I'm a little intimidated about using my 3401

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BuffaloBill

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So I have had this machine for about two years and am scared to break it out. I finally turned it on last week. Anyway, I got to thinking, the paint is really nice on my truck. It's as glossy as the day I bought it. So what I did was purchase Menzerna Super Finish 3500, Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800, and Menzerna Top Finish Machine Glaze. Apparently Menzerna's TFMG has a light abrasive with fillers, which I like.

As a new paint polisher would you start with the 3500 or 3800 and then next go around try something a little more abrasive? The truck does have orange peel but I'm not really trying to polish that off yet. I want to learn how to use the machine first. Also, the most abrasive pads I purchased were whites. Are these versatile enough for say Wolfgang's Total Swirl Remover 2000 grit or Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze 2500 grit? As I have these polishes as well. The next pads I have are gray/black and blue.

So basically, I am asking what should a new person to the dual action polishing world, using a Flex 3401, start at? What pad, what grit, what speed, and how many passes should I start out with? Like I said, the paint looks great being five years old. It's been cared for but hasn't been waxed/sealed in a year.

Thank you.
 
I was once afraid of a PC 7424 with 6in CCS pads. A little time behind the wheel and you'll gain confidence.
 
I would go to youtube if you haven't already, and search "Mike Phillips flex 3401", and watch his 29 minute demonstration. It's awesome, and I still watch it at least once a week. He has another demonstration from a detail fest event about using it for production detailing, which is also extremely informative, and a much watch for anyone new to the Flex 3401.
 
BuffaloBill said:
So I have had this machine for about two years and am scared to break it out. I finally turned it on last week. Anyway, I got to thinking, the paint is really nice on my truck. It's as glossy as the day I bought it. So what I did was purchase Menzerna Super Finish 3500, Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800, and Menzerna Top Finish Machine Glaze. Apparently Menzerna's TFMG has a light abrasive with fillers, which I like.

As a new paint polisher would you start with the 3500 or 3800 and then next go around try something a little more abrasive? Start with the least aggressive and perform a test spot to lock-in your process. The truck does have orange peel but I'm not really trying to polish that off yet. I want to learn how to use the machine first. That's good, because you cannot take out orange peel with polishes and associated pads; so you are safe. Also, the most abrasive pads I purchased were whites. Are these versatile enough for say Wolfgang's Total Swirl Remover 2000 grit or Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze 2500 grit? Yes, probably. A test spot would confirm. As I have these polishes as well. The next pads I have are gray/black and blue.

So basically, I am asking what should a new person to the dual action polishing world, using a Flex 3401, start at? What pad, what grit, what speed, and how many passes should I start out with? Like I said, the paint looks great being five years old. It's been cared for but hasn't been waxed/sealed in a year.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

See above some direct answers to your queries. What I suggest you do is to go to a junkyard and purchase a car panel to play with. Get a panel with some shine/gloss and you will have a good opportunity to get used to the device, polishes and pads without affecting your vehicle.

If you are handy with power tools you will more than likely do well with the 3401.
 
only thing I'm afraid of now is turning on my GG in my apartment complex and everyone asking me to do theirs now too! LOL
 
I cant get past the fact you bought a $350-400 machine and havent touched it for 2 years.
 
Don't over think it. You are safe with those pads and polishes. None of them are aggressive. You would have to hold the 3401 in one place for a long time to do any damage. I'd be more worried about the 3401 walking on you (because you're not used to the forced rotation) and clunking it into something on the car.
 
It's pretty easy once you do a couple panels and get comfortable and it gets the job done fast
 
dcjredline said:
I cant get past the fact you bought a $350-400 machine and havent touched it for 2 years.
Click to expand...

Or placed any protectants on the paint in a year?

Being in CO, perhaps vehicles there take less a beating (UV) than here in the desert southwest, but get hammered in other ways, like snow, and nasties on the road like sand-salt?

In any case, time does take it's toll.

I see many people today that falsely believe because the paint looks shiny (From the Clear Coat) that all is good, and that protectants don't need to be used, or used as much. And seen quite a few vehicles around the same age as yours on the verge of clear coat failure, or already has clear coat degradation, with peeling, oxidized paint turning white.

It took a good 16 or so years before I took a DA and Polishes to my own Tahoe SUV, but you can trust in those 16 years I applied more waxes, and sealants than the factory paintjob on it probably cost.

The paint on my SUV was always highly maintained, but I will say the paint looks better today by far than it did 6-8 years ago.

There's countless tutorial videos out there on the web, both by Mike Phillips, and others.
One doesn't necessarily have to watch a specific Flex 3401 Vid to learn and understand the basics of detailing, and polishing, but it does certainly help to get to know your specific machine, and to get the best abilities from it.

Nothing wrong with starting out with fine polishes, and it is often better to do less, than do too much. Learn the process of doing a test spot with 2-3 products on a panel section. See what works best, in both quality of finish, ease of work, and then simply repeat the process over the rest of the vehicle.

If it is hard for you to get the time to maintain your vehicle with protectants, then do consider durable products to protect. Bang for the buck, hard to beat products from the Collinite line-up.

Those products largely kept my Tahoe "on ice" so to speak all those years, protecting the finish and integrity of the paint. That the paint on this SUV looks as good as the day I bought it, if not actually better.

View attachment 38769
 
"It's as glossy as the day I bought it."

I'd bet if you pull your truck into a dark garage and take a look with a swirl finder light you would discover the paint is not in as good shape as you think it is. And while it is still glossy you will be amazed at how much better it will look after polishing and adding a good wax or sealant.
 
You have been given good advice and links above. I'll admit to being a little intimidated by the Flex 3401 prior to purchasing it and felt some of the same concerns you have. I found Mike Phillips book helpful to understand how to approach and use the machine, I also watched the video by Mike Phillips dlc95 mentioned and it to was helpful. What I found with my first use is there is nothing to be afraid of, yes there is a bit of a learning curve as it handles differently than one of the standard DA's, but easily surmountable. The results I achieved first time out of the gate were very good. In the words of Nike "just do it".
 
I came from a PC and thought the very same thing. Nothing to worry about at all. You adjust very quickly to it rotating counter clockwise and it does correct fast. Go with LC Hybrids for pads, they work great for the 3401.

Have fun and time to break it out of the box, too nice of a machine to sit idle.
 
I'd also like to share that I've never burned paint with the 3401, while I have with the PC. Perception can be funny like that. The thing about the 3401 is that it maintains rotation under pressure, where free spindle machines like the PC may encounter pad stall.

When you get that 3401 on the paint, start out with light pressure, and get a feel for it. Should you encounter any "walking", it's remedied for me by adjusting the height of the tail end.
 
How about this idea....


Don't practice or learn on something that's important to you.

Practice on something else, like a friends car, relative's car, the girlfriend's or wife's car, etc.

Cut your teeth on something that's not important to you before taking the Flex 3401 to something that is important to you.


:)
 
Go to an auto salvage/junk yard
and pick up some practice panels.


Bob
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
How about this idea....


Don't practice or learn on something that's important to you.

Practice on something else, like a friends car, relative's car, the girlfriend's or wife's car, etc.

Cut your teeth on something that's not important to you before taking the Flex 3401 to something that is important to you.


:)
Click to expand...

Not sure practicing on my wife's car is a good idea - one "oops" and she'd quickly become my ex-wife :)
 
MarkD51 said:
Or placed any protectants on the paint in a year?

Being in CO, perhaps vehicles there take less a beating (UV) than here in the desert southwest, but get hammered in other ways, like snow, and nasties on the road like sand-salt?

In any case, time does take it's toll.

I see many people today that falsely believe because the paint looks shiny (From the Clear Coat) that all is good, and that protectants don't need to be used, or used as much. And seen quite a few vehicles around the same age as yours on the verge of clear coat failure, or already has clear coat degradation, with peeling, oxidized paint turning white.

It took a good 16 or so years before I took a DA and Polishes to my own Tahoe SUV, but you can trust in those 16 years I applied more waxes, and sealants than the factory paintjob on it probably cost.

The paint on my SUV was always highly maintained, but I will say the paint looks better today by far than it did 6-8 years ago.

There's countless tutorial videos out there on the web, both by Mike Phillips, and others.
One doesn't necessarily have to watch a specific Flex 3401 Vid to learn and understand the basics of detailing, and polishing, but it does certainly help to get to know your specific machine, and to get the best abilities from it.

Nothing wrong with starting out with fine polishes, and it is often better to do less, than do too much. Learn the process of doing a test spot with 2-3 products on a panel section. See what works best, in both quality of finish, ease of work, and then simply repeat the process over the rest of the vehicle.

If it is hard for you to get the time to maintain your vehicle with protectants, then do consider durable products to protect. Bang for the buck, hard to beat products from the Collinite line-up.

Those products largely kept my Tahoe "on ice" so to speak all those years, protecting the finish and integrity of the paint. That the paint on this SUV looks as good as the day I bought it, if not actually better.

View attachment 38769
Click to expand...

But the paint is still salvageable, correct?
 
Your over thinking you have quality products and a quality machine. So i am more then sure you watched videos and lurked around.

Your using such a non aggressive pad and polish combo the only way you would damage your paint is with the polisher.

Do not start with 3800 it has less cut. You dont have to do a test spot because your not compounding just polishing.

Wash with dish soap clay, slap your white pad on put 5 dots of 3500 work it in your section bump to speed 4-5 if your uncomfortable use speed 4.

Stay away from body lines and mirrors as the flex can hit them and damage them.

Do a open panel get the hang of it and youll get it.

Your just going to be cutting very little as the polish is not as abrasive as a compound.

It is called "super finish" for finishing the only thing your going to be hurting is some light defects.

Dont over think it. I wouldnt trust you trying to remove every defect and a full correction.

Your just polishing no bigey
 
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