I been defeated!! Detailer discreation is advised

[Wheelzntoys]

Did you try a specific water remover? Some contain Muriatic acid or some other type and made to remove spots (use with caution).

 

[MarkD51]

Looks like the fine water we have down here, which is often loaded with what they call Caliche here.

These sprinkler systems often use what's referred to as recycled non-potable water.

I know some have suggested sanding, but wouldn't something like a Clay Bar work? I guess it depends on if the water has also actually etched the paint?

A suggestion of some type of acidic wash might help, (How about Kaboom? LOL) but I'd be worried about something like that effecting trim, badges, and other areas of the car.

 

[david11g35]

Holy smokes, I have never seen so much water spot in my life. Was this just over night? That's insane.

Water spots were on the car for 4 days before I gor th car

Yeah, how long were those spots on there? I think some decon acid would have been my first step before any compounding.

water spots were there for 4 days

Why not try sanding first and then compounding and see if the marks go away? Is it even possible to sue someone if that happens to you? The problem should be fixed by them if they failed to warn you that their sprinklers were bad.

I would try sanding down, just be careful. It's the only last step you can take, it's going to be repainted anyways so might as well try to see if sanding will take off the marks.

If you don't know how to properly sand or need help with it, i'm in Los Angeles as well and can give you a hand.

I was going to try sanding but I do t have the proper tools to remove sanding marks from th whole car.

Ouch that hurts! I have never seen spotting that bad before.

Maybe see if someone around you has wool and a rotary to give it one last shot before a re spray?

I might try to give it another shot

Did you try a specific water remover? Some contain Muriatic acid or some other type and made to remove spots (use with caution).

Only water spots remover I have ever tried was cchemical guys and it didnt work on spots way less severe than this


Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[HardLineDetail]

What machine do you have? Even a 7424xp can take the marks off. You just need to go through a multiple process with the sanding papers. Example starting with 1500 then going with 2000 and then with 2500 and then removing the marks. I can easily remove 1500 marks with my 105 or menzerna SIP. If you are gently, you won't take much clearcoat if you know what you're doing. Since its been only a week, the WM's aren't that deep.

 

[david11g35]

Looks like the fine water we have down here, which is often loaded with what they call Caliche here.

These sprinkler systems often use what's referred to as recycled non-potable water.

I know some have suggested sanding, but wouldn't something like a Clay Bar work? I guess it depends on if the water has also actually etched the paint?

A suggestion of some type of acidic wash might help, (How about Kaboom? LOL) but I'd be worried about something like that effecting trim, badges, and other areas of the car.

Forgot to mentioned the car was clayed...

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[david11g35]

What machine do you have? Even a 7424xp can take the marks off. You just need to go through a multiple process with the sanding papers. Example starting with 1500 then going with 2000 and then with 2500 and then removing the marks. I can easily remove 1500 marks with my 105 or menzerna SIP. If you are gently, you won't take much clearcoat if you know what you're doing. Since its been only a week, the WM's aren't that deep.

Yes I have the xp. I have moved sanding marks with it before but only for smaller areas...It crossed my mind to try it but time was a factor. I was suppose to return the car the next morning by noon. And here I thought it was gonna be a easy one step when she contacted me
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[HardLineDetail]

If they are less than one week old, im not sure why they can't be taken off using the machine and a yellow pad and a compound like 105. I would think that pads like surbuf would take them off.

My mom called me that her honda had really hard water spots that been there for months. I removed them with surbuf pad and 105.

 

[david11g35]

If they are less than one week old, im not sure why they can't be taken off using the machine and a yellow pad and a compound like 105. I would think that pads like surbuf would take them off.

I tried but it didnt remove them just made them lighter. It left etching behind from the spots. I have remove sanding marks with that combo it didnt work on this

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tuscarora dave]

Yeah, how long were those spots on there? I think some decon acid would have been my first step before any compounding.

I tend to agree with Mike here and would take it even further. I'd be after those mineral deposits with an acid based wheel cleaner such as Poorboy's World Spray and Rinse or another equivalent product, working in small manageable work sections as to not allow the product to dry on the paint or go down into cracks where it can't be rinsed back out thoroughly. Spray it on, work it with either a brush or a sponge or what have you, then rinse it with lots of water before moving on to the next section.

So many people are so quick to just jump on something like this with heavy abrasives or worse yet start sanding as a first step. I see over and over that the answer to hard water mineral deposits is one of a chemical nature. It's been posted here over and over by many people throughout the years where vinegar (acetic acid) is the first step to softening light mineral deposits before using some sort of polish (preferably a chemical polish) to remove the remaining mineral deposits, then at that point inspect the paint to see what further corrections will be necessary.

Now it's obvious of course by looking at the photos that the OP is not dealing with light mineral deposits, but rather very severe mineral deposits which may or may not have already etched deeply into the paint. So if a light concentration of acid like what's in vinegar will help to soften a light concentration of mineral deposits...raise the level of mineral deposits...raise the level of acid concentration...enter the acid based wheel cleaner which is not a super high concentration of acid, but a high enough concentration to be effective on clear coated wheels without melting off the clear coat or etching deeply into it when used with some common sense and following the directions.

It works on severe wheels and it will also work a severe case of mineral deposits on the painted surfaces of the car...again...if used with the same common sense that which you would use it on a wheel which would be ... make sure the surface is not hot...if it is, then rinse it with cool running water to cool it off or take it into the shade to work on it...spray the acid on in one manageable work area...you wouldn't go and spray all 4 wheels at the same time then take your time with the first wheel as the acid is etching into the other 3 wheels would you? No...you'd do one wheel at a time as to manage the work that the acid does as you mechanically agitate it with a brush before thoroughly rinsing. Agitate with your favorite device of agitation whether it be a brush, towel, wax applicator etc. then rinse before moving on to another section to begin the same process all over again.

Another thing I've found through the process of constantly traveling outside the box in testing different products in different situations that come to me through the years, is that a good metal polish (machine applied with a soft foam finishing pad) will work well at removing the remaining mineral deposits in a non abrasive way, leaving you in the end with a clean paint surface that can then be properly inspected to see if abrasives will be a necessary follow up step.

By taking a chemical approach to a problem like in the OP's photos, you give the clear coat a sporting chance at surviving this debacle. Jumping right in with rocks in a bottle and wool pad with a rotary, or worse yet..."just sand it" destroys any possibility of preserving as much clear coat as possible.

The above is not my opinion, nor is it a guess on my part. It's knowledge from constantly testing different products and procedures in different situations as they come at me. As a professional detailer who wishes to "break the mold" that the larger percentage of the industry has cast, it's my business to know such things.

Just my 2 cents on the subject, hope it helps someone. TD

 

[david11g35]

I tend to agree with Mike here and would take it even further. I'd be after those mineral deposits with an acid based wheel cleaner such as Poorboy's World Spray and Rinse or another equivalent product, working in small manageable work sections as to not allow the product to dry on the paint or go down into cracks where it can't be rinsed back out thoroughly. Spray it on, work it with either a brush or a sponge or what have you, then rinse it with lots of water before moving on to the next section.

So many people are so quick to just jump on something like this with heavy abrasives or worse yet start sanding as a first step. I see over and over that the answer to hard water mineral deposits is one of a chemical nature. It's been posted here over and over by many people throughout the years where vinegar (acetic acid) is the first step to softening light mineral deposits before using some sort of polish (preferably a chemical polish) to remove the remaining mineral deposits, then at that point inspect the paint to see what further corrections will be necessary.

Now it's obvious of course by looking at the photos that the OP is not dealing with light mineral deposits, but rather very severe mineral deposits which may or may not have already etched deeply into the paint. So if a light concentration of acid like what's in vinegar will help to soften a light concentration of mineral deposits...raise the level of mineral deposits...raise the level of acid concentration...enter the acid based wheel cleaner which is not a super high concentration of acid, but a high enough concentration to be effective on clear coated wheels without melting off the clear coat or etching deeply into it when used with some common sense and following the directions.

It works on severe wheels and it will also work a severe case of mineral deposits on the painted surfaces of the car...again...if used with the same common sense that which you would use it on a wheel which would be ... make sure the surface is not hot...if it is, then rinse it with cool running water to cool it off or take it into the shade to work on it...spray the acid on in one manageable work area...you wouldn't go and spray all 4 wheels at the same time then take your time with the first wheel as the acid is etching into the other 3 wheels would you? No...you'd do one wheel at a time as to manage the work that the acid does as you mechanically agitate it with a brush before thoroughly rinsing. Agitate with your favorite device of agitation whether it be a brush, towel, wax applicator etc. then rinse before moving on to another section to begin the same process all over again.

Another thing I've found through the process of constantly traveling outside the box in testing different products in different situations that come to me through the years, is that a good metal polish (machine applied with a soft foam finishing pad) will work well at removing the remaining mineral deposits in a non abrasive way, leaving you in the end with a clean paint surface that can then be properly inspected to see if abrasives will be a necessary follow up step.

By taking a chemical approach to a problem like in the OP's photos, you give the clear coat a sporting chance at surviving this debacle. Jumping right in with rocks in a bottle and wool pad with a rotary, or worse yet..."just sand it" destroys any possibility of preserving as much clear coat as possible.

The above is not my opinion, nor is it a guess on my part. It's knowledge from constantly testing different products and procedures in different situations as they come at me. As a professional detailer who wishes to "break the mold" that the larger percentage of the industry has cast, it's my business to know such things.

Just my 2 cents on the subject, hope it helps someone. TD

Wow dave thanks for the great info

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tuscarora dave]

I tried but it didnt remove them just made them lighter. It left etching behind from the spots. I have remove sanding marks with that combo it didnt work on this

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

The physical nature of the problem should be looked at very closely here. Which is that mineral deposits are super hard. The abrasives in M-105 are also super hard. I don't believe anyone really knows which is harder though...the mineral deposits or the abrasives found in the compound.

If the mineral deposits are harder than the abrasives in M-105 then wouldn't it make sense that the abrasives would not effectively abrade away the mineral deposits? The problem in trying this is what's happening to the softer paint in between the spots of super hard mineral deposits that are stuck to the paint.

As you work the M-105 against the paint in an attempt to remove the mineral deposits the abrasives are having a hard time removing the super hard minerals, but they're not having a very hard time of removing the clear paint in between the spots of mineral deposits. So as you work and work and see very little mineral deposits being removed, what you don't see is that the clearcoat in between all the spots of mineral deposits is being removed.

A lot of folks at this point, start to get frustrated and think..." Oh, I know what I'll do...I'll get some 3M Super Duty, that'll surely remove these mineral deposits.." Of course this decision is only going to remove even more clearcoat as it removes the remaining mineral deposits. In the end, you'll have reduced the film build of the clearcoat, most likely to the point where the the UV protectors are either abraded off or significantly reduced, causing clearcoat failure not too far down the road.

The chemical polishes out there, while they will remove some clearcoat, they'll remove a lot less than abrasive compounds will. The chemical polishes out there are also much more efficient at dissolving the mineral deposits at the same time as saving a lot of the clearcoat. By doing the acid wash first, you dissolve/remove the larger scales of mineral deposits that would otherwise become lodged in your pad causing even more damage to the clear than what the abrasives would do.

Once the minerals are effectively removed with the chemicals, you're left with more clear coat on the car and then you can make a more accurate and objective decision as to what needs to be done to finish off the project.

Just some insight as I see things, hope it helps someone. TD

 

[tuscarora dave]

Wow dave thanks for the great info

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

You're quite welcome. Just trying to earn my spot here at the Geek. :xyxthumbs:

 

[74 thing]

Is that in Los Angeles?

The drinking water in Los Angeles is terribe to begin with so I am sure that the water used for irrigation is even worse. I am sure it is some recycled or less refined water especially since it is CA.

Maybe contact one of the Los Angeles detailers like Joe at Superior Shine and see if he has encountered this problem before and if he can offer you any suggestions.

 

[david11g35]

Is that in Los Angeles?

The drinking water in Los Angeles is terribe to begin with so I am sure that the water used for irrigation is even worse. I am sure it is some recycled or less refined water especially since it is CA.

Maybe contact one of the Los Angeles detailers like Joe at Superior Shine and see if he has encountered this problem before and if he can offer you any suggestions.

Yes its LA county. City of La Mirada to be exact. Its about 35 mins from where I live

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[cardaddy]

While not a technical approach to the fix, I know what'll fix it.

Get a sledge hammer! First to the sprinklers, next to the neighbor (should he choose not to open his checkbook). :joking:
In any event, that IS an insurance claim. They'll pay for the detailing (and should it not work, which IMHO I'd insist on a repaint for a MB) for the repaint. If your cousin files the claim first, her company will subrogate to the neighbors company. It his highly likely that his homeowners is actually liable for the claim! I'd approach him, give him photos. and ask for the name of his insurance company. If he doesn't want to provide it, file a police report (for her insurance company) then file a claim. They WILL go after the one at fault, if for no other reason than to get their money back.

 

[ihaveacamaro]

You're quite welcome. Just trying to earn my spot here at the Geek. :xyxthumbs:

I think you've done that many times over TD rops:

 

[david11g35]

Correction. Water spots were there for almost two weeks not 4 days

 

[JDGolden]

Wow! Worst I have ever seen for sure. In for future updates.

 

[rmagnus]

Correction. Water spots were there for almost two weeks not 4 days

That's nasty. If I can help you out let me know. I'm in OC. I've got RB, Flex 3401 and PC with a variety of pads wool and foam. I agree with Dave's advise. Try to break down the spotting with chemicals first, clay and buff. I'm pretty sure you can save the paint and not have to respray it.

That car needs to be parked somewhere other in the line of fire.

 

[david11g35]

That's nasty. If I can help you out let me know. I'm in OC. I've got RB, Flex 3401 and PC with a variety of pads wool and foam. I agree with Dave's advise. Try to break down the spotting with chemicals first, clay and buff. I'm pretty sure you can save the paint and not have to respray it.

That car needs to be parked somewhere other in the line of fire.

Thank you for the offer. I will keep it in mind. Im going to try daves advice see how that goes