Introducing!! Pinnacle black label!!!

[kevincwelch]

One question. Why should i get the Pinnacle Black Label Cleansing Polish vs the DP coating prep polish? I just wanna know what the difference is, since the price point/product amound is quite different. If i was to get this tho id be using it on different coatings.

Why would you need any specific polish? (Serious question.)

I would think that any polish to rid your car of any swirls and other defects would be sufficient as long as you completely wipe the surface of any oils or other contaminants such that the coating bonds securely to just the paint.

 

[Chris's FX4]

Why would you need any specific polish? (Serious question.)

I would think that any polish to rid your car of any swirls and other defects would be sufficient as long as you completely wipe the surface of any oils or other contaminants such that the coating bonds securely to just the paint.

DP Coating Prep Polish and BL Surface Cleansing Polish require no IPA or Eraser wipe down before applying a coating, wax, or sealant since they don't contain any oils, waxes, silicone, polymers, or fillers.

 

[MarkD51]

I'm feeling like "chopped liver" over here, with so much of the new products (for the past year) going out to other forumites.

Who do I have to kill to get a few samples!? LOL
Mark

 

[dcjredline]

I second that!!!

I'm feeling like "chopped liver" over here, with so much of the new products (for the past year) going out to other forumites.

Who do I have to kill to get a few samples!? LOL
Mark

Sent from my SCH-I405 using AG Online

 

[statusdetailing]

I can understand if the paint is in good condition, using the prep polish before applying the coating, but...

What if I'm performing a major paint correction and have the paint finished down exactly how I want it? Can I not do an IPA wipe and then apply the coating? Theoretically, wouldn't the paint be laser clean after an IPA wipe. This would save a tremendous amount of time, as opposed to doing another polishing step.

 

[statusdetailing]

I just noticed the polish can be applied by hand, so I guess it wouldn't really be very difficult to apply a little to a mf towel and do a wipe.

 

[BlackHawk]

Why would you need any specific polish? (Serious question.)

I would think that any polish to rid your car of any swirls and other defects would be sufficient as long as you completely wipe the surface of any oils or other contaminants such that the coating bonds securely to just the paint.

I don't think you understand my question. I don't need swirl removal, I just want a polish to clean the paint prior to coating it. No correction. I'm trying to understand why I should get the black label paint cleanser vs the DP coating prep. Both same price, both supposedly do the same, but one is 16oz. n the other is 8oz.

 

[isai05]

I don't think you understand my question. I don't need swirl removal, I just want a polish to clean the paint prior to coating it. No correction. I'm trying to understand why I should get the black label paint cleanser vs the DP coating prep. Both same price, both supposedly do the same, but one is 16oz. n the other is 8oz.

BLackHawk idk if this help but in this two threads Mike.Philips wrote I believe he use the DP coating prep then the Black Label paint coating.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...247-lady-red-1986-porsche-4-step-process.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/rough-draft/72389-review-black-label-diamond-paint-coating.html

 

[wdmaccord]

Ur kidding right? Look at the posts on this page...

Ur kidding right? Really? I've been reading the thread all day (and re-read it before I asked the question). Nothing about sand and rocks flying at the front end of a car at 70+ mph. I don't think I would ask if it had been specifically addressed already. Your comments about scratching and marring from brush have nothing to do with tiny debris at highway speeds. Sorry to have to waste your time with my question.

 

[kevincwelch]

What if I'm performing a major paint correction and have the paint finished down exactly how I want it? Can I not do an IPA wipe and then apply the coating? Theoretically, wouldn't the paint be laser clean after an IPA wipe. This would save a tremendous amount of time, as opposed to doing another polishing step.

BlackHawk (as below), the question I thought you were asking was what was being asked by statusdetailing.

I was thinking along the lines that if you are doing a correction, you would just need to do an IPA wipe or Eraser or (e.g., Gtechniq Panel Wipe) before applying Pinnacle or DP coating.

I don't think you understand my question. I don't need swirl removal, I just want a polish to clean the paint prior to coating it. No correction. I'm trying to understand why I should get the black label paint cleanser vs the DP coating prep. Both same price, both supposedly do the same, but one is 16oz. n the other is 8oz.

 

[BlackHawk]

Ur kidding right? Really? I've been reading the thread all day (and re-read it before I asked the question). Nothing about sand and rocks flying at the front end of a car at 70+ mph. I don't think I would ask if it had been specifically addressed already. Your comments about scratching and marring from brush have nothing to do with tiny debris at highway speeds. Sorry to have to waste your time with my question.

Well hmm lemme think now if light brush going againt paint is a no go then i would think sand blasting a car would be the same? Dont you think?


Besides, if you read some of the previous posts Nick already stated that it makes the paint more resistant to marring and very light swirling. No where in there do i read and and rocks.

Use some common sense here. This is a coating that puts a super tiny bit of a fake "clear" on the car as a protective barrier, so to speak. What makes you think it would be resistant against sand and rocks?....

 

[BlackHawk]

BlackHawk (as below), the question I thought you were asking was what was being asked by statusdetailing.

I was thinking along the lines that if you are doing a correction, you would just need to do an IPA wipe or Eraser or (e.g., Gtechniq Panel Wipe) before applying Pinnacle or DP coating.

Understood. I just wanted to clarify a bit. If i was doing work on a persons car then of course IPA wipe would be my go to, but for my personal vehicle i was wondering which of the two would be "better" so to speak.


I just think its kind of funny how both paint prepping polishes are pretty much the same exact thing, except one is double the price. Kinda makes you wonder about other things too. Like the whole separating coatings into different categories. I mean im pretty sure if i buy the wheel coating (which is cheaper for who knows what reason) i can apply that to the paint of a car too, along with glass. The coating doesnt know what you're applying it onto last time i checked. Plus, isnt the paint on rims the same as the paint on the body of the car?...

 

[kevincwelch]

I just think its kind of funny how both paint prepping polishes are pretty much the same exact thing, except one is double the price. Kinda makes you wonder about other things too. Like the whole separating coatings into different categories. I mean im pretty sure if i buy the wheel coating (which is cheaper for who knows what reason) i can apply that to the paint of a car too, along with glass. The coating doesnt know what you're applying it onto last time i checked. Plus, isnt the paint on rims the same as the paint on the body of the car?...

Basically what I was asking when I asked about the differences between the "surface" coating and the "paint" coating. There may be some molecular differences among the different coatings, but is there really any significant difference in performance? That's the question I have. Same for the polishes.

I guess the only way to tell is to do a 50/50 on one's hood and compare the results. (See you in 3 years!!!)

 

[olenderc]

To hopefully alleviate some of your guys' questions, you can read a more in-depth review/use of the Black Label Diamond Coating found here: Black Label Diamond Coating Application Guide

I'll just use one particular snippet to answer some of the questions regarding which prep-polish to use for this particular application:

"The most important step in prepping the surface for application of a Diamond coating is to use Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish. If you do not use Surface Cleansing Polish before applying one of the Diamond coatings, the result will be complete failure of the coating."

I can't say how explicitly it is to be implied that the Black Label-specific prep-polish is the only "prep-polish" that will work, but it seems pretty evident there isn't much leeway.

Hopefully, this answers some of the questions floating around! :dblthumb2:

 

[olenderc]

Understood. I just wanted to clarify a bit. If i was doing work on a persons car then of course IPA wipe would be my go to, but for my personal vehicle i was wondering which of the two would be "better" so to speak.


I just think its kind of funny how both paint prepping polishes are pretty much the same exact thing, except one is double the price. Kinda makes you wonder about other things too. Like the whole separating coatings into different categories. I mean im pretty sure if i buy the wheel coating (which is cheaper for who knows what reason) i can apply that to the paint of a car too, along with glass. The coating doesnt know what you're applying it onto last time i checked. Plus, isnt the paint on rims the same as the paint on the body of the car?...

You make a good point in suggesting it is possible to use products with similar characteristics on surfaces for which it was not intended, however, you must remember there is a lot of research that goes into making products such as these. There is far more happening with respect to chemical reactions, bonding of two particles, and the compatibility of one product on a different medium. Though a product may appear to be compatible on another surface, it may not actually be the case.

For example, you can't use rattle-can quality clear coat on something like a car panel and expect it to look, function and perform similarly to professional grade clear coat used in paint booths. Not the most direct of analogies but hopefully you get my point.

 

[kevincwelch]

"The most important step in prepping the surface for application of a Diamond coating is to use Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish. If you do not use Surface Cleansing Polish before applying one of the Diamond coatings, the result will be complete failure of the coating."

Yeah, I don't think that really states anything informative other than an unequivocal warning that you have to buy and use one product to get results from another. That could be purely marketing strategy.

I read nothing in the description of the polish that states that it is anything other than a 100% water-based nonabrasive polish that leaves no contaminants behind or that its advantage is that there is no second step after application (i.e., IPA wipe).

 

[kevincwelch]

You make a good point in suggesting it is possible to use products with similar characteristics on surfaces for which it was not intended, however, you must remember there is a lot of research that goes into making products such as these. There is far more happening with respect to chemical reactions, bonding of two particles, and the compatibility of one product on a different medium. Though a product may appear to be compatible on another surface, it may not actually be the case.

True, but the science behind the nano coatings is that the particles bond with the paint. Now if you're going to argue that the polish prep helps cross linking and polymerization, then OK -- now I understand. I doubt it since the polish is 100% water-based.

This polish seems to be an easy-to-use nonabrasive polish to clean everything down to the paint that doesn't require a subsequent IPA wipe. Nothing else.

 

[Nick McKees37]

To answer a couple questions:

Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish must be used before application of any of the Diamond coatings. Not only does this product prep the surface by removing embedded dirt and polishing oils/fillers left behind by other polishes, it promotes proper bonding of the coating(s) as well. IPA, while effective at removing polishing oils, doesn't necessarily leave the surface 100% clean.

Compared to DP Coating Prep Polish, Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish was formulated for paint, glass, and wheels. Not only is the formula beefed up for application on the aforementioned surfaces, it is thicker and easier to work with. Depending on your application method, you'll also end up using less product.

Hope that helps. :dblthumb2:

 

[kevincwelch]

IPA, while effective at removing polishing oils, doesn't necessarily leave the surface 100% clean.

That answers it. Basically, you need to have a 100% clean surface. This can be accomplished a number of ways.

Thank you for developing this line. Looking forward to trying it out.

 

[FUNX650]

Now if you're going to argue that the polish prep helps cross linking and polymerization, then OK -- now I understand.

I doubt it since the polish is 100% water-based.

I could be wrong...
But I believe it's been noted on this forum that, even though products...including polishes...are stated to be 100% water-based:
They are still emulsions...Emulsions that contains surfactants, in order to be so.

Is this applicable to this PBL "cleaning"-polish?
If so:
-It evidently doesn't interfere with...Nay!...It is a prerequisite to PBL Coatings applications.
-Will it interfere with applications of other brands of Coatings, if so used prior to their applications?
-Where do the surfactants "go"?



Bob