Actually i would rather use soap and water first to remove all above surface contaminants, then apply IronX for a second cleaning.
I agree.
If you want to get the most IronX bang for your buck, then first wash the car to remove any oily road film and other loose dirt that could hinder the magic ingredients in Iron X form focusing directly on it's sole purpose and that is to locate and dissolve iron particles.
That said, for the best picture effects, I like to spray directly onto a dirty car and let is soak in and do it's thing.
If I'm taking pictures, this is when I get them, as soon as I see the maximum bleeding effect. I'll try to post some from the Lotus I recently used Iron X on.
Then without washing or rinsing, I bring out the Foam Gun and foam the car, right over the top of the Iron X.
Next I wash the car using the microfiber chenille wash mitt, the mitt that looks like it's made from some sort of alien worms.
After the car is fully rinsed, IF I'm going to use the Nanoskin Wash Mitt or the Nanoskin Towel, this is where I would lay down another slather foam over the car and then rub her out good! Get all the bonded contaminants off the paint, glass and anything smooth.
Then rinse again.
Then dry.
And now I'm ready to take the "before" picture or video to document the paint condition and after that do my Test Spot, dial-in my pads, products, tools and technique.
And then after proving a successful test spot, tape off any plastic, rubber, vinyl or felt trim that I don't want to detail later with a toothbrush.
And now it's ready for the first machine polishing step whether that's,
Major correction - Compounding or Medium Cut Polish
Minor correction - Medium Cut Polish or Fine Cut Polish
One-step cleaner/wax
