Iron X Question

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mugu07taco

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Hello,

I would like to thank Mike and everyone else that makes this site and forum possible. I have had my vehicle detailed but plan to start detailing it myself. I have been lurking for a while and have read lots of great things.

I have noticed after having my vehicle detailed that their still is above surface bonded contaminants after they are done. The vehicle was clayed but their still remains a few above surface bonded contaminants spots. After reading some posts by Cobalt about Iron X I have not seen any replies to his post by any AG staff. I just wondered what their opinion/review of the product is. Is this a product AG would ever use or stock on the selves?

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 
mugu07taco said:
After reading some posts by Cobalt about Iron X I have not seen any replies to his post by any AG staff. I just wondered what their opinion/review of the product is. Is this a product AG would ever use or stock on the selves?

Thanks in advance,

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

I have not used Iron X by Macclean, and had a hard time finding information on their website about this product. I could find lots of places online that sell it. Here's a little of what I found out,

  • Backwashing Water Filters and Treatment Chemicals
  • Treatment Chemicals
  • IRON-X All-Purpose Rust Remover
  • Restores capacity to iron-fouled softeners.
  • Removes stains from white clothing, bathroom fixtures, shower stalls, even house siding and concrete.
  • Iron X Rust Remover, Contains Sodium Hydrosulfite And Sodium Bisulfate, Used With Macclean NUR1001G
217590_300.jpg


It does not read like it was ever formulated or intended for use on automotive paints but that doesn't mean it won't work on automotive paints. Any risk involved would be on the user's end.

We do carry the Finish Kare Decontamination System and it is formulated and intended for use on automotive paints.

How To - Paint Contamination Removal System


:)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Perhaps the OP meant to refer to Iron CUT?
Click to expand...

malachi0420 said:
Aquartz Iron X, formerly known as "Iron Cut".
Click to expand...


"Words mean things... just ask any lawyer" -Mike Phillips


Just goes to show how important it is to use the right words and enough words on a forum when discussing a product so those in the discussion will know the right product being discussed.

With the right name for the product I did a search and it almost looks like the Sonax Wheel Cleaner in action...

Iron X


We don't currently stock or offer this product so to the OP, maybe check the link I provided and after gathering your information move forward on a "Go/No Go" decision to use it on your car's paint.

:)
 
Thank you very much for the quick reply. So Finish Kare Decontamination System is what AG uses for those tough to clay above surface bonded contaminants? Could you just use the FK on those stubborn spots or do you have to clean the entire vehicle?

Maybe a tutorial/video on how AG handles those hard to get rid of above surface bonded contaminants?

Thank you so much for your time and wisdom.

Thanks again,
Dave
 
mugu07taco said:
Thank you very much for the quick reply. So Finish Kare Decontamination System is what AG uses for those tough to clay above surface bonded contaminants?
Click to expand...

I've never used this product personally but many of our member have...

The problem with iron particles in the paint is removing them completely, not just shaving the tops of them off...

It's a tough problem and there is no quick, easy and simple solution for 100% correction.

From the article I posted the link to...


The Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System was developed as a method of removing paint contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying. If you are familiar with detail clay, you know it is capable of removing above surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint. The Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System is designed to remove what lies below the paint surface.


Another option would be to try a more aggressive clay and follow this with compounding and polishing the paint.

This might get the job done to your satisfaction but you won't know until you try...

mugu07taco said:
I have noticed after having my vehicle detailed that their still is above surface bonded contaminants after they are done. The vehicle was clayed but their still remains a few above surface bonded contaminants spots.
Click to expand...

Could be the person doing the work didn't have their heart in their work at the time. Since you care more about your car's appearance than most people you can pay, claying it yourself might actually be the answer.


The Mindset of a Professional Detailer


The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


Do you have an electric polisher or are you working by hand?


:)
 
Thank you again for another quick reply. I greatly appreciate your time and knowledge.

No, I do not have an electric polisher and plan to start by working by hand. Especially after reading your mindset of a professional detailer. I would hate myself if I ruined the paint by being over zealous/lack of experience with an electric polisher and detailing in general.

I will try what you suggest about using a more aggressive clay bar first. After reading others posts about Finish Kare Decontamination System I will try and limit my use of chemicals and go with the least aggressive method first. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks again,
Dave
 
I have used Iron Cut, works great (just watch out for the smell). IC is before clay, btw.
 
I apologize for not being more specific in my post. I did mean the Aquartz Iron X, thank you malachi0420. I apologize Mike for sending you on the wild goose chase on the internet.

Thanks AeroCleanse.
 
Keep us updated... :xyxthumbs:

As far as the clay goes...

It could be just good job of claying with a fine or medium grade by someone that really cares and is paying attention will get the job done.

Like I said, if the employee at the shop that's been taking care of your car didn't put their heart into their work as far as quality goes then you could still have above surface bonded contaminants left on the surface.

Just don't want to see you jump to an aggressive clay needlessly and the only way to find out is to do some testing.


Machine polishing is really safe with the types of polishers available today... the DA polishers are really safe to use and learn to master. Plus, a machine polished finish is always going to look glossier than a hand polished finish for most people because working on clear coats is hard to start with and harder by hand.


:)
 
Thanks again Mike! I will definitely keep you posted. I promise I will start with a fine clay first and then go from their. I will look into getting a DA polisher. I am all about making life easier (using mechanical devices) and want our (wife's and mine) vehicles to look their best.

I have two real trouble spots that I am trying to get Toyota to take care of since I feel they started under the paint (perforation). The dealer said it was industrial fallout gone really bad. Who knows, maybe I am right or maybe I am wrong but I look at other 2007 vehicles that are maintained and don't see problems like the two spots I have. I got Toyota Company involved since the dealer gave me such a hard time (took 1 1/2 months to finally get vehicle looked at). Who knows, worth a shot. Will probably end up having to sand and paint area.
 
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