I tried 3 new things...Dr Colorchip, jeweling my paint and Opticoat 2.0...

slammin86

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Overall all three were a success.

I started out with a pinnacle wash followed by zaino clay for the bad spots (around the wheels and front end) and sonus clay on the rest. I used wolfgang lube.

When the claying was done I went onto DR Colorchip. My car had some road rash on the front bumper and also on the fenders behind all of the tires. The Dr Colorchip worked great on the road rash, but the front bumper is in pretty bad shape anyway. It has some stress cracks in the paint from a run in with a deer. The whole Dr Colorchip process took about 3 hours.

Then I began the correction process on my paint using my old PC. I really never let it get too bad so I was able to tackle it with pretty mild products. I used menzerna PO106FA on a 4" white spot pad on the bad areas, and used PO106FA on a red 5.5" sonus pad for the rest of the car. The red 5.5 really has no cutting power so I was just working the polish. Everything turned out good except for the carbon fiber hood. This is my first time polishing it as it is only a few months old. There were lots of RIDS that I did not want to mess with. Since it is carbon fiber they aren't noticeable anyway.

I then attempted to jewel the paint with PO85RD and a blue LC smartpad. While I do not know if this worked or not it did seem to add something to the finish. I feel it was worth it.

I then pulled it out for a quick wash. Then back to the garage for an IPA wipedown. Now it's time for the Opticoat 2.0.

I have read write up's and watched videos and it seems everyone has their own way of doing this so I jumped in on the trunk lid. I did this in my garage with my shop lights aimed at the ceiling. This put a nice white reflection across the surfaces of my car so that I could keep track of the streaks and try to keep everything in check.

I started on the trunk lid by doing half of it to get a feel for it. Then I moved onto the roof and by the time I was done with half the roof I had a good feel for it. I ended up doing the whole car 2x and the windows 1x. I used about 4CC or whatever the unit is of the product.

I was hesitant about using the applicator that they supplied but I did anyway. In the past using this type of applicator with waxes caused very light micromaring on the delicate soft black paint...lol. And when I was all done and pulled it out into the sunlight I see that this one did too. Next time I will try a microfiber applicator which I have always used on sealants in the past.

When I pulled it out for inspection after I was all done there were a few high spots from where the opticoat flashed and hardened without me knocking it down. I was able to use some PO85RD and a hand applicator with light pressure and get rid of these. I do not know if it removed the opticoat or not but when I do the camry in a few weeks I will touch up these areas on my car.

Anyway overall everything seemed to be a success. The whole process took about 25 hours over 4 days.

Well here are some pictures.

Naked paint.




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I sure do hate cleaning around these emblems...they always get so nasty.

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Naked paint does weird things with water.

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Any my IPA wipedown is complete.

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This area had a lot of road rash...Dr color chip worked as advertised.

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And opticoat is done. I have never seen the paint "glow" like this before.

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And a few outside shots. I rolled the car out to take these. I was going to pull the car somewhere else and take more but my battery was dead. LOL.

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Oh, and I am still rocking the stock 17's cause they are cool lol. Disregard the headlight armor install gone bad. I am going to redo that soon. I am also going to change back to the powdercoated 18's soon.

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And I got more carbon fiber cause I am a ricer.

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Well thanks for reading my very long thread LOL.
 
I would say you're success measures are 3 and 0 right now and your GTO came out spectacular. The way the flake sets against the black looks gorgeous in direct sun and Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 will keep it locked in and protected...

Fantastic photos and write up!! :props:
 
Wow the flake in the paint really pops. Great work and thanks for sharing the pics.
 
Very nice! You made some wise choices with your methods. It is difficult to get soft black paint to jewel that well. Again, great work.

-Sparty
 
Looks good.

How long would you say it took to opti-coat the whole car?
 
Looks good.

How long would you say it took to opti-coat the whole car?

I did all the painted surfaces two times and the glass once. It took between 2 and 3 hours. I bet I could redo it in about half the time now though because I have a better feel for it.

In fact, I will probably remove this micro marring and redo it with a microfiber pad in the near future.
 
Got the wheels washed and clayed today. Lots of tar removal on the inside. IPA wipedown and opticoat soon to follow.

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Did you paint the wheels?

Why are they silver in your pictures from yesterday and now they are dark grey? lol
 
Did you paint the wheels?

Why are they silver in your pictures from yesterday and now they are dark grey? lol

They look stock painted. They're also a different set of rims; if you look at them, there's a few differences between the black and silver ones. I can only assume the silver rims are for his winter tires haha
 
Yeah the wheels are powdercoated stock 18s. The stock 17s on the car have all season tires on them cause I was driving it some in the cold this winter.
 
Hi, thanks for the great review. I'm still a newbie to this. ? After you did the DR Colorchip did you avoid those areas when doing the correction, or is the Colorchip paint pretty permanent ? Was the DR process as easy as they make it look on the commercials. Did you have any scratches to fill or just all nicks? Thanks, Spiney- Dave
 
Hi, thanks for the great review. I'm still a newbie to this. ? After you did the DR Colorchip did you avoid those areas when doing the correction, or is the Colorchip paint pretty permanent ? Was the DR process as easy as they make it look on the commercials. Did you have any scratches to fill or just all nicks? Thanks, Spiney- Dave

I did the Dr Colorchip and let it set for about 36 hrs before touching it. Was it long enough? That I do not know but I did not have anymore time to wait. I did go over them with my pc and then opticoat.

The Dr Colorchip worked great for road rash but not for chips. Any larger spot and the remover stuff would just pull all the paint out. I did try it on a scratch and it did not work. If you look close you can see the road rash, but it hides it well from a few feet.

If you use it for road rash and do not let it sit on the paint very long it is a breeze. The longer it sits the more work it is to remove.
 
I was able to get the cold weather wheels off and begin tackling the brake calipers.

I put some cardboard on the ground under them then I let them soak with some megs apc and then hit them with a toothbrush. This didn't quite cut it so I hit them with some foaming wheel cleaner (some crap autozone brand that I don't use on the wheels). This ate through it pretty good. I then put a bucket under them and used a spray bottle to wash the crap off. I believe this is good enough to clay bar them tomorrow. The king springs look crappy too...might do something with them.

It looks like I might need to do some touchup paint on the calipers. Christ.

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Then I did a quick spraydown of the exhaust tips. I will polish them and put opticoat on them also.

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Hi, thanks for the great review. I'm still a newbie to this. ? After you did the DR Colorchip did you avoid those areas when doing the correction, or is the Colorchip paint pretty permanent ? Was the DR process as easy as they make it look on the commercials. Did you have any scratches to fill or just all nicks? Thanks, Spiney- Dave

You asked the same question I had, I have quite few places on my truck to fix, it is a truck after all.... With all these products on the market a new guy like me has a hard time deciding. I have the Zaino on now, but might try Blackfire or Opticoat (though I am not sure if I am ready to tackle Opticoat) Thank You for the write up...
 
Here's what Dr. Colorchip has to say about detailing:

"Wash & dry the vehicle. Do any "hard" detailing first, like wet-sanding, compounding and buffing. Then use our paint. Follow up with standard waxing a week later. Refrain from using a circular buffing wheel and wool pad for at least 30 days. We suggest using a random-orbit buffer with a foam pad and quality compound at all times for the best, swirl-free results (rather than the circular buffer and wool pad.)"
 
So I need to compound first then fill in the chips?

How long did you wait before applying OC on the chips?
 
I'll be doing an almost identical correction to a 2007 Avalon this week. I'll be using your write up for reference. Thanks for posting
 
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