I'm gonna get the PC 7424XP on here

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animescreen

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I'm gonna get the [h=1]PC 7424XP on here.[/h]
First time polishing as i see swirl marks. Gonna get the book/dvd on here too so i can get idea on how to do so.

Questions i have.

1. What pads should I get for beginner (or just general good bads beginner or not)
2. What polish to get?
3. How long will polish take with this machine (guess i have to tape all the non paint areas too). If i do one half one section and next day do the other half of car should be fine right since in garage.

Here is my steps leading to polish
-foam gun/pressure rinse
- any
-2 bucket wash/ rinse /dry
- claybar
- iron x

then polish... would you say first time polishing is pretty easy without worrrying about marring? I think i did some search that the polish you get and how abrasive it is most important then the equipment and technique. I think the pc 7424xp is pretty good . And technique i can watch ..
 
Keep in my that with the PC Machine you'll need to buy a least one Backing Plate. Better yet 2 at first if you can afford them. I'd buy the Griots Garage 5" Ventilated Backing Plate, and a 3.5" Lake Country Yellow Urethane Backing Plate. Then accordingly use Lake Country thin flat 4" and Thinpro 5.5" Pads.

For correcting purposes, the White Pads are a good place to start, and I'd say let the majority of the Pads you buy be this color. Agressiveness of cut can then be slightly adjusted-modified by the use of different grade Polishes and Compounds. I'd say at a minimum you should have 4-5 White Pads of both 4" and 5.5" on hand. A couple more coarser Orange Pads would be good to have too on hand, at least to start with in your collection.

As for Polish Chemicals, I might recommend Wolfgang, the Total Swirl Remover and Finishing Glaze. Or opt to negate getting the Finishing Glaze, as Total Swirl Remover does finish down very nicely, and get the Wolfgang Uber Compound and TSR instead.

Many other Polish options, in fact countless. Meguiars #205 is also a very nice Finishing Polish.

I would say to take things in stride and not rush, the washing, and decon of claying, iron-x, drying, etc might take you the better part of one day, in fact maybe all day. Perhaps that should be the first day's plans and goals to achieve. You may also begin to mask-tape needed areas after your sure everything is dry. Oh, let's not forget the interior, that can take some good time too.

On the next day, you then should be able to only need to do a precautionary wipe down with a MF Towel, then begin the Polishing processes. If all goes well, you should be able to complete polishing of the entire vehicle, then lay down your favorite wax, or sealant, finish up trim dressing, tires, wheels, etc.

Have a good number of soft clean MF Towels on hand, one terry towel can be used to help clean the Pads on the fly here and there, and even an old toothbrush can come in handy for lightly brushing the faces of the Polishing pads as you go. After 2-3 panels, swap out the existing Pad for a clean fresh one, and continue.

After tallying up the costs for the machine, plates, pads, polishes, tapes, maybe some towels, and other little accessory goodies, you might get some sticker shock! I know, it happens. You'll maybe say, wow, I have to spend hundreds of dollars just to get this one job done! But keep in mind you'll have these tools on hand for the future and for other vehicles as well.

Some other good things to have on hand and will aid maintaining the polishing pads, is to have a good Pad Cleaner on hand.

Yes, the Mike Phillips Book will be the Bible, very good to have on hand. There's countless videos on the web showing polishing techniques used with the Porter Cable Machine, as well with other machines. Mike Phillip's Vids are usually the very best, concise, correct, and orthodox methods.
 
Oh, Others here might suggest bypassing the PC7424XP for the Griots Garage GG6 instead.

Pros and cons of both I'd say. The GG might be a tad more powerful, and also possesses a lifetime warrantee. The PC I believe only comes with one year. Should the GG6 break 5 years from now, simply call, send it back, and even if that particular machine is now no longer made, GG will send you the latest-greatest version.

I have the PC BTW. And own a GG Boss-15, and GG-3" as well.

I've been happy with my PC, but might mention two dislikes. One, it comes with an almost useless Backing Plate and permanently attached 6.5" Pad. About all that can be done with it, is attach MF Bonnets, and use to apply-remove waxes is about all.

Another, is there are detents in between all speeds on the PC, except in between speed 5 and 6. That was dumb I felt, poor that there wasn't a speed 5-1/2 on the rotary speed dial. Sometimes the PC can seem to struggle on speed 5 with 5.5" Pads or larger, and it becomes critical to use good form, proper angle and pressure to the panel you are polishing.

And speed 6, the highest setting seems a little bit too much IMO.

You'll note mentioned with either machine, since either free wheeling machine can be stalled (in rotation only) when polishing, that it's smart to mark the backing plates so one can keep an eye on Pad rotation as they polish.

While polishing, and when you note pad rotation slowing or ceasing, it's at those times that correction abilities of either machine diminish.

The reasons why stalling occurs is not only caused by the end user, and how they use the machine, but automobiles are not a perfect "flat" surface in many areas, and dips, curves, can cause difficulties when polishing.

It becomes important to maintain that the polishing pad is parallel to the surface at any given point, and attention paid to downward pressure, speed of passes, and of the machine itself.

That if for say in a certain area your pad rotation is slowing due to body curves or dips, then one must also learn to compensate by some other means as well by possibly slowing the rate of section passes they make and/or adjust downward pressure slightly, so the pads and products will effectively work and do their intended jobs in those areas.

Think of a Vinyl Record going round and round on a Record Player. That's what you wish to maintain for effective paint correction.
 
There can be no exact set rule on the time it takes per given panel.

I depends on a number of factors, what the condition of paint is, and the abilities of the machine, pads and polishes in use, and of the end user himself.

As for time, and with something like a Rotary Polisher in an inexperienced person's hands, well one can do things really quick, like burn right through the paint and hit primer or metal in a matter of just a few second's time!

The D/A Polishers such as the Griots, PC, and other free wheeling machines almost make such risk impossible. That's not to say that one can't damage a vehicle or its paint with a D/A machine.

If you get Mike's Book and DVD, study them intensely. If you mimick and copy exactly his methods-techniques, you'll be fine!
 
animescreen said:
I'm gonna get the [h=1]PC 7424XP on here.[/h]
First time polishing as i see swirl marks. Gonna get the book/dvd on here too so i can get idea on how to do so.

Questions i have.

1. What pads should I get for beginner (or just general good bads beginner or not)
2. What polish to get?
3. How long will polish take with this machine (guess i have to tape all the non paint areas too). If i do one half one section and next day do the other half of car should be fine right since in garage.

Here is my steps leading to polish
-foam gun/pressure rinse
- any
-2 bucket wash/ rinse /dry
- claybar
- iron x

then polish... would you say first time polishing is pretty easy without worrrying about marring? I think i did some search that the polish you get and how abrasive it is most important then the equipment and technique. I think the pc 7424xp is pretty good . And technique i can watch ..
Click to expand...

Animescreen,

I recently detailed my wife's '15 or '16 white X3, I used Blackfire One Step with LC Orange Pads, I got great results, not show car but it eliminated a good chunk of the swirls. I found that the BMW Clear Coat is much harder than my Acura which is buttery soft!

As a newb myself, I wanted something that wouldn't mar the paint (aka Bubba Proof) but wanted it to finish out very nice but also not compromise any quality to some extent.

I also didn't think I had the skill level to do a full three-step (compound, polish, coat)...and man was I right (that just changed though!)!!

If this is your first major detail and first time behind a DA, I would highly recommend BF One Step with the LC Orange Pads (white pads didnt do much at all on the BMW hard paint). To work "clean", I would have 8-10 orange pads (one for each panel) and maybe 4-5 whites.

Once you get comfortable behind the DA, the AIO, Pads, process, etc...I would then step up to a Compound and separate Polish, which I would recommend Pinnacle Natural Brilliance Compound and the matching Polish as the Compound has a better cutting ability than the BF One Step (just barely though)...but as a set (compound and polish) it's a little more finicky.

Using BF One Step AIO will make the car look great and will allow you the time to hone your skill if you want to go further later down the road.

As for how long it will take? If this is your first time, I would say 8-9+ hours...there's a lot of real estate on the X3, more than you think!

I would also tape off the plastic molding using 2" painters tape around the wheels and on the bottom half of the doors, the plastic is textured and will hold onto some of the AIO, as I found out, hence just purchased BF Wax Remover (this weekend project).

Few tips from a newb to a newb...test spot, test spot, test spot....review the steps and process in Mike P's book, once you have the technique down...believe in the your technique when working, take your time as this isn't a race, and HAVE FUN!!!

Jay
 
I have the 7424 get the Griot's. It is suppose to be a little more powerful,which is a good thing.

5 inch backing plate and LC flat pads ,orange and white plus some Menzerna 400 and 3500
 
My recommendation for pads on the PC is Lake Country Thin Pros in 5.5" diameter.
 
Hey Paul, what is the difference between the flat and thin pro?

I have the 5.5 flat and 3.5 thin pro. So I never had a chance to really use the thin pro on a big area.
 
I think I can answer that for you Spazzz. The Thinpro Pads are slightly thinner in profile than the standard Thin Pads LC makes. AFAIK, the colors and corresponding coarseness to each given color is exactly the same.

Simple enough to look at the Pads in LC's section in the AG Store.

As Mike Phillips would say, "thin is in", and being thinner is said to make machines like the PC and GG spin a bit easier, less mass and weight.
 
I have both the PC 7424, and the Griot's GG6.

You really can't go wrong with either one. Mark covered a lot of ground for you, but I will also add that the LC Flat pads are all you need right now to start.
They are GREAT pads, and I actually always go back to them even after using Thin Pro's, and Griot's Boss pads.

As Mark said, the GG6 has a lifetime warranty, but the PC is famous for being quite literally "bullet-proof". I have never read about anyone complaining that they are having chronic problems with their PC.

Yes, the GG6 has a little more power. This is true, but the difference won't really blow your mind like "WHOA!! This GG is WAY better!!".
In fact, the differences might not even be felt by a beginner.

Lastly, you mentioned "swirls". Any pics? What make and model car? What color? This will go a long way toward deciding your pad/product plan of attack.
 
PaulMys said:
As Mark said, the GG6 has a lifetime warranty, but the PC is famous for being quite literally "bullet-proof". I have never read about anyone complaining that they are having chronic problems with their PC.
Click to expand...

Are you saying I can.. shoot my PC???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As mentioned above the amount of swirling and defects make a huge difference in pad and liquid selection. Also the level of which you would accept of correction you would accept.

My only recommendation would be to skip the 8mm throw and get a 15mm. I just did my 1st (and 2nd, 3rd) and a complete noob. I would have to say unless your actually trying to hurt your paint doing heavy correcting the boss 15,is pretty bubba proof. I have a friend who has a gg6 and tried both and it is a huge difference in performance. Also the vibrations of the machine was huge.

A longer throw will make polishing easier and won’t need to upgrade in future. It will truly make it faster and easier. And trust me, I got a little “ bubba” in me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
As mentioned above the amount of swirling and defects make a huge difference in pad and liquid selection. Also the level of which you would accept of correction you would accept.

My only recommendation would be to skip the 8mm throw and get a 15mm. I just did my 1st (and 2nd, 3rd) and a complete noob. I would have to say unless your actually trying to hurt your paint doing heavy correcting the boss 15,is pretty bubba proof. I have a friend who has a gg6 and tried both and it is a huge difference in performance. Also the vibrations of the machine was huge.

A longer throw will make polishing easier and won’t need to upgrade in future. It will truly make it faster and easier. And trust me, I got a little “ bubba” in me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Very true, but some guys (most?) that are "newbies" balk at a $375-475 machine.
 
PaulMys said:
I have both the PC 7424, and the Griot's GG6.

You really can't go wrong with either one. Mark covered a lot of ground for you, but I will also add that the LC Flat pads are all you need right now to start.
They are GREAT pads, and I actually always go back to them even after using Thin Pro's, and Griot's Boss pads.

As Mark said, the GG6 has a lifetime warranty, but the PC is famous for being quite literally "bullet-proof". I have never read about anyone complaining that they are having chronic problems with their PC.

Yes, the GG6 has a little more power. This is true, but the difference won't really blow your mind like "WHOA!! This GG is WAY better!!".
In fact, the differences might not even be felt by a beginner.

Lastly, you mentioned "swirls". Any pics? What make and model car? What color? This will go a long way toward deciding your pad/product plan of attack.
Click to expand...

Perhaps the 2 "dislikes" I mentioned about the/my PC7424XP, were perhaps a little harsh. And I only commented about the dislikes, and didn't sing any praises about it.

I'm very happy with this machine, and it isn't going anywhere anytime soon. I'll keep and use that machine and run it right into the ground, or until I'm planted! LOL If it should ever go down and something fails, I'm pretty handy, and if I can acquire the needed part(s) I can likely repair it myself.

You adapt, and become the machine, that's how I feel about the Porter Cable D/A. I'd be correct to say that no machine will be perfect to everyone.

And I totally agree the PC is a well built D/A and easy to handle. I've had zero operational problems with mine, I've had it almost 7 years, and placed some good use on it. Of course I take good care of my stuff.

It's kept in a Stanley Plastic Tool Box, with all the needed goodies, Backing Plates, Wrench, spare Backing Plate Washers, the Handle, and Paperwork, and pretty much looks just like the day I bought it. Even kept the box it came in too.

I'm sure there's certain dislikes and personal gripes that some might have/mention about Rupes and Flex Polishers, and there's no debate that there's no one machine that can do it all. The Flex 3401 cannot do what a Baby Griots 3", the I-BRID, or other small machines can do, get you in those tight nooks and crannies.

Yep, and I have oodles of the regular LC Flat Pads of various sizes, they're very good Pads, never had any issues like velcro Backing Plate attaching material separating on any of them. I went nuts on a few occasions with the great sales here, and I've still got a few large Cardboard Boxes full of them, many still never taken out of their sealed Plastic Bags. With that said, I think I'm good for a little while!
 
MarkD51 said:
Perhaps the 2 "dislikes" I mentioned about the/my PC7424XP, were perhaps a little harsh. And I only commented about the dislikes, and didn't sing any praises about it.

I'm very happy with this machine, and it isn't going anywhere anytime soon. I'll keep and use that machine and run it right into the ground, or until I'm planted! LOL If it should ever go down and something fails, I'm pretty handy, and if I can acquire the needed part(s) I can likely repair it myself.

You adapt, and become the machine, that's how I feel about the Porter Cable D/A. I'd be correct to say that no machine will be perfect to everyone.

And I totally agree the PC is a well built D/A and easy to handle. I've had zero operational problems with mine, I've had it almost 7 years, and placed some good use on it. Of course I take good care of my stuff.
It's kept in a Stanley Plastic Tool Box, withal the needed goodies, Backing Plates, Wrench, spare Backing Plate Washers, and the Handle, and pretty much looks just like the day I bought it.

I'm sure there's certain dislikes and personal gripes that some might have/mention about Rupes and Flex Polishers, and there's no debate that there's no one machine that can do it all. The Flex 3401 cannot do what a Baby Griots 3", the I-BRID, or other small machines can do, get you in those tight nooks and crannies.

Yep, and I have oodles of the regular LC Flat Pads of various sizes, they're very good Pads, never had any issues like velcro Backing Plate attaching material separating on any of them. I went nuts on a few occasions with the great sales here, and I've still got a few large Cardboard Boxes full of them, many still never taken out of their sealed Plastic Bags. With that said, I think I'm good for a little while!
Click to expand...

Totally agree, Mark.

I was just trying to mention something else that you didn't cover. (Which was tough, btw......) Lol

In my 40 years of using ANY power tool(s), there is always some little thing for which I thought: "Hmm..... well if this were a little different.......".

But then again, the next guy might like that feature the best.....
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
As mentioned above the amount of swirling and defects make a huge difference in pad and liquid selection. Also the level of which you would accept of correction you would accept.

My only recommendation would be to skip the 8mm throw and get a 15mm. I just did my 1st (and 2nd, 3rd) and a complete noob. I would have to say unless your actually trying to hurt your paint doing heavy correcting the boss 15,is pretty bubba proof. I have a friend who has a gg6 and tried both and it is a huge difference in performance. Also the vibrations of the machine was huge.

A longer throw will make polishing easier and won’t need to upgrade in future. It will truly make it faster and easier. And trust me, I got a little “ bubba” in me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Gotta say this is how I also feel about this as well. If I could go back, I’d tell myself to invest the extra 2-300 and future proof myself.

I ended up buying an mt300, and it really backed me into a weird position. I don’t enjoy using it as a 3” machine because of the rust style chassis, and I actually don’t like my PC as a 3” machine either.

A better course of action would’ve been to buy something like a boss 15, or (and I think this is the option that would’ve suited my needs beat) a flex 3401. Lately a 3401 or a mille is a really attractive tool for me, just so that I could thoroughly handle more extreme contours and edges.

Having an mt300 that would likely go unused is what really holds me back from upgrading though. In hindsight spending the money up front would’ve put me in a better position.

If budget allows, and the desire is there, I definitely think everyone should get a nicer polisher if they can.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MarkD51 said:
Keep in my that with the PC Machine you'll need to buy a least one Backing Plate. Better yet 2 at first if you can afford them. I'd buy the Griots Garage 5" Ventilated Backing Plate, and a 3.5" Lake Country Yellow Urethane Backing Plate. Then accordingly use Lake Country thin flat 4" and Thinpro 5.5" Pads.

For correcting purposes, the White Pads are a good place to start, and I'd say let the majority of the Pads you buy be this color. Agressiveness of cut can then be slightly adjusted-modified by the use of different grade Polishes and Compounds. I'd say at a minimum you should have 4-5 White Pads of both 4" and 5.5" on hand. A couple more coarser Orange Pads would be good to have too on hand, at least to start with in your collection.

As for Polish Chemicals, I might recommend Wolfgang, the Total Swirl Remover and Finishing Glaze. Or opt to negate getting the Finishing Glaze, as Total Swirl Remover does finish down very nicely, and get the Wolfgang Uber Compound and TSR instead.

Many other Polish options, in fact countless. Meguiars #205 is also a very nice Finishing Polish.

I would say to take things in stride and not rush, the washing, and decon of claying, iron-x, drying, etc might take you the better part of one day, in fact maybe all day. Perhaps that should be the first day's plans and goals to achieve. You may also begin to mask-tape needed areas after your sure everything is dry. Oh, let's not forget the interior, that can take some good time too.

On the next day, you then should be able to only need to do a precautionary wipe down with a MF Towel, then begin the Polishing processes. If all goes well, you should be able to complete polishing of the entire vehicle, then lay down your favorite wax, or sealant, finish up trim dressing, tires, wheels, etc.

Have a good number of soft clean MF Towels on hand, one terry towel can be used to help clean the Pads on the fly here and there, and even an old toothbrush can come in handy for lightly brushing the faces of the Polishing pads as you go. After 2-3 panels, swap out the existing Pad for a clean fresh one, and continue.

After tallying up the costs for the machine, plates, pads, polishes, tapes, maybe some towels, and other little accessory goodies, you might get some sticker shock! I know, it happens. You'll maybe say, wow, I have to spend hundreds of dollars just to get this one job done! But keep in mind you'll have these tools on hand for the future and for other vehicles as well.

Some other good things to have on hand and will aid maintaining the polishing pads, is to have a good Pad Cleaner on hand.

Yes, the Mike Phillips Book will be the Bible, very good to have on hand. There's countless videos on the web showing polishing techniques used with the Porter Cable Machine, as well with other machines. Mike Phillip's Vids are usually the very best, concise, correct, and orthodox methods.
Click to expand...

ONE BACKING PLATE (BETTER YET 2)? I’m not sure what backing plate does (I’m a newbie lol) I guess the porter cable I got came with one backing plate but heard it’s like useless?
Are you referring to this? Griots Garage 5 Inch Vented Orbital Backing Plate This will work with the Porter cable?
Can’t seem to find the link for the lake country 3.5 backing plate. (not sure what the backing plate does or why size different.. I eventually will lol)
Lake Country thin flat 4" and Thinpro 5.5" Pads are for polish you recommended but what about pads for wax? The pad that comes with porter cable can I use this to wax my whole car in one session?
Wash, decon of claying (not sure what decon is lol but do not claybar), iron x and drying I’ll do in one day.
Next day I will do masktape then do polish and then wax.
How many pads should be good for a compact suv x3. How do you wash them afterwards so I can reuse 4-5 month down the line without polish drying and scratching car? Guess that is where pad cleaner comes to play.
But you are right I spent a lot so far but eventually I’ll find products that work and then get like bulk pricing.
 
MarkD51 said:
Oh, Others here might suggest bypassing the PC7424XP for the Griots Garage GG6 instead.

Pros and cons of both I'd say. The GG might be a tad more powerful, and also possesses a lifetime warrantee. The PC I believe only comes with one year. Should the GG6 break 5 years from now, simply call, send it back, and even if that particular machine is now no longer made, GG will send you the latest-greatest version.

I have the PC BTW. And own a GG Boss-15, and GG-3" as well.

I've been happy with my PC, but might mention two dislikes. One, it comes with an almost useless Backing Plate and permanently attached 6.5" Pad. About all that can be done with it, is attach MF Bonnets, and use to apply-remove waxes is about all.

Another, is there are detents in between all speeds on the PC, except in between speed 5 and 6. That was dumb I felt, poor that there wasn't a speed 5-1/2 on the rotary speed dial. Sometimes the PC can seem to struggle on speed 5 with 5.5" Pads or larger, and it becomes critical to use good form, proper angle and pressure to the panel you are polishing.

And speed 6, the highest setting seems a little bit too much IMO.

You'll note mentioned with either machine, since either free wheeling machine can be stalled (in rotation only) when polishing, that it's smart to mark the backing plates so one can keep an eye on Pad rotation as they polish.

While polishing, and when you note pad rotation slowing or ceasing, it's at those times that correction abilities of either machine diminish.

The reasons why stalling occurs is not only caused by the end user, and how they use the machine, but automobiles are not a perfect "flat" surface in many areas, and dips, curves, can cause difficulties when polishing.

It becomes important to maintain that the polishing pad is parallel to the surface at any given point, and attention paid to downward pressure, speed of passes, and of the machine itself.

That if for say in a certain area your pad rotation is slowing due to body curves or dips, then one must also learn to compensate by some other means as well by possibly slowing the rate of section passes they make and/or adjust downward pressure slightly, so the pads and products will effectively work and do their intended jobs in those areas.

Think of a Vinyl Record going round and round on a Record Player. That's what you wish to maintain for effective paint correction.
Click to expand...

I got the porter cable after getting the mikes dvd and book which he uses the pc so I can easily use it I guess (probably not the best answer but still heard good stuff about this machine).
So the plates you recommended earlier works for the pc ?

I have the PC BTW. And own a GG Boss-15, and GG-3" as well.

I've been happy with my PC, but might mention two dislikes. One, it comes with an almost useless Backing Plate and permanently attached 6.5" Pad. About all that can be done with it, is attach MF Bonnets, and use to apply-remove waxes is about all.

I heard about the marking the backing plate so you know its moving.. good point

So my x3 has lot of curves etc and dips. So these little tip on the hood for example, I need to put slightly more pressure and go slow (while going parallel each time) to cover these crevices etc right?
 
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