I'm stuck...help please

Nica

Nica

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Hi,

So I have been working away on my Volvo and things were going well till I found this. Take a look at the pictures, I'm stuck.

I spent hour’s claying and I totally felt the clay bar grabbing but it never stopped grabbing. I spend about 30min on the hood alone. Poor Volvo. I used the Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and lube and I went through the entire bottle (473mL) of lube, just on a four door Volvo?? Does that seem right? I personally don't mind, I'm just going to buy a gallon of this stuff but just wondering if maybe I over did it with the lube. It was my first time claying a vehicle so I figured the more lube the better...well just me.

I could really use some help with this, I'm not sure what else to try:confused: it's on the paint as well :mad:
PICT1982.jpg

PICT1981.jpg


Oh check this out, if any of you have any doubt about the clay working. This convinced me!...hence the reason why I used so much lube:D
DSC00055.jpg



Like I said I need help, not sure what else to try with out doing more damage. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated. I thought the claying would remove it but no go and I clayed and clayed lots over it. It helped but did not remove it completely.
 
You might want to try a clay with a little more bite to it. Probably something like Wolfgang's Elastic Clay or DP Clay. I have some poly clay on order, but I believe it is designed to be used much more frequently and isn't as powerful as a medium clay. Someone with more experience can chime in, but I think that would help.
 
My sister's vehicle had similar things but no so drastic. I just had Magic Clay Bar at the time and it worked OK. It at least smoothed it out. Also tried a foam bonnet with Megs Swirl Remover on a Craftsman, didn't do $hit.
 
mineral spirits should take that stuff right off as long as you dont douse it and leave it. put some on a rag and rub at the tar stuff and it should just disappear. when it appears to all be gone, clay the area real good, polish, seal, wax, whatever as long as you get the paint clean and protected soon.

also it sounds like you may have overdone it with the lube, which isnt necessarily a bad thing but you have a tendency to waste the product. but its better to overuse the lube than to not use enough. just keep at it and youll figure out how much to use as you get more comfortable with it
 
The yellow clay for older cars - that easy stuff should have been for the Lexus! No, it does not take a whole bottle of lube to clay one car.
What is that- tar?
There has to be something that will get it off. Did you try bug and tar remover?
 
That looks like tar....I've had good success with kerosene...you can give that a try !!
 
Looks like road tar to me. I would just use a good bug & tar remover and it will come off really quickly. I find Meguiar's Body Solvent works really well on tar.
 
MikeyC said:
Looks like road tar to me. I would just use a good bug & tar remover and it will come off really quickly. I find Meguiar's Body Solvent works really well on tar.
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That is exactly what I thought!
 
to start, i think you over did it with the lube, but thats ok. I use the poly clay alot and love it, you should have no problems with it.
as for a solution, i would start with a paint cleansing lotion first, get as much off as possible. for somthing like this, not used right before the wax ( like vw, lite cleanse). I would use the megs paint cleanser (partof the three step system. nto sure what its called). It works well for getting stuff off, its relitvily stong stuff, but will not hurt the paint.

I would apply as directed, do small areas at a time, make sure you dnt let it dry.
It wont make your paint perfeclty smooth but it will help.
After this I would clay. Becasue it sounds like there is alot of stuff this process will really help clean the paint before clay.

I would then follow with a paint cleanser more desineged as a pre wax pre. for example Victoria wax lite cleanse, It will help clean anything left on the paint, but it will also make the paint much deeper, its hard to explain.

This last step is just an extra that I like to do. alot of people think im craz for it.but hey thats just me.

I know you are in calgary, like myself. I think we should get togheter and i can help clean up that paint, and perhaps teach a thing or two. I would love to help with your rides, as well as teach you the propper prosses for things like polishing and claying (not that its hard) so that you can have perfect paint all the time.
Im outa town till the 8th ot 9th but after that, if you like. we can set up a time


p.s As for mineral spirits, These are strong. I woulndt play with them unless youhave to, no point in running the risk of hurting your paint
 
Pinnacle Ultra Poly clay is ultra fine grade, designed for frequent uses.
You will need a little more aggressive grade clay (yellow Pinnacle, or any clay will work) to work on a surface like that. By the way, have you tried Poorboy's Bug Squash, or Meguiar's Body Solvent on that?
 
So there you go; we have, for the most part,a consensus.

-Try some of the tar removers and perhaops paint cleaner - I personally have not used one yet, but I may take that suggestion on the worst of our vehicles - same color, but not so dirty. That is a mess you have on your hands.

-Once it is off, use stronger clay and don't use a whole bottle of lube.
We seem to largely agree.

I do not know what roads that car has been taken on, but I wouldn't have been on them. That does not look like fun - how long has it been baked on the car like that?
Lauren:o
 
Wow, thank you guys for the response. Really appreciate it.

Yes, it is road tar. It's probably been there for a few months now. I remember I drove down a road that had just been oiled and I couldn't by pass it. I usually don’t drive the Volvo because I really like it and would like to preserve it but the poor thing is in desperate need of attention. It has lots of rock chips too and I was even considering re-painting but I figured no harm on trying out the PC and product on it, I can't possibly make it worse...well I hope not.

CalgaryDetail, I will definitely take you up on that offer about sharing process and other stuff, I'll send you a PM. Let me know when you get back in town and I'd love to get together and show you what I got and you could give me some pointers. I'm curious about your comment on some of the products you mentioned. When I read your comment sounded like the stuff you were suggesting is strong? I don't want to bleach the car hahaha that's a joke. I just don't want to discolor the car (if that's even possible).

I thought that I may have gone a little over board with the lube but I figured better be safe then sorry. I'll have to adjust how much I use next time.

Looks like I'm going to have to hit the store(s) again and find some bug/tar remover. The problem here in Calgary is that it's so hard to find car products, well maybe it's not the town maybe it's me that hasn't looked hard enough.

So there are different kinds of clay bars. The one I currently have is the Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and yes I knew that this type of clay can be used as often as desired but the other type (not sure the name(s)) can only be used once or twice a year are stronger. What's the difference? Do they have more of a bite? I'm assuming so. Looks like I'm going to have to have one of each now, not that I mind.

Well, thank you for the help. I'll purchase some tar remover and go from there. Oh...any of you know how strong the Meguiars Quick Clay is, it's a white bar? I have some at home and I was about to give it a try.

Thank you for all the feed back, I'll keep you guys posted.
 
There is nothing wrong with ‘least aggressive first’ but then if that’s not working step up to the next aggressive level

Try a more aggressive clay, I would also suggest you use a solvent first, wash off (otherwise it will soften the clay and leave a residue)

Bituminous Asphalt Removal:
[:The term asphalt is often used as an abbreviation for asphalt concrete, asphalt refers to a mixture of mineral aggregate and bitumen (tarmac) Composed almost entirely of bitumen, which is a category of organic liquids that are highly viscous, black, sticky and wholly soluble in carbon disulfide, mostly made up of highly condensed polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons]

The reasoning for the use of solvents for the removal of bituminous asphalt is that it dissolves it as a means of removal, as opposed to rubbing it. Asphalt is very sticky and its presence on your paint means that harder particulate matter (dirt/grit) has also stuck to it. By agitating or rubbing the dirt/grit that is contained with the bituminous asphalt will cause surface marring or possibly scratching, dissolution alleviates any potential surface damage.

A safe solvent that does not contain any harmful components (heptanes or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents (Stoner™ Tarminator or New Car Prep – http;//www.autoint.com) that simply emulsifies and dissolves the bituminous asphalt / tar /grease when you spray it directly on the paint film surface It is important not to leave a solvent based chemical on the paint finish longer than is necessary. Simply apply to the affected area, allow sufficient dwell time, and carefully wipe off, you may have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of "dwell time" between applications. Wash and wipe the surface to remove the solvents (otherwise it will soften the caly and leave clay residue) and use detailer’s clay to remove ant grit / road dirt etc.


 
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TOGWT,

Thank you for the help, your a very resourceful person not to mention knowledgeable too. I appreciate the help.

I kinda thought that if I just polished it that I would make it worse and well you just confirmed that for me. Good thing I asked first.

I'm heading to the store as soon as there open.

I'll look for the stuff you recommended, hopefully I'll find it. I would love to purchase it from AG but I don't want to wait 5 days for delivery so I'll find something that works and go from there, I may order it from AG anyway but that will depend on what I find. I wish I was closer to AG, but maybe it's a good thing I'm not lol.
 
I have seen cars and trucks like this alot recently. I use WD-40. I spray it on and let sit. Sometimes for an hour or so while doing the interior. Second and third applications are sometimes ever required. It works better than anything to date. Has not hurt any paint either. You just have thoroughly wash and rewax.
 
MikeyC said:
Looks like road tar to me. I would just use a good bug & tar remover and it will come off really quickly. I find Meguiar's Body Solvent works really well on tar.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Trying to clay all of that off will take way too long. Try a bug & tar remover.
 
gandblah said:
That looks like tar....I've had good success with kerosene...you can give that a try !!
Click to expand...
I haven't used tar remover in quite some time(years)but if I recall correctly,they were kerosene based.I had my 1991 f-150 rustproofed and they provided a small bottle of kerosene to clean up any drippings that might occur.Get the tar off first and then clay.:D Good luck,learning can be a painful process sometimes;)
 
I'm with Justin use some WD-40 or possibly get some STONERS bug and tar and the directions say to let it sit before rinsing. Not sure on the time??
 
If this was my detail ... I would first wipe the area with Poorboys Bug Squash or Stoners Tarminator. Next I would presoak the area with P21S Total Body Wash (citic based cleaner). I would then wash -- clay--- polish -- and protect as usual.
 
Wow good advise guys thank you.

I got WD-40 so I'll give that a try next I'm going to follow your advice Killrsheels and order the products you suggested. There is no harm on having a stock of products for "just in case"....well at least I don't think so.

Thank you all for your help, I'll let you know how it turns out and ofcourse I'll show it off when I'm all done. I'm taking my time so you will probably see the Volvo completed (I'm hoping) by the first week of January. If I get stuck I know where to run to....YOU GUYS!!!
 
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