In line water filters

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molarman

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does anyone have any experience with the regular in line water filter vs the cr spotless system? cant really afford the cr system, but does the cheaper system keep water "spots" off without using mf towels?Feed back please
 
An in line filter will do nothing to prevent water spots

An in line water treatment system that uses resin can dramatically decrease water spots, but.....the small ones only work when using low water pressure.

I suggest using regular water to wash and then switch over to the treated water for final rinse and use the lowest flow spray setting.

I have the one from AGO and plan on upgrading to the CR Spotless version.

If I had it to do over again, I would skip the cheaper one and go straight to CR Spotless.
 
I run both. Seems to help the CR Spotless resin last longer.

IMG_1769_zpsf19cf8a0.jpg
 
I actually purchased the filter system by GG because it has a bypass valve that helps avoid wasting DI water when doing the wash process. I know they don't carry that GG product on AGO but I like mine.
 
I too have been looking at these. CR has a $250 one with a stand I have been thinking about...


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with the ro water I get from
e5e7eseg.jpg

which is 1-3 ppm , it significantly helps the resin last longer in my cr spotless
jupaduzu.jpg

I'm blessed that I have this ro water at unlimited supply but I have to haul it in by jugs and use in a port water tank , but I do more ww/rw than I do traditional washed by far .


chad
 
I can tell you that making RO water is painfully slow

I have a reef tank set up and making reverse osmosis deionized water as we speak. Takes about 2 hours for me to make 5 gallons.

And also consider the waste/useable ratio of the filter. Mine spits out way more "trash water" than what's going in the bucket :(.


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An alternative is just to buy distilled or RO water by the gallon/5 gallon and use it for your final rinse. Depending on the treatment system, the cost per gallon (to replace the resin) can run more than just buying water by the gallon. Especially when you start looking at RO water being as the membranes have a very limited lifetime. (I too have been down that road with aquariums.)
As Cleanfreeek mentioned, you'll send more water down the drain than you EVER get out of the membrane side of the system.
 
Reef shops are a good place to start looking for RO water. Also, look in your local classifieds for people selling water. I know autoglym is a PH balanced formula and when adding water to the bucket you'll actually see the colour change from the PH change.




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Cleanfreeek said:
Reef shops are a good place to start looking for RO water. Also, look in your local classifieds for people selling water. I know autoglym is a PH balanced formula and when adding water to the bucket you'll actually see the colour change from the PH change.




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Click to expand...


Tell me more.

What does PH have to do with mineral content of RO or DI water?
 
RO/DI water is pretty much 100% free of anything. I have a TDS meter and after months still reads 0 TDS.

The PH balanced soaps helps a little with water that is too low or high. It will help balance it. It won't remove minerals though. Some soaps say PH balanced. When I add it to the bucket it's green. When I add water it turns yellow


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Cleanfreeek said:
RO/DI water is pretty much 100% free of anything. I have a TDS meter and after months still reads 0 TDS.

The PH balanced soaps helps a little with water that is too low or high. It will help balance it. It won't remove minerals though. Some soaps say PH balanced. When I add it to the bucket it's green. When I add water it turns yellow


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Click to expand...

Helps in what way?
 
Most times when PH is involved yellow means a neutral of 7 or so. Neither too acidic or too soft. It won't completely eliminate but help. And a free flow rinse will also help eliminate spot.

If the OP wants RO water that's fine. They tend to be slow, waste water and just straight RO water will still have a readable total dissolved solids. Adding the deionized stage takes out the remaining TDS in the water to 100%.

With good quality charcoal/coconut fibre filter and a good sediment filet the 4th stage (membrane) will last a long time and be more effective.


Like I mentioned though they are slow unless you wanna spend $$$ on a high volume of gallons per day and a high ratio of filtered water and waste water. Most are 4/1 so 4 gallons waste to 1 gallon good.


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Cleanfreeek said:
Most times when PH is involved yellow means a neutral of 7 or so. Neither too acidic or too soft. It won't completely eliminate but help. And a free flow rinse will also help eliminate spot.

If the OP wants RO water that's fine. They tend to be slow, waste water and just straight RO water will still have a readable total dissolved solids. Adding the deionized stage takes out the remaining TDS in the water to 100%.

With good quality charcoal/coconut fibre filter and a good sediment filet the 4th stage (membrane) will last a long time and be more effective.


Like I mentioned though they are slow unless you wanna spend $$$ on a high volume of gallons per day and a high ratio of filtered water and waste water. Most are 4/1 so 4 gallons waste to 1 gallon good.


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I don't think PH has anything to do with water spots


A PH balanced soap should not change the PH of the water, as it is neutral


What am I missing here?
 
allenk4 said:
I don't think PH has anything to do with water spots


A PH balanced soap should not change the PH of the water, as it is neutral


What am I missing here?
Click to expand...

I think he is speaking to RO processes, which remove mostly acids for balance - DI processes remove more of TDS. So if combining both you get 100% but RO + DI is a little overkill.
 
allenk4 said:
I don't think PH has anything to do with water spots


A PH balanced soap should not change the PH of the water, as it is neutral


What am I missing here?
Click to expand...


The water coming out of your tap won't be neutral. It will fluctuate. I'm not a scientist. Do some reading. I'm out. Wasting my time


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allenk4 said:
I don't think PH has anything to do with water spots


A PH balanced soap should not change the PH of the water, as it is neutral


What am I missing here?
Click to expand...

I agree here. I don't think pH has much if anything to do with water spots. I believe most tap water is slightly basic (pH ~8), so I guess one could make the argument that basic water has more calcium carbonate - therefore you are more likely to get water spots from calcium.

But, technically, tap water is rarely neutral. However, I don't think the pH is usually off from neutral enough to be what I would call "clinically significant". I don't think it matters much - assuming your not using water that ran off from Three Mile Island's meltdown.

Basically, IMHO pH has little or nothing to do with water spots - therefore "pH neutral or neutralizing soaps" (so they claim) - will have little affect on water spots.

I believe any soap that claims to "soften water" really doesn't do much either. Really, the trick is just to use a good soap and some type of DI water for your final rinse. To me "pH neutral" is another one of those buzz words, like "nano technology" or "nano bridges"(my favorite) that in real life doesn't amount to much.

There are tons of detailing products advertised out there as "pH neutral" that are not. Nobody is regulating this stuff - so you just have to stick to quality brands and recommendations from guys who are the real deal IMHO.
 
swanicyouth said:
I agree here. I don't think pH has much if anything to do with water spots. I believe most tap water is slightly basic (pH ~8), so I guess one could make the argument that basic water has more calcium carbonate - therefore you are more likely to get water spots from calcium.

But, technically, tap water is rarely neutral. However, I don't think the pH is usually off from neutral enough to be what I would call "clinically significant". I don't think it matters much - assuming your not using water that ran off from Three Mile Island's meltdown.

Basically, IMHO pH has little or nothing to do with water spots - therefore "pH neutral or neutralizing soaps" (so they claim) - will have little affect on water spots.

I believe any soap that claims to "soften water" really doesn't do much either. Really, the trick is just to use a good soap and some type of DI water for your final rinse. To me "pH neutral" is another one of those buzz words, like "nano technology" or "nano bridges"(my favorite) that in real life doesn't amount to much.

There are tons of detailing products advertised out there as "pH neutral" that are not. Nobody is regulating this stuff - so you just have to stick to quality brands and recommendations from guys who are the real deal IMHO.
Click to expand...


Well put
 
I've been reading cr spotless website and information isn't clear to me. how many gallons do they typically hold, how long does resin last. What's the difference between the resin tubes and the resin in the bags. If I read correctly the resin doesn't last very long. It must be a very difficult process if resin doesn't last long
 
Not sure this works but im saving the dehumidifier water for the rinse. I'm gonna see if it works this weekend
 
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