Flash Gordon
Well-known member
- Feb 6, 2010
- 11,450
- 459
Another thing that might help with the rotary is to apply more pressure using low speed. A 3401 shouldn't outperform a rotary polisher
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Well, I'm probably shifting to an independent contractor. I need to find a way out of having to apply those ceramic coatings. Every time I do a car with them it's a complete disaster. Plus, I can charge a little more and have time to tend to much business at home.
I've been fortunate to always be my own bossI've been really loving detailing more than I have over the last 30 years. Since I jumped back into the tools and products are so much more advanced! It might as well be 30 years since nothing really changed from the time I started to when I stopped. In those 15 years the industry is light years from where I left off. Which is why you enjoy it and I am enjoying it way more!!! I haven't had I headache of a detail yet! Back then the rotary just left you with miles of holograms and then the real fun began! NOT!!!
... I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.
It me!Oh I remember the rotary days! In 98 I got a Wen variable speed "sander/polisher" from Walmart. Wen to the local Painters Supply and was given a tutorial along with Megs wool and maroon, yellow, and tan foam pads. A bottle of M02, M09, M07, and M26, and I was on my way. The first time was a HUGE mess. Lint and M02 splattered all over the cowling of the car... I later picked up M80 Speed Glaze and used that on a cheap auto parts store 6" orbital waxer to use after the M09 on the yellow pad. I didn't need to use M07 when I used M80 I'd finish with the M26, but M80 had a sealant in it. I did a lot of one steps with M80 too. Probably should have followed with a dedicated wax but.... The forums weren't around then to see what other users were experiencing with it.
But.
That wasn't as far back as you're going though! I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.
And I didn't mention that the owner of the shop is adamant about reimbursing any of us for any product we use there that isn't provided. He's a really good guy. He's actually about two months younger than I.
Ask for a sample. 3M makes great compounds
It me!
[only maybe a decade earlier]
I also punished many a paint job (and my upper body) with a B&D “Professional” 12-inch “orbital” wobbler and wool and terry bonnets in the 80s.
To each his own.You shouldn't need a rotary for detail work unless you are trying to remove wetsanding scratches. A good RO and foamed wool or MF pads should be enough for 98% of vehicles out there. Unless you have years of experience with a rotary and wool pads, you are asking for trouble. I know a guy with 40 years of body shop experience who burned through fresh single stage paint on an edge with a rotary.
Oh I remember the rotary days! In 98 I got a Wen variable speed "sander/polisher" from Walmart. Wen to the local Painters Supply and was given a tutorial along with Megs wool and maroon, yellow, and tan foam pads. A bottle of M02, M09, M07, and M26, and I was on my way. The first time was a HUGE mess. Lint and M02 splattered all over the cowling of the car... I later picked up M80 Speed Glaze and used that on a cheap auto parts store 6" orbital waxer to use after the M09 on the yellow pad. I didn't need to use M07 when I used M80 I'd finish with the M26, but M80 had a sealant in it. I did a lot of one steps with M80 too. Probably should have followed with a dedicated wax but.... The forums weren't around then to see what other users were experiencing with it.
But.
That wasn't as far back as you're going though! I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.
And I didn't mention that the owner of the shop is adamant about reimbursing any of us for any product we use there that isn't provided. He's a really good guy. He's actually about two months younger than I.
Well, I'm probably shifting to an independent contractor. I need to find a way out of having to apply those ceramic coatings. Every time I do a car with them it's a complete disaster. Plus, I can charge a little more and have time to tend to much business at home.
Ask for a sample. 3M makes great compounds
I'm going to eventually grab 3M Perfect it EX AC 36060 just to compare before I buy a gallon of ACA 500 or 510 still haven't tried 500 and I jus ordered the Sonax Ultimate Cut 6 Out of those the one I like the most I'll Pony up on a Gallon.
Oh I remember the rotary days! In 98 I got a Wen variable speed "sander/polisher" from Walmart. Wen to the local Painters Supply and was given a tutorial along with Megs wool and maroon, yellow, and tan foam pads. A bottle of M02, M09, M07, and M26, and I was on my way. The first time was a HUGE mess. Lint and M02 splattered all over the cowling of the car... I later picked up M80 Speed Glaze and used that on a cheap auto parts store 6" orbital waxer to use after the M09 on the yellow pad. I didn't need to use M07 when I used M80 I'd finish with the M26, but M80 had a sealant in it. I did a lot of one steps with M80 too. Probably should have followed with a dedicated wax but.... The forums weren't around then to see what other users were experiencing with it.
But.
That wasn't as far back as you're going though! I'd love to hear what you were using back then, the approach, etc. I'm a sucker for history.
And I didn't mention that the owner of the shop is adamant about reimbursing any of us for any product we use there that isn't provided. He's a really good guy. He's actually about two months younger than I.
Well, I'm probably shifting to an independent contractor. I need to find a way out of having to apply those ceramic coatings. Every time I do a car with them it's a complete disaster. Plus, I can charge a little more and have time to tend to much business at home.
Ask for a sample. 3M makes great compounds
I hear ya on that.
The last time I used a 3M compound was on a friend's bucket truck. It was the brown super duty stuff. I used a rotary with wo to cut the years of grime and oxidation off. I think I finished with M105 on orange Harbor Freight cut pads. That thing was nasty and I didn't want to use my good pads on it.
I'd strongly consider the Jescar Correction compound to try too. It's a really nice cutter and it finishes like a polish. I'd like to try their heavy cut one day, but I'm in the process of downsizing the inventory!
I remember liking the Jescar more than both the Sonax and Carpro heavy cutters, although they were also VERY nice at their job.
I know a guy with 40 years of body shop experience who burned through fresh single stage paint on an edge with a rotary.
I didn't' realize 105 was considered a heavy weight contender. I have a 32oz bottle and I've tried it and it seems nice! I felt it was a milder cut than the others but I will try it as a first swing next correction.
I'm looking forward to trying the Ultimate 6 you like. I've really been wanting to try Jescar. When I'm about to run out of ACA 510 I will gram the Heavy cut from them to compare it to the 510
Nah, M105 is up there in cut. Works really fast too.
The problem most have - and myself is the dust. I tend to tune my pad reloads, cycle times, etc to get as little dusting from M105 as possible and I still get a bit. Not a big deal but it's significantly more than what I get with 3D.
I most likely won't order it again, and instead to opt for M110. However, if I start rotary cutting again I'll get some more M105. It works amazingly well with a rotary w/wool pad.