How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits

steelwindmachine said:
if you took one late model commuter car and did the AIO to one side and the multi-step to the other, would there be a marked discernible difference?
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Yes there would be a difference if the multi-step was done correctly. Especially on reds, blacks, darker solid colors, etc. However, as the thread notes, not everyone is looking for complete perfection. I do a number of 1-step, corrections that GREATLY increase the gloss and help reduce the imperfections.

I always try and do the hood, decklid and tops of fenders and quarter panels (what I call the sexy parts) extra good and may even over-do them a bit. TO me it's what the owners see's and other notice more. Get those stellar and it makes the harder to see imperfections that may be left all but a non-issue.

A little something extra, even on the entry level packages, goes a long way.
 
Eldorado2k said:
The difference is if you were to come back 3-4 weeks later [2 months tops in ideal conditions] there might not be much protection left on the paint. Shine and beading will have diminished to varying degrees [depending on weather, washings, etc]

Wheras the protection from a solid stand alone sealant/lsp will far exceed and last much longer, and in the long run provide better value for the customer because their vehicle won't look like it's in need of another detail after just 6 weeks or so.. Paint will still be smooth, shiny, and water will still bead/sheet.

New vehicles are less prone to the visual aspects of it, but 1 thing that really separates the 2 packages is the protection, specifically from bonded contaminants. You only get 1 chance to maintain the paint in its like new condition, but it has to done from the very start.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So very true. Completly agree.

I don't run a business, but from a hobbiest standpoint the AIO's don't make sense for the reasons above. I don't have the time to be constantly applying LSP. I'd rather spend a little more time on the front end polishing and then adding a very durable LSP. I tried AIO's, and while the results looked good when I was done, the lack of durability killed it for me.
 
I presumed there would be a compromise in using a AIO vs. a traditional multi-step process, but I didn't know to what extent. Durability is certainly important to me. Might there be a 2-in-one product that just incorporates the functions of a compound and polish so that one could apply their choice of wax/sealant/coating for improved durability.
 
pdqgp said:
I always try and do the hood, decklid and tops of fenders and quarter panels (what I call the sexy parts) extra good and may even over-do them a bit. TO me it's what the owners see's and other notice more. Get those stellar and it makes the harder to see imperfections that may be left all but a non-issue.

A little something extra, even on the entry level packages, goes a long way.
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I teach that in my classes. Have you attended any of my classes? (can't remember)



Desertnate said:
I tried AIO's, and while the results looked good when I was done, the lack of durability killed it for me.
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Here's my take... first I purposefully own the type of vehicles I own for certain reasons, one reason is because I like classic looks, another reason is simple mechanics, another reason though is I like and prefer body styles that are fast and easy to maintain.


When it comes to my truck, because it's lifted, I can practically machine apply a one-step cleaner/wax to the sides about as fast as I can slow walk around it. No plastic trim to avoid or tape-off, just large flat panels of paint.

1987_Chevy_Silvardo_Mike_Phillips.jpg



And as such, I don't mind regularly machine applying a one step cleaner/wax.

Daily drivers get a dirt build up on the paint. Doesn't matter if they are waxed, sealed with a sealant or coated with a coating. The only way to ensure the road film is removed is to re-polish with something.

For me, a one-step cleaner/wax is the perfect solution. I also appreciate the FINE cutting cleaner/waxes on the market today so I'm never really removing any measurable amount of paint, just maintaining.

There's something for everyone now days...


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Daily drivers get a dirt build up on the paint. Doesn't matter if they are waxed, sealed with a sealant or coated with a coating. The only way to ensure the road film is removed is to re-polish with something.

For me, a one-step cleaner/wax is the perfect solution. I also appreciate the FINE cutting cleaner/waxes on the market today so I'm never really removing any measurable amount of paint, just maintaining.

There's something for everyone now days...

:)
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Mike - great info from you, as usual. I've saved a ton of time by regularly zipping around my vehicles with McKee's Jeweling Wax and a white thinpro pad. Cleans up great and provides nice gloss without grinding down my clearcoat. I learned this tip from you when you did the Jeweling Wax review. Thanks again for the awesome education you provide.
 
Mike,

So generally speaking, for a DD care, starting from scratch (no pun intended), would you suggest:

Initial Detail Paint Job Scope:
- do the full decontamination, clay, wash
- perform some level of multi-step paint correction as needed or an AIO
- wax, seal, coating or whatever protective element there is to the AIO being used

- hope the owner performs proper maintenance washes

Owner or Detailer Maintenance work:
- periodically perform a decontamination (Iron-X, Trix, etc.), wash, clay and then use a cleaner/wax to lightly polish/jewel and protect?

I guess what I want to feel out, is how to generally maintain that initial correction and contaminant protection for as long as possible with as little work and/or expense as possible.
 
NM, I read up on your MK37 Jeweling Wax, the Rainman car, etc. and see that this methodology could probably work.

steelwindmachine said:
Mike,

So generally speaking, for a DD care, starting from scratch (no pun intended), would you suggest:

Initial Detail Paint Job Scope:
- do the full decontamination, clay, wash
- perform some level of multi-step paint correction as needed or an AIO
- wax, seal, coating or whatever protective element there is to the AIO being used

- hope the owner performs proper maintenance washes

Owner or Detailer Maintenance work:
- periodically perform a decontamination (Iron-X, Trix, etc.), wash, clay and then use a cleaner/wax to lightly polish/jewel and protect?

I guess what I want to feel out, is how to generally maintain that initial correction and contaminant protection for as long as possible with as little work and/or expense as possible.
Click to expand...
 
Wknd Dtlr said:
Mike - great info from you, as usual.

I've saved a ton of time by regularly zipping around my vehicles with McKee's Jeweling Wax and a white thinpro pad.

Cleans up great and provides nice gloss without grinding down my clearcoat.

I learned this tip from you when you did the Jeweling Wax review.

Thanks again for the awesome education you provide.
Click to expand...


No problem and thank you for the kind words.



:)
 
I'll be using HD Speed for the first time soon and just read through this entire thread. Just have a few last questions.

How should I be using my DA with an AIO product? I'm thinking 6 section passes: 4 with "firm" pressure for correcting, then 2 with lighter pressure to finish down nicely. I will do a test spot first and try both black and white pads.

Also, does anyone bother with fallout remover when doing a 1-step?

Thanks!
 
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