Hi All,
Bought a new white Nissan SL 2013 ultima a month ago. Freaked out when I had a bad case of rail dust from the local train track.
I bought some Iron X and applied it and it worked wonders!
It is an amazing product.
Cube
I agree. Iron X is like car insurance. You never actually want to need it. You want to use it to find out if you do have iron contamination and if you do, the it will be removed. But it's far better for the paint to use it and find out you didn't need it.
While this car was not what I would call heavily contaminated, it definitely had some iron contamination taking place in the paint and for the type of car it is and the type of finish it deserves, then spraying the car down with Iron X was a a
necessary first step.
Tip for Iron X users - Rinse well to avoid molding drip
Before.... the end results start with the first step...
After....
The Little Yeller Feller - 2000 Lotus Esprit V8
Thanks for the responses.. so it is unavoidable and normal?
Depends on what's in the air surrounding your car or what was in the air surrounding the car from the time it left the manufacturing plant and arrived to your garage.
I guess I should clay, use iron x and then wax, seal.
Almost completely backwards.
You Iron X first to dissolve and remove any iron particle BEFORE you do ANY mechanical decontamination steps like claying.
The reason why is because IF there are iron particles in the paint and you clay or for example use a Nanoskin Autoscrub product on the paint, if one of these types of tools were to successfully dislodge an iron particle out of the paint and then you rubbed it all over the paint you would put scratches into the paint needlessly.
Instead, the correct procedure would be to chemically decontaminate the paint, that is use Iron X or an Iron X type product.
The after you finish washing and rinsing the car, then move on to some type of mechanical decontamination.
You want to do both but you want to do the in the correct order.
Sounds like something I will have to deal with on a regular basis?
thank you
Maybe.
After you wash and dry your car, simply do the baggie test to check for above surface contaminants. If you feel bumps in the paint then you can test for iron contamination using Iron X. IF you get the bleeding effect in one small area, (your test), chances are you need to Iron X the entire car and then follow with claying or some other form of mechanical decontamination.
How often and to what extent the paint on your car become contaminated depends on what's in the air where you park your car.
The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants
FWIW this is all covered in the second edition of my how-to book in all its forms.
