BobbyG
New member
- Dec 29, 2009
- 13,211
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
As do I Mike!
rops:
Circa 1968.....that's AD..
As do I Mike!
rops:Circa 1968.....that's AD..
How to use a Rotary Polisher
- Thread starter Mike Phillips
- Start date
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #22
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Classic!
Looks like it's been to war and survived...
My dad had a rotary buffer that looked like the above. Back then they put the handy rubber tool rests on the back so you could set the thing down on a hood or fender and not scratch the paint. My original Makita has the same thing...
Maybe build a display case for it some day...
:xyxthumbs:
As do I Mike!
Circa 1968.....that's AD..
Classic!
Looks like it's been to war and survived...
My dad had a rotary buffer that looked like the above. Back then they put the handy rubber tool rests on the back so you could set the thing down on a hood or fender and not scratch the paint. My original Makita has the same thing...
Maybe build a display case for it some day...
:xyxthumbs:
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Hi Mike...
You guys wound-up with a perfect looking Corvette...
Not that I'm biased or any such thing.
-I couldn't help but notice the recent AGO forum discussions regarding:
"Finishing hologram-free with a rotary"; and, unless I have overlooked the
usage of a PC/DA-style polisher somewhere in this write-up
(unless it was, perhaps, to apply the wax-LSP?)...
-Would it then be correct for me to assume that you and the Boot Camp-students
did, indeed, perform this: Three-step 'correction-process' with rotaries only...
With attainment of a hologram-free 'finish' being the result thereof?
-Thanks for any input you may wish to provide regarding what I'll call a:
"Touchy-Subject".
Bob
Hi Mike...
You guys wound-up with a perfect looking Corvette...
Not that I'm biased or any such thing.
-I couldn't help but notice the recent AGO forum discussions regarding:
"Finishing hologram-free with a rotary"; and, unless I have overlooked the
usage of a PC/DA-style polisher somewhere in this write-up
(unless it was, perhaps, to apply the wax-LSP?)...
-Would it then be correct for me to assume that you and the Boot Camp-students
did, indeed, perform this: Three-step 'correction-process' with rotaries only...
With attainment of a hologram-free 'finish' being the result thereof?
-Thanks for any input you may wish to provide regarding what I'll call a:
"Touchy-Subject".
Bob
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Looks like you missed post number 7. :checkit:
That's rpm's for a rotary, not opm's for a DA.
Hard to remove swirls of that nature with a DA and a wax/sealant pad.
the "holo" free finish by a rotary was attained by finishing with a da. at least that's what I got out of it
Looks like you missed post number 7. :checkit:
For cutting with the wool pad I was at 1500 RPM for the second polishing step probably around 1200 RPM and for the final polishing step on the 600 RPM speed setting.
That's rpm's for a rotary, not opm's for a DA.
Hard to remove swirls of that nature with a DA and a wax/sealant pad.
RLucky82
New member
- Jan 3, 2013
- 249
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
You caught me before I realized I was thinking of another thread - then deleted my post. My Bad.
Looks like you missed post number 7. :checkit:
That's rpm's for a rotary, not opm's for a DA.
Hard to remove swirls of that nature with a DA and a wax/sealant pad.
You caught me before I realized I was thinking of another thread - then deleted my post. My Bad.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #26
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Yes. The only time a dual action polisher was used is when I machine applied the wax.
Here's the steps used from a previous post...
Never a touchy subject for me... been there and done that for a long time.
I've never seen a buffer worn down as much as mine from decades of buffing out cars using a rotary buffer. I've seen pictures of old buffers, like Bobby's and I'm sure they've been used a lot but I've never seen one where the owner's own hand wore the rough aluminum till it's smooth like chrome like I did.
Side of buffer worn smooth after years of buffing out paint
:xyxthumbs:
Yes. The only time a dual action polisher was used is when I machine applied the wax.
Here's the steps used from a previous post...
-Thanks for any input you may wish to provide regarding what I'll call a:
"Touchy-Subject".
Bob
Never a touchy subject for me... been there and done that for a long time.
I've never seen a buffer worn down as much as mine from decades of buffing out cars using a rotary buffer. I've seen pictures of old buffers, like Bobby's and I'm sure they've been used a lot but I've never seen one where the owner's own hand wore the rough aluminum till it's smooth like chrome like I did.
Side of buffer worn smooth after years of buffing out paint
:xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #27
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Just to note for everyone that will read this into the future, we used the Meguiar's M100 Pro Speed Compound when learning how to remove swirls and scratches out of the 1966 Corvette.
This video answers all your questions about the differences between M100, M101 and M105 including how M100 was formulated for low RPMs not high RPMs.
Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!
Recently I had the opportunity to host a round table discussion here at Autogeek’s Show Car Garage with experts from Meguiar’s including,
Jason Rose – Technical Service Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.
Mike Pennington – Global Director of Training for Meguiar’s.
Steve Coronado – Marketing Product Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.
In this round table discussion the four of us go over the benefits, features and intended use for each of these incredibly popular cutting compounds in Meguiar's Professional Line. This includes,
M105 Ultra Cut Compound - M101 Foam Cut Compound - M100 Pro Speed Compound
The goal of this round table discussion is to hopefully remove some of the confusion surrounding the intended markets and uses for these compounds and to help you choose the right compound for your specific detailing projects.
When Meguiar’s introduced M105 it quickly set a new standard for both cut and finish quality for an aggressive compound. M105 is what is called a SMAT product, that is it uses Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology instead of old fashioned coarse “rocks in a bottle” abrasive technology or diminishing abrasive technology, (DAT).
Following the success of M105, Meguiar’s introduced M101 Foam Cut Compound in Europe where it quickly became the new hot product being talked about throughout all the popular Internet detailing discussion forums.
M101 was not originally sold in the U.S. market but due to super high customer demand Meguiar’s was prompted to introduce the popular M101 to the U. S. market.
Next Meguiar’s introduced M100 Pro Speed Compound, which like the M105 and the M101 quickly gained popularity in the refinishing industry, detailing industry and even the do-it-yourself market.
Jason, Mike, Steve and myself discuss all the differences and similarities between these three compounds as well as describe the variety of ways each compound was intended to be used along with successful non-intended ways these products are being used throughout the entire spectrum of the refinishing and reconditioning industries as well as the car hobby in general.
A lively and informative discussion that will clear up any confusing you might have as well as help you decide with compound will be the best choice for your specific paint correction and detailing needs.
Yancy Martinez, the Creative Director for Autogeek really does a spectacular job of directing and editing this video making it not only informative but simply put, fun to watch.
So grab a bowel of popcorn and your favorite cold beverage and get ready to learn more about Meguiar’s premium, top shelf compounds.
On Autogeek.net
M105 Ultra Cut Compound
M101 Foam Cut Compound
M100 Pro Speed Compound
:xyxthumbs:
Just to note for everyone that will read this into the future, we used the Meguiar's M100 Pro Speed Compound when learning how to remove swirls and scratches out of the 1966 Corvette.
This video answers all your questions about the differences between M100, M101 and M105 including how M100 was formulated for low RPMs not high RPMs.
Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!
Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds Round Table Discussion at Autogeek with Mike Phillips
[video=youtube_share;Ugl35QexkkQ"]Meguiar's M105, M101 and..." target="_blank">Meguiar's M105, M101 and...[/video]
Recently I had the opportunity to host a round table discussion here at Autogeek’s Show Car Garage with experts from Meguiar’s including,
Jason Rose – Technical Service Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.
Mike Pennington – Global Director of Training for Meguiar’s.
Steve Coronado – Marketing Product Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.
In this round table discussion the four of us go over the benefits, features and intended use for each of these incredibly popular cutting compounds in Meguiar's Professional Line. This includes,
M105 Ultra Cut Compound - M101 Foam Cut Compound - M100 Pro Speed Compound
The goal of this round table discussion is to hopefully remove some of the confusion surrounding the intended markets and uses for these compounds and to help you choose the right compound for your specific detailing projects.
When Meguiar’s introduced M105 it quickly set a new standard for both cut and finish quality for an aggressive compound. M105 is what is called a SMAT product, that is it uses Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology instead of old fashioned coarse “rocks in a bottle” abrasive technology or diminishing abrasive technology, (DAT).
Following the success of M105, Meguiar’s introduced M101 Foam Cut Compound in Europe where it quickly became the new hot product being talked about throughout all the popular Internet detailing discussion forums.
M101 was not originally sold in the U.S. market but due to super high customer demand Meguiar’s was prompted to introduce the popular M101 to the U. S. market.
Next Meguiar’s introduced M100 Pro Speed Compound, which like the M105 and the M101 quickly gained popularity in the refinishing industry, detailing industry and even the do-it-yourself market.
Jason, Mike, Steve and myself discuss all the differences and similarities between these three compounds as well as describe the variety of ways each compound was intended to be used along with successful non-intended ways these products are being used throughout the entire spectrum of the refinishing and reconditioning industries as well as the car hobby in general.
A lively and informative discussion that will clear up any confusing you might have as well as help you decide with compound will be the best choice for your specific paint correction and detailing needs.
Yancy Martinez, the Creative Director for Autogeek really does a spectacular job of directing and editing this video making it not only informative but simply put, fun to watch.
So grab a bowel of popcorn and your favorite cold beverage and get ready to learn more about Meguiar’s premium, top shelf compounds.
On Autogeek.net
M105 Ultra Cut Compound
M101 Foam Cut Compound
M100 Pro Speed Compound
:xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #29
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
When using a rotary buffer I found low RPMs work just fine. 1000 RPMs or if you put the Flex PE14 on the 2 setting this is 900 RPMs and it works great.
I always tell people that you don't always have to buff at high speeds. Heck I can remove sanding marks by hand and my hand doesn't move at 1500 RPM
To remove sanding marks by hand you do have to move your hand fast and it does require a little technique...
:xyxthumbs:
When using a rotary buffer I found low RPMs work just fine. 1000 RPMs or if you put the Flex PE14 on the 2 setting this is 900 RPMs and it works great.
I always tell people that you don't always have to buff at high speeds. Heck I can remove sanding marks by hand and my hand doesn't move at 1500 RPM
To remove sanding marks by hand you do have to move your hand fast and it does require a little technique...
:xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #30
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
I used 1000 RPM for the wool pad cutting step for this entire car and even without a painted roof it's still a LARGE car by today's standards.
Video posted on September of 2013 but I did this work and posted my process in March or 2013.
This was right after M100 became available, Autogeek tends to get anything that's new before most anyone...
Note the part in red text below...
How to wet sand a car - Time Lapse Video
Back in March of this year, (2013), I did a complete wet sand, cut, polish and even machine waxed a 1964 Chevrolet Malibu and while doing this project, Yancy set the GoPro camera up to take a picture every minute.
It's been in queue for editing since then but I'm happy to announce it's now been edited and uploaded to our YouTube Channel.
Here's the steps I followed...
Covered windshield using the Beach Towel Tip.
Covered interior and convertible top with Eco-friendly drop cloth.
Removed easy to access chrome emblems and script.
Wiped entire car down with Wurth Clean-Solve per what I wrote in post #5 here.
Taped-off all edges and raised body lines using 3M Blue Vinyl Tape. Tape-off video here.
Machine sanded all body panels using a 2-step system
First sanding step: I used 3M Trizact #3000 Grit Discs. I used 3" discs for thin panels and around edges and body lines. Used the 6" discs for the major flat sections of each panel.
Second sanding step: I used 3M Trizact #5000 Grit Discs. I used 3" discs for thin panels and around edges and body lines. Used the 6" discs for the major flat sections of each panel.
Removed all sanding marks.
For this I used the new Meguiar's M100 Pro Speed Compound with a LC Wool Cutting pad on the Flex PE14. At the time I did this project back in March of 2013 this compound had just been introduced to the market, so it was a new compound and I think this is the first car completely sanded and compounded and caught on video using M100 Pro Speed Compound.
Speed on the Flex PE14 = 1000 RPM.
Removed any swirls left by the wool pad and the compounding step.
For this I used Meguiar's M205, the follow-up polish for M100 with a 6.5" Lake Country Flat Foam Polishing Pad on the Flex PE14. Speed on the Flex PE14 = 1000 RPM
Finish Polished to maximize gloss and ensure no holograms
After using the rotary buffer with the M205 I re-polished every square inch of paint using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish with a 5.5" Lake Country Foam Flat Finishing Pad on the Porter Cable 7424XP on the 6.0 speed setting.
Machine Waxed
After wiping all the finishing polish off I machine applied Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax using the Porter Cable 7424XP with a 5.5" Lake Country Foam Waxing Pad on the 4-5 speed setting.
Removed Wax
I removed the wax wearing microfiber gloves and using super soft rolled edge microfiber towels.
Comments....
I wanted to document not only the process but how long it would take me to do this type of project all by myself working non-stop. If you watch the video you'll see around the 4:47 time stamp that the car has now been turned around and is facing forward in the garage.
Here's what was going on...
While I did the actual work non-stop, as in once I started in the morning I did not stop till end of day, I did have to spread the work out over two days as I have too many other job duties to process outside of the garage.
The first day I sanded all the horizontal panels and the driver's side panels. The second day I turned the car around and only had to sand the passenger side.
In a number of places you'll see me standing while I either sand and buff or sitting on the floor while I sand and buff and the reason for this is we don't have a car lift in our garage and proper technique when sanding and buffing is to always be looking across from the paint you're working on. This is especially true when sanding and compounding. I always say,
If you can't bring the car up to you, (with a lift), then you have to lower yourself to the car"
The entire process from start to finish as I listed the steps above except for the initial wiping down of the car with a waterless wash and removing the chrome trim took me approximately,
12 Hours
I hustled the entire time. Only a few times did I stop to either take a water break, switch to different products or pads, or talk to someone that may have entered the garage.
I don't recommend ever trying to do this type of work in a hurry as you'll make mistakes so I didn't hurry but I did hustle. Time is valuable for all of us and I did this during business hours so another reason I had to hustle is because when working in the garage, other job responsibilities are on standby.
Besides this time-lapse video of completely sanding and buffing out an entire car, I think the first time this was ever caught on a GoPro camera using time lapse video was when a team of guys and myself did the full wet sand, cut and buff to a 1969 AMX in November of 2012 as documented in this thread,
Time Lapse Picture Capture of the 1969 AMX Nebraska Project
This was a fun project and I hope you enjoy the video.
I used 1000 RPM for the wool pad cutting step for this entire car and even without a painted roof it's still a LARGE car by today's standards.
Video posted on September of 2013 but I did this work and posted my process in March or 2013.
This was right after M100 became available, Autogeek tends to get anything that's new before most anyone...
Note the part in red text below...
How to wet sand a car - Time Lapse Video
Back in March of this year, (2013), I did a complete wet sand, cut, polish and even machine waxed a 1964 Chevrolet Malibu and while doing this project, Yancy set the GoPro camera up to take a picture every minute.
It's been in queue for editing since then but I'm happy to announce it's now been edited and uploaded to our YouTube Channel.
How to wet sand a car
[video=youtube_share;5zDuFzvKSAI"]How to wet sand a car[/video]
[video=youtube_share;5zDuFzvKSAI"]How to wet sand a car[/video]
Here's the steps I followed...
Covered windshield using the Beach Towel Tip.
Covered interior and convertible top with Eco-friendly drop cloth.
Removed easy to access chrome emblems and script.
Wiped entire car down with Wurth Clean-Solve per what I wrote in post #5 here.
Taped-off all edges and raised body lines using 3M Blue Vinyl Tape. Tape-off video here.
Machine sanded all body panels using a 2-step system
First sanding step: I used 3M Trizact #3000 Grit Discs. I used 3" discs for thin panels and around edges and body lines. Used the 6" discs for the major flat sections of each panel.
Second sanding step: I used 3M Trizact #5000 Grit Discs. I used 3" discs for thin panels and around edges and body lines. Used the 6" discs for the major flat sections of each panel.
Removed all sanding marks.
For this I used the new Meguiar's M100 Pro Speed Compound with a LC Wool Cutting pad on the Flex PE14. At the time I did this project back in March of 2013 this compound had just been introduced to the market, so it was a new compound and I think this is the first car completely sanded and compounded and caught on video using M100 Pro Speed Compound.
Speed on the Flex PE14 = 1000 RPM.
Removed any swirls left by the wool pad and the compounding step.
For this I used Meguiar's M205, the follow-up polish for M100 with a 6.5" Lake Country Flat Foam Polishing Pad on the Flex PE14. Speed on the Flex PE14 = 1000 RPM
Finish Polished to maximize gloss and ensure no holograms
After using the rotary buffer with the M205 I re-polished every square inch of paint using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish with a 5.5" Lake Country Foam Flat Finishing Pad on the Porter Cable 7424XP on the 6.0 speed setting.
Machine Waxed
After wiping all the finishing polish off I machine applied Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax using the Porter Cable 7424XP with a 5.5" Lake Country Foam Waxing Pad on the 4-5 speed setting.
Removed Wax
I removed the wax wearing microfiber gloves and using super soft rolled edge microfiber towels.
Comments....
I wanted to document not only the process but how long it would take me to do this type of project all by myself working non-stop. If you watch the video you'll see around the 4:47 time stamp that the car has now been turned around and is facing forward in the garage.
Here's what was going on...
While I did the actual work non-stop, as in once I started in the morning I did not stop till end of day, I did have to spread the work out over two days as I have too many other job duties to process outside of the garage.
The first day I sanded all the horizontal panels and the driver's side panels. The second day I turned the car around and only had to sand the passenger side.
In a number of places you'll see me standing while I either sand and buff or sitting on the floor while I sand and buff and the reason for this is we don't have a car lift in our garage and proper technique when sanding and buffing is to always be looking across from the paint you're working on. This is especially true when sanding and compounding. I always say,
If you can't bring the car up to you, (with a lift), then you have to lower yourself to the car"
The entire process from start to finish as I listed the steps above except for the initial wiping down of the car with a waterless wash and removing the chrome trim took me approximately,
12 Hours
I hustled the entire time. Only a few times did I stop to either take a water break, switch to different products or pads, or talk to someone that may have entered the garage.
I don't recommend ever trying to do this type of work in a hurry as you'll make mistakes so I didn't hurry but I did hustle. Time is valuable for all of us and I did this during business hours so another reason I had to hustle is because when working in the garage, other job responsibilities are on standby.
Besides this time-lapse video of completely sanding and buffing out an entire car, I think the first time this was ever caught on a GoPro camera using time lapse video was when a team of guys and myself did the full wet sand, cut and buff to a 1969 AMX in November of 2012 as documented in this thread,
Time Lapse Picture Capture of the 1969 AMX Nebraska Project
This was a fun project and I hope you enjoy the video.
David at LC Pads
New member
- Oct 4, 2013
- 198
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Very cool. Its heavy and loud, but I still have My first Milwaukee rotary - 13 years strong!Im the MAN
Very cool. Its heavy and loud, but I still have My first Milwaukee rotary - 13 years strong!Im the MAN
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Follow up question found here... http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...r-s-m105-m101-m100-compounds-watch-video.html
Follow up question found here... http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...r-s-m105-m101-m100-compounds-watch-video.html
oscfit
New member
- Mar 5, 2010
- 14
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
question about meguiars backing plates... When i went to Meguiars in Irvine for their advance class. I was using the Makita Rotary and was able to switch from their Solo Wool pads to foam pads without switching the backing plate. Do you guys happen to know which # backing plate this was? Thanks in advance for all help.
question about meguiars backing plates... When i went to Meguiars in Irvine for their advance class. I was using the Makita Rotary and was able to switch from their Solo Wool pads to foam pads without switching the backing plate. Do you guys happen to know which # backing plate this was? Thanks in advance for all help.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #34
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Probably this one...
Meguiars Solo Easy Buff W66 Rotary Backing Plate 6 Inch
:dblthumb2:
Probably this one...
Meguiars Solo Easy Buff W66 Rotary Backing Plate 6 Inch
:dblthumb2:
oscfit
New member
- Mar 5, 2010
- 14
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Mr. Philips, will this one work with the Meguiar softbuff 2.0 pads as well?
Mr. Philips, will this one work with the Meguiar softbuff 2.0 pads as well?
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #36
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Yes.
It will with the 7" Soft Buff 2.0 pads.
Flexible backing plates are in my opinion the best way to go...
:buffing:
Yes.
It will with the 7" Soft Buff 2.0 pads.
Flexible backing plates are in my opinion the best way to go...
:buffing:
oscfit
New member
- Mar 5, 2010
- 14
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Thank you Mr. Phillips, just ordered it.
Nacho
Thank you Mr. Phillips, just ordered it.
Nacho
Shockvvave
New member
- Dec 22, 2014
- 5
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Michael. I know this may seem silly to ask. But did you use wool for all three steps? Do you mind telling me what pads do you use please sir.
Michael. I know this may seem silly to ask. But did you use wool for all three steps? Do you mind telling me what pads do you use please sir.
For cutting with the wool pad I was at 1500 RPM for the second polishing step probably around 1200 RPM and for the final polishing step on the 600 RPM speed setting.
Shockvvave
New member
- Dec 22, 2014
- 5
- 0
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
Nvm I read through three times now and figured it out. I guess my next question would be. On polishing using Polish (white pad) micro polish (grey pad) 8" lake country pads. Are these the correct pad variations for these steps? I continue to get holograms using rotary.
Nvm I read through three times now and figured it out. I guess my next question would be. On polishing using Polish (white pad) micro polish (grey pad) 8" lake country pads. Are these the correct pad variations for these steps? I continue to get holograms using rotary.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #40
Re: How to use a Rotary Buffer
I only use wool pads for cutting.
The fibers, that is the millions of fibers that make up a wool cutting pad or even a wool FINISHING or POLISHING pad will each CUT THE PAINT and leave holograms.
Never finish with a fiber pad on a rotary buffer. Always finish with foam.
I searched your posting history to see if anywhere on our forum you mentioned what you were using for abrasive technology. Found this...
I use the makita Rotary. With the 3m 3 step.
3M makes great products but if you want to try to finish out hologram free on the widest spectrum of paint systems in the world, then you need to get an Ultra Fine Cut Polish and some Gold Foam Jeweling Pads.
A faster, easier and more consistent approach would be to simply purchase a DA Polisher and use a DA Polisher for your last machine step and then you don't have to worry about holograms.
You can then use the DA Polisher to machine apply your wax or pant sealant.
Simple Simon.
I only use wool pads for cutting.
The fibers, that is the millions of fibers that make up a wool cutting pad or even a wool FINISHING or POLISHING pad will each CUT THE PAINT and leave holograms.
Never finish with a fiber pad on a rotary buffer. Always finish with foam.
I searched your posting history to see if anywhere on our forum you mentioned what you were using for abrasive technology. Found this...
I use the makita Rotary. With the 3m 3 step.
3M makes great products but if you want to try to finish out hologram free on the widest spectrum of paint systems in the world, then you need to get an Ultra Fine Cut Polish and some Gold Foam Jeweling Pads.
A faster, easier and more consistent approach would be to simply purchase a DA Polisher and use a DA Polisher for your last machine step and then you don't have to worry about holograms.
You can then use the DA Polisher to machine apply your wax or pant sealant.
Simple Simon.