How to towel dry a car?

davidc11291

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This is primarily a question about drying a car prior to lsp application, when a lot of water beads up on the surface and most of it won't just slide off on it's own.

Normally I use 1 towel to get the majority of the water then go over it again with a second towel to get that last 10% of moisture that remains on the surface. This means that with the second towel, I'm basically running a dry towel over an almost dry paint surface, which I don't like because A) it's time consuming, B) I go through 3-4 towels per vehicle, and C) I don't want to run the risk of marring the surface by pretty much buffing off every bit of moisture with a dry towel.

Do you get 95% of the moisture off of the car and leave the last little bit to air dry? What's your technique?
 
What I do to make it easier is I wash my car one panel or one section at a time.

For example.

I always start with the roof. After washing I dry it with one waffle weave and then go over it with a second to get the remaining water. Then I do the hood, front fenders/bumper next using the same process.

I find it makes drying less tedious and you dont have to worry about it water spotting so you can take your time vs trying to dry a car all at once.

With the waffle weave. You dont want to press it into the paint to wipe off the water. You could blot dry, or for me, I prefer to gently drag it across the surface.

It works for me.
 
Your post brought back some bad memories. The more you wipe your paint the more you will scratch it. It only takes one towel with even a speck of foreign matter on in to cause scratches and the thought of rubbing a dry towel over the surface makes my heart race. My recommendation is to invest at some point in a master blaster. I say invest because you are investing in a guaranteed scratch free method of drying as you will never touch the paint again to dry a car. It's that good.
 
I used to use towels to dry a car and probably at some point most of here did.

With the advent of Microfiber and then various improvements in the design of the towel and the product itself, more dedicated Microfiber towels have come along separating them into 4 categories; buffing, glass, utility, and drying.

While the Microfiber towels are light years better than using a bath towel anything that contacts the surface can impart micro scratches even if the utmost care is exercised.

For several years I've been using an electric leaf blower to dry the finish after rinsing. High speed air quickly removes and standing water or water beads from the finish without causing any damage. Any finish protection that might be present only aids in removing water due to its slickness... :props:
 
I agree with John and Bobby, and use a electric blower to get as much water off the car. I usually only have to use a towel for glass and the roof, as I can't seem to get to those before the water dries and streaks (apropos to that, I'd love to get a Master Blaster, but the price and, more importantly, the shipping would just be too prohibitive). If I do have to use a towel, I always blot-dry, never wipe or drag.
 
Why not us a drying aid like GG spray on way. There are a lot of them out there.
 
Flooding the car is a technique that helps clear the residual water beading and water spots.

Check out Nick's post on drying. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/41161-how-maximize-your-drying-towel.html

Search for other posts on how to flood the car at the end of a wash. On a car with a good coat of LSP, this removes nearly all the water without touching the paint. Invest in a Guzzler Waffle Weave and you'll probably only need one drying towel.
 
In the absence of forced air drying I would go strictly with ONR washing. ONR has one huge advantage over conventional car shampoo...polymers. These rascals actually bond directly with dirt and surface contaminants and once bonded, form a protective barrier around the particle. Polymers also bond with the paint and forms a protective barrier on the surface of the paint thereby creating a scratch free and marring free environment when you wipe the wash media over the paint. Soaps are surfactants and only create a slick barrier... There is no bonding with the dirt or the paint.

Why is this important? ONR is a protective barrier just by having it on the paint. When you wipe to dry you have polymers protecting the paints surface. When you use shampoos you have to rinse the soap off leaving NO protection at all on the paint thereby requiring you to take another step by spraying on a drying agent or spray wax begire drying with towel which is impractical under 40 degrees.

ONR is a really revolutionary product and I truly believe that no conventional shampoo can match if used properly. Results don't lie. It always kills me how guys will use ONR when winter comes when the car is the dirtiest and conditions the worse, then abandon it once spring arrives. Makes no sense. Think about it.
 
Master Blaster to blow off all excess water and that in the cracks. Then a fine mist of a detail spray and a light wipe or blot to remove any spotting and add the benefits of the detail spray.
 
I use a $20 electric leaf blower, then wipe off the excess with an Absorber

How is everything going with you David?
 
Your asking about drying prior to LSP application sink assume there is little or no protection on the paint. With nothing there it can be very hard to remove all the water. I use Griots spray wax (on BOGO now) and it helps sheet some of the water before you even use a towel. Try a quick detailer as well since it should do the same and you probably have some around.

I don't use a completely dry towel since I worry about marring. I dry the glass first and that moistens the towel then I work on the paint. I don't remove 100% at first. Jus work around the car removing most of the water. Then I wring out the towel and get the little remaining. A blower or master blaster is great if you have one but if not you just have to play with your method until you find something safe.
 
I use the water sheeting method. Before drying, I remove the trigger sprayer from my hose, turn the water on low, and then cover the car with a "sheet" of water. 90% of the water sheets off the paint (when of course the paint is in good condition and well protected). I then use my cobra supreme guzzler to dry whatever left. I just can't bring myself to use a leaf blower, I can't have my neighbors thinking I am any more insane than they already do.
 
ONR is a really revolutionary product and I truly believe that no conventional shampoo can match if used properly. Results don't lie. It always kills me how guys will use ONR when winter comes when the car is the dirtiest and conditions the worse, then abandon it once spring arrives. Makes no sense. Think about it.

It is clear that not everyone agrees.
 
I have never, ever noticed any swirls or micro-marring when my vehicles are dried using this towel drying method!!!

{YMMV, of course.}

bailadora_carwash4.jpg



:D

Bob
 
just a tip, dont use a leaf blower you already used for yard useage will never be able to get all the dust out of it and then you blow dust on your nice clean car, dont ask me how i know....led to me re-washing my car.....luckily no paint was harmed!. back on topic i never have a problem with the excess "moisture" when i dry its nearly how cleaning your windows work you wipe theres a trail of moisture that quickly evaporates leaving it dry, unless you are talking about the water that collects into those hard to dry hidden areas, for that i open and close all doors then when im drying i use my technique of hard blotting where i take my towel and just tap towel around my side markers for example and that makes the water come out and wont drip while i'm waxing.sooner or later you will find a drying technique that works for you, an absorber does work great only if used properly and you make darn sure theres no trapped dirt particles. but i dont drag an absorber if i use one i lightly touch it to the paint hard to explain but it works...
 
Im really suprised at your responses. So you guys dont believe pulling a clean waffle weave across the paint to dry is a good idea? Im not putting pressure on it. Just sliding it across.

What would be a good electric leaf blower to buy? Preferably one that is cheap?
 
Im really suprised at your responses. So you guys dont believe pulling a clean waffle weave across the paint to dry is a good idea? Im not putting pressure on it. Just sliding it across.

What would be a good electric leaf blower to buy? Preferably one that is cheap?


There is just the OCD behavior to find ways to dry with less touching of the paint. Of course, it could be all for nothing if there is some flaw somewhere else in your paint cleaning process.

You can dry it with a ww towel after sheeting of the water while rinsing. You may want to dry the glass first since it will get the ww slightly damp before going on the paint. You can also blot plus you can use a drying aid (your favorite detail spray or something like a rinseless product mixed at QD strength) to reduce friction as you wipe plus add some shine.
 
For the most part, we drive our cars and truck every day and expecting to obtain and more importantly maintain a show car shine is virtually impossible.

We tend to take things to the nth degree and "occasionally" lose sight of reality or the norm. Drying the finish with a clean Microfiber drying towel is certainly fine and will not harm the finish. Before I started using a leaf blower, this is the way I dried my cars and trucks and was perfectly satisfied.

Starting at the top, gently wipe each panel with a clean Microfiber drying towel in a straight line fashion. Do this with little pressure as the towel itself drinks up the remaining water. Swap with a dry one to finish the task..

There are extremists no matter which way you turn and you'll find many here...I ought to know, I'm one of them.....
 
I have never, ever noticed any swirls or micro-marring when my vehicles are dried using this towel drying method!!!

{YMMV, of course.}

bailadora_carwash4.jpg



:D

Bob

I wish to sincerely apologize for any offense my previous/original photo may have caused anyone. That was not my intention.

My personal thanks goes toward Mr. Mike Phillips for his assistance in rectifying this issue; and, a special thanks to all of AGO's Guests, Members, Moderators, Administrators, and Owners for your understanding in this matter.

:)

Bob
 
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