I'm about done with ceramic coatings, not worth it , need suggestions

I've never had rain create spots a wash could not remove.


i m in the same boat. We had the the audis for over a yeesr. The grey one sits outside and we never noticed this before. A car wash was enough to keep the car clean. It is only after gyeon pure evo that we started noticing this. Its bad enough that we can see it without looking for it. Its not just one car but 2 of them

i remember having a similar issue , not as bad with opti coat but i never to repolish a panel
 
I am not anti-coating. Even though I do not use them on my truck.

I have applied them to my wife's wheels, and I have now applied coatings to about a dozen vehicles for friends. The finished product is pretty outstanding, and it gives a ton of benefits as all of the guys have already mentioned.

All of that said, the tedious prep and application stipulations (flash times, cure times, etc.) are not for me. Never will be.


To Rick the OP, if you are looking to jump back into the "Caveman Camp" with us, there are some great sealants and hybrid waxes out there.

My list would be this:

1) Collinite 476s or 915 (paste hybrid)

2) Finish Kare 1000P (paste hybrid)

3) Collinite 845 (liquid hybrid)

4) Griot's ceramic 3-in1 (spray Si02)

5) Wolfgang Si02 paint sealant (liquid Si02).

Each and every one of these are great non-coating products. Not even the staunchest coating Nazi would deny me that..........:laughing:
 
There are are number of good sealants out there but just as an FYI, you don't need to throw out wipe-off towels, only applicators. Coatings don't ruin wipe off towels, just launder them as normal.



Ceramics offer plenty of benefits. I won't re-list what most all of them already market but I think in your situation, while I don't have an answer as to why you're seeing water spots, the facts still remain that ceramics offer plenty of up-side and little down side. They aren't for everyone that's for sure.



Not surprising. 99% of gloss is from the polish phase not the LSP, ceramic included. I keep a HUGE portfolio of work on my website and even in person, let alone pics and videos, one would not know or "see" the difference in products I use regularly.



I've had great luck with Gliss v2 and even SiC or GYEON MOHS EVO as a coating. Again, can't say I can fully understand what's happening in your situation. I've been using coatings for years and haven't had issues with water spots except for very hard municiple water like sprinkler at a hotel, etc. since very early on. The newer products I've used area all very good and resistant.

The only real suggestion I would have would be to use a topper like 3D Bead it Up or one of the other many different types of coating compatible products. I've owned no less than 8 black cars and haven't had any issues.

Thanks for the response

Im now using gliss v2 since it is what i had. Any real world experience on durability? . It claims a year but its not really a coating
 
I am not anti-coating. Even though I do not use them on my truck.

I have applied them to my wife's wheels, and I have now applied coatings to about a dozen vehicles for friends. The finished product is pretty outstanding, and it gives a ton of benefits as all of the guys have already mentioned.

All of that said, the tedious prep and application stipulations (flash times, cure times, etc.) are not for me. Never will be.


To Rick the OP, if you are looking to jump back into the "Caveman Camp" with us, there are some great sealants and hybrid waxes out there.

My list would be this:

1) Collinite 476s or 915 (paste hybrid)

2) Finish Kare 1000P (paste hybrid)

3) Collinite 845 (liquid hybrid)

4) Griot's ceramic 3-in1 (spray Si02)

5) Wolfgang Si02 paint sealant (liquid Si02).

Each and every one of these are great non-coating products. Not even the staunchest coating Nazi would deny me that..........:laughing:

Awesome . Thanks for the suggestions
 
There are are number of good sealants out there but just as an FYI, you don't need to throw out wipe-off towels, only applicators. Coatings don't ruin wipe off towels, just launder them as normal.



Ceramics offer plenty of benefits. I won't re-list what most all of them already market but I think in your situation, while I don't have an answer as to why you're seeing water spots, the facts still remain that ceramics offer plenty of up-side and little down side. They aren't for everyone that's for sure.



Not surprising. 99% of gloss is from the polish phase not the LSP, ceramic included. I keep a HUGE portfolio of work on my website and even in person, let alone pics and videos, one would not know or "see" the difference in products I use regularly.



I've had great luck with Gliss v2 and even SiC or GYEON MOHS EVO as a coating. Again, can't say I can fully understand what's happening in your situation. I've been using coatings for years and haven't had issues with water spots except for very hard municiple water like sprinkler at a hotel, etc. since very early on. The newer products I've used area all very good and resistant.

The only real suggestion I would have would be to use a topper like 3D Bead it Up or one of the other many different types of coating compatible products. I've owned no less than 8 black cars and haven't had any issues.

I just took the grey audi outside to have a look. Honestly i can not tell the difference between the ceramic coating sections and gliss. Again it may be me eyes but gliss actually may look a tiny bit better . I asked my cousin to tell me if he can guess what side has ceramic coating anf which one doesnt. He said the whole car looks exactly the same. I drove the car under a shaded area where the paint pops more and the samething, the whole car is glowing
 
I am not anti-coating. Even though I do not use them on my truck.

I have applied them to my wife's wheels, and I have now applied coatings to about a dozen vehicles for friends. The finished product is pretty outstanding, and it gives a ton of benefits as all of the guys have already mentioned.

All of that said, the tedious prep and application stipulations (flash times, cure times, etc.) are not for me. Never will be.


To Rick the OP, if you are looking to jump back into the "Caveman Camp" with us, there are some great sealants and hybrid waxes out there.

My list would be this:

1) Collinite 476s or 915 (paste hybrid)

2) Finish Kare 1000P (paste hybrid)

3) Collinite 845 (liquid hybrid)

4) Griot's ceramic 3-in1 (spray Si02)

5) Wolfgang Si02 paint sealant (liquid Si02).

Each and every one of these are great non-coating products. Not even the staunchest coating Nazi would not deny me that..........:laughing:

I’m with Paul, but he might’ve forgot one that is also very solid, Sonax PNS. I applied it to my daughters X3 yesterday since she’s going to college later this week and she’s not big on washing a car…I fully trust PNS will do a great job.

Applied it yesterday…25 hours later and it’s raining now!
68f65a7be595a4c2450c3ad682b34f50.jpg
52a7f0007485b5c535be65d34d93d80d.jpg

JF


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
I’m with Paul, but he might’ve forgot one that is also very solid, Sonax PNS. I applied it to my daughters X3 yesterday since she’s going to college later this week and she’s not big on washing a car…I fully trust PNS will do a great job.

Applied it yesterday…25 hours later and it’s raining now!
68f65a7be595a4c2450c3ad682b34f50.jpg
52a7f0007485b5c535be65d34d93d80d.jpg

JF


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

Great suggestion, Jay. My list was of the products I have used personally, but there are certainly many more including the Sonax.
 
One of Cquartz SiC focuses was to provide more protection from chemicals/minerals. It can be used by itself or over CQuartz UK 3.0, which is a really good combination for most protection by a coating.

But while that might work for you, I’m not sure that’s what I would suggest. I would look for a coating or sealant that focuses more on sheeting the water, which is more popular in Europe vs the beading that Americans seem to prefer.

Guys and gals, any paint protection recommendations that sheet instead of bead that you’d recommend?

The problem with sheeting is getting enough liquid on the surface to sheet. Sure when you spray with a hose it will sheet but in a rain not enough volume to cause sheeting.

I read this as a post from a manufacturer (Gyeon maybe?).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not one of the non coating products is making it through a Minnesota winter.

I can fire my car through a touchless wash in February and have it come out looking like a fresh summer wash.

A Si02 spray, wax or sealant is not doing that nor is it even going to last until February if applied in the fall
 
if you read the instruction on the website , gyeon only recommends pure of you are doing an outdoor application and there is a possibility of rain in the next 24 hours. These 2 cars were park inside a garage for 48 hours and none of them saw rain the first 4 days. But again, goes back to the same statement, you need to use something to protect the coating ..

i may as well just use cure by itself. The hydrophobic properties on my car will be the ones of the top layer which in this case would be cure

I have seen different. My last car had no coating on hood to test different products. The way water responded to the topper on bare paint and my CQUK3 and CC were completely different. Coating always “shined” through.

Only time was close was with two products I mentioned.

I have not seen toppers adversely affect a coating


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not one of the non coating products is making it through a Minnesota winter.

I can fire my car through a touchless wash in February and have it come out looking like a fresh summer wash.

A Si02 spray, wax or sealant is not doing that nor is it even going to last until February if applied in the fall

Who said that they would?
 
In term of looks , sorry but thats a myth. Look at the pictures . My brothers car looks exactly the same , cant tell the difference that one panel is not coated. Even the optó coating on my bmw was the same. I had to repolished one day and only applied reload after. Couldnt tell the difference

Hydrophobic and self cleaning is another myth. After a rain the whole car looks exactly the same. I blow dey my audi and the water moves out exactly the same. On top of that a lot of people use toppers so wouldnt the clearcoat adhere rhe characteristics of the top layer???

Anyways that’s just my experience

In the case of opticoating on my white bmw. It was actually done by a pro .


First of all can’t tell much from pictures. And not a myth just your experience was different.

I absolutely saw a gloss difference from my coated car and uncoated hood.

Many test with gloss meters could be different.

Maybe it was your paint, your environment, that particular coating, your eyes. There are a lot of test done and references given by trusted sources to prove it’s no myth.

As for your first part agreed no more scratch protection and yes I have read more susceptible to water spots.

Disagree on self cleaning as car would look cleaner on coated vs uncoated parts.


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All coatings can get spotting, from light to heavy.

Anthony

That is your opinion, it is not a fact.

Not trying to pick a fight with you but just wanted to point that out. My experience with some of the coatings I have tried is not the same as yours.
 
Damn this thread blew up! Lol.
I read the beginning posts last night but not the rest yet… All I know is my car’s oblivious when it comes to rain and I fear no sprinklers because my sealant boldly claims to protect from water spots and has never let me down. I love me some beads. Detailing wouldn’t be the same without them. Lol.
 
Damn this thread blew up! Lol.
I read the beginning posts last night but not the rest yet… All I know is my car’s oblivious when it comes to rain and I fear no sprinklers because my sealant boldly claims to protect from water spots and has never let me down. I love me some beads. Detailing wouldn’t be the same without them. Lol.
What sealant you runnin eldo?

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 
I read a comment on youtube that echoed a similar sentiment.

He switched to Duragloss 601 + 105, and hasn't had any issues with water spots since.

I'm having luck with Optimum Gloss Coat getting hit with sprinkler water every morning. It usually will clean up with and ONR wash. The water is hard, but not as hard as at my house.

I have a well at my house and the water is incredibly hard. I doubt a smooth surface exists that it can't spot.

Gliss v2 should work good for ya, but as stated you really need to let it cure. Last summer I had it on one side of my hood and Optimum Car Wax on the other. Those sprinklers came on and the sun came out, which resulted in those infamous water spots. The OCW side cleaned up perfectly. The Gliss side ended up getting polished off... I don't think it cured long enough. It was only a week or so old.

Buy you have to use what you want. If that puts you with a sealant or wax, so be it. Ultimately you're the one applying and maintaining your choice of paint protection.

I've seen cars come back at work for maintained washes. They're all coated in either Ceramic Pro or Xpel Fusion. Some come back with water spots, and some come back without them... We have zero control of what happens with these cars once they leave the premises.

I'm more of a sealant guy in the winter and wax guy in the summer. I have a ceramic on the gf's Jeep, but she couldn't care less what I use as long as it's clean.
 
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