I need a new DA

[dlc95]

Don't disagree. However, I'd like some input on when/why to use a different tool to get faster results or to get them with less effort.

I did my wife's Boxster with a GG6. Got very nice paint correction after a lot of time and sweat. Tried various compound and pad combos and it's just tough to get good correction on hard paint with curves, and even harder on convex panels. If I wanted to make life easier what would be a good choice for that car and and why? I think the answer is forced rotation, but I'm not really sure. (btw, not planning to compound that Boxster again so I don't need a new tool).

It depends. I used to be able to out cut my 3401 with my PC 7424xp all things being equal. The microfiber pads are a tremendous benefit to the random orbital polishes though, however the 3401 can spin a traditional wool pad - no problem.

 

[2pennies]

Don't disagree. However, I'd like some input on when/why to use a different tool to get faster results or to get them with less effort.

I did my wife's Boxster with a GG6. Got very nice paint correction after a lot of time and sweat. Tried various compound and pad combos and it's just tough to get good correction on hard paint with curves, and even harder on convex panels. If I wanted to make life easier what would be a good choice for that car and and why? I think the answer is forced rotation, but I'm not really sure. (btw, not planning to compound that Boxster again so I don't need a new tool).

For me here, I think the obvious answer is you move to a new tool for more power, improved correction over larger areas, more quality or all of the above. I love the GG6 but if I had any more vehicles needing correction, i'd be forced to move to a better tool to get the job done faster.

Rotary is something I don't have interest in learning at the moment and a flex, with forced rotation, is too close for comfort. However, if a dealer comes calling for my services, i'll have one in my AG cart in 2 blinks. For newbies and Weekend guys like me and a few others in this thread, the need for higher end tools is minimal because we can afford NOT to worry as much over time on a car/panel/step. You pros, however, have to decide based on volume, job type, customer type, etc. The choice, and thus the answer, is not so simple.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Don't disagree. However, I'd like some input on when/why to use a different tool to get faster results or to get them with less effort.

I did my wife's Boxster with a GG6. Got very nice paint correction after a lot of time and sweat. Tried various compound and pad combos and it's just tough to get good correction on hard paint with curves, and even harder on convex panels. If I wanted to make life easier what would be a good choice for that car and and why? I think the answer is forced rotation, but I'm not really sure. (btw, not planning to compound that Boxster again so I don't need a new tool).

Flex 3401. Have Flex, Rupes 15, GG6, Rupes Mini.

Wanna get it done quick? Flex.

Wanna enjoy getting it done? Rupes.

Flex is a hammer, Rupes a scalpel.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[RippyD]

Thanks BP1. Let me ask you these specific questions:

• You've got to a Boxster or Cayman with heavy swirls. (Hard to imagine if you haven't done one before - the GG6 doesn't want to spin with any pressure in the concave curves.) Given this, what machine would you reach for? Would you use it just for those areas or the whole car given that it's almost nothing but curves (excepting the hood).
• Same question for the Boxster but it needs minor correction (polish or paint cleaner only)
• You have a large SUV to correct. What's your go-to for correction given that it's mostly large, flat panels? I assume a long-stroke?

If you can't answer b/c it's an "it depends" answer, I get it and will let it go. Thanks.