Iron Removers?

I have used CarPro IronX and Dodo Juice Ferrous Iron Remover.

- Shortest dwell/wait time --> IronX
- Fast acting --> IronX
- Tolerance in sunlight --> Dodo Ferrous
- Longest dwell time / shortest bleed off --> Dodo Ferrous
- Foulest smell --> IronX

In short, I gave my nod to Dodo because it is more forgiving and user friendly.

I don't have a garage and the long dwell time suits me better. I don't mind waiting a little longer for the product to work since it won't dry out as fast as IronX would, and the odor being a bit more pleasant doesn't hurt either.

Alas, AGO hasn't put the Liter size from Dodo out in ~ 6 mos. so I went with Optimum's product at 20% off on Autopia. We'll see soon enough....
 
The Auto Finesse Iron Out is really good. I have the problem of them drying as well. I don't believe it hurts the paint. But, what I do is apply the iron product with a sprayer bottle of DI water in the other hand.

I use a sponge to spread the iron product. The sponge I use is the one that came with P21S TAW. When it's starts to dry - I spritz it with DI water - and spread it a bit more. It keeps working and it keeps it from drying out until your ready to rinse.

The AF stuff is really clingy. Almost gel like. But, it takes some effort to rinse off.
 
I found the same thing with AF Iron Out.

Iron X Soap wasn't too bad either. It's nice to knock out two things with one step, but I haven't tested it compared to a dedicated step of Iron X. Not sure which would be better.
 
To the three above; I have accidentally extended dwell/dry time by adding Glycerin to Dub wheel cleaner. I was trying to use it to thicken it up. Didn't really do much for that but does prevent it from drying out as fast. Need to play some more with the percentage once it warms up some. I had added 4oz to it, but think that 1oz might work. At 4oz it was still wet after 2 hrs on paint. Not sure if it would work well with the others but might be worth a try
 
Iron x should have much less tendency to dry out than some others. The drying out is bad so I'd avoid any products which leave white residues before you get around to rinsing.
 
I have Dodo Juice and it works fine. I got Iron X for Christmas but since it's not detailing season here yet haven't had a chance to try it. I did my wife's new Tiguan that sat on a dealers lot for about 9 months and it turned completely purple with the Dodo Juice FD. I then clayed, buffed and put Collinite 845 on it came out great.
 
Thanks for the science side explanation, pipuk. I would think we simply want to see the color change related to the active ingredient reacting with what we are trying to remove. Simple and causative. I certainly don't want anything added to force or yield some visual confirmation...i want the stuff that removes iron to show me where the iron is! It helps to get something simple and visual to see what it's effectiveness is. We have the plastic bag test for claying, the visual removal of scratches on the surface with the right lighting, beading of LSP's (argued about over the years but...) but nothing other than a color change to show we are actually dissolving iron particles. I want that "bleeding" to show me what it's removing and not something thrown in to simulate or force the visual.

Another good point is something on the surface that may block access to the iron. I'm guessing a good wash and clay/nanoskin treatment might remove most "blockers" first but maybe some non "purpled" areas have inaccessable iron underneath.

Both points would serve to answer the op, i.e what is the "one" that's most effective.
 
PiPUK said:
Iron x should have much less tendency to dry out than some others. The drying out is bad so I'd avoid any products which leave white residues before you get around to rinsing.
Click to expand...


Maybe you can explain it to me, because this is something I never understand. People always say when a product dries on paint - it's too late; - like that is the point when damage can occur.

But, I was always under the impression (could be wrong), that once the liquid carrier dries with most products; the chemical reactions / processes basically stop.

So, why is drying so bad if it's a sign of the reaction not proceeding any further???
 
swanicyouth said:
Maybe you can explain it to me, because this is something I never understand. People always say when a product dries on paint - it's too late; - like that is the point when damage can occur.

But, I was always under the impression (could be wrong), that once the liquid carrier dries with most products; the chemical reactions / processes basically stop.

So, why is drying so bad if it's a sign of the reaction not proceeding any further???
Click to expand...

The active ingredient is non volatile. As the water evaporates, the amount of active stays the same and thus the concentration increases. That increase in concentration is the risk. Many things would be non hazardous at a couple of percent, but dry them out and they will can get to high concentration which could render the rather corrosive.

Avoiding drying out is considered so common sense in the chemical industry that is almost doesn't get mentioned (rather like warnings not to drink products).
 
Hey guys so i just started started hearing about using iron x for paint.(I know late to the boat) but anyways I was wondering is this for more industrial heavy cities? I've always clayed before but was wondering if I could benefit from using iron x in a non industrial heavy city on a cars paint.
 
Breese147 said:
Hey guys so i just started started hearing about using iron x for paint.(I know late to the boat) but anyways I was wondering is this for more industrial heavy cities? I've always clayed before but was wondering if I could benefit from using iron x in a non industrial heavy city on a cars paint.
Click to expand...

Any car will benefit from using an iron removal product. I did a full detail of my wife's white Ford Edge in November, including iron x, clay, DP Paint Coating and Sonax PNS. I will be using iron x again on the vehicle soon, as it has visible iron deposits on some of the paint surfaces, especially the rear hatch and bumper areas.

We do not live in an industrial heavy area, and the vehicle is garage kept.
 
Breese147 said:
Hey guys so i just started started hearing about using iron x for paint.(I know late to the boat) but anyways I was wondering is this for more industrial heavy cities? I've always clayed before but was wondering if I could benefit from using iron x in a non industrial heavy city on a cars paint.
Click to expand...

I would imagine that there is some level of iron and other mineral contaminants in every city and town. The only way to know for sure if you can benefit from IronX is to just try it and see what level of contamination you are dealing with. That's the thought process I'm following...once the temps actually get AND STAY above freezing!
 
Dan K said:
Any car will benefit from using an iron removal product. I did a full detail of my wife's white Ford Edge in November, including iron x, clay, DP Paint Coating and Sonax PNS. I will be using iron x again on the vehicle soon, as it has visible iron deposits on some of the paint surfaces, especially the rear hatch and bumper areas.



We do not live in an industrial heavy area, and the vehicle is garage kept.
Click to expand...



Supergus1 said:
I would imagine that there is some level of iron and other mineral contaminants in every city and town. The only way to know for sure if you can benefit from IronX is to just try it and see what level of contamination you are dealing with. That's the thought process I'm following...once the temps actually get AND STAY above freezing!
Click to expand...



Ok thanks for the help! I will definitely be adding it to my arsenal! I'm guessing you can use it on windows and tires too? Any deals where I can pick it up for a good price?
 
Breese147 said:
Ok thanks for the help! I will definitely be adding it to my arsenal! I'm guessing you can use it on windows and tires too? Any deals where I can pick it up for a good price?
Click to expand...

You can use it on paint, glass, and wheels. Everyone basically sells it for the same price. Best thing to do would be to wait for a percentage discount sale, I'm sure another one will come up shortly. I recommend buying the at least the 32 oz size as it is more cost effective.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top