Iron x a must or not?

DjbuddyPL

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I see a lot of people using it. All my detail is done by hand. I do have clay bar and lubricant but iron x seems like a faster way. What do you guys think? Will it so same thing as cleaner waxes and prep lotions? Or is it something in a league of its own? It's all for a brand new white car?


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All the types of products you listed perform different tasks. Clay (or a clay alternative) is to remove bonded contaminants where as a product like IronX is to remove chemical contaminants. IronX does not replace clay or visa-versa. A cleaner wax (also called an all-in-one or AIO) is for light polishing and applying some sort of protection to the paint in one step. An AIO will not (effectively) remove bonded or chemical contaminants. That's a very basic summary of those and I know someone will chime in with more comprehensive and detailed links. For some reason, my search isn't working, so I can't add them myself.

With your other question, is IronX a must, it's a little more complicated and depends on several factors and those factors can be different depending on the detailer's point of view. In general, I would say chemical decontamination is no where near as important as removing bonded contaminants. That being said, I do take the time (and money, because it is relatively not cheap) to do a chemical decontamination every 12-18 months.
 
I see a lot of people using it. All my detail is done by hand. I do have clay bar and lubricant but iron x seems like a faster way. What do you guys think? Will it so same thing as cleaner waxes and prep lotions? Or is it something in a league of its own? It's all for a brand new white car?

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IMO it's a highly recommended effort. Makes claying a lot easier and cleaner and as both are needed. Clay is going to pull off the surface, Iron X will help get what's embedded in the clear coat. Those embedded pieces can rust and eventually break through under the clear/paint layer thus why I personally think it's best to use both. You want as much contaminants as possible out of and off your clear coat before you polish. Your pads will stay cleaner and work better. Worth the few bucks in product.
 
It's a very beneficial step to making a job done .
 
If you're looking for a 2-in-1 product, try DoDo Juice Supernatural Ferro Lube......I just tried some (won it in a giveaway on Autopia), and it worked great as a lube....very smooth. Only down side was the smell, which I think is pretty typical of products that break down iron.
 
On my own cars usually after every winter I use ironX (spray on the entire car) sometimes even agitating it a bit by hand with gloves or with a mitt. Then I foam it with CG citrus red/clean slate. They clay either traditionally or with my nanoskin pads. Then wipe down with an IPA or been going with another car pro product eraser and typically use it during the polishing process for clean wipe up.

I mu can assure you after this process there isn't a trace of decontamination,sealant or wax of any kind lol
 
All the types of products you listed perform different tasks. Clay (or a clay alternative) is to remove bonded contaminants where as a product like IronX is to remove chemical contaminants. IronX does not replace clay or visa-versa. IronX is a chemical-based product that eliminates physical contaminates bonded to the surface.

A cleaner wax (also called an all-in-one or AIO) is for light polishing and applying some sort of protection to the paint in one step. The polishing ability of a cleaner wax is very, very mild. An AIO will have more polishing ability than a cleaner wax and can do some minor correction.

An AIO will not (effectively) remove bonded or chemical contaminants. That's a very basic summary of those and I know someone will chime in with more comprehensive and detailed links. For some reason, my search isn't working, so I can't add them myself. Since an AIO has polishing ability it can remove bonded contaminates. However, at the risk of instilling swirls if you don't clay

With your other question, is IronX a must, it's a little more complicated and depends on several factors and those factors can be different depending on the detailer's point of view. In general, I would say chemical decontamination is no where near as important as removing bonded contaminants. That being said, I do take the time (and money, because it is relatively not cheap) to do a chemical decontamination every 12-18 months. If you feel better after decon, then the 12-18 month cycle you have is valuable. What I have found is that if you have a properly maintained vehicle you can pass on the decon step; especially if you don't see much color-change on the vehicle du

My $0.02.. Enjoy.
 
Not only do I think it is needed, I LOVE to watch it work, lol!
 
Mr DjbuddyPL,


'In My Opinion' for a full correction its a must.

The way I see it is after all the work done to decontaminate the paint system and seal it up if there are any errant iron particles embedded below the paint surface then they will continue to oxidize except now they will be oxidizing under all the hard work done and whichever LSP applied.

Using Iron-x after a claying will dissolve any iron contamination the clay doesn't reach.

Iron-X doesn't replace any steps, but rather performs a function other steps do not accomplish.


Steve
 
I've used the sonax version on 3 vehicles and saw no color change. I'm guessing the necessity of that step depends on your area, but I could be wrong.
 
I was skeptical, but now I consider Iron-X a "must have." It noticeably makes claying easier (I Iron-X first, then clay) and makes a difference on wheels.
 
I think we all agree it is a must for those of us who want to insure a thorough effort in doing all we can for the paint. Between roguegeek's first sentence (and more) and mwoolfso adding some more clarification, i totally agree. My take is that it is an essential part of the process if you want to keep the vehicle for any length of time and insure the paint has a longer life. And not just once but as others have mentioned, recurring treatments to keep metallic bits at bay.
 
I think Iron-x is a must have whether you're a professional detailer or just an enthusiast.
 
I just used Iron X for the first time on a white Audi Q5 and I'm kicking myself for not trying it sooner. Worked great on the paint as well as the wheels. 100% buying more for the next job.
 
Just to chime in...


I have an article on this topic. I equate Iron X to car insurance. I'd suggest clicking the link and giving it a read and if you have any questions post them to my article thread.


What is Iron X and why should I use it?


watermark.php




:cheers:
 
I always thought it was common practice to ironX then clay any new vehicle I bought.
 
Holy cow Mike! I can't believe how red that thing got!!!!!! :wow:


If you click the link and read the article it states the owner parked the car in the same place for years and one side of the car was continually hit by a sprinkler and their water had a lot of minerals in it.


Look at the glass windows.... even they are bleeding red...



:cheers:
 
Would it be better to first clay the car, and then Iron X it?
I was just wondering if claying it first helped open up the pores in the clear coat, so that the Iron X can dissolve any contaminants deep in the paint(i.e. make the iron x application more effective).
 
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