IPA wipedown to remove polymers?

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Autogk

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Im trying to determine if my OC 2.0 failed. My hood is not beading in this morning's rain storm (it's just soaked with a pool of water). All other panels are somewhat beading. There is a lot of pollen in the air and this may be the cause but my wife's vehicle is beading better with a 2 month old sealant.
I wash with ONR and need to remove the polymers it leaves behind, otherwise I may get false results. All of my other washes contain wax, so no help there.
So does anyone know if an IPA wipedown will remove the polymers left behind by ONR?

Thanks
 
The problem with your theory is that the ONR polymers should be helping with the beading, not hindering it.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
The problem with your theory is that the ONR polymers should be helping with the beading, not hindering it.
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No, we are on the same page. I'm trying to remove the polymers bc I don't want the polymers to cause the beading. I want to test my coating.
 
If I was you I would clay it and then wipe down with IPA. I'm sorry to tell you this, but if you think your OC may have failed - it probably has. My roof is OC'ed and it beads strongly no matter how dirty/filthy/salt covered the car is. Of course I'm sure it's possible for some contaminate to kill the beading, but it's not easy IME.

Maybe this could help... On a flat surface or a hood, OC beading should look like this:

egehemu7.jpg
 
swanicyouth said:
If I was you I would clay it and then wipe down with IPA. I'm sorry to tell you this, but if you think your OC may have failed - it probably has. My roof is OC'ed and it beads strongly no matter how dirty/filthy/salt covered the car is. Of course I'm sure it's possible for some contaminate to kill the beading, but it's not easy IME.

Maybe this could help... On a flat surface or a hood, OC beading should look like this:

egehemu7.jpg
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Thanks. I just don't get it. I just applied it a few weeks ago. And I even applied a second coat (within 1 week of the 1st,optimum told me this was ok as long as it's in the 30 day curing window).
I clayed and did a paint correction, followed by Detailers Coating prep polish.
 
Autogk said:
Thanks. I just don't get it. I just applied it a few weeks ago. And I even applied a second coat (within 1 week of the 1st,optimum told me this was ok as long as it's in the 30 day curing window).
I clayed and did a paint correction, followed by Detailers Coating prep polish.
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Dunno. I use all Optimum products when I did this as they recommend. I think it's important to follow coating manufacturers instructions to a T using the exact products they recommend for prep.

With Optimum, it's an Optimum polish followed by an IPA wipe down.
 
swanicyouth said:
Dunno. I use all Optimum products when I did this as they recommend. I think it's important to follow coating manufacturers instructions to a T using the exact products they recommend for prep.

With Optimum, it's an Optimum polish followed by an IPA wipe down.
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AG recommends the Detailers prep polish, that's why I bought it. I'm hoping it's just the pollen layer preventing beading.
 
How thick or how thin did you apply the coating?

Did you let the coating sit and level for 5-10 mins before removing and excess?

Did you let the sit for at a minimum of 24 hours and not being exposed
To any moisture?

After you did the entire car how much coating was left over?

I've used the prep polish numerous times with coatings and I have yet to have an issue.

I'm not a huge fan of layering OC
 
Evan.J said:
How thick or how thin did you apply the coating?

Did you let the coating sit and level for 5-10 mins before removing and excess?


Did you let the sit for at a minimum of 24 hours and not being exposed
To any moisture?

After you did the entire car how much coating was left over?

I've used the prep polish numerous times with coatings and I have yet to have an issue.

I'm not a huge fan of layering OC
Click to expand...

I did 3 applications bc I have a fullsize truck and couldn't do the whole job in one day (paint correction).
First application: I used about 6 CC for my front doors, fenders and hood. The next day I went under an overpass and a little water hit the hood and beaded nicely.
Second application: A few days later, I applied to my rear doors, fenders and rear gate. On the same day I applied another coat to the front doors, fenders and hood bc I thought I may have missed a few spots and wiped some panels to soon w my initial application (that was my learning curve).
Third application: did my roof and second coat on the rear doors, fenders, gate.

On my second and third application I made sure to let it flash off. I did pretty well on my first application just may have wiped a couple sections too soon, but probably not.

I have 9 CC left over.

If it makes any difference I'm parked under a tree and had pollen on the hood. Could the pollen/run off from the tree be causing OC to not bead?
I want to believe it's still on there bc I can still see a small water spot outline from the day water dripped on the hood which I'm pretty sure was in the coating.
 
Update: I still haven't washed my truck since we had the downpour bc the weather has had rain in the forecast every day. The downpour washed off the fuzzy coating of pollen and just left some spots/temporary stains. Today it's raining and the whole truck is full of small tight beads, except the hood. The hood beaded but not as tight (I'm guessing bc of the dirt). I was surprised to find the sides beading as I thought it would run off. But I'm happy to see beading!
 
Autogk said:
Update: I still haven't washed my truck since we had the downpour bc the weather has had rain in the forecast every day. The downpour washed off the fuzzy coating of pollen and just left some spots/temporary stains. Today it's raining and the whole truck is full of small tight beads, except the hood. The hood beaded but not as tight (I'm guessing bc of the dirt). I was surprised to find the sides beading as I thought it would run off. But I'm happy to see beading!
Click to expand...

Great to hear!

Pollen is a beading killer :props:
 
Like Evan said, pollen is wicked stuff and i wonder how detrimental it is to the durability of any wax/sealant/coating. And it most likely has its worst affects on the top facing panels where it sits for longer periods of time.

I will never forget a photo i saw somewhere of a single pollen spore magnified several times and it reminded me of a medieval spike ball looking thing. Now put thousands upon thousands of those little spike balls all over you coated paint and i have no doubt they'll abrade away your LSP.

In any event, i wouldn't get discouraged with OC.
 
Puckman said:
Like Evan said, pollen is wicked stuff and i wonder how detrimental it is to the durability of any wax/sealant/coating. And it most likely has its worst affects on the top facing panels where it sits for longer periods of time.

I will never forget a photo i saw somewhere of a single pollen spore magnified several times and it reminded me of a medieval spike ball looking thing. Now put thousands upon thousands of those little spike balls all over you coated paint and i have no doubt they'll abrade away your LSP.

In any event, i wouldn't get discouraged with OC.
Click to expand...

Here you go

image282.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I was getting discouraged since I spent so much time prepping and applying over the course of a couple weeks and I still have yet to do the glass and wheels (I have a different coating on the wheels and it's a pain to remove it). Next, I'm doing my wife's vehicle.
Can't wait to give my truck a bath this weekend and really test beading and sheeting.
 
So I think all the advice you need has been given, but I'd just chime in that I'd firstly wash the car with a strong APC mix, if needed a mild clay bar treatment or non abrasive paint cleanser on a black LC CCS pad or similar jeweling pad.

After all those steps, you've pretty much restored the full performance of OC and check your beading/sheeting behavior. I wouldn't risk the use of a polish as it may remove the OC itself.
 
Vivant511 said:
So I think all the advice you need has been given, but I'd just chime in that I'd firstly wash the car with a strong APC mix, if needed a mild clay bar treatment or non abrasive paint cleanser on a black LC CCS pad or similar jeweling pad.

After all those steps, you've pretty much restored the full performance of OC and check your beading/sheeting behavior. I wouldn't risk the use of a polish as it may remove the OC itself.
Click to expand...

Well since the coating is only a few weeks old, I was going to wash with Meg's Gold Class and a cap full of ONR (2BM).
 
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