Idea for a "advanced" AIO detail

Artisan Detailing

Artisan Detailing

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On the latest competition ready episode...the '55 chevy Mike used a SONAX spray wax. First how well does that last? My idea would be to instead of using a AIO to just use a nice polish with more cut even 205 and then use the spray wax. Application of the spray wax seems like it would just take a few minutes. By using a polish/compound you would get a much more swirl free removal and overall better finish. Mike and others, what is your opinion on doing that compared to
a traditional AIO? Or was that spray wax a temporary(it's all
temp but I'm meaning much shorter than what a AIO delivers)thing that just provided shine for the car show competition?
 
why not use a spray wax on top of your LSP which can include an AIO...
 
Because for this thread I was trying to see if there was a way to
Do better paint correction, basically 2 step results but the same time frame as a AIO. If the spray wax is good enough it seems like it's worth it.
 
•IMO (and depending on how a person
totals-up/charges-for detailing-steps):

-Using an abrasive product; followed
by an LSP application (to me: that's a
"two-step" process)...

would have to take longer to complete;
(and time is money)...

-than by just using an All-In-One
(to me: that's a "one-step" process).



Bob
 
Bob said it spot on.

No matter how you cut it, its either 1 step or 2 step. You as a sales person can do whatever you want.
You can do a polish/spray wax and call it a one step if you want but you should educate the customer the proper terms and the differences between 1 and 2 step processes.
And then offer them a 2 step process and discount your work as a 1 step. You will have to go around the car 2 times and customer only pays you to go around car 1 time. All up to you.

Tom

Tom
 
Artisan Detailing said:
On the latest competition ready episode...the '55 chevy Mike used a SONAX spray wax.

First how well does that last?

[/quoate]


I belive we used SONAX Polymer Net Shield on the 1955 Chevy, while it is a spray on product it's not a wax but a synthetic paint sealant. Here's the link for more info and it can last up to 6 months depending upon how you wash the car or more specifically TOUCH the paint.


Sonax Polymer Net Shield, sonax polymer netshield, sonax profiline polymer netshield


Being that the 1955 Chevy is a show car - that application could last for years.


Artisan Detailing said:
My idea would be to instead of using a AIO to just use a nice polish with more cut even 205 and then use the spray wax. Application of the spray wax seems like it would just take a few minutes. By using a polish/compound you would get a much more swirl free removal and overall better finish.
Click to expand...

That's a good 2-step approach. Use a fine cut polish and then seal with a dedicated wax or sealant. The key would be to find a spray on product you like and then stick with it.



Artisan Detailing said:
Mike and others, what is your opinion on doing that compared to a traditional AIO?
Click to expand...

Both the 1-step approach end the 2-step approach have their place. It kind of comes down to you.

I use the 1-step approach on my own truck because I want to clean, polish and protect it in one step.


Artisan Detailing said:
Or was that spray wax a temporary (it's all temp but I'm meaning much shorter than what a AIO delivers) thing that just provided shine for the car show competition?
Click to expand...

The SONAX Polymer Net Shield is a non-cleaning synthetic sealant and when creating a show car finish for a show car you typically don't apply a cleaner/wax but a dedicated, non-cleaning wax, sealant or paint coating.

If you compound and polish the paint, then to use most one-step cleaner/waxes after compounding and polishing would be working backwards and you might actually dull down the results you created by using dedicated compounds and polishes.


Make sense?


What are you working on?


:)
Click to expand...
 
Everything you guys said makes sense. I guess what I was thinking was a sort of inbetween option for like 2012 and older daily drivers, not trashed but a little worn to where AIO is not quite enough hypotheticallly speaking let's say a 1 step AIO is $200 and a 2 step is $350. If you used a good polish/compound with good cut to it you could have a 2 step but your only going around the car once with the buffer. I realize the spray wax or sealant rather is "going around" the car but with no buffer it's not s huge deal. So then you could give 2 step Results for $300 and fill the gap for that certain type of car and customer. Another good thing is everything gets sealed with the SONAX product...I'm interested in using that for sure. Anyway that was my though for a kind of 1 step 2.0 or howeverbyou want to sell it. I'm just finding that I could possible fill a gap for a certain type of person and if the spray delivers the goods it's could be s way to close the deal and get properly compensated.
 
Also I didn't mean to sound impatient Mike, I know this is your section but I never expected you to reply so thanks!! I was just seeing what others thought cuz I figured there's always people on the site. Didn't mean for it to come off that way. Thanks again!! Been lurking awhile and I LOVE this site!!!
 
if i was going to polish/compound with a dedicated product, i wouldn't only use a spray wax for the main protection but instead use it as a topper (if desired). to each his or her own...
 
Artisan Detailing said:
Everything you guys said makes sense. I guess what I was thinking was a sort of inbetween option for like 2012 and older daily drivers, not trashed but a little worn to where AIO is not quite enough hypotheticallly speaking let's say a 1 step AIO is $200 and a 2 step is $350.
Click to expand...

Here is some food for thought on this:

You can essentially adjust the cut of the AIO by using different pads. More aggressive pad, more aggressive cut. This isn't always ideal, but gives you an option and for the customers at your pricepoint, IMO, it doesn't need to be "perfect". This also gives you a chance to do an add-on, with a spray wax like D156, and make a couple extra bucks for some additional protection, with minimal effort on your end.

Artisan Detailing said:
If you used a good polish/compound with good cut to it you could have a 2 step but your only going around the car once with the buffer. I realize the spray wax or sealant rather is "going around" the car but with no buffer it's not s huge deal. So then you could give 2 step Results for $300 and fill the gap for that certain type of car and customer. Another good thing is everything gets sealed with the SONAX product...I'm interested in using that for sure. Anyway that was my though for a kind of 1 step 2.0 or howeverbyou want to sell it. I'm just finding that I could possible fill a gap for a certain type of person and if the spray delivers the goods it's could be s way to close the deal and get properly compensated.
Click to expand...

You will find this will leave you with worse results than an AIO. If you just compound and expect to be able to top it, you are going to be disappointed as compounding will generally leave a bit of a haze behind. At this point you need to follow up with a polish so you've added a step. And therefore added more work.

Additionally most AIO's have more cut than a polish like M205. They sit closer to a polish than a compound, but with more cut than a polish.

Ala-cart services and bumping your pricing might be a better approach from the sales perspective.
 
I've used sonax and optimum spray wax over klasse aio. Since the klasse doesn't bead water thought I'd try that. After one good rain there was little beading on the hood. Not sure that method would please a customer if they expect water beading to last awhile. Seems to be something better for use over a sealant.
 
I would say use something with decent cut that finishes well, like Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream with a relatively aggressive pad. Then top with Ultimate Fast Finish. Hard to beat a "spray sealant" that can last well also.
 
Thanks all of you for your input. Im
Using HD speed now and get great results, it's just this certain type of car/customer I get maybe 1 or 2
A month that the HD doesn't have enough cut. I feel like 205 has more cut than most AIO's?
Either way I'm interested in finding uses for the higher end spray sealants. I'd also like to
Try Wolfgang or Mckees AIO Which I believe has more cut than HD speed But I do love HD speed and it works great for like 85%!of my daily driver custy's

This may be another thread topic or has been covered a lot but I've done a small amount of experimentation with mixing products. In one of those smaller wax dispensers input 3 parts HD speed 1 part 205 and it ended pulling water spots off of a car that HD wouldn't. This was AFTER multiple pads with the plain HD. I kinda like the mad scientist stuff!! So fun, I
Just love detailing!!! And will
try out the "Frankenstein polish waxes"' on my own cars first.
 
Problem with using PNS on a customer car is many times they will instantly start touching the paint on pick up they expect smooth and slick! PNS is not slick, smooth yes but more tactile feeling.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Artisan Detailing said:
Thanks all of you for your input. Im
Using HD speed now and get great results, it's just this certain type of car/customer I get maybe 1 or 2
A month that the HD doesn't have enough cut. I feel like 205 has more cut than most AIO's?
Either way I'm interested in finding uses for the higher end spray sealants. I'd also like to
Try Wolfgang or Mckees AIO Which I believe has more cut than HD speed But I do love HD speed and it works great for like 85%!of my daily driver custy's

This may be another thread topic or has been covered a lot but I've done a small amount of experimentation with mixing products. In one of those smaller wax dispensers input 3 parts HD speed 1 part 205 and it ended pulling water spots off of a car that HD wouldn't. This was AFTER multiple pads with the plain HD. I kinda like the mad scientist stuff!! So fun, I
Just love detailing!!! And will
try out the "Frankenstein polish waxes"' on my own cars first.
Click to expand...

Use something like menzerna 2500 then blackfire crystal seal. That would give you good cut and be quick
 
fightnews said:
Use something like menzerna 2500 then blackfire crystal seal. That would give you good cut and be quick
Click to expand...

I use Poli-Seal (AIO).

I use a green pad on DA and it works very well.

Have used on single stage and basecoat/clearcoat.

Great results and minimal effort.

It is not "show room" but dosen't take 18 hours.
 
LydiaGP said:
I would say use something with decent cut that finishes well, like Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream with a relatively aggressive pad. Then top with Ultimate Fast Finish. Hard to beat a "spray sealant" that can last well also.
Click to expand...

another great combo is megs white wax topped with ultimate quik wax...
 
Crispy said:
I use Poli-Seal (AIO).

I use a green pad on DA and it works very well.

Have used on single stage and basecoat/clearcoat.

Great results and minimal effort.

It is not "show room" but dosen't take 18 hours.
Click to expand...

Unless it's soft paint, I agree that Poli-seal is a great AIO and I ALWAYS reach for it when I can simply because I can use it directly over rubber and plastic trim to deep clean it as well as the paint. If you look at Poli-seal on the Autopia website it says "new formulation coming soon". Has anyone heard anything about the upgraded poli-seal formulation or when we can expect it to be released?
 
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