How To use Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on Flex 3401

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How To use Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on Flex 3401


Last night I let all the guys try out the Nanoskin Autoscrub pads on the Flex 3401 to remove all the contaminants off Tommy's 1970 Cuda.

Here's Tommy using the 6" Nanoskin Autoscrub pad on the Flex 3401


Step 1: Spray panel down liberally using Nanoskin Glide Instant Detail Spray Lubricant

Flex3401AutoScrub002.jpg



Step 2: Set speed to the 2-3 setting and then place Nanoskin Autoscrub pad against panel and move polisher over paint using medium arm speed with overlapping passes.
Flex3401AutoScrub003.jpg



Be sure to hold pad flat to surface...

Flex3401AutoScrub004.jpg


Flex3401AutoScrub005.jpg


Flex3401AutoScrub006.jpg




Optional: Machine polish and wax paint for a perfect show car shine...

1970 Barracuda Extreme Makeover

Tommys70Cuda035.jpg


Tommys70Cuda033.jpg





On Autogeek.net

Nanoskin Car Care Products
 
Mike would any good QDer work, or do you have to use their product?
 
Does the standard flex 5.5" backing plate fit the 6" nanoskin pad best?
 
I used it last night and I would say it probably cuts the claying process time by 3\4.IMO.
 
I notice you have polishing afterwards as "optional". I'd think it would almost be mandatory. This has to mar more than Speedy towel which mars more than clay.
 
I notice you have polishing afterwards as "optional". I'd think it would almost be mandatory. This has to mar more than Speedy towel which mars more than clay.


Everyone has different opinions of what a nice finish looks like. Me? I like to work on show cars and I like them to have a show car finish so it's a no brainer to me to machine polish everything.

That said, I'm good with making a strong recommendation but each person needs to decide what's best for them and their expectations. Heck I teach people to machine polish so you and I are on the same page...


:dblthumb2:
 
Do you clean the pad during the "scrubbing" process or wait till you done the entire car? Also Mike, what's the best way of cleaning the pad once your done?
 
Do you clean the pad during the "scrubbing" process or wait till you done the entire car?

After you feel the paint and your sense of touch tells you any specific car you're going to work on is incredibly contaminated, as in the paint feels like concrete, then it's a good idea to rinse the pad in-between panels.

This is simple to do just place the pad under running water and if you don't have running water use a bucket of water.

If the paint only feels lightly contaminated then you can use your own judgment.

Kind of like cleaning pads. In a perfect world you should clean your pad after each section of paint you work to remove any built-up product or removed paint but not everyone does this.

I think we can all agree it makes sense to clean your pad, or in the context of this discussion, your Nanoskin Autoscrub pad after each section you work because that's the optimum way to work clean. That said, not everyone is going to do either of these so each person can decide for themselves what kind of "Best Practice" they are going to make a part of their "style", when it comes to detailing cars.


Also Mike, what's the best way of cleaning the pad once your done?

Well don't make it rocket science, I'm certainly not going to. Rinse with water then press out any excess water from the foam core. As an option, you could use a little soap, hand soap, car wash soap, whatever's by your source of clean water as we all know a little soap helps to remove dirt off a surface. This is a simple thing to prove, next time your hands are dirty experiment by washing them with water only and then inspect, and then wash your hands with a little soap and water and inspect, I think you'll find that a little soap helps to release dirt off your hands and that probably hold true for the "gunk" you're removing off a car that's been neglected.


Good questions, hope the above helps...


:dblthumb2:
 
After you feel the paint and your sense of touch tells you any specific car you're going to work on is incredibly contaminated, as in the paint feels like concrete, then it's a good idea to rinse the pad in-between panels.

This is simple to do just place the pad under running water and if you don't have running water use a bucket of water.

If the paint only feels lightly contaminated then you can use your own judgment.

Kind of like cleaning pads. In a perfect world you should clean your pad after each section of paint you work to remove any built-up product or removed paint but not everyone does this.

I think we can all agree it makes sense to clean your pad, or in the context of this discussion, your Nanoskin Autoscrub pad after each section you work because that's the optimum way to work clean. That said, not everyone is going to do either of these so each person can decide for themselves what kind of "Best Practice" they are going to make a part of their "style", when it comes to detailing cars.




Well don't make it rocket science, I'm certainly not going to. Rinse with water then press out any excess water from the foam core. As an option, you could use a little soap, hand soap, car wash soap, whatever's by your source of clean water as we all know a little soap helps to remove dirt off a surface. This is a simple thing to prove, next time your hands are dirty experiment by washing them with water only and then inspect, and then wash your hands with a little soap and water and inspect, I think you'll find that a little soap helps to release dirt off your hands and that probably hold true for the "gunk" you're removing off a car that's been neglected.


Good questions, hope the above helps...


:dblthumb2:

Since I've adopted your "clean your pads on the fly routine" and actually clean my foam pads after each panel, I see no reason not to continue with that routine with the Autoscrub pad. Thanks again for the advice, I'll be doing my test run with this pad in the next couple of weeks.
 
excuse my ignorance but is this just a quicker and more effective way of claying?
 
Mr.Phillips

Should I buy both grades? My 20-12 SUV received 2 coats of Collinite for winter prep+sealant after each weekly wash.I don't think I have installed swirls.
Thanks and regards.
 
Mr.Phillips

Should I buy both grades? My 20-12 SUV received 2 coats of Collinite for winter prep+sealant after each weekly wash.I don't think I have installed swirls.
Thanks and regards.

As I research the nanoskin system more, I really want to try out the pads, but almost think that wouldn't just getting the wash mitts be plenty? Follow me here: you wash, decontaminate using the pads, all the while spraying lube on the surface panel by panel and wiping, going over the entire car with the polisher, not to mention having to bring out good ol fashioned clay to get in the hard to reach areas that the pads just won't fit. If you were to just get the mitt, theoretically, couldn't you just wash, then rewash using the mitt and get the same results, plus the mitt has to be able to get into all the hard to reach areas like traditional clay? I may be wrong or overlooking something. I'm just curious, no pro, just looking for a quicker claying solution as the nanoskin seems to provide. Would like to know what others think who have used both the pad and wash mitt setups.
 
Mr.Phillips

Should I buy both grades? My 20-12 SUV received 2 coats of Collinite for winter prep+sealant after each weekly wash.I don't think I have installed swirls.
Thanks and regards.


For a daily driver in good to excellent condition stick with the fine grade.

If you're a detailer and you machine buff the paint as a part of your detail work, then get the medium grade just to work faster as time is money when detailing for dollars.




. Would like to know what others think who have used both the pad and wash mitt setups.


Use to be detailers would clay the paint as they were washing it, I have an article on tis somewhere I think. The approach "can" work but the detailer must wash and then rinse the car very well before using the clay or you'll simply contaminate the clay with the dirt you loosened but didn't rinse off the car.

With the mitt, you can remove the contaminants and then wash the mitt so contaminating the actual polymerized rubber surface isn't an issue.


I shared the working clean tip for using the Nanoskin Autoscrub Wash Mitt in paragraph 4 in this Show N' Shine thread...

Birthday Detail - Stacy's Honda


Mike Phillips said:
Next I washed the car using the new Nanoskin Autoscrub Wash Mitt but here's a tip, wash the car and RINSE it really well first and then use the Nanoskin Autoscrub Wash Mitt.

The reason for this is so after you loose any surface dirt you completely rinse the dirt off the entire car before you go over the paint with the Nanoskin Wash Mitt. By doing this you won't risk getting any loosened dirt trapped between the rubberized polymer surface and your car's paint.

The Nanoskin Wash Mitt worked great for completely removing all the contaminants. I did have to use a plastic razor blade for some tree sap on the hood and front fenders as it was stuck on the paint like epoxy glue.

After washing, rinsing, decontaminating and then rinsing a second time and drying I then taped off all the exterior plastic trim and machine buffed using Menzerna IF 1500 and followed this with Pinnacle XMT 360 Cleaner/Wax.




:)
 
I like the mits. I foam, rinse, mit with qd, dry---done. Soooooo much faster these days
 
I like the mits. I foam, rinse, mit with qd, dry---done. Soooooo much faster these days


I agree.

The Nanoskin Wash Mitts enable you to decontaminate the paint during the washing step. Just be sure to wash the car and rinse thoroughly before using the mitts to decontaminate the paint so you don't grind loose dirt into the paint.


:)
 
Would I need to wax the vehicle after using either the mitt or scrub pad? Also wonedering if the wash would be more effective if an IPA wipe down prior to using the products would make it work better?
 
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