IPA or Cleaner Wax prior to LSP

2011wahoo

2011wahoo

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I have read discussions about people using an IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) wipe down after polishing and prior to applying a sealant/wax/glaze in order to check for surface defects and provide a clean surface for your LSP (however many LSP's prefer oils on the surface to fully bond). There are also paint cleaners to prep the surface prior to applying an LSP. A 3rd approach is to go straight from your final polishing step to the application of an LSP. Which of the three do you prefer, what are the advantages and disadvantages of each, and are there certain situations where one is better than the other?
 
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2011wahoo said:
I have read discussions about people using an IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) wipe down after polishing and prior to applying a sealant/wax/glaze in order to check for surface defects and provide a clean surface for your LSP (however many LSP's prefer oils on the surface to fully bond). There are also cleaner waxes to prep the surface prior to applying an LSP. A 3rd approach is to go straight from your final polishing step to the application of an LSP. Which of the three do you prefer, what are the advantages and disadvantages of each, and are there certain situations where one is better than the other?
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You don't want to use a cleaner wax because it is not going to remove any left over polish like a paint cleaner or IPA wipe down, plus it fills. The IPA wipe down is going to be the best because it is not going to leave anything behind and you will get a true look at your finish. The paint cleaner isn't a bad way to go either but sometimes does not remove all the left over polish.
 
Sorry about that, when I said "cleaner wax" I meant "paint cleaner" it's now fixed. Do you ALWAYS use an IPA wipe down after polishing?
 
2011wahoo said:
Sorry about that, when I said "cleaner wax" I meant "paint cleaner" it's now fixed. Do you ALWAYS use an IPA wipe down after polishing?
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Yes and after every polish step. Now if it is my cars and I just go over it real quick with a final polish I will use a paint cleaner.
 
Any more suggestions out there, I know some people have to have opinions on this topic?
 
I was sold on IPA after I was examining paint with my Brinkman and noticed a slight non-uniform haziness after removing polish with a mf towel. I went and mixed up some IPA from the house, sprayed and wiped, and the paint was perfectly clear (no haze) with the Brinkman. Without the Brinkman, it would have not been easily seen.

Microfiber absorbs a lot but it cannot remove everything without some help (alcohol as a solvent) at times.
 
2011wahoo said:
Sorry about that, when I said "cleaner wax" I meant "paint cleaner" it's now fixed.

Do you ALWAYS use an IPA wipe down after polishing?
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ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Yes and after every polish step.
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Just to note, there's no right or wrong way when it comes to methodology of buffing out the paint, it really comes down to personal opinion and preferences.

On that note, while Dana aka Asphalt Rocket likes to do an IPA wipe down after every step I've posted another option on page 3 of this thread with some follow-up threads to check out.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/21326-2006-topless-mustang-3.html


Here's an exerpt...

Most chemists formulate their product to have a chemical synergistic compatibility, That is the chemist best knows how to make all the follow-up products in a system because they formulated the initial use or first step products in the system.

I'm not sure I've ever read any car wax manufacture recommend to chemically strip paint after using their products before going on to the next step.

But just to make sure everyone's clear, this is a personal preference and no one will deny that Dana aka Asphalt Rocket is not good at what he does, so feel free to try his method but I want to point out in this thread for everyone that will read it into the future, that it's not recommended by the manufacture of the M105 and M205 to chemically strip the paint and it's not necessary if you do a Test Spot first and insure that you're getting the results you''re looking for in your Test Spot.

Then the idea being if you're getting great results in your Test Spot, (which you can do an IPA wipe down to insure you're getting an accurate reading of your results), then there's no reason to wipe the entire car down if you're simply duplicating what you did in your test spot to the rest of the paint on the car.


Here's a thread that talks about chemically stripping the finish with lots of pictures that show why it's not necessary if you're using good technique to start with.

1-Step versus 3-Step Process by Hand


Test Spot
Here's a thread with a video that explains how and why to do a Test Spot before attempting to buff out your entire Mustang. This video uses a Flex 3401 but the principals apply no matter which tool you're using and even if you're working by hand.


How to do a Test Spot using the Flex 3401

The above is a portion taken from this write-up

1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!
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So do some testing and decide for yourself which approach works best for you...


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder...


:)
 
Mike,

I have a follow up question to what you just posted...

Suppose I am using the M105/M205 combination on a heavily swirled car and I use a test spot, as you suggest and find one good pass with M105, followed by M205 does the trick.

I confirm (in my test spot) with an IPA wipedown. Does this ensure that I all remaining areas of the car will yield the same results?

I guess my question is, should I be able to remove all swirls at the same pace or is it possible some areas might be more difficult to remove (and I'm only talking swirls, not RIDS).
 
Without doing some searching - what IPA mixture do you use Dana? Straight? 1:1 What % alcohol?
I ask because I did an IPA (71% I think) wipe down on a car I had just compounded the other day and it left streaks in places (I was going back over it again, so no big deal, it just didn't seam right).

DLB
 
Dalton Blevins said:
Without doing some searching - what IPA mixture do you use Dana? Straight? 1:1 What % alcohol?
I ask because I did an IPA (71% I think) wipe down on a car I had just compounded the other day and it left streaks in places (I was going back over it again, so no big deal, it just didn't seam right).

DLB
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I use the 91% straight, when mixing it I have found it doesn't always remove all the polish residue.
 
Tesla said:
Suppose I am using the M105/M205 combination on a heavily swirled car and I use a test spot, as you suggest and find one good pass with M105, followed by M205 does the trick.

I confirm (in my test spot) with an IPA wipedown. Does this ensure that I all remaining areas of the car will yield the same results?
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Generally speaking, if the swirls you're trying to remove are equal in depth throughout the finish and they usually are except for RIDS then duplicating what works in one area should give you the same results over the rest of the car.

Actually, from experience swirls are often times worse on the hood than the sides so if your process is working on the hood it should easily work on the sides.

Of course skill and experience will be a big factor and again, it's personal preference, if you feel better chemically stripping the entire finish panel by panel as you work around the car then by all means that's the way you should buff out car.

There is no right or wrong way when it comes to this topic, it's all about you and your personal preference.

:props:
 
I use IA after polishing and then go to LSP.

If I'm not polishing the paint, then I use a paint cleaner.
 
Mike, do you have to spray? I mean can you soak a MF in IPA and wipe the panel then follow up with a dry MF? Thanks
 
99tl said:
Mike,

Do use mineral spirits straight or diluted? Is it just mineral spirits you buy at the hardware store?

thanks
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Straight. Not sure what you would dilute it with? I usually buy Klean-Strip brand at Lowe's or Home Depot.

Finemess said:
Mike, do you have to spray? I mean can you soak a MF in IPA and wipe the panel then follow up with a dry MF? Thanks
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Wiping with a saturated microfiber would really bring a lot of stripping ability to the surface, I've usually just sprayed really well, even 2-3 times and then wiped as saturating a cloth starts to get more complicated to do on-the-fly.

:)
 
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