I'm baffled - still have swirls after hours of work

Bill220 said:
I've been using dime size drops and didn't think I'd need to prime the pad since I've been spraying the fresh pad with CG Pad Conditioner before applying any product. What are your thoughts on this?
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I fully prime the surface of my pad with whatever product im using, so when I turn on my machine it immediately starts working for me. While CG pad conditioner is fine, thats a product you want to spray to a clean pad before you prime. I usually lightly spray a fresh clean pad with some Quick Detailer before I prime it.
 
CM8 6MT said:
I fully prime the surface of my pad with whatever product im using, so when I turn on my machine it immediately starts working for me. While CG pad conditioner is fine, thats a product you want to spray to a clean pad before you prime. I usually lightly spray a fresh clean pad with some Quick Detailer before I prime it.
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Thanks, I'll do that from now on. Sucks that I have to learn this on my car. :)
 
What speed setting is the PC on?
Is the backing plate rotating as well as oscillating?
Slow down the section passes apply slight hand pressure on to of the machine to keep the backing plate rotating. Using a marker, make a line on the side of it, this way you'll see the rotation.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html
 
Bill220 said:
Thanks, I'll do that from now on. Sucks that I have to learn this on my car. :)
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Better yours than someone elses, my wife would not be happy, she has said.......glad you're learning on yours not mine!!
:D
 
cartman57 said:
What speed setting is the PC on?
Is the backing plate rotating as well as oscillating?
Slow down the section passes apply slight hand pressure on to of the machine to keep the backing plate rotating. Using a marker, make a line on the side of it, this way you'll see the rotation.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html
Click to expand...

Speed was on 5 for both 105 and 205.

Yes, it's rotating. I did the marker trick as soon as I got the plate. I do have to slow it down. I'm going to try the trunk lid again shortly.

cartman57 said:
Better yours than someone elses, my wife would not be happy, she has said.......glad you're learning on yours not mine!!
:D
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HAHAHAHA True! My wife looked at the car and shook her head.
 
Don't start with M105, start with M205, the least aggressive approach. Prime the pad properly, and read all the ti[p and techniques required for using M205 and M105 if you need to cut more. After you read all of the tips and techniques and, IMHO, hoops you have to jump through to get these products to work properly you may realize its not the best choice for a beginner.

Just stick with 205 for now, you can use a polish pad or cut pad with it, if you need more cut, try Meguiars Ultimate compound you can buy it OTC or at AG, skip 105 until you get more practice.

Just some suggestions , I went through the same thing last year when I started, 105 was too tricky for a first time user IMHO.
 
To me it looks like someone scratched the trunk. It looks like someone placed something on top of it and instead of lifting it off they dragged it off. Sometimes your not going to be able to get all the scratches out.
 
I noticed in your process you didn't clay was your paint free of above surface contamination?

If you didn't clay it is possible that your pads are contaminated with dirt and inflicting swirls. Did you clean your pads often or switch to new pads?
 
rustytruck said:
To me it looks like someone scratched the trunk. It looks like someone placed something on top of it and instead of lifting it off they dragged it off. Sometimes your not going to be able to get all the scratches out.
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Nobody scratched the trunk. It wasn't like that until I polished it. The car never goes anywhere where I have to park and leave it. It's a toy.


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weekendwarrior said:
Don't start with M105, start with M205, the least aggressive approach. Prime the pad properly, and read all the ti[p and techniques required for using M205 and M105 if you need to cut more. After you read all of the tips and techniques and, IMHO, hoops you have to jump through to get these products to work properly you may realize its not the best choice for a beginner.

Just stick with 205 for now, you can use a polish pad or cut pad with it, if you need more cut, try Meguiars Ultimate compound you can buy it OTC or at AG, skip 105 until you get more practice.

Just some suggestions , I went through the same thing last year when I started, 105 was too tricky for a first time user IMHO.
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You are correct sir. I should have never bothered with 105.

I spoke with a local guy here who told me to wash the car with citrus wash again, get some black pads and use 205.


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inyadreems said:
I noticed in your process you didn't clay was your paint free of above surface contamination?

If you didn't clay it is possible that your pads are contaminated with dirt and inflicting swirls. Did you clean your pads often or switch to new pads?
Click to expand...

It didn't need clayed. I clayed it over the summer. I did the Baggie test and felt nothing. As for the pads, I did Mike's on the fly pad cleaning after every panel.

Sorry for all the posts, I can't multi-quote on my phone.


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Bill220 said:
It didn't need clayed. I clayed it over the summer. I did the Baggie test and felt nothing. As for the pads, I did Mike's on the fly pad cleaning after every panel.

Sorry for all the posts, I can't multi-quote on my phone.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

M105 is kind of a pain to work with. It dusts bad and the removal if left on too long is tedious. You should follow all the advice from above. Smaller working area, Correct Pressure and pad rotation, Quality MF, and slow arm speed. To help with the removal....mist a bit of QD on your towel and change towels frequently.

This is a good product and the result (if done correctly) is dramatic. Here is some before and after Pics of M105 on Orange Pad followed by CG V36 on white pad.

Before
1_Lambo_before.jpg


After
3_Lambo_AFTER.jpg


Good Luck.
 
My personal feeling is the quality of the paint. If it's clear coat, it is a cheap clear. There is so many quality's of clear out there. You have to use a high end product from a major manufacturer. No cheaper quality. I've been trying to polish a 34 ford with black base clear and it's the worst I have ever encountered in 40 years of painting and polishing. A respray is the only answer. What I have been able to polish has taken me 20 times longer than any other paint product. What I'm going to try next on some pieces is to scotch brite them down and respray the clear with a high end product. I'll let you know the results.
 
Bill220 said:
^Wow what a difference!
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Use a bit patience and it will work for you as well.

You might also want to google Kevin Brown method. This is the method I used for this car. Heavy pressure and slow arm speed (1 inch per second).

Almost forgot..... if you find the result is not to liking after 5-6 sectional passes on an area, mist a bit of water or QD on the pad and continue the process for a few more passes. Too much product on the pad is not a good thing.

Good Luck.
 
You probably either get someone local to critique your method or create a video of how you do a panel and post it here so it can be analyzed. It is often something simple (pressure, arm speed, work time, buff off method).
 
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