How to use a finishing wax as a cleaner wax?

[Chase.Detailing]

Okay guys, here's my situation. I just found out about a large show going on Sunday, and tomorrow was going to be my car washing day. Well, my soft red paint could use a very slight touch up/light polishing for daily driver swirls and some micro marring i have found lately.

My question is, I love collinite 845, and will use this to winterize my car instead of my original plan to go the coating route. What I am wondering is can I use this finishing wax to do some light polishing if I use a firmer pad? Unlike the usual soft red CCS 6" I use?

I'm thinking a blue CCS 6" pad or maybe the next step up, black or white? Trying to remember....

What speed should I but my PC 7424 at for this? And suggested passes? I'll obviously do a test spot first.

Thanks, and here's some eye candy just so you all see what I'm working on....

 

[dcjredline]

Problem is finishing waxes have no abrasives in them. And the red, blue, and black pads don't correct either. I would GUESS that a white pad with a finishing wax would do more harm than good for you...at least I doubt it would correct at all. You don't have an AIO? Go to autozone or Walmart and get Meguiars Ultimate polish for $10...why is that not an option?

Sent from my XT1030 using AG Online

 

[VP Mark]

Not really. Go get some Meg's cleaner Wax at your local store. It has some very light abrasives in it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using AG Online

 

[Chase.Detailing]

I have a gallon of Meg's D151 and I also have something called UV2 by Hollander Co. It's a cleaner wax.

I just really wanted to use collinite for its durability and get the car protected for winter all at once.

 

[miad]

first thing I thought was the same thing the others posted, you could get lots of over-the-counter products with just a bit of cut. but if you wanted something with a "wax" at the same time, Megs Cleaner wax is a good OTC option too, but doesn't offer great protection, not near what 845 does. second thing I thought was, if you have a detailing business, it seems like you would know all of this already. if you have 151 already (not the rum), that's what you should use, but you won't make it through the winter with great protection. if you want to do it now and not redo anything before winter, you might have to 2 step it. its a tiny car, you are talking about the difference in 30 minutes time.

 

[Chase.Detailing]

first thing I thought was the same thing the others posted, you could get lots of over-the-counter products with just a bit of cut. but if you wanted something with a "wax" at the same time, Megs Cleaner wax is a good OTC option too, but doesn't offer great protection, not near what 845 does. second thing I thought was, if you have a detailing business, it seems like you would know all of this already. if you have 151 already (not the rum), that's what you should use, but you won't make it through the winter with great protection. if you want to do it now and not redo anything before winter, you might have to 2 step it. its a tiny car, you are talking about the difference in 30 minutes time.

I do know the difference in length of time of protection, thanks. I might just probably 1-step polish then wax. The wax step is quick anyway. A little extra time now will help me "save" time down the road.

I wish I could work more on my car more, but customers cars take precedent.

 

[davey g-force]

Or you could just use your D151. The durability of that is decent...

 

[FUNX650]

I see nothing wrong in using an AIO/Cleaner Wax...
And then: Follow-that-up with Collinite #845.
You can: "Kill two birds with one stone" that way!

I do it all the time!

Bob

 

[miad]

that's the thing, Bob. he wanted to do this in 1 step, get a bit of correction, but also long enough protection to last all winter. nothing AIO does this, that I know of. you need to remove the imperfections, then protect, if you want solid protection, not just some protection, that will last all winter in Virginia.

 

[FUNX650]

that's the thing, Bob. he wanted to do this in 1 step, get a bit of correction, but also long enough protection to last all winter. nothing AIO does this, that I know of. you need to remove the imperfections, then protect, if you want solid protection, not just some protection, that will last all winter in Virginia.

See...That's the thing:
No AIO...IMHO...is going to provide "lasting protection" all Winter long in Virginia; that's the intended purpose of the Collinite #845.

The OP is gonna need to perform, at the very least:
Two (2) steps. Is an LSP application/removal that much
of a time killer?!?!

Bob

 

[haris300]

I have a lot of experience working with the original single stage paints on first gen Miata's. The paint is extremely soft and prone to scratching and nasty oxidation, but it requires very very little effort to liven it up. If the car still has the original paint, I'd say it's worth giving it a 1 stage correction with a fine polish before throwing on a durable sealant (that will surely outlast an AIO).

Here's some results from using a white Lake Country foam pad with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 on a very tired Classic Red Miata. (speed 4 on my Rupes 21ES)

I finished up by throwing on some Chemical Guy's JetSeal which didn't take more than 20 minutes to apply.