and will last 10 years or more--it can only be removed mechanically with an abrasive polish. DP Coating should last 2 years and Pinnicale's coating will last up to 3 years--there are many others out there. Coatings are not snake oil--almost universally accepted and discussed widely on this and other detailing forums. These are not like the products sold by auto dealers.

Here's some articles by Mike that are very infomative:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html

:iagree: This is good advice and information. Take it.

DG 105 is cleaner/polish, not really a sealant. According to this product link on autogeek (Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) # 105) it provides tough coating.
It doesn't even use word "sealant". So, if I was to pick on words then DG 105 is not even a sealant to begin with.
...

You seem to be very "green" in detailing: "polish" is what DG calls its sealants. So, yes, it is a sealant with some cleaning properties.

...Now, I am not an expert in polishing, waxing and coating (If I were why would I ask for advise here), but somehow I am extremely skeptical of any claim about a protective coat that can last 10 years....

You can be skeptical, but there are several reported cases of Opti-Coat applications made just after it was released that still endure to this day: they are not 10 years old, but nothing know to this day has lasted the 5 years already reported.

...Finally, with DG stating that their own water stain removers won't remove DG 105, which claim should I give more weight to? Yours (that it takes seconds to remove with the polish and DA) or their own?
I understand they (or their distributors) may have a motive to overinflate the durability and strength of their polish/sealant, but almost any sealant has prime purpose of "sealing" what is underneath. Why would anyone want to "seal" imperfection, even if for 6 or less months? ...

ski2 is right. Learn with his experience.

Read More

Write Less

My information is accurate and informative. DG 105 is a sealant with cleaners in it. OptiCoat 2.0 will last multiple years. These are accepted and demonstrated facts in the detailing community. I've given you a link to articles that will help you understand. Yet it appears you refuse to do some additional reading and continue to question the information and advice given. So, good luck!!

:iagree:

Bob , there isn't such a thing as , literally, black clear coat. But there is black paint with the clear coat over it. I made sure to mention that the paint has clear coat (though anyone would assume the same, since all new cars come with the clear coat). And I emphasized that it is (referring to paint, obviously) is black. I think it was important to mention it. Manufacturers put clear coat on all paint colors, but it is the dark (and especially the black) painted cars that show the swirl marks and fine scratches the most. I was certain that anyone reading what I wrote would understand the intent and meaning, but I may have erred about it, so this is the clarification.
...

You are wrong on several things: not all new cars have clear coat; there are coloured clear coats.

...
1. If you have a custom project at hand you will have very specific goals and resources at hand which the writer of article can't possibly be aware of. How would article writer know that I have rotary buffer and orbital but don't want to buy DA or spend over $200 on products?...

You have a rotary and an orbital and you don't want to buy a DA?

 

[carenthusiast]

Simply put, he gave you the best advice. People have given you suggestions and their advice...take it and do some research, come back with a product list (so you know the actually costs) and let us help you from there if you choose to do it yourself. There are so many variables with paint correction that you need to proper tools, products and knowledge to succeed, it's not going to be a cheap fix. The investment in tools and products to properly correct your paint is going to cost around the same as a professional to do it once.

Be nice to people who are helping you out. Your attitude is coming off as ungrateful and condescending. :xyxthumbs:

I am an atheist and don't believe in offering my right cheek when someone slaps the left.
Respect is a two way street. I described, to the best of my abilities, the condition of the car I have and the tools and resources I have. I asked very straightforward questions (what products to buy , what methods to use).

Some posters directly addressed my questions (suggested to use M205 for correction and DG105 for sealing). I also got some suggestions worthy of consideration (ex. buy HF DA for under $60 to properly apply M205 without breaking the bank).

But this poster whom you claim to have given me the "best advise" is really just insulted me , accused me of copy pasting and plagiarizing someone else's posts and topped it with the claim that directly contradicts what i posted on this and other threads earlier.

What should I reply to this poster?

I am still far from getting into bitter personal exchange, but I see it necessary to remind once again that this thread is not dedicated to me as a person, but it is created with clear purpose of asking the advise of experts on how to proceed given the tools and resources and the goal I have.

From what I gather so far, I can do a good bucket wash, then apply M205 with HF DA to correct the paint and seal it with DG105. My total cost: $28 for M205, $11 for DG 105 and around $60 for HF DA, plus shipping. So far well under $200 and looks like I can do it on my own without spending $300-$500 or more on elite car detailing services.
Unless I get better ideas than what I have received so far, I think I will go with HFDA/M205/DG105 route.
Thanks to posters who answered my questions and gave me some constructive ideas how to proceed!

Personal attacks and ad hominems are never appreciated.


Best regards,

Carenthusiast

 

[carenthusiast]

You seem to be very "green" in detailing: "polish" is what DG calls its sealants. So, yes, it is a sealant with some cleaning properties.

So, DG calls its' sealants a "polish". And that's what makes me "green" in detailing?

P.S. I don't dispute being rather amateurish in detaling (certainly not an Expert and Pro), but if DG calls its' sealant a polish, how does it make me "green" in detailing ?