I want to get a rotary but im scared

[Ivan Rajic]

Can any one tell me how the vibrations are on the UDM

SEARCH "UDM" here, go to autopia.org and SEARCH "UDM" there as well... SEARCH is the key word here, and UDM is the keyword for the search... SEARCH

 

[TOGWT]

If you're serious about paint correction and / or becoming a professional detailer a HS Rotary is the tool to master. Obtain some scrap panels and Practice...Practice...Practice...

Rotary Polisher:
A high-speed polishing machine (Porter-Cable 7428, a Makita, DeWalt, Metabo, Hitachi, etc, which are all fine high-speed rotary machines) that have a direct-drive with selectable speed control that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions. Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced detailers to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a Velcro baking plate, foam pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using their high (revolution) speed and friction heat to enable compounds to abrade the paint film surface that require more power /speed than a random orbital buffer can provide.
(See also Section 13 HS Rotary Polisher)

Common mistakes -
1. Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (become progressively smaller) to create a great finish or you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off.
2. Ensure a ‘wet’ polishing film is always present between your pad and the surface. Swirls are usually caused d by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove spritz the pad with a quick detailer or distilled water (do not add further polish) and re-polish using the polish left on the pad.
3. ‘Buffer hop’ is when the rotary jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD)
4. High RPM i.e. >1700 will cause high surface temperatures (should be limited to 1000F / 300 C<) 1150F
450 C will damage clear coat to the point were it requires repainting.
5. The HS Rotary requires no more pressure than that required to ‘hold’ it on the paint surface

Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm. 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects
(See also Compounding / Polishing)

 

[Thejoyofdriving]

aaaaaaaa, i your #'s are way off there bud, i dont think clear coat can stand up to 1000F (paper burns at 451F) . But thanks for your help. I gess i am going to go with a UDM, the rotary still scares me too much and it costs big bucks. I just am not ready to risk it yet, hopefuly the UMD will solve my vibration problem, if not, well then i guess i will have to get another orbiter or a rotary.

 

[tod071]

Festool Rotex and Metabo is the marriage made in heaven and a penniless pocketbook! 500 for the Festool + 330 for the Metabo. Festool actually has the rotary capability up to 600/900rpm (?? not sure which one), so if you're only looking at that speed, the Festool is your ideal polisher. I love the Metabo and felt comfortable with it after my 1st try (a customer's Jeep, btw).

 

[FMINUS]

I am in the same boat as you, I just ordered and received the Hitachi, but I am afraid to use it. I am going to wait for OrangeZ to come over and show me the ropes.

 

[Thejoyofdriving]

you luck you have some one to coach you.

 

[tod071]

I would agree with Nica, buy and watch the Joy of Driving. The first time I used the rotary, it skipped & jumped like a flea on a dogs back. After watching the video, I was able to handle and maneuver the Metabo with 1 hand. Especially liked the polish "lines".

 

[cegcsg2]

well the only thing i am after is low vibrations, not more power.

Have you tried a pair of mechanic's gloves? some of them are anti-vibaration. If they can help to reduce the vibration from mechanic's air tools (eg: impact wrench) they should be able to help out with the rotary. Might be worth a try, certainly a lot cheaper than a new tool.

 

[FMINUS]

I would agree with Nica, buy and watch the Joy of Driving. The first time I used the rotary, it skipped & jumped like a flea on a dogs back. After watching the video, I was able to handle and maneuver the Metabo with 1 hand. Especially liked the polish "lines".

Joy of drving? or Buffing with confidence?

 

[Thejoyofdriving]

i think he ment buffing with confidence, i got the message

 

[ZoranC]

Can any one tell me how the vibrations are on the UDM

I have had a chance to compare vibrations of PC, UDM, and Festool RO 150 FEQ this weekend. PC was brand new 7336SP (6" counterweight) with 5" backing plate and 5" CCS pad. UDM was, to keep apples to apples, with "same" backing plate and pad. Rotex has with their supersoft 6" backing plate and same kind of pad but in 6"

On each of 3, 4, 5, and 6 settings UDM was more pleasant to work with than PC. I spent 5 hours working with UDM today. My arm did not hurt nor tingle afterwards. My elbow (I have chronically injured righ elbow and I am rightie) was not getting irritated even though it gets irritated easily. When it comes to vibrations between PC and UDM give me UDM anytime.

Between UDM and Festool Festool's vibrations were ... well ... that thing almost doesn't vibrate. I mean, it does vibrate but it is nothing compared to UDM. In vibration category RO 150 FEQ is clear winner with hige lead. And it better be for money it costs.

 

[tod071]

I have had a chance to compare vibrations of PC, UDM, and Festool RO 150 FEQ this weekend. PC was brand new 7336SP (6" counterweight) with 5" backing plate and 5" CCS pad. UDM was, to keep apples to apples, with "same" backing plate and pad. Rotex has with their supersoft 6" backing plate and same kind of pad but in 6"

On each of 3, 4, 5, and 6 settings UDM was more pleasant to work with than PC. I spent 5 hours working with UDM today. My arm did not hurt nor tingle afterwards. My elbow (I have chronically injured righ elbow and I am rightie) was not getting irritated even though it gets irritated easily. When it comes to vibrations between PC and UDM give me UDM anytime.

Between UDM and Festool Festool's vibrations were ... well ... that thing almost doesn't vibrate. I mean, it does vibrate but it is nothing compared to UDM. In vibration category RO 150 FEQ is clear winner with hige lead. And it better be for money it costs.

Very nice write-up. I haven't tried the UDM, but was fortunate to try out the Festool Rotex and found the same results. To add to that, the Festool doesn't have the "clanging" metal sound and doesn't bog down when pressure is added.

I liked it so much, I actually bought one and am trying to sell my PC. 4 more details should pay for it.

 

[Thejoyofdriving]

that 150 feq is a beast! 6 amps, wow, i already put my order in for the udm, but if that doesnt work out maybe i can save up and get the 150. One thing though, isnt it more of a sander, i mean , thats its main purpose. do you feel it does well as a polisher? so you can screw on a regular backing plate, or do you need to buy a special one?

 

[ZoranC]

Very nice write-up. I haven't tried the UDM, but was fortunate to try out the Festool Rotex and found the same results. To add to that, the Festool doesn't have the "clanging" metal sound and doesn't bog down when pressure is added.

I liked it so much, I actually bought one and am trying to sell my PC. 4 more details should pay for it.

Thank you! Yes, noise from Rotex is much more pleasant too, which was to be expected. However, UDMs noise is not awful. It is bit better than one from PC.

I do plan on selling my PCs but I will be keeping UDM as I feel even Rotex owners need a "PC". For carpet brushes, 4" spot pads, all that stuff that Rotex can not do due to it's backing plate mounting design.

 

[ZoranC]

that 150 feq is a beast! 6 amps, wow, i already put my order in for the udm, but if that doesnt work out maybe i can save up and get the 150. One thing though, isnt it more of a sander, i mean , thats its main purpose. do you feel it does well as a polisher? so you can screw on a regular backing plate, or do you need to buy a special one?

It is a beast, you can feel it.

Isn't it more of a sander because sanding is it's main purpose? Well, aren't PC 7424 and 7336SP sanders?

Backing plate mounting mechanism is different than one for PC/UDM/rotary/Cyclo so you can not use backing plates they are using.

 

[DanielSwe]

I come from the rotary school with Flex VV 602's and a revved up Cyclo with Flex' 1200 watt motor, that was my first gig. Rotary isn't that scary to me but you should try it on old vehicles, non-veteran and try different pads and polishes to see what happens. Nothing beats experience.

 

[TOGWT]

aaaaaaaa, i your #'s are way off there bud, i dont think clear coat can stand up to 1000F (paper burns at 451F) . But thanks for your help. I gess i am going to go with a UDM, the rotary still scares me too much and it costs big bucks. I just am not ready to risk it yet, hopefuly the UMD will solve my vibration problem, if not, well then i guess i will have to get another orbiter or a rotary.

1000F /300F or written another way 100 oF / 30 oF it is a normal convention to write degrees fahrenheit as 0F not F
And your correct CC will only stand 115 oF before it starts to soften