Id's this what I should expect from Second Skin Six?

I think the gloss agent in wash and gloss could be the problem as well. I don't know of any other coating that doesn't have some kind of paint stripping before application. Whether it's Panel Wipe, IPA, or a polish style paint cleanser. Always something to make sure all polishing oils are removed. It's also possible the Wash and Gloss didn't remove all the polishing oils.
 
DaveT435 said:
I think the gloss agent in wash and gloss could be the problem as well.
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Possibly, but CQuartz's water behavior is unaffected by Citrus Wash and Gloss. My point being is that its effect on non-coated cars might be actually harming the wax/ sealant and just not hiding it. I don't know for sure what it's actually doing though.
 
SYMAWD said:
Possibly, but CQuartz's water behavior is unaffected by Citrus Wash and Gloss. My point being is that its effect on non-coated cars might be actually harming the wax/ sealant and just not hiding it. I don't know for sure what it's actually doing though.
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Just to make sure we're on the same page. I'm referring to the was just prior to coating not allowing the CG coating to cross link with the paint because of the gloss inhancers or polishing oils being left on the paint. Not the wash and gloss causing issues offer the car was coated...
 
kevincwelch said:
I love the "laugh" of disappointment in the video... almost as much as like the the title, which describes 48 hours as long term.
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Yeah his reaction did give me a laugh as well. It's when you purchase a product, and you have this expectation that it's going to repel water a certain way and then you go through all of the trouble to apply it and you find out it's not exactly that type of product. But when I research surface tension as it applies to coatings/sealants/waxes, a lot of guys actually would love a coating that reacts with water how SS6 does. Chemical Guys needs to be the one that explains to the consumer before the purchase that it is a low surface tension flat and slow sheeting based coating to make sure people aren't buying a coating that is going to behave differently than what they really want.

Meguiar's used to formulate their waxes to go flatter across the panel as sheeting style waxes (Gold Class & NXT), and they still do, even with their Ultimate and NXT 2.0 that both switch over to a slower sheeting based product after a few minutes of wetting, at least with my testing. And that seems to be their dilemma coming out with a coating in the US that is going to repel water how the majority of US consumers would like it to, because it seems to me like they would like to come out with a coating that is going to leave less beading on the car to prevent water spots, by producing a lower surface tension coating to cause water to go flatter as it hits the surface and sheet off that way.

But again, we're all left wondering when a coating behaves with water like an uncoated, unprotected panel, who is to know when the bonding has been diminished and it needs to be reapplied? Another equally relevant question, if I apply Meguiar's Ultimate Paste wax, and I put water down on the surface and it's giving me crazy beading and fast sheeting after a 24 hour cure time, and 5 minutes into wetting it's now giving me flatter beads and much slower sheeting, how much did that small test affect the bonding of the product? Is my panel still protected just as well as 5 minutes beforehand? I want to believe that Meguiar's Ultimate is still "protecting" the paint, even though the surface tension qualities has changed due to the water I've allowed the surface to react to, but if I can't judge that level of protection by surface tension, what exactly do I judge any level of protection by?
 
Some people have talked about the SS6 coating on the DW forum. They are only experiencing slow sheeting also and not much beading. However, they also report that the car are staying clean with minimal water spotting and they are easier to clean. That's sure sounds like the car is protected despite the lack of water beads. There were a few products that came out in the late 1990's, early 2000's that sheeted water instead of tight beading that then rolled off. They never caught on because everyone loves water beads.
 
I found a coating that works more to my liking.

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This is the Duragloss Ceramic Coating, I bought the kit with the cleaner, applicators and a cheap MF. I used my own applicators and MF, but it turned out really good on my Hummer. I wasn't digging the way SS6 acted on my Grand Prix, so I went looking for something that could give me what I desired. I have another coating coming by the end of the week that I'll try in my new Wrangler and I'll pick from the three... But this was crazy easy to work with and looks to be delivering awesome results in a fashion that makes me feel good.

I understand that some folks like sheeting over beading, but I'm really mentally fixed on the beading thing and just can't get over it. I'm happy to have found a coating that is easy to apply and it's very forgiving and yet gives banging results by way of super aggressive beading.
 
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