ipa wipedown

Bunky said:
I just tried a sample of Griot's Pre-wax Cleaner. It is citrus based (smells like oranges). It did seem easier to remove (felt better) than using IPA. I have no way to compare to effectiveness but I think I used less in the end.
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I thought about buying this myself. I wonder if this also leaves behind some sort of residue even after wiping? :laughing: Gotta love detailing!
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I've used Mineral Spirits or an APC and never had any problems.

:)
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I have no direct detailing knowledge of comparing the reactivity, safety, or "harshness" or IPA and mineral spirits on clear coat.

However, from a chemistry perspective I would be more worried about mineral spirits as a solvent than isopropyl alchohol. Due to its structure, IPA is even more unreactive that ethyl alcohol/ethanol (common alcohol), or methanol is. With that said it is hard to compare the reactivity of IPA with clear coat without knowing the chemistry of the clear coat paint, which I don't.

After reading this I am going to be careful with both.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just a warning... recently when doing a test spot I was doing an IPA wipe-down to check the results and some of the Isopropyl Alcohol penetrated under the painter's tape and dwelled while I continued to do some testing. (I had placed a single strip of painter's tape to better show before and after results).

Later when I removed the painter's tape there were two places that the clear paint wrinkled.

This really surprised me as this was a factory clear finish and I was under the assumption that IPA wouldn't cause any harm to the paint.

Luckily, I was able to undo the damage but I wasn't a big fan of doing IPA wipe-downs in the past and I'm even less of a fan now.

So be careful...


:)
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Sorry to bump this old thread but would like to share similar experience I had as a warning.

The case was different though. I was doing a minor but deep scratch repair on my car and I had used masking tape to cover outer area. I sprayed the paint then a lilFinishing Solvent Spray as the per the paint manufacturers instruction. Later after the paint dried, I remove the masking tape but damn, paint was wrinkled. :(

Fortunately the damage area was small but still can be seen.

I had used the same products few times before and it never harmed the paint but I didn't used masking tap before.

So I too believe its chemical reaction between masking tap or its adhesive.

WARNING AGAIN: Becare full when using cleaning chemicals + adhesives

Thanks...
Best Regards
 
CEE DOG said:
...What do you guys think about ONR wipedown instead of alcohol? Not strong enough to remove the oils?
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I appreciate this is a very old question however I do think there is some validity in using ONR or maybe other similar products. For quite a while I had been using ONR to clean up the kitchen hob. As long as the dirt and oils were quite light the ONR had no problems.

This made me think if ONR can remove light oil from a hob then it might be able to remove polishing oils. So, I tried smearing some polish (Menz Power Gloss) on a glass mirror and tried different things to remove all traces of the oil. IPA worked well if given a few seconds to dwell but so did ONR. The biggest difference is IPA left a very slight haze although this was very easily removed and possibly indicated the dilution mixture was a bit high. No such problems with the ONR.

Obviously using a mirror is not a true analogue of paint but it did show a rinseless product can remove light oils. Maybe if someone is going to use a coating then something stronger maybe be required

Of course, it would have been better to respond to this two years ago but timing was never my strong point
 
i think if you use something like show car glaze like i do before waxing you want the oils to penetrate preferably overnight. an ipa wipe down after that would defeat the purpose for me. im just here researching paint chip repair
 
Mike Phillips said:
I have never heard of or seen this happen before either that's why it surprised me.



Very carefully by hand using M105 and a foam applicator pad.



I use MS more than anything because I like how it wipes off. APC's tend to make the paint look smeary like IPA and you have to wipe more to get clear, no smear finish. If I use an APC I will spray it on and wipe it off using a microfiber towel.

I don't know the dilution levels for other APC's only Meguiar's as I had to get this from Jason Rose accuracy reasons... You can use either APC or APC+ to remove or strip car waxes and paint sealants from your car's paint. This is technically for what's called de-waxing but the same principals apply to removing any unwanted film or residual polshing oils off the surface for inspection.

64:1 For a regular car wax type products
20:1 For hi-tech polymer type products


It's also recommended to chemically strip paint before damp-sanding to insure not chemicals sand off and load-up or contaminate your paper or discs.


It's a good idea to test any product on any coating if you've never worked on it before and you're unfamiliar with it.


:)
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Thank you for your great advice Mike. I do have a question, what does MS stand for?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
HI Mike,

For MS..........do you just do a small section at a time - spray and wipe off? Out of sunlight? or in the shade? I have never used that on paint on my car, so just want to make sure of the process that you use? I plan to apply Mequairs Poly Sealant, then waxing...........why I am asking. Thanks.
 
bradycat said:
HI Mike,

For MS..........do you just do a small section at a time - spray and wipe off?

Out of sunlight? or in the shade?


I have never used that on paint on my car, so just want to make sure of the process that you use? I plan to apply Mequairs Poly Sealant, then waxing...........why I am asking. Thanks.
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Hi bradycat,

IF I were to chemically strip paint using Mineral Spirits before sealing the paint I would work a manageable section at a time, that's no larger than 2' by 2' because the product will try to evaporate before you can wipe it if you do any larger section.


And yes, do it out of direct sunlight as heat from sun will force any product to evaporate faster than no heat from the sun, so yeah... in shade or in a garage.

MOST IMPORTANT - you don't need to chemically strip paint before applying most waxes and synthetic sealants UNLESS the manufacturer tells you do do this.

If you look at the directions for Meguiar's M21 Polymer Sealant, it does NOT direct you to chemically strip the paint before using the product.

This is a bunch of mis-information shared all over the Internet by people that probably mean well but are not chemists.


:)
 
Also...

Read my article on this topic here, I invested a little time to do the research and then share the inforamation to help people understnad why they DON'T have to chemcially strip paint before using waxes and sealants.

This is UNLIKE what most people do, (research and investing time writing), which is just just repeat what they read, i.e. tell others they need to chemically strip their paint before using a wax or sealant.


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding


As I often say on this forum...


Don't take something really very simple and turn it into rocket science.



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Also...

Read my article on this topic here, I invested a little time to do the research and then share the inforamation to help people understnad why they DON'T have to chemcially strip paint before using waxes and sealants.

This is UNLIKE what most people do, (research and investing time writing), which is just just repeat what they read, i.e. tell others they need to chemically strip their paint before using a wax or sealant.


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding


As I often say on this forum...


Don't take something really very simple and turn it into rocket science.



:)
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Hello Mike,

I appreciate your reply, and your knowledge on the topic. I just ordered Mequiar's Mirror Glaze # 20 polymer sealant from Autogeek :)

I was trying to look for instructions on the product online, but couldn't find anything, but if that is what you found on #21, I am guessing it will be the same on #20.
I am new to auto detailing and this is my first time to use a sealant and wanted to question the IPA or if it's needed, as I am getting confused by reading and watching videos on what to do.

I responded last nite to one of your threads, regarding how you give your expert advise, and some still question you. I would take your advise over someone who doesn't have your mastery of car detailing. Thank you for replying, and gotta say your website Autogeek rocks.:xyxthumbs:
 
bradycat said:
Hello Mike,

I appreciate your reply, and your knowledge on the topic. I just ordered Mequiar's Mirror Glaze # 20 polymer sealant from Autogeek :)

I was trying to look for instructions on the product online, but couldn't find anything, but if that is what you found on #21, I am guessing it will be the same on #20.
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Yes.

For the majority or car waxes and synthetic sealants on the market today and in the past, after doing any normal prep work, be it a simple wash and dry or a complex compound and polishing process, after you've finished these step you can go straight to the wax or sealant without chemically stripping the paint.

In fact - without super clean and high quality microfiber towels and a gentle touch, chances are good most people are inducing marring into their car's paint when they chemcially strip it or in other words wipe the paint down with a microfiber towel and some form of solvent that is NOT a great lubricant to start with.

Of course you won't see the marring on light colored cars, just dark and black colored cars, but if it's happending to dark colored cars chances are high it's happening to ALL colors of cars it's just the human eye cannot see the marring taking place.

M20 Polymer Sealatn is a great product. I used it, no counted on it for years when I detailed cars professionally full time. This was before the Internet and thus before hundreds of new brands of products that have popped up all over the place due to the fact the Internet made it possible for anyone to launch a product without the need for the traditional retail marketing avenue.


It has some light cleaning action so it is not a considered a pure sealant, but for most people and most cars, (most cars are daily drivers), then it is the perfect product as it will clean or remove any built-up road film as you apply it thus creating a more clear or more beautiful finish.

After applying it, allow it to fully dry and you will find it wipes off SUPER easy and leaves the paint very slick and slippery.

I would suggest moving forward to start a new and dedicated thread for your detailing questions instead of tagging them onto this established thread.

There is never anything wrong with reviving an old thread but because you have great questions, a better use of your time and my typing time would be share these questions, comments and answers in a thread that started with a title like,

Necessary to use IPA before a sealant?

Or

Tips for using Meguiar's M20 Polymer Sealant


:)





I am new to auto detailing and this is my first time to use a sealant and wanted to question the IPA or if it's needed, as I am getting confused by reading and watching videos on what to do.

I responded last nite to one of your threads, regarding how you give your expert advise, and some still question you. I would take your advise over someone who doesn't have your mastery of car detailing. Thank you for replying, and gotta say your website Autogeek rocks.:xyxthumbs:[/QUOTE]
 
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