Iron X with every detail or no??

DaveT435

DaveT435

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I've read so many articles and watched so many video about refinishing paint in the last few weeks. I don't remember Iron X being mentioned once. Reading about the product and a few posts on here people seem to be pleased with the product. My question is...should it be used before every detail? Is there something to look for to know if you need to use it?? My plans right now are to start using it every time...Feed back please
 
I love the stuff and wanted to use it all of the time but I find when I keep my cars well maintained it usually isn't needed (i.e. white car no purple streaks). so i save it for friends cars and maybe once a year on mine.

you can always try it on a small spot you know needs t be clayed and see if you get a reaction. then you can determine how to proceed.
 
Good point...I forgot about it turning color. Thanks
 
I'm a fan of it, in fact I came to work early to wash a car today and for the wheel washing process I used Iron-X on the wheel.

I skipped using it on the paint because I washed this car within the last 5 weeks and used Iron-X on the paint then, and 2/3 of the paint is brand new.

Have some pictures and a tip from BobbyG incorporated to share...


Hang tight...


:)
 
If you can find the post it would be great. Honestly you saying that your a big fan is enough for me to start using it Mike. I did find one more thread on the subject of spray or paste...looks like the paste wins.
 
I've got my first bottle of Iron-X on the way and I'm so pumped to get it.
 
Here you go, hot of the pixel press...


How to wash your car KISS style!





These are the factory clear coated rims, likely very rare and hard to find. For this reason I'm going to use a 8" Boars Hair Wheel Brush to ensure I don't scratch the clear coat finish. The green tire brush is for the tires and the wheel wells.

Gwash011.jpg





Wheels and tires are agitated after spraying with the Detailer's Wheel Cleaner, which is non-acid and safe for both wheels and tires. After agitating the rims and tires, rinse well with water.

Gwash012.jpg




Tip from BobbyG
A while back there was a discussion on the best way to use Iron X there were three camps...

Camp 1 - Spray Iron X directly onto dry, dirty wheel.
Camp 2 - Wash wheel and tire, then rinse then spray Iron X onto clean, rinsed wheel.
Camp 3 - Wash wheel and tire, then rinse, then DRY off water and then spray on Iron X
​
I was in Camp 2 because I believed that by removing the road grime, (an oily coating), and the brake dust first, you enable the Iron X to do it's job more effectively to get the most bang for your buck.

The people in Camp 1 thought the Iron X was too costly to allow to possibly drip off the wheel with the excess water after washing and rinsing first.

Camp 3
BobbyG's technique was to simply wash the wheel and tire first, thus removing the oily road grime and brake dust but then pat the wheel dry using a clean utility towel so there would be no excess water to flush the freshly sprayed-on Iron X off the wheel and onto the ground where it's not doing anything for you.

I agree with BobbyG and wanted to share his tip and give him credit for an incredibly easy tweak to my technique so I can get the best performance out of Iron X and get the most bang for your Iron X bucks...


Gwash013.jpg




Now spray the Iron X onto the wheel to remove any Iron Particles (if any).

Gwash014.jpg



Everyone wants to see the red bleeding effect from the Iron particles being dissolved and in the process turning the water red. Actually, seeing no red water bleeding off the wheel is a good sign because it means your wheels are not contaminated.

If the wheels are contaminated and they have a clear layer of paint on them, this would mean iron particles had embedded onto and into the clear layer of paint causing corrosion to some degree.

No color, no corrosion = longer lasting finish on the wheel.


Gwash015.jpg



Continue washing and rinsing the wheels and tires until all four wheels and tires are washed clean and rinsed free from any residual chemicals and dirt.

Gwash016.jpg



Gwash024.jpg




:)
 
When you say "every detail" what do you mean:
- on your personal vehicles? If you mean every time you take care of them (weekly): for sure not. If you live in a area that has heavy industrial fallout maybe two or three times a year on the bodywork (only once if this is not the case) and on the wheels when something "nasty" does not get out with the usual soap or mild wheel cleaner process (this "nasty" stuff has to be of ferrous nature for IronX to work. Also be aware that IronX can attack some wheel parts);
- on your clients vehicles? You have to assess the condition of the bodywork and wheels but I would say that if it is a first timer it's "yes" on both accounts. If you are doing a maintenance detail on a vehicle that you already know, it's for you to judge if it is necessary (and if the client is paying for it).
 
Iron X- brand new cars??

What's your experience with brand new vehicles--- need Iron-X, two examples below?

1. New 2012 Honda Accord. Built in US (of course) so no long voyage here. Fresh arrival
at Honda dealer so only at dealer one day (not months on lot).
Typically need Iron-X on paint before clay?

2. New 2012 Mercedes E class so LONG voyage over here but in/out when it hits
the dealer.
Typically need Iron-X on paint before clay??

3. Wheel protection after Iron-X???
Any way to properly apply Opti Coat to ENTIRE wheel, face and barrel, without removing
the wheels???

Thanks
 
Thanks for all the feed back. I was more referring to every detail as a full detail. Being right in the middle of Dallas and Fort Worth we do have a fair amount of fallout. I'm going to use it...worse case scenario I find out that I don't really need to use it.
 
To MinnBobber:

Even if a car has not been on a dealer lot long, the process of staging in the manufacturers lot and delivery(trucking or rail) will leave lots of deposits. Basically if you have not decontaminated yourself then do it.

As far as wheels go, yes and no. It really depends on wheel size and style and your hands. I personally remove them if opti coating(I've only opti coated wheels on my personal cars). I clean them completley in and out(faces and barrels) and clay them before the coating. Not many styles of wheels that you can get to the barrels adequately without removing them unless you can get the car up in the air IMO.
 
bobble said:
To MinnBobber:

Even if a car has not been on a dealer lot long, the process of staging in the manufacturers lot and delivery(trucking or rail) will leave lots of deposits. Basically if you have not decontaminated yourself then do it.

As far as wheels go, yes and no. It really depends on wheel size and style and your hands. I personally remove them if opti coating(I've only opti coated wheels on my personal cars). I clean them completley in and out(faces and barrels) and clay them before the coating. Not many styles of wheels that you can get to the barrels adequately without removing them unless you can get the car up in the air IMO.
Click to expand...

Thanks bobble,
I was hoping a domestic Honda , built less than 4 weeks ago, would be ok with wash, clay, polish, seal BUT to guarantee a clean base, sounds like Iron-X is needed. I'm thinking especially so if Opti-Coat is applied as it's permanent and you want the clearcoat perfect.

Trying to decide if sealing more than the wheel faces is worth the time and effort??? Having Opti-Coat on entire wheel would sure make cleaning the wheels easy.
 
MinnBobber said:
What's your experience with brand new vehicles--- need Iron-X, two examples below?

1. New 2012 Honda Accord. Built in US (of course) so no long voyage here. Fresh arrival
at Honda dealer so only at dealer one day (not months on lot).
Typically need Iron-X on paint before clay?

2. New 2012 Mercedes E class so LONG voyage over here but in/out when it hits
the dealer.
Typically need Iron-X on paint before clay??

3. Wheel protection after Iron-X???
Any way to properly apply Opti Coat to ENTIRE wheel, face and barrel, without removing
the wheels???

Thanks
Click to expand...
Hi
brand new cars are completely not fresh, maybe only look like. lol
look at this video, brand new car came in for decon and protection, notice where it had the sticker film to protect the bonnet there were no iron dots :

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N1X-gO-eAw&feature=g-user-u]IronX on a brand new Citroen DS3 - YouTube[/video]

better to seal ofcourse wheels or paint after ironx or any work you do.
for wheels you have great deal now on Cquartz DLUX , you will basically layer "glass" on your wheel surface.

good luck.
 
No, I would not use it on every detail or every time I washed the car. After the first time I used IronX and got good visual results (red dripping off the car), I went to go an use it again about 3 months later and NOTHING came off the car that time. Keep in mind, my car is garaged on the weekdays and out on the weekends, so I dont get a ton of contamination.

On my DD that sits outside, I would use it 2 times a year max. Or once a year before a full paint correction.
 
hey guys, i am planning to decontaminate my vehicle as well. Do you recommend iron x followed by clay? also here in this article: CQuartz Iron Cut | Auto Obsessed. this guy mentions to also use kleenzit. so do i need to use kleenzit also? are there any draw backs to iron x?
 
Kleenzit is an APC, good idea to detar vehicle.

Tardis and the combo Trixx are good.
 
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