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How much of one aerosol can would get used to fully coat a 4 door sedan?
Also, can it be re-applied over itself to enhance protection and durability, and if so, how much time should you wait in between coats?
I recently applied carpro reload to my 12 mustang and I have had a heck of a time getting the advertised results. Evan, you commented on my post about it. I ended up ordering some carpro reset because me and corey at carpro figured it was the tree sap / pollen causing issues with reload not beading up. Anyway, the day I got reset in the mail I went out to wet the car down to give it a wash and to my surprise, it was beading like crazy. I thought what the heck, how does this make sense.....anyway now after a couple washes its best to not working properly.
So, here I am researching sonax poly net shield. Would you recommend this product to apply over reload? I dont want to have to polish the whole car if I dont have to so I was considering poly net shield because it seems to be a great product for topping other coatings and sealants.
Any issues with the over spray on to the rotors? I sprayed PNS onto a foam pad and applied it to the entire car including wheels and exterior glass that way. I recently tried PNS and I'm not sure I'm that wild about it. I didn't like the way it applied and it leaves the surface not slick at all, exactly as I have heard it described... "grippy." It may bead well, but what about things sticking to it? It doesn't seem like it would do well in that area at all, not like Collinite would, in fact not like any other product would. Since this was the 1st time I used it I am sure I wasted product because I found it hard/odd to apply, hard to see, etc. on silver paint. I don't know why I even bother trying other products when Collinite is what I keep going back to.I don't know how much was my prep and how much was PNS, but the silver paint looks unreal! It turned heads for sure. I just don't know yet if I would ever buy it again... it's an odd product I found hard to work with and the cost is a bit much when compared to other products.
Nice thanks for the input!Used it on my wheels the other day when I was rotating them so I could get the barrels and its awesome how it just repels the water offoff like crazy.... Can't wait to put it on the car itself!!![]()
Excellent write up.
I've been searching for something easy/quick to use on my wheels and, thanks to your review, I think I just found it.
I'm sure by now many of you have seen this how to for SPNS and have seen great results!
What if I told you I could make your application easier?
Here is my newer method for an even easier application.
So you have washed your vehicle weathers is been a traditional wash or a rindless wash and now your are ready to dry your car before you put on your PNS......WAIT!!!!!! Not so fast let's kill two birds with one stone! Let's put on the PNS as we we dry!
After you have washed your car you will have some water remaining on the surface of your vehicle. You will want to take a soft MF towel like 530 for this application.
Here is what I had left on the car
As before spray a light coat over the area and spray some on your towel as well. Now spread out the PNS over the area.
With the next part you can do one of two things. First, you can take your other dry MF towel and buff off the excess or what I do is take some BSD and now respect the area and buff off the excess and reveal and clean, streak free clear coat.
I find that using a Detailer removed the streaks fast and easier and plus it will add a little slick feeling as well.
Here is the car all finished
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Nice, but I don't like diluting my lsp. I'll stick with my cross hatch method of applying both PNS and BSD. I do mostly rinseless washes (UWW) so I don't need a drying aid, but thanks anyway. I'm sure this tip will help others.rops:
Please tell me you used some sort of polish, paint cleanser, or clay before washing your car and taking that picture. Because if you reapplied PNS over an old application of PNS using this method, I think your shortcut method might be showing it's ineffectiveness. There is a lot of water left on your car and the water beading/sheeting is not indicative of the results I get with these products following Sonax application directions.
Sorry to get off topic. Do you usually clay and go straight to sealant? I always seem to get marring no matter what lube I use.
I never clay unless I'm polishing. Marring is inevitable after claying especially on a dark car.