I am questionning my technique or my patience

primo spaghetti said:
for me, i like Menz polishes on BMW ceramic clears...

also when you say 6 section passes...make sure your meeting the definition of a section pass...

one pass back and forth in your 12 x 12 area PLUS one pass up and down in that same 12 x 12 area is ONE section pass...
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Hum... ok so no I was counting one section pass as the whole area covered once (left to right back and forth OR up and down back and forth). So I was doing 3-4 section passes then. Ok will have to double that. That might be the problem.

Thanks!
 
ekennett said:
Leaving rids behind after polishing out swirls is fairly common. When the car is swirled its hard to differentiate the depth of all the scratches. That gets revealed as you Polish. You have to decide if the rids are worth going after or if taking away more paint it too risky. Also you might be expecting too much from 105. Try following with a lighter polish, like 205 on a white pad and see if it cleans up the marring.

Sent from my Transformer using AG Online
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Ya I always follow up with 205, I use a green pad because white pads were back ordered when I placed my pad order. Will order some with my next order, but I doubt it will change much in terms of removing scratches. 105 finishes really nice, almost doesn't need a polish. Once I double the amount of passes I do that might change.
 
primo spaghetti said:
for me, i like Menz polishes on BMW ceramic clears...

also when you say 6 section passes...make sure your meeting the definition of a section pass...

one pass back and forth in your 12 x 12 area PLUS one pass up and down in that same 12 x 12 area is ONE section pass...
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Huh?? From what I've been reading and in all the videos I've seen one pass is left to right or up and down. Can someone confirm this
 
matryx said:
Huh?? From what I've been reading and in all the videos I've seen one pass is left to right or up and down. Can someone confirm this
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Semantics. Just polish the paint until you safely achieve your desired appearance goals.
 
primo spaghetti said:
here is what i mean. i consider this one section pass...





good point...
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:iagree: that to me is one complete section pass.

I also agree with the semantics comment. Keep it simple and just polish until you achieve the desired finish. I think the importance in working more controlled and accounted section passes comes more into play when using diminishing abrasive compounds/polishes.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I think the importance in working more controlled and accounted section passes comes more into play when using diminishing abrasive compounds/polishes.
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:iagree: another very good point.

IMO, M105/205 has a bit of a learning curve...

if you're open to suggestions, i like Menz FG400 and Sf4500, or Menz PG1000 (if needed) and SF 4500, or, PF 2500 and SF4500.

remember, not all paints are going to react the same to the products either. unfortunately there is just not a simple "recipe" if you will. its alot of trial and error.

For me, the ceramic clears always get Menz, and SF4500 is my go to polish 99% of the time.
 
Rsurfer said:
Slow down your arm speed (1" per second) and 15lbs. of pressure.
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Really like this description of arm speed. Excellent advice and makes a significant difference that can be seen visually in short order.
 
primo spaghetti said:
:iagree: another very good point.

IMO, M105/205 has a bit of a learning curve...

if you're open to suggestions, i like Menz FG400 and Sf4500, or Menz PG1000 (if needed) and SF 4500, or, PF 2500 and SF4500.

remember, not all paints are going to react the same to the products either. unfortunately there is just not a simple "recipe" if you will. its alot of trial and error.

For me, the ceramic clears always get Menz, and SF4500 is my go to polish 99% of the time.
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:iagree:
Menzerna is a Godsend for ceramiclears!!!
 
how do you know what type of paint/clearcoat the vehicle has?
 
swanicyouth said:
I have no idea how guys wash, clean wheels, clean / protect interior and carpets, clay, do a 2 step polish, dress trim and tires, and apply LSP to a car in 6-8 hours with a regular DA. I just have no idea. That's 2 or 3 long days for me to do that work so it's right. Using a different machine and MF pads may speed up the process - which is important if your doing it for cash. I hope you are not trying to learn how to do this on a customer's car.
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Man am I glad to hear you say this!!! I feel the same way especially when you throw in an IronX treatment, some time for taping and then clean up I'm always at 2-3 days and I just thought it was my old age.
 
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