Hydro Tech Pads...

[alko]

Do you mean while you are doing a car, or overall? I agree that you should change pads often while you are working on a car so you can laways have a clean pad. But there is no need to trash old pads if they are clean and in tact. I have plent of pads (ht and non ht) that have been used a ton, and still work like new.

Interesting...when I go back and finish the car this weekend I will do what you told me to do per our discussion on pm's.

 

[Flannigan]

Intereting...when I go back and finish the car this weekend I will do what you told me to do per our discussion on pm's.

sounds good. I understand that some people would rather be "safe than sorry" and replace pads all the time, but it just isn't needed, especially if you are working on just your own vehicles.

 

[alko]

sounds good. I understand that some people would rather be "safe than sorry" and replace pads all the time, but it just isn't needed, especially if you are working on just your own vehicles.

Oh trust me...if I don't have to throw it away then I won't LOL! But I'm afraid that with the middle collapsing like it is, more heat will be able to generate and break down the pad faster, potentially increasing the risk of damaging the car.

 

[Old Tiger]

I think there are a lot of factors such as pressure, speed, products, paint hardness, ect.

IMO the paint condition is a big factor too. I did an Infinity in pretty bad shape and two tangerine pads were black afterwards. I build the cost into the price and give the pads away after. I wash in the machine and they are still stained.

 

[RaskyR1]

I've had great results with the Hydro pads. Still haven't tried the thin ones yet though....maybe when I'm do for a reorder I'll get some.

I really only used the Tangerine and Crimson pads now as the MF pads have replaced the need for the Cyan ones. It's been a while since I've ordered new pads but I'd say I have at least 6-10 cars out of them right now and most are still like new. I do find the Cyan to be less durable than the other two.

I clean on the fly with compressed air and I usually have a 5 gal bucket of water ready to clean the pads as soon as I'm done using them. Spray with a low foaming APC and scrub gently with a pad cleaning brush, rinse well, spin dry on the rotary, then place on a wire rack face down to dry for several days. As long as you care for them properly the should last for a long time.

Key ways to KILL Hydro pads:

-Using them on a DA when they are still damp, wet, or saturated
-Using excess speed on the DA. Anything more than speed 4.5-5 on the GG6 is overkill IMO and you run the risk of cooking your pads if you use higher speeds. On the PCXP you can probably get away with speed 6 but monitor your pad temps. If you have pads where the center has caved in, it's likely from excess heat, which is common with too high of a tool speed, or overusing the pad.
-To much pressure being used with pad cleaning brush
-Snag sharp edge, trim, molding during polishing


My $.02,

Rasky

 

[alko]

I've had great results with the Hydro pads. Still haven't tried the thin ones yet though....maybe when I'm do for a reorder I'll get some.

I really only used the Tangerine and Crimson pads now as the MF pads have replaced the need for the Cyan ones. It's been a while since I've ordered new pads but I'd say I have at least 6-10 cars out of them right now and most are still like new. I do find the Cyan to be less durable than the other two.

I clean on the fly with compressed air and I usually have a 5 gal bucket of water ready to clean the pads as soon as I'm done using them. Spray with a low foaming APC and scrub gently with a pad cleaning brush, rinse well, spin dry on the rotary, then place on a wire rack face down to dry for several days. As long as you care for them properly the should last for a long time.

Key ways to KILL Hydro pads:

-Using them on a DA when they are still damp, wet, or saturated
-Using excess speed on the DA. Anything more than speed 4.5-5 on the GG6 is overkill IMO and you run the risk of cooking your pads if you use higher speeds. On the PCXP you can probably get away with speed 6 but monitor your pad temps. If you have pads where the center has caved in, it's likely from excess heat, which is common with too high of a tool speed, or overusing the pad.
-To much pressure being used with pad cleaning brush
-Snag sharp edge, trim, molding during polishing


My $.02,

Rasky

Damn...you definitely raised my eye brows. Thanks for the info on this. I am feeling the middle of the pad sometimes feel real "thick" with product but I ask myself...how is this when I don't use alot of product...only 3 pea size drops. Sometimes I'll feel the pad and it almost feels dry...then I get nervous about dry buffing. I'll clean the pad on the fly and then i'll take a brush and clean it while it spins. I see how I screwed the first pad up but using some pressure in the middle of the pad. I'm using speed 6 for the TSR. Now here's another question...I'm experiencing some light dusting...is this normal with the TSR?

 

[tw33k2514]

Product is always going to build up in the middle because of the way the buffer moves. All you can do is stay on top of cleaning, and a little thing I do is I place my product on the edges of the pad. That way it works its way into the center and gives me a little more work time before needing to clean. As for your dusting, I have never used TSR, so I have no idea. But I would guess a little is probably normal.

 

[alko]

Product is always going to build up in the middle because of the way the buffer moves. All you can do is stay on top of cleaning, and a little thing I do is I place my product on the edges of the pad. That way it works its way into the center and gives me a little more work time before needing to clean. As for your dusting, I have never used TSR, so I have no idea. But I would guess a little is probably normal.

I do the same... I try to put it as close to the edge as possible.

 

[embolism]

it's probably moot now after Chad's post but here is the state of my LC flat 6-pack after about 7 uses for the white pads, 3 one steppers with the orange, and 2 rounds of finish polishing with the blacks

 

[Flannigan]

Damn...you definitely raised my eye brows. Thanks for the info on this. I am feeling the middle of the pad sometimes feel real "thick" with product but I ask myself...how is this when I don't use alot of product...only 3 pea size drops. Sometimes I'll feel the pad and it almost feels dry...then I get nervous about dry buffing. I'll clean the pad on the fly and then i'll take a brush and clean it while it spins. I see how I screwed the first pad up but using some pressure in the middle of the pad. I'm using speed 6 for the TSR. Now here's another question...I'm experiencing some light dusting...is this normal with the TSR?

I've never used TSR but IIRC it's very similar to Menz SIP which will dust a good bit. I wouldn't worry too much about the dusting.

it's probably moot now after Chad's post but here is the state of my LC flat 6-pack after about 7 uses for the white pads, 3 one steppers with the orange, and 2 rounds of finish polishing with the blacks

Looks like those pads need to be cleaned!!! :bolt:

 

[DLB]

It's been a while since I've ordered new pads but I'd say I have at least 6-10 cars out of them right now and most are still like new. I do find the Cyan to be less durable than the other two.

I clean on the fly with compressed air...scrub gently with a pad cleaning brush, rinse well, spin dry on the rotary, then place on a wire rack face down to dry for several days. As long as you care for them properly the should last for a long time.

Key ways to KILL Hydro pads:

-Using them on a DA when they are still damp, wet, or saturated
-Using excess speed on the DA. Anything more than speed 4.5-5 on the GG6 is overkill IMO and you run the risk of cooking your pads if you use higher speeds. On the PCXP you can probably get away with speed 6 but monitor your pad temps. If you have pads where the center has caved in, it's likely from excess heat, which is common with too high of a tool speed, or overusing the pad.
-To much pressure being used with pad cleaning brush
-Snag sharp edge, trim, molding during polishing


My $.02,

Rasky

I agree 100% with the above.

I recently finished the first step of polishing out my Black '03 Dodge Ram Quad Cab. I used M105, A Makita 9227 Rotary and PCXP (on speed 6 the whole time) with Cyan HT Pads. I did the entire truck (including the fiberglass bed cover) in one session, and used 4 pads total.

Two key points though to why I think it went well for me:
•Don't over saturate the pads with product. I have done this with these pads and with M105/205 and the results are non-existent. You will be more aggravated than anything. I didn't even fully prime the pads to cut down on how much product built up (I did do a light prime though the first time using a pad). Then, use a few small drops of product (D/A) or a thin bead (rotary).

•Do a compressed air/light brush clean on the pad you are using often, and totally switch pads after every small section. This is how I kept my pad temps down. After some extended work times I could tell the pads were a little warm, but I swapped them out often and they never overheated. Also by doing a thorough compressed air clean and brushing the pads never got caked up nor too dirty.

I have been trying to figure out just how many pads it takes to do any given project so that I can adjust prices accordingly. I have gotten away with two pads on a car before without any time loss, but that was pushing it. At some point you are going to lose cutting ability. It seems like 3 pads is the threshold for me.

I am debating on whether or not to buy more H/T pads, or just wait for the Opt. M/F to be done and use that system. Since I do use a rotary still in some spots, I like that option on them. The H/T's have served me well though, and I would gladly buy them again - I just like the idea of a pad that will outlive foam.

FWIW, I have had two Orange CCS pads die on me in a shorter span that any H/T pads. Different factors, but part of it was how the pads were abused.

DLB

 

[alko]

I agree 100% with the above.

I recently finished the first step of polishing out my Black '03 Dodge Ram Quad Cab. I used M105, A Makita 9227 Rotary and PCXP (on speed 6 the whole time) with Cyan HT Pads. I did the entire truck (including the fiberglass bed cover) in one session, and used 4 pads total.

Two key points though to why I think it went well for me:
•Don't over saturate the pads with product. I have done this with these pads and with M105/205 and the results are non-existent. You will be more aggravated than anything. I didn't even fully prime the pads to cut down on how much product built up (I did do a light prime though the first time using a pad). Then, use a few small drops of product (D/A) or a thin bead (rotary).

•Do a compressed air/light brush clean on the pad you are using often, and totally switch pads after every small section. This is how I kept my pad temps down. After some extended work times I could tell the pads were a little warm, but I swapped them out often and they never overheated. Also by doing a thorough compressed air clean and brushing the pads never got caked up nor too dirty.

I have been trying to figure out just how many pads it takes to do any given project so that I can adjust prices accordingly. I have gotten away with two pads on a car before without any time loss, but that was pushing it. At some point you are going to lose cutting ability. It seems like 3 pads is the threshold for me.

I am debating on whether or not to buy more H/T pads, or just wait for the Opt. M/F to be done and use that system. Since I do use a rotary still in some spots, I like that option on them. The H/T's have served me well though, and I would gladly buy them again - I just like the idea of a pad that will outlive foam.

FWIW, I have had two Orange CCS pads die on me in a shorter span that any H/T pads. Different factors, but part of it was how the pads were abused.

DLB

Thanks for the reply! I appreciate it. I am going to try cleaning with compressed air. I was thinking about my priming techniques last night and I thought I've been using too much product to prime, which would allow for easily over saturation. I will be continuing on this project tonight.

 

[The Pad Man]

I totally agree with Rasky 100%

 

[FASTFRED]

Very good information in this thread:dblthumb2:
Thanks all.

 

[alko]

Very good information in this thread:dblthumb2:
Thanks all.

I know right?! Thats why I love this place!

 

[Chris's FX4]

Very good information in this thread:dblthumb2:
Thanks all.

:iagree:


This is very informative.